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Found 177 results

  1. So I am not sure if anyone is going to be able to help here but ill give it a go: I use a remote trigger for my Canon EOS 800D and I opened it up to find a motherboard (I think) and the wire for the AUX (3.5mm Headphone jack) to plug into the camera. How does they do they get the code onto the motherboard and is there any way I would be able to see the code on the motherboard? I would also like to view the code on the motherboard to code my own similar device. My thinking is that if I was to code a similar program and run it off a phone or tablet with a proper User Interface it would be a fun project to try and do. I have tried looking this up however it seems this isn't a very common topic lol. Below are the images of the motherboard if it helps in any way?
  2. Disclaimer: (i don’t consider myself as a master of photography or the technology behind it please do your own research in advance of buying a new camera or other types of gear, it’s impossible for me to cover everything and i'm not taking any responsibility for any choices based on this article. The examples are as of may 2020) A guide to Digital Photography and Cameras I have owned a few cameras over the years. Canon 1Dx, 5D mark ii and now own Canon 5Ds, M50, gopro and lots of dji film drones (i will make a separate thread with those if people want it), all that with a nice supply of lenses (i can also make separate guide to those). So it's quite obvious that i have very little experience with other camera brands like Nikon or Sony. I base my recommendations in this topic on my own research and experience with cameras. I will from the start recommend one very simple and quick step, and that is to do your own research in advance of buying cameras and a lot of it. This post is for people to make their own informed decisions, i’m not taking any responsibility for any choices made by others. I would also like to come with a classic saying which is “it’s not the camera that’s important, but the person behind it” I think this is very true and gear isn’t everything. This video by Peter Mckinnon an absolutely great youtuber really shows it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8LOoQxSi8M&t=318s Mirrorless vs DSLR Pros: Right now mirror less cameras are very tempting, and for good reason, they are generally speaking lighter. They also have electronic viewfinders which i see as a major plus especially as a beginner, since you can see the exposure. The flange distance (the distance between lens and sensor) is smaller since there is no mirror between lens and sensor, this means you can adapt older lenses to the mirror less camera like the canon ef to rf adapter or ef to Sony-e. So now you have several series of lenses you can use on your cameras. (Nikon is a bit special since auto focus won’t work on all of their old lenses with their Nikon-f to ftz adapter because some of them requires an internal AF motor) you can’t adapt the other way round so you can’t adapt a canon rf lens to a canon ef mounted camera because of the flange distance it was designed to use. This means that you have the best of both worlds, there are also other pros to shorter flange distance that are very technical and that i won’t dive into in this post. Cons: But the downsides are also major, like awful battery performance in some cases 1/5 of a dslr equivalent and slow (but more precise so better for very low aperture lenses) auto focus, that's just how contrast auto focus is right now, this can be a pro or a con, but generally considered a con since phase detect auto focus on dslr’s has become very precise over the past years. While that is said some older dslr’s also use contrast auto focus so a good amount of research is recommended in advance. Conclusion: I would only buy mirror less personally if i had the funds or didn’t need the fast auto focus or long lasting battery, and also because of the electronic viewfinder which is a fantastic tool as a beginner. ISO: Very simply explained ISO is essentially a setting that can brighten up your photo. The higher the value the more sensitive your sensor becomes to light. Therefore it gets more bright. But this comes with a catch the higher the ISO value the more noise there is in the picture (the less quality there is), so you should always have the lowest iso possible with reasonable shutter speeds. If you have you'r ISO set at 100 your picture will get double as bright if you set your ISO to 200 and 4 times as bright if you set it too 400 ISO. I would generally try to have my iso as low as possible while getting the sharpest pictures, it’s hard sometimes getting 1/250s shutter speeds at 100 ISO, and that’s the point where i crank it up. So ISO performance is a crucial part of getting a new camera, generally newer cameras have good ISO performance. Auto focus: Auto focus is a really important part of a camera and can mean the difference between you getting a photo or not. There are many types of auto focus, but a good rule of thumb is that older mirror less cameras have very slow auto focus, older DSLRs are a bit more forgiving in this topic, but auto focus in general is essential since it can even mess up photos that are still. Mirror less cameras use contrast auto focus which moves the focus point back and forth until it finds the right focus point with the most contrast, thus it's more accurate but slower. The main advantage to phase detect is that it's generally considered to be faster than contrast auto focus, but less accurate, so that's the trade off between the two. I would say though that modern phase detect auto focus is very accurate and i have no problem relying on it. Sensor sizes: There is a lot of sensor sizes out there and this is an essential part of choosing your camera. Sensor size determines a lot in your camera and the sensor size also effectively determines the crop factor (How much of the image you can see). There is a lot of disadvantages and advantages to different sensor sizes and i will go through some of them now. If we have two cameras with the same amount of megapixels in the let's say 20. The bigger the sensor is the bigger the pixels on the sensor are. This essentially means that the individual pixels on the big sensor can absorb more light and therefore improve low light performance. The larger pixels also create less noise which boils down to less noise at higher ISO's which means that you can turn your ISO higher up and shoot pictures in darker situations (This is extremely dependent on the camera you buy, but this is just in general). The next part is purely subjective and depends heavily on your use case, the smaller the sensor is, the bigger the crop factor is. You essentially see less of the image, you can compare it to zooming with a lens. so if you have an Canon aps-c sized sensor you can multiply your lens’s focal length by 1.6x (nikon 1.5x) and a micro 4/3 you can multiply it by 2x. Most common sensor sizes: 2/3" (not to be confused with 1/2.3" or 1/3.2") The 2/3" form factor is one typically found in go pro's and in some mobile phones. This is rarely used in camera bodies and generally not a sensor size i would recommend for still shooting, but for video work i will say it's decent and i like the video quality of my gopro hero 6. Micro 4/3" Is a very popular sensor size for video work. I have heard many good things about this sensor size and i will recommend it for video capturing. Like the GH5 from panasonic. I will on the other hand not recommend it for still shooting it is definitely possible, but i would recommend bigger sensor sizes. This sensor type has a 2x crop factor so a 100mm lens will become a 200mm on a 4/3" sensor sized camera. APS-C This sensor size is extremely popular and if you go down to a camera store chance is that the camera body you are looking at, probably has an aps-c sensor. This sensor size is very versatile, but generally aimed towards beginners or people who wants a little more range with their cameras for example if you are a wildlife photographer you can get away with using cheaper telescopic lenses because the crop factor here is on a canon sized sensor 1.6x (nikon 1.5x)so a 100mm lens becomes a 160mm (nikon 150mm) lens. Fullframe/35mm film This is the sensor type is for the enthusiast and pro. It's been the go to choice for professionals for many years. These sensors are used in high end camera bodies and are not beginner sensors. What i mean by that is that full frame amplifies your small mistakes like pictures that are not in focus and sharpness. I will only recommend a somewhat experienced photographer, you can get them as a beginner, i would just recommend going with an aps-c body unless you find a great deal then you are good to go. Full frame sensors has a 1x crop factor so a 100mm lens is a 100mm lens on a full frame camera. Medium Format While this format differentiates in size a person who would buy a digital camera with a medium format sensor, should know more about photography than me (don’t know if that says much). These are only used in cameras that are made for the professionals, that both need the insane amount of megapixels they are capable of, but also the color depth. These are only for professionals and not anything i would ever recommend for a beginner. It's like an amplified full frame sensor it has all the benefits, but also all the cons, and are specialized equipment. It’s crop factor varies because of the varying sizes of medium format sensors. Recommended cameras: I want to preface this by saying no camera is perfect. They all have their pros and cons. It’s also very subjective which camera is good for you. This is my recommendations, and cameras i would personally buy from new at these budget’s, now this is not including lenses or other accessories and i am recommending using a good amount of your budget on lenses and other gear as you will need it, lenses also lose less value over time and you can keep them most of the time when upgrading, they age much slower than camera bodies. I’m recommending cameras for still photography and not video so please keep that in mind. And last but not least as I stated in the start. It's not the camera that's important it's the person behind it. All cameras on this list are able to produce great images the more expensive ones just tend to have that tad extra of everything and features that pros like. These are also recommendations for you to research further on to make your own informed decision. 500 dollar: Canon M50 This is a very entry level mirror less camera, but this camera is mirror less which means that you get tack sharp focus and you can see the exposure in the viewfinder, two major plusses for a beginning photographer. This camera has its downsides too though, it uses the ef-m lens mount so the native lens selection is very limited, but you can always adapt it. Autofocus is also slow, so if you like taking pictures of fast moving objects dslr or high end mirror less is the way to go. Upgrade ability is also limited on this camera while you can adapt canon's ef lenses to it you can’t keep your old ef-m lenses when upgrading to lets sat an 80D. I recommend getting it with the 15-45 kit lens since it costs a very tiny amount more than without a lens. It’s very small and light and a camera i own myself. And great value for money. 600 dollar: Nikon D5600 The Nikon D5600 is a great value for money camera, and produce great images, just like all the cameras on this list. It has great iso performance for this amount of money and is really light and small which is a good thing. It also doesn't have an anti aliasing filter which is great for sharp images, but can cause the moire effect (search it up on google). It's a beginners camera, but you can still take great pictures with it. I think this is more than what canon has to offer at this exact price point. 750 dollar: Canon T8i/850D This is a consumer camera that’s brand new as of may 2020. You will get great value out of this camera and great auto focus, with 45-point cross-type AF points and canon's dual pixel AF system. So this camera is great for both live view and normal photography. It also comes with a flip out screen which i have missed many times on my pro bodies when shooting very low. This is your “average” camera it has the relevant features you need and not a camera you need to sell again if you get hooked on the hobby, great choice in my opinion. 850 dollar: Nikon Z50 I have heard a lot of good stuff about this camera and the specs tell me that it is for good reason. this is an aps-c mirror less camera that can take up to 11 pictures a second but that's not the only part. It has a pro body and is made of magnesium alloy like the other pro bodies have been for years. It's like a mirrorless D500 which was one of Nikons most popular professional dslr's before hand. And the nikon D500 was compared to the D850 in many ways which all traces back to this being a great camera. It's also weather sealed which is a plus if you don't like dust in your gear, i generally don't recommend shooting pictures in rain since your equipment will get wet and damp, which can lead to haze and fungi in lenses and a lot of other bad things. I would consider this a really good beginner choice since it has an aps-c sensor and that it's mirrorless so light weight and the fact that you can see the exposure in the viewfinder. 900 dollar: Sony A7 II If you really like full frame camera and really want one right now the Sony A7 II is an absolute bargain. At 900 Dollars it's hard to go wrong. Can easily adapt canon lenses to it while they work great. It also has in body image stabilization which is a major plus. This can mean the difference between sharp and not sharp pictures. This is such a great feature to have and it usually works better than the image stabilization inside of lenses. And not only that it takes great pictures. Though some don't like the colors that Sony cameras produce, i do. The pictures that come out of an A7 II look a bit warm, but i like it. And it has great ISO performance as most sony A7's and is generally a fantastic camera. You can't go wrong with 900 dollars at least. I would also recommend to get a canon adapter to it since Sony lenses tend to be quite expensive and the used market has only just opened up, so prices are quite tough. 1000 dollar: EOS RP Now we are getting into the semi pro bodies. This camera is essentially a mirror less canon 6D mark II, it is cheaper though and comes with all the pros of a mirror less camera. I would buy this camera instead since it can use both rf and ef lenses so best of both worlds. It has a full frame sensor and 26 megapixels not a camera that is going to disappoint you and for 1000 dollars it’s a great camera. This is not a camera i would pick up as a total beginner, but it is possible to do. 1200 dollar: EOS 90D I'm going to preface this and say, this camera is for the person who would like to photograph moving subjects, like a flying bird or a sports event. It can do landscape and all the other things, but it has an aps-c sensor so the 1.6x crop make it hard to take everything into the motive which you sometimes want as a landscape photographer. But other than that, this is an absolutely great camera it has 33 megapixels, brand new sensor, 10 fps shooting with auto focus and lots of other features. This camera is also great at sports shooting since you can come so much closer because of the crop factor. It’s also great for everyday use. So if you need to photograph fast moving subjects or just want to get a little closer at your subject then get the 90D if not the eos rp would be my recommendation. There are many other great cameras from other manufactures, but i recommend these cameras because i know them to some extend and have done a lot of research. There are many other things to discuss and i invite you to write a recommendation in the thread below. Lenses: Lenses are hard to choose and i will also make my recommendations very shortm on modern lenses, but don’t look at the overall score though that says very little about the lens look at the individual scores instead. I’m recommending lenses that and to the point. There are many things to look out for in a lens and that’s for good reason. I recommend visiting dxomark.com and look at their benchmarks. The things i usually look for the most is sharpness and vignetting, if you buy older lenses, watch out for distortion and chromatic aberration which are less of a problei would personally have interest in keeping for the future. F/#: is the amount of light coming into the lens, the lower the better for example a F/2.8 lens has double the amount of light coming into it that a F/4 so the lower the value the better. IS: stands for image stabilization and is an optical stabilizer within the lens that stabilizes your pictures so you have a higher chance of getting a sharp photo. USM/STM Is the motor type within the lens, the USM stands for Ultrasonic motor, and stm stands for stepper motor. Stepper motors are generally considered quieter while USM motors are considered faster. Canon EF 16-35mm F/4 L IS USM This is an absolutely great wide angle lens, extremely sharp, not to heavy and it has built in image stabilization for low light photography. It’s a very solid lens and is even being compared to it’s bigger brother the 16-35mm F/2.8 in many ways in terms of sharpness. And for half the price. Not a lens that will disappoint you, this lens is very stable for wide angle photography. Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM Also called the nifty fifty this 100 dollar lens is an absolute bargain and with that big aperture it can take great pictures in some low light situations, though it doesn’t have any image stabilization. I recommend stopping this lens up to F/2.8 so it gets a bit sharper and rid of all the vignetting and chromatic aberrations. Great lens and absolutely nothing beats it at that price level. The older Mark I and Mark II are also great, but both have some quality issues and the stm is in general the go to choice. I recommend this over the older 50mm f/1.4 which is less sharp than this even stopped down to F/1.8. Canon EF 24-70 F/4 L IS USM Im recommending this lens because it’s a very useful focal range that goes from kinda wide to kinda telephoto and everything in between. It’s also sharp and a great allround lens. The image stabilization is also very useful and makes up for the F/4 aperture. While the F/2.8 version is leap ahead in sharpness and cost 2.5x as much. This is a great lens, but i would personally get a 16-35mm or 70-200mm first since i don’t use this focal range that much and i personally use a 50mm F/1.8 STM as a bridge between my 16-35mm and 70-200mm. Canon EF 70-300mm F/4-F5.6 IS II USM This is one of canons newer lenses and it is cheap for the amount of value you get. It is also fairly sharp and autofocus should be about as fast as it can get. This lens also has a very useful focal range because of the extra reach compared to the 70-200mm that has become a standard zoom range today. Canon EF 70-200mm F/4 IS II USM Extremely sharp and useful lens. This is one of canons classics just in a mark II version. It has a classic focal range and very good image stabilization so you can get sharp photos even in mild low light situations. This is a very good lens and definitely recommended. I plan on getting it soon, but the price is a bit steep at 1300 dollar, but i’ve heard it’s worth every penny. Otherwise alternatives could be the tamron 70-210mm F/4 with image stabilization and an ultrasonic motor at a fraction of the cost. This is a lens for the serious hobbyist or the pro who like lightweight gear. Tamron 70-210mm F/4 VC USD Very useful focal range and fairly sharp. Unlike the canon the price on this lens is a fraction of the cost. But that doesn’t mean that it’s a bad lens it’s sharp and has very effective image stabilization or vibration compensation as tamron calls it. The extra 10 mm also gets you a bit closer to the subject, but nothing major. It’s also fairly lightweight and a great value lens. And both available for nikon and canon. Nikon 50mm F/1.8 AF-S The nifty fifty just for nikon. Great lens, but performs like the canon for double the price. though it has some great features like the see through focus distance meter it's very similar to canons offering. But it's worth the 200 dollars and is a must have in a nikon FX kit. Nikon 200-500mm F/5.6 ED VR AF-S This lens is great for wildlife and sports photography with a focal range that goes up to 500mm and 750mm on an aps-c camera this lens is no joke. It's max aperture of F/5.6 is a bit dark so you will need to shoot in daylight. But otherwise than that this is a great lens. I wish i had this lens for my canon cameras, i was nearly about to shift to Nikon when i saw this lens. You do have to watch out for the weight though it's a very heavy lens. And this lens has nearly zero vignetting which is a huge plus since you won't need to fix it in photoshop or stop the lens down to a lower aperture. Sigma 85mm F/1.4 DG HSM ART This is a lens that i consider buying soon. It is extremely sharp and has a very low aperture. It has little to no distortion and very little vignetting. This makes it an absolutely great lens and if you like shooting portraits this is a dream lens. And you can get it for both Nikon and canon Which is great. Now i could go on and recommend a lot of lenses, but then this post would get very long. I recommend ken rockwell’s website or the digital picture. Both write very useful reviews Ken Rockwell does also make recommendations on his website, all of the lenses listed above is actually recommended on his website except for the Tamron 70-210mm, Sigma 85mm and Nikon 50mm. He also writes his reviews in a way that is easy to understand by a foreigner like me which probably will make it even simpler for you to understand. The digital picture also makes great reviews and i like that you can see sample images from each lens really helps sometimes when choosing a lens to look at the same subject taken with different lenses. If i need to make any additions please write a comment in the thread below. I’m open for critique this is after all my first major post in this forum. And also please make your own informed decisions and not entirely based on this post i'm as stated in the top not taking any responsibility for any choices made based on this post. I’ve also only chosen canon related gear since it’s the brand i'm mostly familiar with, I know that Nikon and Sony makes great cameras too and they might be better for you. My information is also based on a lot of stuff I've read over the years and general experience so i'm not a master at photography, at all!
  3. Afternoon, A very exciting piece of software came out on the 28th April 2020. ¬For more on this visit this link. https://1.shortstack.com/VChq6Z I was wondering if anybody could help me because I have a 50d. Is their a way it can be coded so I can use my camera?? I would be grateful if any one could help, as needed for my work over my not so good webcam.
  4. Hi! I bought a battery grip for my canon 200D/SL2 from B&H (the Vello BG-17). When I plug in the included shutter cable for the secondary trigger button on the grip, my screen goes black. The camera still works tho, the button on the camera aswel as the one on the grip. toughts? thanks!
  5. I wanted to learn more about photography, and know more about the "professional" modes and really properly shoot great photos. Is the Canon EOS 4000D a good camera, does it have attachments that can help it become more... PRO? I already own it, so give me your opinion and some advice.
  6. Hi guys, so a friend of my just sold his 450D and a 18-55mm IS kit lens to me, but the kit lens has a black spot in between the lens, and i'm planning to buy a new lens. I've found the following used lenses: -EF-S 18-55mm f4:5.6 STM(around 40$) -EF 50mm f1.8 II (around 45$) -EF 50mm f1.8 STM (around 65$) So what would be a good replacement? A newer kit lens (18-55mm f4:5.6 STM) or a prime lens (50mm f1.8 II/STM)? Is there any differences between the two 50mm lenses i mentioned above? T4R
  7. Aside from showcasing phones, TVs, sensors, automated driving and other bits of tech, CES also seems to be a hot place for the launch of some new camera equipment. And it seems that the crowd-pleaser is the launch of the EOS-1DX Mark III, Canon's latest entry in the EOS 1-D line of flagship professional-oriented sports camera, aimed at photojournalists, sports and wildlife photographers. EOS-1DX Mark III There are some other big launches as well, notably Nikon's new D780 DSLR, an update to the brilliant-but-aging D750. Nikon D780 Aside from all the big guns, there were some other small announcements, which include but are not limited to; The unveiling of a physical Nikon D6 body but without any other information aside from that. The Nikon Coolpix P950 ultrasuperzoom bridge camera, now with 4K recording, an improved EVF and support for RAW files. The Nikkor Z 70-200 f/2.8S lens launch for $2600 and shipping in February alongside a Nikkor 120-300 F-Mount lens for $9500. Canon confirming that no new EF lenses are in development, with all new lenses being for RF "unless there is demand". Source(s); Opinion time;
  8. Hello, Since about half a year I've been having problems with windows photos (windows 10 built in photo viewer). It changes the exposure of my RAW photos, sometimes it makes it brighter and sometimes darker. It also creates quite a bit of noise, as if I shot at a very high ISO. Does anyone know how this can be fixed? It's pretty annoying to have to open op a photo editor program just to view my photos.
  9. Hey so I’ve been into photography for a while now, I am currently using a canon 200d with a sigma 18-250 f3.5 lens and I was wondering whether it would be better to upgrade to a new body or new lense the options are: canon 5d Mkii with battery grip canon 17-40mm f4 lens my main idea was that I would like to upgrade to the canon 5d because of it being full frame and considering I’m going travelling over Christmas this year the dual battery might be worth it, what would be the best option ?
  10. Hey guys, I recently bought myself a more recent canon DSLR, since I started missing the video option on my old 1000d and i found the 7,8Mp a bit lacking. At first I couldn't open the RAW files from the new device at all, this was easily fixed by downloading a software patch for windows photos. I've run into a problem however, windows photos massively overexposes every RAW photo I view with it. It doesn't edit the photo itself, but it prevents me from looking at them on a later date, since the quality is just terrible. Does anyone know how I can fix this?
  11. Hello there. a new forum member here. Avid watcher of LTT on his YT channel. Anyhow my issue is that my Canon printer won’t recognize my black original Canon cartridge at all. I’ve tried all troubleshooting steps I could find, like cleaning the nozzle, rubbing the contact points with a dry cloth etc. But it won’t just detect it. In the attached picture as you can see, there’s a warning symbol light right above the “B” icon. That light flashes 4 times in quick succession and repeats. After some digging I found out it means it’s not able to detect a cartridge or the cartridge isn’t installed properly. I read somewhere that it requires both color and black cartridges to be installed to work. Can anyone help out?
  12. Hello, I have started exploring photography by utilizing my sister's unused Canon EOS 600D Body + CANON 50mm lens & Sigma 70-300mm macro lens. I am now on a verge of purchasing a wide lens, aiming for the CANON 10-18mm to be exact (for video recording purposes mostly) Is it worth it to buy 2nd hand or buy new one? What would be the pros and cons? Any suggestions? Thank you in advance!
  13. I have a Rode Videomic (non pro). When I plug it into my 7D MkII it works perfectly fine but if I plug it into my PC, my mix board or my Atmos Ninja the volume is unusably low. I'm trying to set up a rig with the Ninja and the Rode but even after jacking the Ninja's audio settings to the max I still only get very faint sound from the mic. I had assumed that the mic had a pre-amp built in since it's powered but maybe not? Even if that's the case why would ONLY my camera have a good enough pre-amp to be able to use it?
  14. Hello everyone, I just uploaded a video to youtube that looked great in editing and export until it was up on youtube. It looks really bad there. I am so confused why... any ideas or tips. I export from premiere pro with max bitrate and video quality. I feel the video on youtube looks grey and grainy. Let mek know your guys opinion. Filmed on canon 80D
  15. Hi people in the LTT forum! I'm hobby photographer who likes to do alot of stuff under low ligth conditions. especially when it comes to shooting the milkyway, i get into some trouble. im shooting with Canon 80D, a solid DSLR but it has a cropped Sensor. i know the lens is very if not more important for doing such things but still, most videos/vlogger/tutorials tell me that cropped sensor just arent as good in low ligt as a Full frame sensor. Especially when bumping up the ISO above 3200, the 80D starts to look kinda crappy. Does anyone have expierence shooting stars or low light in generall with the 6D mark II Does it make sense to sell the 80D to get a 6D mark II, wich according to reviews shouldbe really good in low light conditions.
  16. Hello. So I am considering buying my first camera, for now I am using the Huawei p20 pro which has really nice camera but I want to step it up a notch with a real camera. I have concluded that either the Sony A6000 or Canon EOS M50 is my best option in my prige range. Both are at 5000 NOK with the kit lense. Done my research on the interweb and I have seen that alot of people still recommed the Sony even though it is 4 years old. Was wondering what you guys and girls would recommend for a beginner. The camera is going to be used.on trips and on work etc.. I need to be able to send the pictures to my phone, but as what I understand both of them ha e the option to do that. I am not a vlogger så 4k is useless for me, 1080p is good enough, if i am gonna film it is gonna be timelapses. Soo help please to decide and advice me. Thank you :)
  17. So, I have a Canon rebel sl1 and my CR2 raw files preview in Windows 10 file explorer just fine. However, my friend has a Canon rebel 6ts and her CR2 files do not show up in preview on file explorer. We see the files, but the thumbnails don't appear like mine. We've tried clean install of Windows 10, we've tried different images from different cards from her camera. We think it may have something to do with her camera but we are unsure....help? Ps, yes, we are photographers on Windows and not Mac OS lol ?
  18. Ok, so I found a great deal on eBay for the Canon 24-105 f4 lens brand new for $615 (yes, it's from a legit seller, haha!). I have the Sigma 17-50 f2.8 currently, and I could get $300 dollars for it I'd say (like new condition), effectively bringing the price of the Canon way down. Anyone have an opinion between the two? I know some filmmakers who highly recommend the canon for its focal length, but I'm having trouble making a final decision. I use my lenses for videography/filmmaking mainly and photography here and there. I'm either going this route or I am going to purchase a couple nicer prime lenses for around the $620 price tag. Any help is appreciated!
  19. I recently bought my Canon Vixia hf r600 and a SanDisk Extreme Plus MicroSDHC UHS-I card yet I keep receiving Memory card errors while recording the card claims to have a 90 MB/s write speed. Is something wrong with my Camera? or the card. It should be noted I bought the camera Refurbished directly from the Canon Website. Please help and thank you!
  20. Hey, guys does anyone on this forum have experience with using a Sony a7R III with canon lens, how is the autofocusing and issues? just because I've already invested so much in canon lens and I want 4K without spending 6k + dollars on a 1DX. Thanks
  21. Alright, I'll have to admit that maybe I was a bit cheap and purchased third party batteries for my camera body. I now have several questions about the batteries and my minor concerns. Firstly, is it detrimental to the health to the battery if I charge it even though it is 75% full? Thats because that battery is my only LP-E6N battery I have with the other two being LP-E6 variants. Since I have quite the event to photograph tomorrow, I don't really want to rely on a 3/4 full primary battery as the other two are jokes. Also, are LP-E6 batteries really compatible with the newer generation EOS 80Ds? I've read many forums where people have said that they are but personally the batteries dont even last close to half as long as the N variants. I managed to get 350 images with a (third party) LP-E6, however I am up to 600 with the (genuine) LP-E6N and as mentioned earlier, I've managed to carve through only 25% leaving 75% battery capacity. It seems that other prople have had quite positive experiences with thrid party LP-E6 batteries so I'm trying to determine if the battery or body is at fault. (I used an optically stabilised lens with the LP-E6N, but I used a non IS lens with the third party to try to get them to last)
  22. Hi all, I have been debating what my next lens will be for my Canon EOS M10. I currently own the Canon EF-M 15-45 f/3.5-6.3 and the EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 lenses. My choice comes down to the Canon EF-M 22mm f/2 (205 euros) or Canon EF-M 11-22mm f/4-5.6 (319 euros). I really like the compactness of the 22mm but I am afraid I will regret lossing the zoom. That's the thing I like about the 11-22mm besides the fact that it is relatively wide. However it is not so good in low light situations and I do some astrophotography. (For astrophotography I will buy the SAMYANG 8MM F/2.8 FISHEYE FUJIFILM at some point) I maily use my camera for landscape. My question is: what would you recommend and can you give your own experiences with a fixed lens? Cheers.
  23. Hi guys, I do not have much knowledge on cameras or lenses. I usually loan cameras. However my accountant told me to buy one. I need advice on Lenses to purchase. I need an all purpose videography setup. I shoot small action adverts, cinematics, documentary vloggy things for private clients/Youtubers. Scenes are outside and inside. All over europe. One day I may be set up in a studio, tripod. The following in paris with a stable mount filming a workout video in the streets. Usually loan a 70D/A7S, they come with great lenses that are worth more than my budget, Soft bokeh, focus pulls etc... Which I still need to achieve. My budget is around £1000 don't going over a little. I have narrowed my search down to the Canon 750D. Amazon do kits. Kit 1: Canon 750D with 18-55mm IS STM and EF 50mm 1.8 STM Kit 2: Canon 750D with 18-135mm I was told the 18-135mm is great for photography but shit for videography(camera salesman) don't trust his opinion. I am open to all options. Excuse my ignorance. Thank you in advance. Links to the kits: Kit 1 Kit 2
  24. Just a question. I like to make short flims and am looking for a new camera. I'll spend whatever and buy whatever accessories that I need. I also (sometimes) take photos, photography isn't a main priority, but I'd prefer a camera that's better for videography and okay for photography. 4K is ideal.
  25. I currently have a Nikon D90 (yes, I am aware that it's an old camera) and the Nikkor 18 - 140mm lens with DX and VR. The camera's not that good for video so I wanted to get something like a Canon EOS 60D and since it was good for Brandon it should be good for me too. So my question is: Can I use my Nikkor 18 -140mm lens for the Nikon d90 on a canon eos 60d? By the way, here's a picture of the lens! (It's not the greatest but it;s the only one that shows the name) And just so you know, I'm just getting into this stuff so don't judge me
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