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Used Gigabyte BIOS for years, now installing a X670E Asus Strix, and can't find where to set LLC... Pls help /post a pic

Hey everyone, hope everyone is having a happy May. I booted my PC this evening only to realize the entire wifi panel is gone. The pop up, the control panel and even in network devices. It literally just disappeared. I pinged 172.1.1.1 with administrator and the test came back OK, so I know it isn't a hardware error. I have updated drivers, re-enabled services: nothing. What seems to have happened is my literal network card, in the software, is just... literally gone? Windows failed a rollback and now the restore point is useless. BIOS confirmed the network card was enabled. Disabling and re-enabling it has not yielded any results. I upgraded my tower to 32G ram and 3TB Nvm.e about a week and a half ago. Things worked very well up until today.

Alright. I made the mistake of doing a clone of my son’s SSD to his new M.2. I got a conflict error in Disk Manager and decided I would be smart and change drive letters once I had the M.2 recognized in windows which was where all the problems started. After that we started getting a ton of crashes (screenshots attached) and the machine hasn’t been the same since. Those crashes were on 2 new installs of windows using the old SSD. The M.2 would also sometimes show up in windows under disk management and device driver and sometimes wouldn’t. Now I just want to install windows on this new M.2 (WD Black SN770) and not use the SSD but can’t get past the bios. I’ve read to get the motherboard to recognize the M.2 so you can do a windows install to remove the other drives so I’ve unplugged them and no matter if I do CSM or UEFI the MSI bios fails to see this M.2 drive as you can see in the attached pictures. I need it to be seen here to install windows on it right? I’ve cleared cmos and previously updated bios to a build date of 3/11/24. What am I doing wrong? At this point I just want to install windows on this M.2 but can’t progress past this now. sincerely, a dad who screwed up his sons PC upgrade and the issue is now over my head. Ryzen 5 5600X MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus AMD 6700XT M.2 is WD BLACK SN770

I built my first computer 2 years ago and I have never updated my BIOS of my MSI motherboard. I read that you should not update your motherboard BIOS unless it is recommended by the manufacturer or when you've diagnosed a problem that it will fix. How do I know their is a problem that it will fix if on the manufacturers website it just gives generic and vague descriptions of what it will update, i.e update CPU microcode. But what in the microcode is it updating. Does anyone know how I can tell if the update is important and when it is fluff

Hi, my os- win11, MOBO-Gigabyte B650M DS3H, bios version FA5c, mouse- hyperx pulsefire core wired, So whenever i enter my bios and click any option using my mouse, the mouse freezes though my keyboard still works, but if i plug out and reinsert my mouse in usb port (same port or any other) my mouse work completely fine in bios until i restart my PC and enter windows (after logging in) and then restart my pc again and then if i reenter into bios my muse freezes again when i click something in bios. but if in those steps if i never logging into windows and restart my PC again before logging into windows, my mouse works perfectly fine in bios without freezing. i tried every usb ports ( front panel/back panel/ usb 2/usb 3/ usb 3.2) and same issue. Funny thing is that my keyboard always work in bios though it's wireless. also when my mouse stuck in bios if i restart my pc , my mouse gets unfreeze without needing to unplug it from usb port. I have uninstalled hyperx ngenuity software and still same issue. I've updated my bios from FA4 to FA5c and still same issue. i did go to device manager, uninstall all HID-Compliant Mouse drivers, DC the mouse, restart PC and then reconnect mouse on boot up, but still sdame issue. Plz help. i have tested my same mouse on a different PC and it worked completely fine in the bios of that PC without any freez, it was a Lenovo pc with windows 10. btw i tested with few other mouses and they work completely fine in bios. Also i used to have this same mouse on my old system - gigabyte Z87x-ud3h mobo and windows 10 with hyperx ngenuity software installed, but i never had this issue. Latest update- unistalled hyperx ngenuity software >pressed mouse wheel button and dpi buttons together for 10s to factory reset the mouse> remove the mouse from usb port> restart my pc> reinserted my mouse in usb port and then the mouse worked completely fine in bios without freezing. But then when i reinstalled latest hyperx ngenuity software from Microsoft store the same issue came back. But then if i just unistalled hyperx ngenuity software the issue did not get solved , the issue got solved once i repeated my prior steps in sequence. So i think the issue is with hyperx ngenuity software , but not sure how it can effect the mouse in bios though. But i need hyperx ngenuity software cause i have different mouse profiles for different games. btw, hyperx support asking me to update mouse firmware, but is it safe to do so? Also the firmware link support provided its giving me older version of firmware(version- 1122) than my currently installed firmware(version- 1.1.2.4) which was installed by default when i purchased the mice. should i still install the firmware? firmware update link from support - https://d1z8x2chb1ujcd.cloudfront.net/Firmware_Updates/Mice/Pulsefire_Core/HyperX_PulseFire_Core_Firmware_Update_v1122.zip i tried to flash my mouse firmware using the firmware installer from that link but when i double click the extracted file it's showing this error- "no device found. Please connect your device to get started". so i reinserted my mouse to a different usb port and still same error happening. Now hyperx support saying i cant run the standalone firmware cause i have amd chipset. How do i flash my mouse firmware now?

So unlucky me got a 16GB DDR4 3600Mhz cas 18 Trident Z C-die Ram that can not handle 1.35v(XMP).After days of trying different settings and many posts later I've managed to stabilize them at 1.30v 18-22-22-44. I'm about to upgrade to 32GB ram but im trying to save some money at the same time. My question is if i get an other 16GB (so that i have 4x8GB) and they work like they are supposed to will they have trouble booting with my current settings? (for the faulty ram i already have) or should i grab 2x16GB?

I bought a mining card from china but after installing it and using it for about 2 weeks, drivers started acting up driver crashes or freezing. Been searching up for bios for the card and have found none yet anybody got the same card? please upload

So, windows works just fine but when i enter bios, its all messed up. You may notice in the image that something is missing, it is, and if flickers when i move the mouse Rx5950x aorus x570s 32gb team force nighthawk 3600mhz Rx 6700xt

I've found that oem BIOS-es tend to be much more slim and light in options compared to ones that you would put in a custom Pc. This is normally in place to keep unknowing hands from messing up critical stuff, most often clock multipliers, voltages, etc. as messing up these settings can easily fry your system, thus only the most essential and least destructive settings are left, like a drive password, system date settings, and such. But sometimes you just want more control MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHATEVER YOU'RE DOING! IF YOU CHANGE SETTING TO INCORRECT VALUES YOU COULD DAMAGE YOUR COMPUTER IN UNREPAIRABLE WAYS! If you are not sure what some settings do please look it up on the internet or ask someone more knowing of the topic before making changes. Changing setting will likely not solve your problems, nut break it (more). Please don't blame me if anything wrong happens, I warned you about the dangers of fooling around! This is where unlocking bios options come into play. Sometimes it is quite is and sometimes not. So I've decided to make this topic to help some people get on their ways, and to ask for some help myself. If I have made some mistakes writing this topic, please correct me in the comments, and I will edit the text accordingly. I don't wanna spread misinformation... Easier: secret menus - sometimes manufacturers don't actually disable these options in the BIOS ROM, since it would complicate life for support or repair services. These are usually unlocked by pressing a secret key combination entering or while inside the bios. Different OEMs/manufacturers and BIOS vendors tend to have different combinations, here are the most common ones I've found: Pressing "A" while entering BIOS setting - after pressing your key to enter the BIOS setting (usually F1,F2,F8,F10,F12 or DELETE) immediately press A once. Look around your menus and see if something is unlocked. If you have a laptop with an "Fn" function key toggle try pressing Fn+Tab three times. Check for menus again. I read that it is possible you need to re-enter your BIOS settings before unlocking the menu, so you could also try to enter your setting once, pressing the combination three times, and then re-enter the BIOS settings Other common combinations, usually pressed while under POST to enter the BIOS: Shift+F1/F2/etc. ; Ctrl+Shift+F1/... ; Ctrl+Alt+F1/...; In laptops you could also try Fn+F1/.. or Ctrl+Fn+F1/... I will update the list with OEM/manufacturer specific combinations if they are suggested in the comments. Harder: disabled menus - BIOS Flash - power outage during or flashing compromised/broken BIOS ROMs can lead to your Pc bricked or even worse! Make sure to not flash during thunderstorms, and plug in the power adapter of your laptop / use a UPS for your desktop if you have one. Also make sure that the ROM you're trying to flash is compatible with your motherboard. Having a compromised BIOS can lead to your data stolen or erased, and your PC doing weird things! Flashing non-approved ROMs can also lead to your warranty being voided! Having secret menus is nice but it means that said advanced settings are still accessible to anyone knowing the combination, and that includes non-OEM people. However developers and engineers usually use those settings, to test things out and such, so the most common method is to simply disable the menus in the ROM by flipping a bit or getting customers a non-developer BIOS. Methods usually revolve around saving your current ROM and modifying it or getting a developer-ROM. The difficulty of flashing the BIOS can be very different system to system: Entering BIOS and using the BIOS flash utility Using an application to flash your BIOS while in Windows Getting into safe mode and applying some special settings, then using the application Taking your PC apart and flashing your BIOS chip directly with an SPI flasher device Keep in mind that most manufacturers/OEMs don't allow the flashing of non-signed ROMs directly so it is much more complicated to actually change the BIOS in these cases. I hope this helps some of you. If you have anything to say regarding this topic please feel free to reply.

Hi, I got some issues with my fans speed and it's making me a bit unhappy. I don't know how to correctly configure them in order to get the perfect calibration between performance and noise. I changed my fans because I wanted to get good fans (I got 4x P12 Max from Arctic) but I think that the issue of the automatic calibration in the bios comes from it's maximum speed. I noticed that in the bios, the speed curve is defined on the speed percentage, which isn't that great regarding my fans because they can go up to 3000 rpm. So even at 50%, it's already quite noisy. Here are some pictures of the curves in the bios (and a video of the noise they're making). 20240429_121653.mp4 Thank you all!

My W480 have had issues with the installation of AMD graphics drivers. I have tried two fresh installs of Windows 10, installing in safe mode, installing the GPU driver when the display is not connected to the GPU. I have tried three different versions of drivers for the three different tiers of cards I have. Furthermore, when I enable IOMMU in BIOS, the entire screen will become white, regardless of what GPU I have used (I have tested both RX470s, I have also tested two other Radeon HD 4650s, and even the integrated onboard GPU). All 6 of them causes the BIOS boot screen to become completely white, and the BIOS to boot-loop. There were also a lot of Windows WHEA errors related to IOMMU faults and so on. Also sometimes "above 4G encoding" would hang the entire computer. The memory passed all tests, so thats unlikely the issue. I also re-flashed the BIOS image, which helped improve things (instead of a all-white screen when the logo shows, the logo and the "press del to enter setup" become white boxes and other area remain black.) I have talked to a Gigabyte representative and RMAed it, but Gigabyte says there are no problem at all with the board, which I doubt. The board is very slightly bent (maybe 1/8 off across the entire length of board) What could be wrong? W480 Vision W, i5-10600K (I dont think it has ever been overclocked at all), 2666 DDR4 Vengance.

Hi there, I recently made the very stupid mistake of flashing the wrong bios on my 3070 (gigabyte 3070 Gaming OC rev 1.0, accidentally flashed the 3070TI bios). ever since the card was essentially dead. it is not identified by the BIOS and does not show any signs of life (fans at 100% all the time). I purchased the following device in a last dich attempt to save my card: USB Programmer Module Flash BIOS Clip CH341A 5V-3.3V Drive IC Electronic Kit | eBay i made several attempts to flash the new bios on the chip with no success so far. does anyone have experience using such a device and came across issues or possible was able to resolve a bad flash? Thanks a lot!

I have 2021 Legion 5. I but on Bios password (don't ask why) XD, And now i have forgotten it. Is there ANY any way to reset the password? i just don't wanna buy new motherboard. Cmos resets etc are not working.

Like stated I left my computer on while cooking lunch when the power went out. I thought nothing of it since it happened before but when the power came back on my pc was stuck on the ASUS boot screen and Del or F2 didn't do anything. I thought my bios was corrupted so I downloaded a new bios version but it still persisted. After trying everything I started removing drives when it started working then added drives back one by one until it did the same. Now I'm trying to get the SSD working again. I moved it to a different computer, used a usb-c to sata adapter on my phone, and tried every sata port on my pc but it still wont show up. It only had games on it so I don't really care about the data but I can't even get the drive to appear in bios or disk management. It's a Fanxiang 512 gig if it helps, I knew it was garbage so I only put games on it but would still like to try and revive it. I took it apart and the LED light still comes on so there's hope, no obvious signs of damage or shorts. I tried looking it up but people were unhelpful with the (just format it) and change sata compatibility mode to IDE in bios. I have little hope of fixing it but figured I'd try posting on here and see if somebody knows some obscure way to get a SSD to show up in the bios. [How does a power outage kill a single SSD but leave everything else just fine]

I've just completed assembling my new PC with the following components: - CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X3D - CPU Cooler: Deepcool ASSASSIN IV - GPU: Gigabyte 4070 TI SUPER Aero - Mainboard: Gigabyte AORUS Elite AX ICE AMD B650 So.AM5 - RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB (2x 16GB, 5200MHz) - PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 12 M Modular 1000 Watt 80+ Gold However, I'm encountering a problem. After finishing the build, I updated the BIOS via Q-Flash Plus and attempted to power on the machine. Unfortunately, nothing happened. I waited, considering that AM5 systems sometimes take longer to boot. But even after 20 minutes, there was no progress. Upon restarting, I noticed that the DRAM LED was illuminated, indicating an issue. Here are the troubleshooting steps I've already taken: - Tried different RAM configurations (using one DIMM in different slots, swapping DIMMs between slots). - Flashed an older BIOS version. - Removed all storage devices (including two different M.2 drives). - Removed the GPU. - Cleared the CMOS. - Cleared the CMOS and re-flashed the BIOS. - Removed the CPU, CPU cooler, and re-flashed the BIOS. Another thing I have noticed is that the 2 CPU cooler fans are not spinning even though they are connected Despite researching on YouTube and various forums, I haven't been able to resolve the issue. Unfortunately, I don't have access to any other DDR5 RAM or AM5 CPUs to test with. Thank you in advance from Germany and for any help or advice.

Hello, I think my new Gigabyte Aorus Pro X X670E board is bricked. I built it just less then 30 days ago. I was changing some memory settings and tried saving and rebooting only to be greeted by a post failure. As soon as I restarted the system there has been no life on the motherboard and has been constant since. The only thing that lights up is a red CPU debug light and fans spin but no other RGB on fans or motherboard illuminates. Things I have done to troubleshoot include: jumping and resetting cmos, changed the cmos battery, removed gpu, re-installed motherboard, removed and tested ram, attempted flashing motherboard with QFLASH + with 2.0 USB with latest bios revision named gigabyte.bin. Nada on anything. I'm kind of at a loss now and it's very disappointing since I never had this kind of issue on my previous Gigabyte Z490 Aorus Master motherboard. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I purchased this new platform on NewEgg US if anyone's wondering. Specs: Ryzen 7 7800X3D Corsair H150i Elite Cappelix XT 360mm AIO G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo Series 48GB (2x24) 6400MHz CL32 Gigabyte Aorus Pro X X670E EVGA GT 1000W Gold Modular Fractal Torrent

Hi all, I have a laptop which work let me keep when we moved over to new laptops. Admittedly i think it was just a nice IT guy as opposed to company policy. However, the laptop is bios locked, initially I managed to boot it from usb windows media, and reinstalled windows, removing all partitions (bitlocker was mentioned during this part). Now when I turn on the laptop it takes me to a corporate login page, seems like initial set up of a corporate laptop. I am wondering if I replace the SSD if this will solve the issues and I can reinstall windows on it then? I’ve also read that if I use the new ssd in this machine it will be locked to that machine? I believe the Bios lock is going to be impossible to remove. Happy to answer any questions.

Hi all, here we go again -amd 5900x -asus crosshair viii / WiFi (all was done with latest bios installed first - 5702 or something. Late march 2024) / ekwb waterblock made for the board, covers the vrms and cpu (only mounted with 4 screws but not fun to remove) -4x Corsair vengeance 18@3600, 16gb each (QVL ok) SIDE NOTE do have 4x 16@3200 16g sticks, nighthawks by teamforce. DOCP didn’t work / non qvl so swapped em out quite a while ago - no problems, just saying I have a spare set -asus 4090 w custom waterblock -xfx 6700 xt w custom block -pci 1x to 16x riser, usb 3.0 (unused ATM but plugged in) -quadro 4000 rtx -more radiators than necessary -all the fans are thermaltake something’s, high end/expensive. No RGB, either 2500/3000 rpm peak 120s and 140s -thermal take dc5 pump with 500ml res. -another dc5 pump connected to the drain ports on the top radiator (420mmx60mm) with a seperate 1L res. It’s there for redundancy and to help the primary pump cycle the water, yes that many radiators…. Still have one 140mmx60mm on “standby” waiting to be installed MORE IMPORTANTLY -seasonic 1000w bronze blah blah, ONLY powering the motherboard, cpu (aux cpu too) and 4090. Only powering the molex for the TT pump. I mean face it, I’ll use the best brand to power the most crucial stuff -“gamemax” 1050w bronze powering 8x sata drives, the fan hub, 6700/quadro and molex to pump 2 (“jump started” with lol, one of my many mobo this pin to that pin things) this guys outside the case -DO have a spare psu, seasonic 1500w PLATINUM, Corsair. Had it in a while ago then did math and figured out at 80% peak efficiency (assuming) I had ~1200w to work with. Say the least when the pc was under 100% load it couldn’t sustain and my system would just shut off. Again doing math, 230w max TDP on cpu, 75w per pci, 8x SSDs, fan hub, toss in the video cards…. Yeah. Should mention it’s an EU version (I guess it’s better than US? I dono, wasn’t intentional), have a EU to US 120v power cable. It’s gotta be 12/10 gauge per wire, pos/neg/ground. Easy to find in my cache of pc stuff cause duh. It’s super thick +since I noticed issues with power that’s when I took it out an opted for 2x PSU’s rather than one (thing was large too, had to pull out the aforementioned 140mm radiator to make room) -thermal take TT71 view full/E-atx case, it’s all been taken apart to a skeleton since I did the psu swap. Yes I did swap the Corsair power lines for the appropriate PSUs, pain in the butt -both PSUs are plugged directly into the outlet and each outlets are on seperate breakers (haven’t tripped one… yet) -2x Samsung 980 1tb nvmes, 2023 manufacture date, made in Korea or Vietnam… forget. HAD 2021 variants which thanks to Samsung failed to release a “notification” to update the firmware immediately or your drives will die. Just saying, anyone reading this, yeah… -GPU’s are installed top to bottom in order mentioned (think that’s all, at least what’s relevant?) PROBLEM: Q-code reads 00, can’t do bios flashback via usb cause I noticed they don’t light up on POST. See “what I’ve tried” for more details. WHAT MAY HAVE HAPPENED: day prior I was fiddling with overclocking the CPU. Using HWinfo for duh, cinebench r23/aida64(prime95?)/nicehash(only cpu was enabled) for monitoring and writing down voltages per core, core “order” preferred. Basicallly I was handwriting cinebench scores (5 min stress multi and single), hashrates etc along with the values as reported by HWinfo, voltages/temps and so on. I had NOT been working with the PBO scalar at this point. ALL bios were stock aside from a few minor areas unrelated, SVM and 4g decoding, raid, disabled EDC (whatever for power efficiency/auto downstepping, ERP?) anyway I had gotten to 46x multiplier in main menu, CCX 0/1 to 46 also. Power settings were set to “extreme”, 120% on cpu, 140 (I think) on DRAM. most settings were either enabled or left to auto. If I recall correctly I eventually just went to auto to eliminate variables by the time I got to stressing it I wrote down values, my notes are in the office, I noticed at 4600mhz (cores aren’t set to go faster or slower) the mobo wouldn’t supply more than 1.300v per core, 12 total. At this point cinevench would crash and Nicehash would “blow up” the pc (immediate shut down) so I toned it all down to 43x, ccd0/1 too. Figured I’d be on the safe side doing so, plus I got the best results in my notes. ~20100 on cinebench, .00890 hashrate (again may be inaccurate, notes upstairs) tpu I and II set to “none”, uh that application preference thing to “none” (It has options for Geekbench, cinebench and 2 others) BLCLK at 100.00 from there I had her mining all night, after a few hours I enabled the 3 GPUs. Woke up the next day and yep, all was still good and going. ~1.204v avg on all cores So now I’m like… hmm. Let’s try to increase the voltage one step at a time and keep the everything the same. I have a saved bios profile on a USB of the most stable setup so why not? I forget what the positive increments were but from none I hit “+” and it… offset, increased? Idk whatever it did, by like .00264 something. The minimal amount Saved, restart, windows was stable. Though I did notice the monitor would go blank on login (auto login via registry). The gpu would kick in (after the “dos” spinny image) and I’d see my username which has a profile pic of my dog, blank, dog again pc is thinking, blank, then desktop as usual. Mind you the “blank” was just black screen and basically a quick flicker i don’t recall checking HwInfo, my assumption was my clock speed was too “low” for the additional voltage. I naturally figured no point in stressing it or checking restsrt, bumped up one more (now we’re at + twice, so two “minimal” increments) and went to 4600 to compensate. I mean, 4600 worked fine aside from crashing due to the 1.3v “lock” I noticed the day before. Hence why I stepped it up a tad one last time bam, BSOD loop. Whoopsie. now this part I’m unsure as I don’t remember completely what I did. Back to bios, removed the voltage offset, went down to 43x all over, and I’m pretty sure I adjusted the VRM/delivery from extreme to optimal, put cpu voltage to 120% peak, down’ed the ram to 110%. Basically my mindset was I’m getting too excited and I had best stay in a safe bubble. save/restart ahhhhh darn, q-code of 00 and nothing. Literally no POST, waited watching the q-code LED and no change. Fudge! WHAT HAVE I TRIED? -first logical step, hit the clear CMOS button on the IO panel, the green one. It’s worked in the past just not with a 00 code. No dice -thought for a second, looked at the manual. Hm, there’s a button on the motherboard for safe boot. Ok. Squeezed my finger in there blind and felt it (the little button isn’t by any others by far) and pushed it. Nope -flipped off the power, waited maybe ten seconds then unplugged the PSUs. Waited idk ten minutes, reversed the above and hit the glowing start button. Nothing. Tried safe boot again, nothing -snap, now I’m in a pickle. Removed power sources as noted above and flipped the switch on the motherboard for SLOW MODE. Yes only switch on the bottom, mentioned in manual, yada yada. Power applied again, still 00. Well… let’s reflash the bios via the button and a usb -flipped safe boot off, (done this before) and used a laptop (hp 8760w/32g/3x SSDs/m.2 as boot/datacenter 2022) to setup a usb. First used a 128g drive, went to format and duh, ntfs or exFAT. Nah that won’t work, plus it don’t have a blinky light as an IO indicator. Grabbed my BIOS drive with the saved profiles, shoved the same bios I have on it, root directory and renamed to C8HW.cap (whatever it should be). No go. It’s only a 512mb but I do know the pc is finicky about it and spits a Qcode if I load a profile/save/reboot and leave it plugged in. Eh maybe it’s just the stick, no biggie -busted out my ziplock of flash drives. All varying capacities and brands. One drive was too large (according to manual it says = or less than 2gb) so I just did diskpart and cleaned the volume. Then cleaned the drive. Made a 1g partition at the “start” of the drive and fat32’d it. No dice again 1gb drive, another 512, and a 256mb (haha yep), all done same as above minus the partitioning. Just clean/format fat32 and “whatever”.cap. Nothing read a thread that said sometimes using windows to unzip a file can corrupt a bios file. Winrar is a better option, ok Last attempt, 512mb stick I usually use, same process just with winrar. Nothing Manual says once the button goes blue it’ll blink and stay blue, could take some time but once it isn’t blue anymore it’s done. So pc is still sitting there with the blue light on and stuck in the obvious port labeled for flashback (just being descriptive for sake of a response asking if I used the correct usb port) so far, nothing -prior to the last/current usb, swapped cpu power from the seasonic to the “gamemax”. No go. Figure that was a pointless route since just below the power headers has a red light that stays illuminated if, duh, no power (provided the mobo has power). Power delivery is fine -also removed cpu-opt fan from header. Removed HUB from cpu header and plugged in a spare fan. Still 00 -oh and left the pc with no power for at least 24 hours. Both PSUs off and unplugged. Nothing - even without the “gamemax” PSU connected CONCLUSION? 00 indicates a cpu issue or a motherboard issue. Taking a wild guess tinkering with the bios, trying to reflash it entirely messed it up. Without a UART flasher I can’t do it manually also I might have messed the cpu up. Not sure if it’s plausible cause a MOBO of this… nature has failsafes built in to prevent “blowing it up”. I’ve had similar issues in the past and instead of panicking I just let it sit without power, then all would be fine as mentioned the usb sticks never blink even without hitting the reflash button. So if the mobo don’t detect a cpu, it stops any POST attempts thereafter. Hence, no usb activity. Sure my crap via usb gets power, gaming mat and junk. Otherwise nothing i dont have a spare cpu laying around to try out. Kinda wish I did! Prior to all this mess I was playing Horizon Forbidden West CE on my G9 with full settings on. Blah! so now ya know the story. What to try first? Only thing I haven’t done is take out all the GPUs or swap the ram. Highly doubt it would matter, no cpu? POST wont check anything beyond that keep in mind the board DOES have “pins” to check voltages with a voltometer. Meh, maybe try that? any, any ideas would be a great help. (Whining) I wanna play my games! BTW as mentioned I have a usb with saved profiles on it. I been backing em up since I finished the build. If anybody has a way of viewing them (dono how, are they saved in text?) maybe that would provide best course of action?

Hi everyone. I bought a new pc. I have an MSI B650-S pro mb and gigabyte windforce 4070 super. After booting it up, i cant see the loading screen and it only shows the win11. When i tap to del button to enter bios or f11 to select an os, there is nothing too. I am sure that it goes to bios because the windows doesnt come. These problems only occur with DP and not with hdmi. I tried connecting DP cable to cpu (ryzen 5 7600) but the result was same. what is the issue?

I tried building a pc and it will power on but not boot bios. I just get a black screen. Can someone help me troubleshoot this? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/N8Vzh3 I tried reseating the ram. I haven't tried checking the cpu placement yet. I have also tried an hdmi and display port out and different monitors. I am thinking it could be a defective psu wire or maybe it needs a bios update?

Hello I am having this same problem with my build. Fans running, ram leds on, but nothing on the display. here are my specs: https://www.newegg.com/m/tools/custom-pc-builder/ld?dln=33077017 I was getting a solid yellow light on vga but i redid the gpu install and now I am just getting a solid yellow light on boot. i did not update any bios before hand is it possible i need to do that for my cpu to be compatible?

I bought the NZXT player one model, this is my first pc. I have watched tons of videos from LTT and other popular tech content creators. Ever video I have seen says to enable XMP. Here are the specs of the pre build: CPU Intel® Core™ i5-12400F GPU NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 3050 Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR5 5200 MHz Motherboard B760 Storage 1TB NVMe M.2 SSD PSU 650W Gold Is there any conflict with the motherboard or anything that would make turning on XMP cause any harm or slowly damage something?

Hi, I recently wanted to try my luck with performing a xeon mod for an LGA775 board. I think that I succeeded with the socket modification, and the cpu modification (adding the mod adapter). The cpu did heat up, but it didn't post. So I checked that my motherboard does support quad core CPUs. I took out the bios memory, and used a universal programmer to copy the .bin file of bios. Then I changed the file extension from .bin to .rom and I used the MMTOOL to insert the microcodes into the bios file. And the problem is, how can I create a boot-able usb to update my bios? My motherboard doesn't have a usb flash port and it doesn't have any way to select a drive to flash bios in the bios. And of course I can't flash it using software on my lubuntu drive. (I still can use the OS with the previous cpu) The modified bios file in the attachment. The xeon model is e5440. please send help :< xeon modified.rom

So I have spent the better part of 2 weeks (in my free time) trying to sort out what exactly is going on with this thing. Let me air out this story for some context. I had purchased this kit off of eBay almost as soon as I had seen the posting. It was a solid price ($551USD) and already had the upgraded Sunrich S-331 backplane so I was pretty stoked that there really wouldn't be anything for me to do beside have fun... Specs - 1 x SuperMicro X9SRH-7TF 1 x Intel Xeon E5-1620V2 4 x Hynix HMT31GR7CFR4C-PB 8GB DDR3 3 x PI49230-2X2B 2 x PSM-5760V Fast forward to today and it's honestly been a huge headache. Initially after the first boot, I was having issues with the board either not detecting my keyboard or locking up entirely. So I had spent some time reading the manual and had sorted out howe to reset the BIO to factory defaults. So I did what anyone else does and I pulled the motherboard and found that there were a 2 standoffs that didn't correlate to any holes so I had assumed the board maybe had died. Reached out to the seller to request a new board ands the sent one over. Out of curiosity I put the board on a test bench to tinker around and behold it boots? I thought ok, maybe that wasn't the issue, after a quick bios check, and adding one PCIe card it would bios lock, so I had assumed ok maybe it is dead. New board arrived, and I had assembled it in the chassis(after removing the problematic standoffs) I verified a few times that everything was in order before booting and on first boot it boot locks...again.. seemingly on bios code B4. I have since spent 4 hours along with a few friends troubleshooting various things and still no luck. Ubuntu doesn't recognize any drives (attached to the board directly or to the backplanes) and it still will lock up during post for some unknown reason. The board is on BIOS version 3.0 and the new version don't have any relevant updates so here I am, asking if anyone else has had this issue. Not sure what else to try, the backplanes don't work with my desktop (No Post) and directly adding the drive bypassing the backplanes also yields no success. Thanks in advance and hopefully I'm just an idiot :/ IMG_2155.HEIC IMG_2137.HEIC

Hi. I have a Gigabyte 4090 Gaming OC for less than a year, running with some mild undervolt with MSI AB, that has been stable since day 1. However, 5 days ago, I updated "successfully" the BIOS for the GPU. I updated the BIOS because the previous one had some fan revving issues and the new BIOS is supposedly addressing this issue. I used Gigabyte Control Center (GCC) for the BIOS flash and the app showed the update as correctly applied. Immediately, I uninstalled the crappy GCC but then, after 2 hours using the PC (web searching, nothing intensive), it froze showing artifacts. Since then I've tried to reinstall Nvidia drivers (DDU + installation of latest drivers), but after some hours it froze again at start-up. I have also tried to reinstall GCC as some Reddit posts were showing similar issues after uninstalling it, but after 1 day, the PC froze again showing artifacts also at Windows start-up. Then, for the last 4 days the GPU has been working fine (gaming too), until this morning the same happened at start-up screen. The thing is, I'm assuming there's a problem with the new BIOS, but after contacting Gigabyte support center, they replied stating that there's no way to revert the BIOS to the previous one. My main questions are: Is there a way to downgrade the BIOS safely? I know about the existence of Nvflash, but I'm not sure if it can be used to safely downgrade the BIOS. I have only found info of that being used for upgrades, not downgrades. Could the BIOS actually be the culprit for the artifacts? Or even a software issue? I've tried the GPU on my former system, and it has also crashed (so, I haven't even bothered to create a partition for a clean Windows install). Should I RMA it before doing anything else that could render the GPU completely unusable? I'm typing this with the 4090 running and I'm sure I coulde do some intensive gaming with it for hours before crashing again (so, at least now I'm able to post and start Windows with it). I'm attaching some pictures with the artifacts. Thanks!