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Ok, little bit of a click-bait title. I know that I need to turn off my subwoofer and monitors before restarting, which is what I do. The REAL question is what can I do to avoid needing to crawl under my desk to turn off my subwoofer? My thought is that the popping occurs because my audio interface is USB-powered and the popping occurs when the interface loses power (or when it turns back on, not 100% sure which). I wonder if I got one that was self-powered, it might solve the problem? Any other suggestions on what I might do to avoid having to crawl under my desk to turn off the subwoofer? Thanks!

Hey everyone, So i finally decided I missed sports games enough to buy a PS5 slim. I didn't pay too much attention when I bought it but unfortunately sony in their infinite wisdom does not include a 3.5mm audio jack anywhere. In fact the only ports are USB-A, USB-C, ethernet (luckily) and HDMI.... So I piped the HDMI with video and audio signal to my monitor... which of course has no speakers because it's a gaming monitor... I thought i'd have to leave my beatuiful hifiman sundara's on the shelf and use a terrible PS5 headset everytime I used the thing until I realized my monitor has a audio passthrough... so I passed it through to my line in on my PC. With a few software tweaks things were running. I had to keep my PC on in order for the soundcard to play the audio through the speakers but at least both devices could use the same speakers. The problem is... with all these connections and chords even in a tight space the signal really loses steam... I can hear it sure but it isn't that rich beautiful audio I've become accustomed to with my Edifier MR4s for speakers and my HIFIman Sundara's. I was going to buy an amp/ dac anyways for the sundaras because they have low volume problems too... that's just due to the impedance though so I expected to have to do that. I'm wondering if it's safe to run a red and white RCA chord to RCA on the back of an amp/ dac output. Then run a RCA to 3.5mm chord from the input to connect the pc. And another aux chord from the Monitor audio passthrough to the 3.5mm input on a amp/dac and then connect the HIFIMAN Sundara's to the front headphone output weather it's quarter inch or 3.5mm doesn't matter sundara's have both. I essentially need an amp dac that can handle the input of a PS5 slim as well as the input from my PC and then output the audio signal to either the headphones or the speakers. I'll never be using the PS5 at the same time as the PC and vice versa. I'll also never need the speakers to play at the same time as the headphones... I'm just really struggling understanding all these audio things. I've also read that if you have powered speakers not bookshelf speakers like i do that you aren't supposed to run them through another amp/dac beecause it can brick them. I ordered the Fiio k5 pro which on their product page says you can run the RCA from your powered speakers to it... so idunno if that is true or not.... I'm just throughly confused and in need of tech tips. PLZ send help. BTW LTT your deskmat is awesome I love it! Thanks for getting me into PC building it's been a great hobby to get into while I heal from a car crash.

Hi. I powered on my PC today and in addition to my raspberry pi suddenly being inaccessible on my network (which a reboot fixed, but I'm perplexed by), my speakers make loud static sounds constantly whenever they are on. I mention the raspberry pi thing just for context. From google images, it seems like I have either the Logitech Z625 or the Logitech Z623. Not sure what my exact model is- I cannot find it. But they looks exactly like those models. The speakers are powered from the wall/outlet and have a power button. As long as they are plugged in to any outlet (i've tried multiple) and the power button is on, they make noise. I've tried turning off my PC's PSU switch, unplugging the speakers from my PC/Motherboard, reseating the cable connections, and I also tested a pair of headphones plugged into my front audio jack on my case, and those work perfectly fine. I dont understand how all of this can happen when it was all working fine 1-2 days ago. Any help is very appreciated.

Hi guys, i have a problem right here, i have this Z313 Speaker and Subwoofer combo and the remote attached to the subwoofer (which the speakers are plugged into} doesn't work. So i wanted to use only the speakers in the mean time (i was searching for a repair shop). If i plug my speakers into the laptop the speakers don't work

hello im looking for a speakers set under 200 euro. i want some bass but it not my prioritie. (its for my desktop)

I have a pair of KRK Classic 5's connected with Balanced TRS cables to an Arturia MiniFuse 1. I have an SVS SB-1000 kicking around that I want too add to the setup. I understand that studio setups typically route from Interface > Sub > monitors. However, the SB-1000 does not have balanced inputs or outputs. Is it possible to add the SB-1000 while retaining balanced audio for the monitors? I believe I could get the system to work with TS (unbalanced) to RCA cables from the interface to the sub, then another pair from the sub to the monitors. I would really like to retain balanced audio for the monitors. Could I use a pair of TRS splitters (one for L & one for R) out of the interface > balanced TRS cables (one from each splitter) to the monitors AND unbalanced TS to RCA cables to the sub (L & R channel)? Or would mixing the TS and TRS cables in the splitter make both unbalanced? Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I recently got my uncles powered Marshall Woburn II Bluetooth as a gift. As I already had one that I got my self a while back, it got me wondering how I could connect them to my TV as separate Left and Right channels. I know that Marshall let’s you combine both speakers as one in their App via Bluetooth, but I was hoping I could do it with wires. My TV has ARC, optical/Toslink and Bluetooth. Marshall‘s Woburn II Bluetooth have an AUX port, RCA (red and white) and Bluetooth. Thanks in advance for any help I receive…

Hello, I received a Fenda F770X as a gift. Sadly the noise is quite bad. At lower volumes it dilutes the sound and when nothing is playing it is more noticeable than my PC fans. As it is a gift and that the giver often comes around I cannot replace it - I would find it insulting and frankly I am grateful for the gift nonetheless. Can I somehow fix the noise? (by internal modding) I am willing to put the time into it... Thanks

So I have a Razer Blade 15 2019. The speakers haven't worked for some time. At a certain point they started sounding really tinny and distorted, then one day they just fizzled out. Since then they just make a repeated and rhythmic popping sound whenever audio output should begin (when watching media, gaming, or just adjusting the windows volume). Until recently I've ignored it because I don't use the laptop often, but now I'd really like to get to the bottom of this. I've tried updating drivers, rolling back drivers, disabling and enabling various audio devices, upgrading the operating system and even replacing the physical speakers themselves. However nothing seems to be working and now I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?

Hey guys/gals, I know this is probably a question that's been asked a billion times, but I've literally not bought a 5.1 speaker setup since 2005. I have an ancient Altec Lansing 5.1 that I literally duct-taped the housing on the subwoofer twice to remove rattling on, and it's sounded fantastic until developing a bit of a rattle again recently. I think it's time to find areplacement, simply because age is not doing the wires any justice. My budget is malleable, I'd prefer to keep things under $250 if possible. Brands, I'm open to suggestions. I've got an ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-H board that'd I'd love to take full advantage of, in case I haven't been so far. The audio on it has been fantastic, both with speakers and on my Logitech headset. Sorry if this is a common "Ugh, not another post like this" post, but I've been out of hunting for PC speakers for... what, 18 years? So my knowledge is 2005-ish. Thanks in advance for any help offered! I'll check back on this later tonight as time allows. :>

Hello, for some reason the sound on my PC is no longer working. I just finished installing a cpu AIO cooler but now no matter what device I use I can not get any sound to come from PC (tried headphones and speakers). All I get is a low pitched hum sound that does not show up on the volume mixer and starts going even while the computer is still booting up. Situation: - PC is playing Audio (green bar shows on audio mixer) but I can not hear anything except for a low humming sound. - Audio devices are plugged into correct ports on PC and are properly selected in device settings but no output What I Have Tried: - Redownloading Audio Drivers for BIOS - Deleting and redownloading ALL audio drivers - Tested PC audio on both headphones and speakers with no luck - Made sure all Audio related connections on motherboard are still connected - Made sure correct device is connected and selected in settings I think I have now tried just about every commonly recommended solution for this problem and have had no luck at all. Please help me!!

In this comment someone says it matters what watts my amp output per channel when picking a speaker wire gauge I don't have. I amp I only have a av receiver Where does it say what rating The comment https://postimg.cc/gallery/bPGk2vQ/b2f9d435 My av receiver https://www.denon.com/en-us/product/av-receivers/avr-x1600h My speakers https://petertyson.co.uk/yamaha-ns-p41-5-1-home-theatre-speaker-package?SGS&gclid=CjwKCAjwh-CVBhB8EiwAjFEPGdVprHltu6Azwh6eIwNqTsY0ghr2ZyzGiyLQJatma5NA8ZkFBvunRhoCI3AQAvD_BwE

I am searching for a new laptop for my younger brother (14) that would need it mainly for music production with apps like Reaper, MuseScore and generally anything about editing, composing and listening to music. It doesn't need to have great gaming performance as the only game I've seen him play was Minecraft, so a laptop that can run it with some nice shaders at 30 fps is more than enough. I don't really know what kind of specs it would need to give a great and futureproof experience with working with music, but I'm guessing that a CPU, GPU and RAM do play a role along with the quality of the speakers (he doesn't really like using hearphones/headphones). It would be best if the screen was more than 14" and less than 17", 16" would be ideal. Resolution of course at least 1080p, but I don't think 1440p is necessary. IPS or OLED doesn't really matter as neither does the webcam resolution (or any webcam at all). Long lasting battery is a must as he would be often using it not plugged in. For the same reason, a thin and light laptop is preferable over a thick and heavy one. Budget is surely at least 1000€ (we live in Italy), but even up to 1800€ is fine, although the less the better ahah No Apple products. What I managed to find were the following laptops, but maybe they are not the most suitable for my brother's needs or are too overkill. All of them have Windows 11 and I listed the models with 2x 8GB of RAM, but it' possible for all of them to increase it to 2x 16GB with around 80€. They are listed in decreasing order of base price: Laptop #1 This one, unlike all others that have heat pipes, has a vapor chamber. Price: 1719€ Size and weight: 360mm x 273mm x 20mm, 2.7Kg Display: 240Hz sRGB LED 16" 2560x1600 CPU: Intel Core i9-13900H GPU: RTX 4050 6GB 75W+25W (RTX 4060 8GB 115W+25W with +94€) RAM: DDR5 4800MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+62€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 73Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Studio Pro with 2 2W speakers I/O: 2.5Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6E AX211, BT 5.2, HDMI 2.1, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 1 Thunderbolt 4, 1 USB-C 3.2, 2 USB-A 3.2, 2 jacks (in & out). Laptop #2 This one, unlike all others that use Arctic MX-4, uses liquid metal for both CPU and GPU. Also, with +144€, it's possible to change the display to 240Hz sRGB LED 16" 2560x1600 and the GPU to RTX 4060 8GB 115W+25W. Price: 1549€ Size and weight: 360mm x 267mm x 22mm, 2.5Kg Display: 165Hz sRGB 16" 1920x1200 CPU: Intel Core i7-13700H GPU: RTX 4050 6GB 75W+25W RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 62Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Audio Nahimic with 2 2W speakers I/O: 2.4Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6 AX201, BT 5.2, HDMI 2.1, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 1 USB-C 3.2, 2 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 2 jacks (in & out). Laptop #3 Price: 1306€ Size and weight: 397mm x 262mm x 25mm, 2.4Kg Display: 144Hz NTSC LED 17.3" 1920x1080 CPU: Intel Core i7-13700H GPU: RTX 3050 4GB 95W+15W RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 54Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Studio with 2 2W speakers I/O: 1Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6E AX211, BT 5.2, HDMI 1.4, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 2 USB-C 3.2, 1 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 2 jacks (in & out). Laptop #4 Price: 1274€ Size and weight: 360mm x 238mm x 23mm, 2Kg Display: 144Hz NTSC LED 15.6" 1920x1080 CPU: Intel Core i7-13700H GPU: RTX 3050 4GB 95W+15W RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 54Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Studio with 2 2W speakers I/O: 1Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6E AX211, BT 5.2, HDMI 1.4, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 2 USB-C 3.2, 1 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 1 jack. Laptop #5 Price: 1227€ Size and weight: 360mm x 238mm x 23mm, 2Kg Display: 144Hz NTSC LED 15.6" 1920x1080 CPU: Intel Core i7-12700H GPU: RTX 3050 4GB 75W+15W (RTX 3050Ti with +156€) RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 54Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Cinema 6 with 2 2W speakers I/O: 1Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6 AX201, BT 5.0, HDMI 1.4, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 2 USB-C 3.2, 1 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 1 jack.

Did a random search and stumbled upon Cavern1, 2. Has anyone tried this? TL:DR of the video: Demo of Dolby Atmos sound trailer being decoded on the pc with the positional sound being animated in software Since I only have a standard 5.1 setup, I can't test it's effectiveness. Source: 1: http://cavern.sbence.hu/cavern/ 2: https://github.com/VoidXH/Cavern

If I were to have 1 pc, 2 monitors and 2 speakers, (lets say monitor a, and monitor b, and speaker a, and speaker B) Can I have the sound from monitor "A" come out speaker "A", and the sound from monitor "B" come out of speaker "B"? or will both the sound from both monitors "a", and "B" come out of both speakers "a" and "B"

I Have been Trying to figure this out for ages. I have a Pc with two monitors and I also have an Xbox one. I also have some speakers that accept sound from a male audo 3.5m jack. I have managed to get sound to play through a headset from the xbox and the pc quite easily as it has its own little mixamp so it collects sound from the pc via USB and then sound from the xbox via the audio jack out of the monitor. I can find no way to get this same thing to work with my actual speakers. I want to be able to Plug my xbox /switch/pc/monitor into something that i can plug my speakers into and hear both things at once. For example I want to be able to play xbox on one screen and youtube from the pc on another and hear them both through one set of speakers. This sounds really simple but im finding it inpossible, one solution was to use the Microphone jack at the pack of the pc and connect that to the monitor with a male to male audio jack but that has wierd delays and sounds aweful as its like it constantly stops and waits for sound to be made rather than just playing the audio. Any help would be Amazing!

Hey guys, my family recently did a remodel of our basement and I got some of the old Boston speakers that we use to use in our surround sound set up (more specifically the front left and right speakers). I have brought them to my college dorm in the hopes of setting them up with my current set up which consists of a Vinyl record player, gaming laptop, and tv. I had an old small Pyle amp but it broke and could never get the speakers really loud enough to comfortable watch shows and listen to records on. Does anyone have any good, budget friendly suggestions? Picture of speakers and link to old amp will be below. Thanks! Pyle home speaker amp: https://www.amazon.com/Home-Audio-Power-Amplifier-System/dp/B003NVN1PY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=3UDREZQ5ZSNMB&keywords=pyle+amplifier&qid=1673196475&sprefix=pyle%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-9&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

So I got some money from the holidays and my birthday and I was going to buy the Logitech Z906 with that money. But after doing some research I'm having some doubts and I can't decide on what to buy. Option nr1: Logitech Z906 Option nr2: Pioneer DJ DM-50D-BT (or better value speakers if anyone can recommend some) I would love to have a 5.1 surround setup in my room for gaming, watching movies or listening to music. But I have a pretty small room so I'll never be able to turn it past 30% or I'll be deaf. On the other hand I would like the Pioneer speakers since I like DJing in my spare time but then I won't have the 5.1 surround anymore. I really can't decide, is there anyone able to help me out here? Thanks in advance

Hi everyone! My name is Zak, and I am currently working on getting a degree in industrial and innovative design. I am currently working on ideas for a capstone project, and I was wondering if I could get some input on one of my potential ideas. I really like the concept of is designing a way to integrate home theater audio with furniture. There is some precedent for this type of thing with companies like lovesac integrating speakers into couch cushions, and victrola and some other companies making side table bluetooth speakers. But none of those are really high quality hifi solutions in my opinion. I was thinking of integrating audio into a tv console, in such a way that it would basically be like a giant high quality soundbar, and maybe combining that with a subwoofer concealed as a side table, but that's just one way you could do it. One company that has tried this approach and no longer exists is MeiliAudio, who designed a great looking, and apparently great sounding tv console (pictured below), but that company is gone, though hopefully not because their product wasn't a good idea. The benefit of this approach is that if you or your significant other don't like the way your living room/theatre room looks with a bunch of sound equipment in it, this would be a great discreet compromise for high quality audio that also is a high quality piece of beautiful furniture. If this is something you'd be interested in leave a reply on my post, and let me know what you think! Some things I'd love to get your opinion on are, should I be considering other types of furniture for this idea, would this fit into the market seeing as relatively cheap decent sounding soundbars exist, and if it should exist, would you prefer it as like an ikea level product (which might actually work since they have that sonos partnership), or something more handcrafted and oriented towards audiophiles?

In the last few months, the audio of my computer has been getting progressively worse and worse. It started with faint popping noises once in a while, and now its constant crackling and popping every second or so. I have tried updating/rolling back the drivers, disabling audio enhancements, etc. The problem doesn't seem to be the headphones nor the cable. I tried them in many other computers and they sounded totally fine. Regardless of the source on my computer I have these problems. My speakers also have them. I tried a cheap little USB sound card and the issues stayed and were even worse. When I restart my PC, it starts running fine and then progressively the popping comes back. My main idea right now is that it might be the PSU, but I'd need more opinions! Here are the specs: OS: Windows 10 Audio 1:USB Audio Adapter PELAT USB External Sound Card Audio 2: Onboard audio AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor Asus PRIME X570-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard 2x Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Samsung 960 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Seagate BarraCuda Pro 4 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB Video Card Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Deepcool Castle 360 RGB V2 360mm All-in-One Liquid CPU Cooler

I'm SO CONFUSED. So I had a soundbar at first at my desk. The sound was pretty good. I've only used it with an optical cable and I never had any issues. But, it was too big, and I wanted better stereo separation. So at first I bought an Edifier R1855DB set. Which, is sorta great, the speakers sound fantastic, but, since I got them, I had many, many audio crackles, all the time, both on optical and on RCA. I didn't really hear it much on music, but heard it a lot on talking (LTT) videos. To be sure, I tried everything on windows, re installing the Realtek Audio Driver, updating it, and after that didn't help, using windows recovery to go back to stock (because I like having loudness equalization and the newest Realtek driver doesn't support that). I also tried setting it to 44khz, 48khz, studio/cd/dvd quality. And of course I also tried disabling all windows enhancements, doesn't help either. And I ran latencymon, and it told me everything is perfect. So, I contacted edifier and they asked me for examples which I've sent (pasted below as well), and they're still looking into it. But I was so annoyed by the pops and crackles, I returned those speakers. I then bought a creative T100 set, I was pretty sure the Edifier set was the problem, because I've never had problems with the soundbar (which I have given away by now btw). Guess what. On the T100, the problem is exactly the same. I'm starting to think the new better speakers (both brands) are so good, they make me hear things windows causes, and the "bad" soundbar didn't let me hear those, or something like that? Is there anything I can do? PS on bluetooth I hear the problem a lot less, it's still there a bit, but not too much. The bluetooth delay on video however is not something I can live with. Edit: the problem maybe isn't there at all on bluetooth, I'm not too sure. It might be there a tiny bit, but at least it's a lot less. I really hope someone here can help me. I really don't want to buy the same crappy soundbar that I gave away, new, again. Examples:

ive had these logitech ls11 speakers for a while now, and ive noticed a issue with my right speaker, it has like 2 aux ports for an mp3 player and one for headphones right, and when I plug in my headphones play any sort of sound, and then unplug the headphones my right speaker stops working and have to unplug the aux cable of the speakers and plug it back in for it to work again. this is like the weirdest issue ive ever had and I need help fixing it.

hi guys, im looking to upgrade my internal speaker on my lenovo v110-15isk laptop. It has 1 shitty speaker and looks like this: Aliexpress link I was hoping if there is a lenovo dual internalspeaker that would maybe fit the connector like the one in the picutre/link. There is space for bigger speakers in this laptop. It has plenty of unused space.

My family is going on a long trip and would like to buy a set of bluetooth speakers to watch movies with. Ideally these speakers should be: pretty loud Ideally able to be heard at 20 feet in a vehicle with pretty bad road noise around 100$ fully wireless

Hello everyone! So I built my first ever PC (worked first time I might add...) about 1 1/2 years ago and have been relying on monitor speakers for a while, but now I want to buy some GOOD computer speakers. But I'm a complete noob, don't even know where I'd plug in the speakers to my computer, kind of noob. Mr priority is longevity of product, but then I also want the best quality I can squeeze out of it. If it's good quality sound for it's price but doesn't last then what's the point. Here are what I'm considering from order of most wanted to least justified. -- $200.00 (x2) "SVS Prime Satellite - Piano Gloss White" Maxing out what I'd like to spend. -- $149.99 "Bose Companion 2 Series III Multimedia Speakers" as being my budget option. It has a notch for volume adjustment which is nice. But audio quality? Unsure. -- $399.99 "SVS Prime Wireless Powered Speaker System" (as they have a clear volume notch on the right speaker... but maxing out what I'd like to spend. Addition nooby things that I just don't know. Assuming a speaker doesn't have volume adjuster knobs easily accessible, are most speakers you plug into a computer controllable via a windows operating system setting? Like I really don't know, I've never operated a windows computer before this one and I've never bought a speaker for it so I need to know. If the above is true then I'm really tempted to get the top most option listed, if not, I'm probably gonna go with the BOSE option. But if you guys have any addition options I don't know of, I just need two computer speakers, Sub isn't really a need for me. Or rather, I won't get a quality and lasting one at my price range. I'm gonna say that my absolute highest price I'll go is $400.00 but I prefer to stay in the $250.00 range.