Search the Community

Hi guys! I have a complete build: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $189.99 @ Walmart CPU Cooler ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 120 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $64.97 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI B450I GAMING PLUS AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard $124.99 @ Amazon Video Card Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB TURBO OC Video Card $789.99 @ Amazon Case Phanteks ENTHOO EVOLV SHIFT Mini ITX Tower Case $109.99 @ Amazon Power Supply SeaSonic FOCUS SGX 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply $116.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1396.92 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-23 05:26 EST-0500 The problem I have: I see some (not really much) thermal throttling on my GPU. I have the phanteks fan intaking air in front-bottom, an Arctic F14 intaking on front top, and the rad exhausting at the bottom. I've set the clc to max out at 80% and the throttling eased up, but I still reaching 87 °C on the blower card with 100% fan. Could I ease this If I reconfigure the fans to go all intakes and full positive pressure? (Front exhausting is not a good idea in this case, becouse the panel reflects hot air back to the intake.) Should I try to ziptie a slim 120mm noctua to the top? I think the arctic fan is simply so strong, that steals air from my Blower fan. Or sould I just ditch the front-top intake, and intake only through the bottom, and let my Graphics card to be the exhaust? Or any other ideas? I simply love the look of this case, it fits my setup extremly well, and portability isn't too hard either. I just want to brimg down the GPU temps to around 80°C.

I am going to tokyo tommorow, where can i buy an nvidia rtx graphics card in tokyo? My parents will give me money everytime we go travelling so i decided to upgrade my pc.

Hey guys, so my rtx 2080 isn't running as fast as it should and I'm wondering if theres a problem with how it connects to my power supply. I have a single 8 pin plugged into my power supply and 2 8 pins plugged into my graphics card. Could this be my problem? Do I need to plug 2 into my psu and 2 into my gpu. Thanks!

Hey Guys!!! So Christmas is coming up, and I want to upgrade my computer again. I just recently learned that a single rtx 2080 can run GTA5 at ~100 fps. I have an rtx 2080 already and get about ~85 fps in GTA Online. Now, I have a monitor with a refresh rate of 144 hz, however, it runs into serious lag problems and tearing when it isn't at 144 fps. This means that 100 fps still feels like 30 fps. If I limit my moniter's refresh rate to something like 60 fps, the gamma increases for some reason ruining the look of my screen. (I know ways to possibly fix this, but I don't really want to run at 60 fps). So here's the delema... should I sell my current graphics card and get an rtx 2080ti or should I get another rtx2080. I also have another question. Could I buy a 2080 super and link it to my current (non-super) 2080, or would that not work. I had some trouble finding reliable information on this topic. I couldn't find any I'm willing to pay a decent amount of money, however I don't want to go above $1000 as that's my absolute max. I also have a ryzen 3900x. Should I upgrade to a 3950x? Ask me any questions as needed!! Thanks!!!

Hi, I've purchased a ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX2080-O8G-GAMING when installing, I can't get it to work and everything is quite laggy. Currently, the system recognizes it as a GTX 1180 when typing "lshw -C video" in the terminal. Tried the different drivers suggested in the system settings, without any luck. Tried several guides as well, and unfortunately Asus don't have any drivers for other than Windows. In "Additional drivers" it is listed as "NVIDIA unknown". In "About" I can see the Graphics as "Geforce RTX 2080/PCIe/SSE2". Thanks in advance.

So I currently have a 3 slot thick RTX 2080 from EVGA and I want to upgrade by adding in a 2080Ti and putting em in NV Link. The Issue is I only have 2 slots for the new GPU... So my question is: should I put an aircooled 2080Ti right above the 2080 blowing hot air onto it or should I sacrifice overall airflow and add in a water cooled 2080Ti?

Hi guys. Next month gonna get a new gpu... I want the bether performance for 1080p 2x msaa (and upgrade to 4k next year) and I want the gpu to hold atleast 3 years(preferably 5). I'm gonna buy the aorus gigabyte version... What should I go for. There isn't much to find on the internet about this

Hey So ive just bought my first ever gaming pc. Im having a few issues already. On two occasions today the monitor has lost signal and it seems the gpu fans have gone into overdrive. The computer is still powered up. Ive downloaded all of theIr latest GPU drivers, so not sure whats causing the issue? Im running a RTX2080 gpu, and an Acer predator xb281hk monitor. Can any help me please? Thanks in advance

I bought a Geforce RTX 2080 Asus Strix and I've been using it for exactly a month now, all of a sudden my screen turns black or just a blank screen with a random color whenever I click on something specific or if my mouse is hovering over a color. I can't launch games anymore and rarely this weird glitchy pixel effect stretches across the screen and then the computer would freeze up for a few seconds then goes back to normal. Games will crash upon launch and the screen will go black when I'm doing other things like going on the internet and sometimes it'll just go black when it's idle. Things I've done from the top of my head and from other peers: -Uninstall drivers and reinstall them -Place GPU in other GPU slot -Reinstall Windows 10 -Use DDU to completely remove any drives for GPU under safe mode and reinstall them -Reseat RAM and CPU -Changed power connectors on GPU Here's a pic from task manager whenever the GPU decides to freak out. My specs: ASUS MAXIMUS XI HERO RTX 2080 ASUS STRIX G.SKILL TridentX Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) RAM Intel Core i7-8700k NZXT Kraken Liquid CPU Cooler Corsair RM1000x PSU If anyone can help me solve this issue that'd be great, otherwise I'll just get this replaced from the seller.

Hi, I am building a new computer, and I don't got a lotta money, but I want RTX 2080. I calculated that I can afford a i5 8600k, but if I can get away with a i3 8350k, that would be great. Does anyone know for a fact that in even single core CPU and GPU heavy workloads, the i3 8350k will not bottleneck the RTX 2080? I'll be overclocking to at least 4.5GHz. if I can, then 5.0GHz. Not super urgent, but if you have an answer, please tell me as soon as easily possible. Thanks Note to everyone. This thread is solved

I am setting up a Deep Learning system with Nvidia RTX 2080 Founders Edition [non-Ti] on Linux (Most probably Ubuntu). The purpose is obviously to train Deep learning models. I don't plan to install windows or games as of now. I am looking for some advice for the best components that will work well without bottlenecking the GPU. In future I may add one more GPU, so would prefer a mother board with 2x 16 PCIe slots; even if I add NVMe M.2 SSD in future Below are my thoughts, please advice me with a better idea: 1. CPU Selection: I am thinking of Ryzen 7 2700X 8 core 2. Mother board: As it will depend on the CPU, assuming Ryzen 7 2700x which is the best mother board? Is Gigabyte X470 Aorus Ultra a good choices. What are the other best candidates ? 3. RAM: I heard that some RAMs are optimised for Ryzen 7 2700x. Is this true? what are the best candidates here? And what are the factors that I should consider when evaluating this? 4. Cabinet/Case: What are the best candidates here? Which are the cases with a good airflow design? What are the factors that I should consider here? 5. Cooling: As I am not planning to overclock my CPU or GPU as of now; can I just go with the stock fans of the CPU and case? Is water base cooling necessary for the stock settings of this GPU/CPU

Hey everyone, overclocking noob here! In a few days I'll be the proud owner of the following setup: i7 9700K Noctua NH-U14S Cooler Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro motherboard Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 WINDFORCE 8G Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 32GB RAM Samsung 860 EVO 500GB M.2 Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750w Fractal Design Define S case The PC will be used for both gaming and video editing. Since I'm a total overclocking noob I'm wondering what settings I should be using or should be able to use in my BIOS. I'm reading stuff about 5.0Ghz, which looks promising. But is that even possible with the Noctua cooler? Or should I have gotten an liquid cooler such as a Kraken? I did watch this video, but it's still a bit abracadabra for me. As for the graphics card, are there settings I should look for, or should I just leave it like it's coming right out of the box? Thanks in advance!

I'm planning to buy a PC this year and I am having a tough time trying to figure out what motherboard to buy. I will probably use optane to supplement a 2TB HDD for mass storage with a 256 GB NVME boot drive (All my games go into the HDD). For the display it would be an ASUS 32" XG32VQ 2k 144Hz Curved monitor. I won't be able to use freesync but its the only one available that has a 2k 144Hz resolution, and curved as well. For the CPU and GPU it would be an 8700k or 8086k (depending on availability) and RTX 2080 along with 16GB of RAM. I don't see myself upgrading any of it in the future besides adding another HDD. I would be using a wired connection. I would overclock the system. Use case would be Gaming and Productivity with Gaming being used more often. With all of these in mind I would like to ask the following questions: 1. What Motherboard would be best for this setup? (I'd use a case with a side panel so it being presentable/rgb would be a point for consideration) 2. Is going for 3600Mhz ram a must? or would the 3200Mhz variant suffice? 3. What cooler would you recommend? 4. I would like to take advantage of the high refresh rate, would an RTX 2080 be the right choice? Or should I just go for an RTX 2070 (Future Viability is my main concern). Thank you for your time and please just tell me if some parts are confusing to I can clarify.

Just finished my first build in 10 years, and I'm pretty satisfied with the results all things considering! Pan video here. Glamor shots coming soon Specs from PCPP Below. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor Purchased For $329.99 CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Purchased For $24.99 Thermal Compound Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste Purchased For $5.85 Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Purchased For $207.99 Memory G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory Purchased For $249.99 Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive Purchased For $150.00 Storage Seagate - Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Purchased For $0.00 Video Card Asus - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB Turbo Video Card Purchased For $789.00 Case Cooler Master - MasterCase H500M ATX Mid Tower Case Purchased For $189.99 Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Purchased For $69.99 Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit Purchased For $189.99 Monitor Acer - Predator XB1 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor Purchased For $598.80 Keyboard Corsair - K55 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard Purchased For $39.99 Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2846.57 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-24 19:34 EST-0500

Hey guys, with 2080 ti prices pretty much stuck at $1600 I'm considering running two 2080's with nvlink but I haven't seen any benchmarks for the two cards at 3440x1440. Wondering if any of you nice people that had access to two 2080's would be willing to run a couple of benchmarks. Also if you have found 2080 nvlink benchmarks for 3440x1440 already drop a link please! Thanks in advance!

Currently there reports of failure and manufacturing defects in RTX. Has this been resolved completely? Is it safe to buy one? I am planning on getting a RTX 2080 - Asus Strix version. Any suggestions is much appreciated.

I have gigabyte Windforce rtx 2080 but bf1 50fps max settings cpu i5 7600,8gb ram 2666,ssd860evo 500gb, what do i need to upgrade?

So the whole Deb8aur, Jayz2Cents, and Gamer's Nexus wank fest got me thinking about the problem of condensation when going for sub-ambient, and eventually sub-dew point temperatures. My idea has two parts. The first is to seal the motherboard and the gpus in separate coolers, ice chests, and extract as much water vapor from the air as possible using a separate cooler and a "getter" aka desiccant. The second idea is to exploit the fact that you have higher flow rates than the other guys and put your radiators in a dry ice + isopropanol bath. Let's start with the GPUs. Take a cooler cut openings for the following: four feedthroughs for the two water cooling loops. a feedthrough for two PCIE extension cables two feedthroughs for power for the GPUs a feedthrough for a fan controller or just to run cables for fans a feedthrough for a humidity probe. The first cooling loop will cool a set of tubes lining the interior of the cooler. The purpose of this loop is to cool the air and condense the moisture in the air. This loop will use ethylene glycol and will ultimately run at -10 C. Obviously you'll need to drop the temperature in steps. In addition in the bottom of the cooler add a pound or so of Drierite desiccant in a fine mesh laundry bag (or more for that matter this stuff is amazing). This will also pull more moisture from the air as well. Note the desiccant can be reused, just heat it back up and put it back in a glass jar (let it cool before putting it back yeah I've thermal shocked a container). The fans are to help prevent moisture from collecting on the GPUs while you're bringing down the temperature of the cooler. The loop running over the gpus will be using water. When you make a change in the temperature of the gpu cooling loop you'll need to make changes in temp to the cooler cooling loop. Also you'll have to "bake" the gpu in the cooler. That is to say run it under load. I was thinking a similar setup as well for the motherboard. Perhaps flip the motherboard upside down so that if there is any condensation you'll have gravity helping out. Ok for the dry ice and isopropanol bath. So figured you'd have one chiller for the primary loop so the sequence for the components would be something like: chiller, pump, radiator 1, CPU ice chest, radiator 2, GPU ice chest, radiator 3, and back to the chiller. The radiators would be place in the bucket of dry ice + isopropanol which should get down to... around -77 C which isn't bad. Also this approach let's you progressively make things cooler. So you can step down your chiller from let say 20 C down to 4 C in a measured way. Then perhaps put one radiator in a dry ice bath. Oh by the way don't immerse the radiator: fitting will contract and leak. All the while you can measure the humidity and take care not to bone everything... in a foolish haphazard way. Alright so the idea pretty much is that you crank up the flow rate as high as you can without rupturing a fitting. Custom cooling is a bit like HVAC. In such a system you either change the coolant, up the flow rate, and/or change the efficiency of your heat exchanger. I don't like the idea of changing the coolant from water to ethylene glycol. Water's specific heat is something like 4.186 J/g C while ethylene glycol is half of that at something like 2 J/g C which is crap. Which means you may boil it. Which means thermal break down cause it's an organic molecule. Which mean yucky plugs and catastrophic failures. Water may boil. I was thinking about this. But then you'd have do stuff like making "candy canes" and have a phase separator bla bla bla bla. Just don't boil the water. I'm pretty confident you'll be able to regain some dignity and post a respectable score. Materials of note two ice chests 8 feedthroughs (4 for each chest) Take your pick 1/2 NPT connector, aka bulkhead fitting (that's what folks in my lab called them), with two NPT to barb adapters or some combination 4 PCIE extender cables. Good thing you know the maximum length you run these things Unclear as to how to feed the power for the electronics. If this was an ultra-high vacuum system I'd buy a feedthrough flange of the correct diameter and type (CF btw ISO can go to hell). But since this isn't a UHV system, are you really going to mill out a billet of aluminum or hunt down a used vacuum chamber?, figure a piece of pvc piping and calk the cables in place. A spool of 1/8 inch copper tubing. So this is for the piping runs for the secondary loop inside the ice chests. Yeah the whole straighten the tubing so you can bend it. OR another idea is that you use some more radiators. So you run your flexy plastic tubing from the barb to the radiator to another to another etc. then hook up the return. Ethylene glycol... aka anti-freeze. If you were to put prestone into one of my lab chillers I'd drop the chiller on your head and make you drink the liquid (j/k but I would be really annoyed cause I'd be the one who'd have to clean it up). So if you can't get ethylene glycol then yeah you can use antifreeze just make sure to clean it up afterwards... kind of a duh no kidding thing... like not dropping stuff Figure if you go the radiator route and you're using one of your 10 liter chillers you're going to need roughly 4 liters for 8 radiators, roughly 0.7 liters for 6 meters of 12 mm ID tubing and 10 liters for your chiller. Call it 25 liters. humidity probes... figure at least two Thermal couples... figure A LOT so figure at least 6. Oh foam insulation for the lines and duh zip ties Take your pick either vaseline or rubber eraser putty to protect the pcb or both for that matter, oh will need a brush if you go the greasy way Dry ice! LOTS OF DRY ICE. So figure you'll need another couple of ice chests. 99% Isopropanol figure 50 liters, roughly 16 liters per bucket * 3 buckets which btw is roughly equal to buying all the isopropyl alcohol from all the drug stores in a 50 mile radius. Oh and 25 pounds of Drierite desiccant. If you have money to burn you can get the indicating type (blue means not saturated white means it is ooooh). Or maybe you can get them to sponsor the video and get it for free. Or for that matter get ThermoFischer Scientific to sponsor the video and get pretty much all the lab supplies for free. A stupid number of fans. calk pvc piping Some viton o rings wouldn't hurt teflon tape Anyways this is totally troll bait but meh whatever. I hope you actually try this. Despite those guys saying it's all in good fun they do have a bit of smirk when they dig on Linus. So it'd be nice to His Royal Spazzness just clobber them. Cause De8auer would then go off the rails and bust out the LN2 which would be HILARIOUS. Steve would have to cut his hair off in shame (probably wouldn't and if he did he'd loose his super powers). And Jay would just old man grumble and go back to his double wide and pound some beers... j/k... he wouldn't have to walk that far to get a beer.

Asus seems to think that supporting new hardware isn't important. After numerous others and I encountered an issue where two RTX 2080Ti's or RTX 2080's together fail to POST when both are enabled. Several forum threads have found the same issue, to no response other than "clear your CMOS" and "check your psu" from Asus which had no effect for anyone, in the last several weeks. https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1074074/asus-zeneth-extreme-x399-rtx2080-sli-not-working/?offset=10 https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?96162-Zenith-Extreme-bug-report-form https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?105105-Code-0E-Load-VGA-Bios One of their support agents went as far as to say that it's not supported because it's not on https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socketTR4/ROG_ZENITH_EXTREME/RZE_Devices.pdf?_ga=2.162430392.527285745.1539026443-891392033.1492966352 saying: "There is no listed stability with two 2080ti cards" "You can visit the support page to confirm when the BIOS is released." "I regret that you spent that amount of money [name]. Please await our confirmation to ensure that this works. You could've contacted us before hand to check but I sincerely regret the experience." Other users have had similar issues, where Asus support is entirely uninterested in helping with this issue, with no resolution whatsoever. It seems the ROG Zenith Extreme (and specifically that board) is incompatible with Turing or Volta multi-GPU configurations, with Asus uninterested in resolving this. People building HEDT systems or upgrading should be careful and avoid this platform, both due to the incompatibility and the horrible customer support.

When I alt tabbed from desktop to the game I experienced GPU artifact for the first time. Is this sign of my GPU dying? My GPU is 2080 and only a year old. I remember when I alt tabbed back to the game at first the game looked normal for half a sec until I saw red horizontal bar which caused my monitor to restart itself, after restart artifact appeared. I was able to recreate it after trying multiple times and here are the pictures- When I alt tabbed back, the game looked normal but with this random red horizontal bar Then after my monitor restarted itself I got GPU artifacts Alt tabbing back to the desktop sometimes ended up no display output to monitor or randomly fixing GPU artifact.

I need help i just got my second monitor and i dont know how to use it actually.I want to have this one as my main game monitor and the other one fort like youtube netflix and other things.I want the 2nd to be on the desktop but when i open up something i want it to pop open on that monitor only . I dont mind seeing the app on my main on the taskbar buyt i want to fullscreen it on my second only how do i do that ?

PC Part Picker List Here I watched multiple videos for different parts of the build process, including LTT’s “No Dollar Wasted PC Build Guide” and Bitwit’s “How to Build a PC! Step-by-step”(more helpful and more in-depth, sorry LTT). Some of the mundane steps were the more difficult and confusing, funnily enough. Like finding the case bag with my screws and everything, because the case manufacturer hides it in the hard drive tray, and screwing in an additional case fan with all of the parts in and trying to hold it up while screwing it in. Some precise parts were also tedious, like figuring out which way to align the front panel connectors and other small tasks like that. This cheap(ish) case actually had pretty good cable management, with holes throughout the inside to route cables through, and that didn’t take long. Looking back, this was any easy(ish) first build, and it turned out well. Nothing super complicated like custom water cooling for my first time, although I’ll look into this in the future. As of yet, I have not been able to successfully overclock it, except for applying XMP for my RAM (my GPU is factory OC’ed). When I tried overclocking my CPU, using Ryzen Master and/or the BIOS, I kept getting blue screens until I reverted all the settings :(. Overall it is definitely fast enough though, and I get around 120-144 FPS depending on the game (COD MW, Overwatch, R6, etc), which is good because my monitor is 144hz. I would definitely say this was an expensive, but worth it first build. I forgot to add that I made sure to have enough RGB, and will add more when I do custom watercooling. I’d estimate that the RGB adds at least 15fps, maybe more . FullSizeRender.mov

I want my gpu to be cool as possible what fan speed should I set and on what temperature?

I have some corrupt files and I cant update windows , how do I fix it ?

What case should i buy , im playting warzone currently and im getting around 76C . I want the number to be lower and safer. I have a rtx 2080 gigabyte, i7 8700k.