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I have a lot of doubts. I have a rog Swift 27" 1440p/144hz for 8 years now and I want a decent upgrade. (34" max) First thought is AW3423DWF but it’s OLED and I’ve read that it’s requieres a lot of care. I mean, I have a black desktop, I can hide the icons and the bar. I browse twitch and play games for 2-3h then I leave for another 2-3h so could enable the auto turn off screen, then play for a couple hours more. After that, I turn off the PC and the píxel refresh stuff runs while monitor is on stand by. All of that would not be a problem. That's what I understood. Also, is it hard to calibrate? Do I have to enable the HDR in Win11 settings or it will auto pop up when a game can use it? Do I need to touch anything in the nvidia control panel? That's my first thought, would cost 1000€ in the official website. Second thought is the LG 34GP950G-B, not OLED so no worries here, worse HDR, understandable. That would cost 1200€ in Amazon (third party vendor) Are there better options? Tips or tricks? Thanks

I want a pair of new displays, 1440 or 4k, and I'll buy two of the same ones so that, hopefully, colors are the same, brightness, and all that jazz, with minimal adjustments needed on my end. Some help with finding or suggesting any that are Vesa certified. A pair of arm mounts that I have are rated for 75x75/100x100 and can carry up to 22 lbs/10kg. I would like to have OLED for that HDR and contrast, but I understand there is the possibility of burn-in and other nasties that can come with that. I still prefer it over everything else, but I hear that mini LED is also excellent, so I haven't done much looking into that if I am to be honest. I do plan on doing a split of content creation and gaming on them. I haven't given much thought about any curved displays, slightly just worried that there wouldn't be enough room for two of them plus my case as I will not put my case on the floor. I'm leaning towards 27", possibly, and have just been browsing through them, but just kind of don't have the reassurance just to pin one down.

OMG! LG did it perfectly! The HDR is perfect, no washed out like Asus did on ROG Swift OLED PG42UQ. The default profile preset is already good. The only I change at the moment is disable the Power Saving mode. In short summary, Perfect HDR preset, no washed-out issue. Perfect games optimized mode. Consistency brightness when set as PC mode, no ABL kick-in. The curve 50% just nice for productivity. Unbelievable great sound, not like my LG C9 which sound terrible. Great screen coating use, it still glossy but well blocking the reflections. The cons Freaking heavy! No idea why they need revert to flat when you power off or they return to standby mode. This seems increase the bending if you use curve always.

First Impression It really big, this is my biggest monitor ever and this already push to my limit of acceptance monitor screen size. The good thing is I finally can set 100% scaling in 4K resolution monitor. The display quality is gorgeous, vibrant and pop, deep black and awesome HDR performance, finally no blooming and halo effect issue like mini LED. (with condition you set the correct settings and input) OLED weakness that never bothering me and you may no need to worry about it also The less than 200 nits in SDR - never an issue, I only set brightness 45 with uniform brightness on and it is already very bright under normal fluorescent tube light turn on. Matted surface - I always prefer matted surface as it can block reflection light behind you. Text fringing issue - it looks absolutely sharp as the fringing is very minimal and hard to notice. (must use DP 1.4 connection for Windows) Issues on this monitor HDR Temperature issue - you only have two options in HDR - 6500 and 10000 and the switching always make the screen very dim when using 10000 temperature and you need to re-switch in between for back to normal. No such issue when using temperature 6500. HDR output quality - it still looks a bit not right in Windows 11 and also macOS under productivity desktop, no issue in gaming or video. Screen Move - the way Asus implemented is kind of wrong compare with what LG do, no extra pixel for the movement and instead they cut the output a bit. HDMI 2.1 issue - Below is issue I face in this monitor, my card is RTX 3080. The OSD show VRR control on or off (adaptive sync) instead of G-sync Compatible and this will lose the G-Sync Compatible certificated. VRR Control on - badly stuttering in gaming, it is nearly unplayable in most games. No issue when using DP and it is showing G-Sync compatible on off instead. Text Fringing badly - the output is not sharp and bad in Windows 11. No issue in my MacBook Pro 14" (2013), I believe due to macOS did not using RGB pixel alignment for text. This issue is not there when connect using DP 1.4 under Windows 11. HDR output look weird - the gamma and tone mapping seem weird; it looks darker than it supposes. The HDR output is brilliant when using DP 1.4 The Best setting on this monitor DP 1.4 connection only for Windows. HDR Temperature 6500 only. Uniform brightness on - this makes the screen output uniform. Screen Move off - if you don't want image to get cut off, but this may also prompt to burning. I decide off it as not using very long period and I believe it is not that easier to get burn especially I only set 30 brightness with uniform brightness on in SDR. Above impression is based on firmware V037, mine is preloaded with this firmware which is higher than Asus provided at website of V033. ROG Swift OLED PG42UQ | ROG Swift OLED PG42UQ | Gaming Monitors｜ROG - Republic of Gamers｜ROG Global (asus.com)

My display is getting dusty and I would like to clean it, but if I recall correctly using water is a huge NO (I read it somewhere) So what do you use?

I know that IPS has natural colors, good viewing angles and yet there is no flicker that strains the eyes. I have a Huawei P Smart 2018 phone and in stores it says that it has IPS TFT, LCD TFT or that it is just IPS and it is not known which screen it has. Are these screens very similar that there is no difference? More and more phones have OLED or AMOLED screens that tire the eyes and make them wet. I don't like it and prefer IPS screens. The most important thing for me is that the screen does not flicker and then has realistic colors.

Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I just got the G3 yesterday and side by side with my C9, I can't tell the difference. Some of the GUI text seems to be a little brighter, but that's about it so far. I've tried streaming some 4K Dolby Vision stuff on Netflix and Disney Plus. I know it's compressed and everything but I thought I would be able to see some kind of difference. So far I've paid $4,000 for slightly brighter text and some vertical lines on the right side of the screen. Is there a particular demo I can run off a USB drive or something that really shows the difference?

Hi everyone! I currently own a Dell S2721HGFA monitor. It's a 27" 1080p 144Hz 1500R curvature VA panel monitor. I want to add a second monitor to my setup and was considering the Alienware AW3423DWF, but I might not have enough space to have both monitors side by side on my desk. So as I see it, my choices are - Use the Dell as a vertical monitor with the Alienware as my main one. I am worried here about the curvature causing issues when vertical. Buy a different flat screen monitor for the vertical setup and use the Dell as my main one. Of course, here the issue is that my main display is limited to 1080p and is a VA panel. My main use cases are gaming(FPS like Halo, CoD etc) + watching Movies/TV (like a boatload of these) + work & productivity. Additionally I am very worried about burn in on the Alienware, is there any way to ensure this doesn't happen? I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks!

So I have a setup that gives me a normal monitor and desk setup. And I will be adding on the other side of the room (albeit a relatively small room) an LG C2 OLED to play games on a TV. I'm seeking a 20 FT+ HDMI 2.1 cable but when I've looked for these I've seen reviews about them downrating to 4k 60Hz instead of 4k 120Hz on these "cheap" cables. If anyone could find a reputable 20-25 FT HDMI 2.1 cable that'll actually give the rated spec I'd be in your debt. I've found some but none seem trustworthy from the reviews I've seen saying they don't work at 4K 120 Thanks in advance TL;DR: Seeking HDMI 2.1 that is 20-25 FT long and isn't a scam and can actually produce 4K 120Hz video at that distance

In my old monitor I could easily tell you if I was playing at 60 or 120, anybody can, it's such a difference But right now I've been playing at 4k 60hz (GPU limited) and I swear on my life I can't tell it's 60

I feel like I'm being too extra careful for no reason, but I'd like to confirm with you guys, I'm doing the following: Enabled a bunch of OLED care options Pixel cleaning once a day Turn off the TV if I don't plan to use it for over 5 minutes Turn it off for like 15 minutes after a few hours of usage Am I being over the top or is this the type of stuff that I should do? I just don't want burn-in

TV: LG C3 42" 1) Taking YouTube as an example, why does watching HDR content looks way much better on the TV application than on the PC (windows 10, enabled HDR) 2) Do I have to do anything special to display perfect HDR in Windows 10? 3) When using Game Optimizer, why is my "Game Genre" greyed out? (I've disabled AI Genre option, so that is not it) Tagging some peeps from similar past threads: @Shimejii @RONOTHAN## @Stahlmann @BuzzingBee @Alex Atkin UK @leclod @kirashi

Hi. So I just got my new Alienware DWF Oled monitor, and I am noticing som weird artifacting in light transistions from dark to light. Where there seems to be bad uniformity. This seems to happen in most instances where there are similar transistions in brightness. Im not sure whether this is Windows 11/My amd 7900xtx or the Screen itself. Anyone having this issue or had it fixed? Am I just dumb? Thanks for any reply There is no picture that can accuratly show this, cus it seems it only happens in moving elements and dies down when freezing the screen(taking a screenshot). Again you might not see it, or only slightly. Just imagine those lines beside the video in a very exaggerated way.

I'm using the lg cx and while browsing the settings I found the black level setting. auto defaults to high but I tried low and it looks fantastic. but the thing is that my pc is using full RGB (or something like that, anyway the "correct" setting should be high), and I used this website to check if high is the correct setting and it is. is it that I just have shit taste or is there something about it? it's not that the image is better, the high black level gives me super washed-out images when playing dying light 2 at night, and the low black level fixes that (basically on high black level which should be the correct one dark rooms look grey. low black level looks dark as it should be) I'm honestly just confused if I should leave it at low or if that's a mistake.

Hi guys, I have found a great deal on a LG OLED C1 65 inch and TCL 6r6 75 inch for the same price. Which one should I get? I know the TCL may get brighter but no mini led tv can beat the inky blacks of Oled. At this point I really dont know, and going to the store to look at them doesnt help because of the lights. I don't care about the OS they use cause I always use my apple TV. I watch tv in a dark environment which pushes me towards the LG but the bigger size of the TCL is also appealing. Helpppppp I willl choose whatever the majority chooses LG C1 Screen size: 65 inches Resolution: 3,840 x 2,160 HDR: Dolby Vision, HDR10, HLG Refresh rate: 120 Hz Ports: 4 HDMI 2.1 (1 with eARC), 3 USB Smart TV software: webOS G-sync and Free-sync TCL R646 Screen size: 75 nches Resolution: 3,840x2,160 HDR: HDR10, HDR10+, HLG, Dolby Vision Refresh Rate: 144 Hz Ports: 4 HDMI, 1 USB Audio: 2 (10+10) Smart TV Software: Roku TV Free sync

Today I was about to pull the trigger to buy an LG C2 48" and use it as monitor, but I hesitated because I began to think about the actual OLED monitors out there... Why would you pick a monitor instead of a TV? (or viceversa)

I have some weird issue with fullscreen HDR. If I launch some games into fullscreen with windows HDR enabled i can get a few brief seconds of great picture: and then it does this: Is this some sort of Bandwidth issue with the built in display? I had installed a newer intel driver and it still did this, but right now I'm running on an older driver because the newer driver would cause the pc to lock up if the magnetic keyboard put it to sleep. Specs: Windows 11 10.0.22621 Vivobook Slate T3300KA Pentium Silver N6000 RAM 4GB Intel UHD Driver version 30.0.101.1273 Monitor hardware ID MONITOR\SDC4169

Hey guys, cant wrap my head around this. when i play cyberpunk on my monitor i get nice smooth gameplay with around +-60 FPS when i play with exact same ingame settings on my OLED TV , FPS drop to around +-45 so why is there this difference, should be the same cause i didnt change any ingame settings how can a external device have impact on my INGAME FPS ? for both Gsync is active and working 3900@4.3Ghz RTX 2070 Super OCd 32GB Gskillz MSI MAg x570 TomaHawk My Settings

do I need to switch the picture settings to game mode if I want vrr? I currently play on standard mode because it is brighter and I prefer how the picture looks overall. will I need to switch picture settings just for VRR? P.S. I know that the ps5 doesn't support vrr yet for some stupid reason

Hi guys, I've been considering buying new laptop I really liked Asus vivobook pro line with OLED screens. Never had any device beside smartphone with OLED screens so I'm curious if its common thing in other types of devices. https://www.asus.com/Laptops/For-Home/Vivobook/Vivobook-Pro-15-OLED-K3500-11th-Gen-Intel/

So first of I have a 55" LG OLED 55CX TV which I use as my main Display for my Desktop PC right now. It is OLED and 120Hz with Nvidia G-Sync so really it's awesome. Since I have now experienced OLED in Games I won't go back to something like IPS and will only settle with OLED which means that this is more about knowing what's out there currently and what's planned to come out in the near future. In the Future I wanna get a Steering Wheel setup so I'd probably want Curved for that tho I have never tried a Curved Gaming Monitor. So what I'm looking for in particular is: between 27 and 32 Inches if flat Panel, 32 and more if curved at least 120Hz of course Has to have at least Nvidia G-Sync, I have an RTX 3060 GPU btw. would be cool if it supports AMD Freesync Premium aswell at least 1440p but would prefer 3840 x 2160 aka "4K". only care about HDMI 2.1 or alternatively Displayport (2.0 ?) would also work since I'd just adapt it to HDMI 2.1 since my GPU only has DP 1.4a x3 would like to have a USB C PD port which can provide at least 65W of power so that I could plugin my HP Envy with one cable and also charge it other than the USB C PD port I don't care about a USB Hub or other gimmicks only care about height adjustments Companies I'm avoiding for Displays: MSI Razer Acer Dell HP Budget is 1200 CHF max, this won't be the Samsung Neo G9 or a LG OLED 48CX so yeah. Has to either be directly available from the manufacturer who sells in Switzerland, through amazon (Germany) or my Consumer Electronics Shop of choice: https://www.digitec.ch/en

Hi, I need a new TV for my living room. After a long research I need to make the final decision between the A84J 65"(OLED) or the X94J 75" (LED, Full Array). Their prices are very similar, I would choose OLED if it wasn't for the large viewing distance of 3.8m (12.5ft) and the risk of burnout. For a long time I didn't have a TV so I don't know what is more important in this situation, image quality or size?

Heya guys, first time posting but couldn't think of a better place to ask about advice in his matter. My wife and I will be moving into our own apartment soon, and we're looking to get a new TV for the living room. Requirements are: Be OLED Support HDMI 2.1 (we own a Playstation 5, so at least one port would be good) Between 55-65' in size From looking at past videos on the LTT youtube, I think Sony, LG and Samsung TVs are dominant in the market. So if any of you got some good recommendations, I'd love to hear them. Have a wonderful day, thanks for reading!

Hey there, I'm currently deciding if I want to get the LG C1 (OLED65C17LB) or the Samsung Neo QLED QN90A (GQ65QN90AATXZG). I don't use sound at all as I have external speakers, I don't care about any features that I can think of really, I just want the best image quality I can get for this price. But now the question is: What is the best picture quality for my situation? I'm mostly using the TV in a dimmed room to watch movies or to play some games, around 2 hours a day. Now most people would tend to the OLED because of the low light situation, but is the worse color accuracy and missing HDR10+ support worth the trade-off for the good black color? (I'm a complete noob here, so this sentence might not have made any sense.) All help appreciated!

Ok, so I have a B9, but I think WebOS is more or less the same across the OLEDs. The firmware may have differences in power state management. I run an RTX 3070 to a Yamaha Aventage RX-A4A to the OLED. Obviously, I do this through HDMI. This occurs with or without a receiver in ARC or passthrough. Based on what's happening, I would believe it happens regardless of audio setup. I have the quick startup feature of the OLED ON. I put music on through the receiver while I sleep. When I turn off the TV, no interruption in sound happens. Exactly 5 minutes later, the TV changes modes, and I'm assuming it's going into deep sleep or its "off" state. When this happens, the display and audio configuration changes, and Windows cuts the audio temporarily while it does this. It comes back. It's not really a problem. It just startles me every time.... TL;DR How do I either make it so that it'll just do the interruption when I turn it off (not ideal, probably turning off the quick start would do this) or just never interrupt by not going into deep sleep. Personally, I'm not concerned with the fairly minimal power usage. I'm running an Aventage class amp all night while I sleep... I expect that if it's possible, it's in the service menu somewhere. I try not to touch that, as there's a lot I don't understand in there.