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Hello community, it's my first post and I need some help with my new build. The Motherboard will be ATX Gigabyte X570 Aorus Ultra. The Case is ATX Antec P82 Flow. I'm wondering if I have enough clearance for a Noctua NH-D15SE-AM4. The RAM I have in mind is the G.SKILL Trident Z 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4-3333MHz CL16. I'm new to this whole pc building thing and this is pretty much the last step I need before I complete my first build. Help is appreciated!

So I recently picked up a Factal Meshify C (linked below), and am looking to do a 6 fan configuration with Noctua's pictured and linked below. My motherboard, pictured and linked below only has 4, 4 pin connectors from what I could find. Does anyone have a remedy for this situation, or is there something I'm missing? Links: Case: https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/meshify/meshify-c-tempered-glass/Black/ Fans: https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-pwm-chromax-black-swap https://noctua.at/en/nf-s12a-pwm-chromax-black-swap Motherboard: https://www.gigabyte.com/ca/Motherboard/X570-GAMING-X-rev-11#kf

Hi Guys, If I have a NH-L9a AM4 and want to switch to Intel does anyone know of its possible with some new mounting hardware or would I need to buy a new Intel version?

To be honest, the were and are really cool with everything orange in the box. Do you think, they should come back? When you buy it, it feels like a Merch!

So, I've watched both of the LTT videos about if AIOs or air cooling are better. But, I have noticed that they are missing the fact that a lot of other people make air coolers and AIOs. So, it seems as if this is more of a Corsair vs Noctua video, rather than an air cooler vs AIO video. I know it's impossible to get every single aio/air cooler, but I am confused that they decided to give a "final answer" while just comparing 2 companies' coolers. So, this makes the whole AIO vs air cooler debate pointless because it depends on the AIO. For example, the Arctic Liquid Freezer II outperforms the D15/U12a, but the D15 or U12A beats the Corsair 360mm AIO. Probably because Corsair AIOs are probably made for aesthetics only. So, does this make the way these videos concluded kind of flawed? Or does the point still stand for some reason. And I'm talking about pure performance and noise, not something pointless like the ease of mounting unless you can't mount the cooler. Idk, it seems kind of pointless to give a "final answer" if they only tested 2 companies making the same type of cooler.

I recently purchased a noctua NF-F12 PWM from a 2008-x batch. This fan was extremely noisy, vibrated quite a bit, and had overall a lot of motor noise over the turbulence noise (which is apparently because of the fin design.) I contacted Noctua for a return/replacement, and was sent a new fan. The new fan no longer has the almost sinusoidal sounding tone coming out, but it's still extremely loud in comparison to even cheap stock fans. The motor noise is incredibly prevalent. I'm considering returning my order through Amazon, since I purchased there. I'm rather disappointed. Any opinions on what's going on here? Did I just get two defective fans, or is this just how Noctua fans are? Fan 1 is a Snowman PWM 120mm 1500rpm from their Snowman cooler. Fan 2 is a Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm 1500rpm Fan 1 (Snowman) is on the cooler, with the CoolerMaster stock mount for the Hyper 212 Evo Fan 2 (Noctua) is freehand (in my hand by the edges) I appreciate any input. CHECK YOUR VOLUME BEFORE PLAYING snowman-noctua side-by-side.mp4 snowman vs noctua .mp4

Hello I bought an ML350 G6 from HP Server. But now it is very noisy and cannot be used in the office. So I bought Noctua NF-A9 PWM fans. But these are now 4 pin fans. How can I convert them into a 5 pin fan? Attached is the 4-pin fan and the 5-pin fan from the server. Thanks

Hi, I have a Thinkcentre that uses cheap bearings that are louder than the CPU fan and hard drive. Would it be safe to replace the 80mm fan with a noctua 4 pin fan and run the Power off the motherboard header? If the power supply got too hot wouldn't it shut down? It's a basic i3 system doing mostly excel and web browsing. Lenovo sent a replacement PSU from a different company and the bearings are even louder than the first. Meanwhile a Dell 3470 that this was supposed to replace has a quieter 60 mm PSU fan so it's just Lenovo using inferior parts in my opinion. I replaced the CPU fan with a low profile Noctua cooler and it's silent. The Hard drive will be replaced with a SSD.

Want to OC my Ryzen 5800x and instead of buying a $200 water cooler to replace my NH D15, I want to find another, less expensive way of improving cooling performance.

I've had my H500M for a year or two now and the 2 200MM fans on the front have both developed a pretty annoying bearing rattle. I've done a bunch of research and found that Noctuas won't fit due to the fact that they're 30MM thick and the slot only has 25MM of clearance. So, I'm wondering if I would just be better off replacing the 200MM intake fans with 3 140MM Noctua fans. The stock fans weren't that great out of the box and they're a 3 pin fan. I know I'll lose the RGB, but if I miss it, I'll just stuff some LED strips in the case. In terms of noise/airflow, do you guys think I would be better off buying more of the OEM 200MM fans or going with the 3 140MM Noctuas?

Build Log: Illya v2.0, The Tiny Titan Good Evening LTT! It's been about 7 years now since my first ever personal rig build--since then I've graduated, started a job, built hundreds of PCs as a side-job. With all the changes and growth I've gone through all these years, I've decided to put all I have learned into this machine. The main guideline I have for this build is: Build a small, compact desktop that deceptively outputs performance inversely proportional to her size. Illya version 2 will be a high-ish end desktop that is still built around the mITX Mobo form factor. However, in contrast with her first form (a mid-tower mITX Prodigy), I've decided to follow the way of the SFFPC--I shall attempt to place all this raw power into a sub 20-liter case. After months of looking for such a case that can also house a triple slot 3090FE--I finally found the answer: Sliger's SM580. I need Illya v2.0 to handle my tech hobbies and real life work: 3440x1440 +100FPS Gaming, Blender 3D renders, Editing my photography (Lightroom and Photoshop), and Unreal Editor (both v4 and v5 now). In my early years, I've always been wary of watercooling--"Oh another point of failure" or "It'll leak all over," I thought. I even held a sort of disdain for it in my first build log here on LTT. After a good half-a-decade I started to pivot from this view as I started my full time job and subsequently a part-time job building custom PCs for clients. AIOs are pretty safe, some even have great full-PC replacement warranties to boot. Plus, if I'm trying to cram in all this performance in a 15.9 liter case, water is pretty much the only way to go. In summary/tl:dr: Combine a 15.9 liter case (SM580) with an RTX 3090 and an old i7-8700k @5GHz on all cores whilst trying not to make this baby burn. ******************************************************* Illya v2.0's Parts List ******************************************************* Case: Sliger SM580 (Dual Acrylic Panel version) CPU: Intel i7-8700K (Delidded and Liquid Metal'd via Silicon Lottery) GPU: Nvidia RTX 3090 Founder's Edition CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken Z63 Motherboard: AsRock Z390 Phantom Gaming ITXac RAM: HyperX Predator RGB 32GB @3600MHz Boot NVME: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB M.2 NVME Main Games NVME: Crucial P5 1TB M.2 NVME Auxiliary Games SSD: ADATA SU800 2TB SSD Data Storage SSD: Samsung 860 QVO 4TB SSD Radiator Fans: 2x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM Intake Fans: 2x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM PSU: Corsair SF750 PSU Cables: Custom made by DreambigByRay (Etsy) ******************************************************* Updates Below: I'll update this as I go. I'm just having fun taking it slow and steady. I'll add updates below as well like my last build log. See you in the next update! Update #1 [11/30/2020] Photo Op and Test Fit with the RTX 3090 Update #2 [12/04/2020] Custom PSU Cables and Vinyl Wrapping the SM580 Update #3 [12/21/2020] Meet The Components Update #4 [03/18/2021] Retroactive Build Process Part 1 (RGB-ing the Noctuas)

I know that there are cheaper coolers with better value, but just answer the question.

Hi, I have a 80mm noctua nf-a8 flx 3 pin and wanted to use it as a power supply fan as my existing one the bearing makes a weird noise. I connected it with the adapter below and no fan spin. I thought hmmm maybe it's the fan but then I connected my noctua cpu coolers 4 pin 92mm fan and it wouldn't spin either. I then connected a old coolermaster 120mm sickle 120mm fan and it ran fine? Also I noticed though the coolermaster sickle flow claims 19 db when connected to the motherboards 4 pin header the noctua is noticeably louder even though it claims to be 16.1 db? First I noticed someone said the polarity may be backwards on the adapter in the reviews now but how would that work? Noctua is not following the color coding of the cables? The red and black part of the noctua 3 cables match the ones on the 3 pin to pin adapters. I'm really confused. Is it the adapter or the design of the Noctua fans that's the issue? Audio of original fan attached for reference Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B083CRN5L6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title 20210110_203359.mp4

Following is gonna be my new build Case - COOLER MASTER Masterbox TD500 MESH MID TOWER Processor - AMD Ryzen 7 5800x Motherboard - Asus rog strix b550 f gaming Gpu - galax 3070sg Power unit - coolermaster 850 80+ gold Storage - crucial p1 1tb Hdd - WD 5400 rm 2tb Ram - Gskill ripjaws V (16x2) 3200mhz Cooler - noctua nhd15 I want to know how to stress test the cooler temps the gpu and cpu Which software to use Please give suggestions

I've been watching LTT for a long, LONG time... well not really, but for at least 3 years. During that time I went from living in rental homes to owning and living in a fifth wheel travel trailer, so I held off on building my first PC. Once I was settled in, I decided it was time to upgrade from my 2014 MSI laptop. My space, although not insanely limited, does not lend itself well to large form factor builds with custom water loops. I opted instead for a custom cabinet mounted set up with air cooling. Components were chosen mainly based on price, compatibility, and intended use. I went with what I considered to be fairly middle of the road components as I don't do heavy online gaming or streaming. I did want a safe storage system for the multiple TBs of movies, music, photos, and personal documents I've acquired over the years and opted for a raid 6 array. I hadn't really considered posting this build anywhere so I didn't take a bunch of photos during the building process. I started with a cheapo computer case to ensure components were functional before starting any real installation. If anyone wants any additional information on specifics, I'll be more than happy to accommodate with photos and explanations. Possible issues still to be addressed are cooling (resolution for now is leaving a cabinet door open) and the low end TCL TV that came with the trailer. At the time of posting, I am formatting the raid 6 array and the 2nd M.2 SSD is en route courtesy of Amazon. Primary uses are light work at home, offline gaming, watching movies, and data storage. Let me know what you think/what you would do differently. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Radar416/saved/ZQ2cTW Mobo: Asus Prime x570-P CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 GPU: MSI GTX 1660 Super 6GB (hindsight would have chosen an Asus for easier RGB integration) RAM: G.Skill Trident RGB 8GB (x4) SSD1: Samsung EVO 960 1TB M.2 (Windows 10 Pro OS) SSD2: Samsung EVO 960 Plus 2TB M.2 (Steam Library) PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower iRGB Plus Platinum 850 Adaptec 8805 Raid Controller Seagate IronWolf NAS 8TB HDD x6 Odds and Ends: Modular power supply cable extensions, disassembled Chinese test bench frame, remote power button, USB 3 extension cables, Noctua chromax fans, and a metric (colorful expletive) load of zipties.

Sup guys. I have a question i need to ask. Can i fit a Noctua NH-D15 in the Segotep Halo 6 case? I was unable to find a list of dimentions for the max width of the cooler for the case.

How good will my octua NH-D14 with dual fans be? i have the worst coolermaster (cheap $25, so cheap it doesnt screw on just click into holes) with one fan and im rolling 60-80 on my I5-5600 (65W) Im hoping to stay in 50-70 range on the new I7-6700K with the DH-14. I know i could get a 7700k with my chipset but i don't overclock and don't care about the tiny CPU increase im going to be GPU bound anyway My I5 is going to be another server

Hello everyone, it's been a while since I bought an air cooler for a pc, and since I'm giving away to a friend my old i7 6700k plus mobo (Asus Z170 Pro Gaming), I need a new one for him. Before I used a NZXT Kraken x52, but since he's not a very pc expert I want to give him a more user friendly solution. The case will be a Corsair 275R Airflow, and ram will probably be the cheapest Crucial Ballistix on Amazon IT. I'm thinking about a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition or a Noctua NH-U9B SE2. Are they any good for an i7 6700k? Maybe in the next future I'll overclock it for him, not too much (from 4.00Ghz stock to maybe 4.2-4.3). Any suggestion? Under 50-55€ possibly, MAX 60€. Thank you all!

So, new guy here. 11.11 is about came, so I planning to upgrade my old stock HFS on my 775. Roughly for a month(since10.10) I was thinking to get a slim and low profile HFS. after I went throu site by site and forum by forum, i found 1 that i really like it. Noctua NH-L9I. A slim and low profile HFS that mainly used by mini itx users that prefer a tiny pc desktop. As i put the item on my bucket list, i began to search tutorial of installing this guy(NHL9I) on my old pal(775). but i found out that this HFS unfit to installed on 775, even with bracket. my question is, does anyone knew some tutorial to install safely or a bit of mod so i could use em? thanks

CPU: 3950x, about to upgrade to 5950x with Noctua U12A, D15S wouldn't fit with a 200mm fan on top and the CPU socket is too close to the top PCIe slot, so not enough clearance for GPU. Mobo: MSI X570 Godlike, only AM4 mobo with both SLI support and the correct PCIe spacing for the 3090s Memory: Recently changed to G.skill FlareX 3200mhz 2x16 CL14 (will post updated pics later), oced to 3800mhz 16-16-17-16-32 with ryzen dram calculator. FCLK is at 1900mhz Storage: WD SN750 500gb, Crucial MX500 2tb sata, WD4005FZBX 4tb HDD (featured in recent LTT video) in the hot swap bay GPU: 2x Asus TUF 3090 non-OC, same price as founders edition. Waited overnight with a friend at Canada Computers, he sold his to me at MSRP. Case: Cooler Master HAF XB Evo, also featured in the same recent LTT video PSU: Corsair AX1200i Platinum, it was the most powerful psu in stock at my local CC 2 Noctua 140mm A14 PWM fans in the front, 120mm S12A PWM at the back, 200mm A20 PWM on top. Had to use zip ties, fan wouldn't fit with the standard mount. Optical drive is salvaged from some acer prebuilt from 2008, didn't plug it in yet but looks nice. Using a Samsung RG90 ultrawide, 5120x1440p 120hz .

Where i live (Norway) Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black goes for 95 USD and be quiet! Dark Rock 4 goes for 90 USD. Is there any major differences i should keep in mind when i choose between these two? Does anyone have experiences with any of these.

Okay guys I have a riddle for you. What do you do when you want to upgrade your GPU, your SSD, your CPU cooler and get a third monitor but you only have money for a GPU? So let me explain. I have a 3700X with a GTX 1080Ti and I'm running a 1440p 165hz panel as my main gaming monitor and a 1440p ultrawide as my secondary (do stuff and watch movies on) monitor. As many of you I got drawn into the RTX 3080 hype as well and I set aside the 700$ (or in my case cuz third world country 900EUR) and preordered one. Well best indications showed that the earliest it would arrive would be mid-november so that got me thinking and I did some research. Yes the 3080 is substancially faster than the 1080Ti (duh) but it's not AS fast as I expected it to be at 1440p. The difference as far as I understand is between 50 and 75% which while a lot still ain't the 2X we were promised. I also started thinking about how I need a third monitor because 2 ain't enough for my workflow and on top of that I only have 1TB of storage which after installing a few games fills up pretty quick as you might imagine. I was thinking about going all out and spending a ridiculous amount of money on a third 1440p monitor + a 3080 + an SSD + a Noctua NH-D15 but then common sense struck me. Wait a minute I can get everything I want (sorta) and not spend my entire lifesavings on it. So.. you ready for the solution to the riddle: Instead of getting a 3080 I ordered a 25` 1080p 240hz Alienware monitor which obviously will give me a sizeable performance boost, I'll move my previous main 1440p monitor and use it as a third monitor while still being able to play games on it if I ever feel like it AND I have money leftover for both 1TB NVME SSD and a Noctua NH-D15 to replace my noisy Wraith cooler. Stuff is coming in tomorrow and I've already kinda made my mind up but I'm still super curious to hear from you fellow nerds: Was this a big brain move or a dumbass move?

Hey, So last night i exited bios and when my system restarted i heard pop and all my fans stopped working, and right after my room filled with burning smell from something electronic. After bit of disassembly i found out one of my 5 noctuas smells really bad and this is the outcome i found when i broke it open today. Out of my 5 IPPC noctuas i had 3 of them are now broken and 2 survived which is really weird. And this one i have pictured is the only one that smells/burned visibly. i did not open the other 2. Recently i did add Arctic Case Fan Hub to my system and all the Noctuas were connected to that hub so not sure if it had something to do with this outcome. These fans are now over 8years old and used in gaming computer with relatively low rpms. What do you guys think happened and has this happened to anyone else?

Budget (including currency): $4,000 USD Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Peripherals aside, anything else I'm missing or should be weary of for my Noctua themed build? Planned Build CPU: Intel Core i9-13900K = $659.99 CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12A = $109.95 Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z790-F GAMING = $419.99 Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 = $239.99 Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 (x2) = $359.98 GPU: Asus Noctua OC GeForce RTX 3080 10GB = $999.99 Case: Corsair 5000D AIRFLOW = $164.95 Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 1000 W 80+ Gold = $194.02 Additional Case Fans: Noctua A12x25 PWM 120mm (x7) and Noctua A14 PWM 140mm (x2) = $283.26 Total = $3,432.12 My fan setup includes 3 120mm front intake, 3 120mm side intake, 1 120mm rear exhaust, and 2 140mm top exhaust.

I have a spare Noctua NF-A15 and i want to try to paint it white. I'm aware of the risks of painting as related to balance and weight, but I have access to a professional paint booth setup and supplies through my job. HOWEVER I am not going to try to do this unless i can take it apart safely and I'm not going to wing it unless someone with expertise can tell me how to do that, I don't want to ruin this thing. It doesn't seem to pull apart like the case fans do. How do take apart NF-A15?