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  1. Hello there fellow people of the inter-web! I'm slowly putting together a new build together to upgrade to in the december 2017. Here's the lay down for the parts I have reconsidered. Seeking advice, gimme your guys thoughts. I'm unsure on the storage for this build, I want an SSD but I don't know what will work. Not looking for anything big just 120gb nothing more. I currently have a regular one terabyte hard drive that i want to pair with it for backup storage. Also looking for a good liquid cooling system, idk if this one will work (I put the one I researched for my build here down below) (power connectors wise) I'm unsure. Anyways Thank You!!! This will be running three monitors thanks!!! (Budget isn't a issue) Motherboard: MSI B350M Gaming PRO AM4 Micro ATX Motherboard Processor: Ryzen 5 1600x Power Supply: Coolmax Power Supply ATX 600 Power Supply Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SSC GAMING ACX 3.0 Storage: ??? Cooling: MasterLiquid Lite 240 Liquid Cooling Case: Rosewill - Micro ATX Mini Tower FBM-01
  2. Introducing the B-Tech Arctic computer case! At only 5.2 liters of internal volume, it's one of the smallest ITX cases with full-length GPU support on the market! (That's right, smaller than the RVZ03 or even the Sentry case!) The Arctic case achieves a stunningly accurate "console aesthetic" look thanks to it's glossy plastic exterior construction, ample vent holes, and clean, screw-free external design, including on the back and bottom! But just because your computer looks like a console doesn't mean it should perform like one! That's why Arctic supports full-length GPUs and comes standard with built-in liquid cooling! It even includes a built-in 1500W DC power supply (2x compact 750W AC bricks), with future battery-pack expansion planned! But it doesn't end there. The Artic isn't called "Arctic" for nothing. It's got built-in sub-zero cooling capable of handling over 550W of total system heat dissipation! That means your system could be cooled down to 0° C FREEZING even at LOAD! And if you don't want the extra power consumption and noise, you can simply swap the Arctic A/C Block in the loop out for the regular Radiator Block, thanks to our custom designed quick-swap fittings that allow detaching parts of the cooling loop without draining! Sign up for the mailing list here! For progress updates and to be notified when our Kickstarter Campaign goes live! But of course, you need photos! Here are some 3D renders. These are NOT proof of concept renders. They are taken using the real model, not a striped-down version missing internal structure or interconnects. The Arctic Case in Glacier White. The top intake is a custom designed ~100mm RGB 4-pin fan. The final design will also have a backlit logo on top. The case can be opened quickly and easily thanks to the innovative magnetic-latch system, which sends power and data for the LED illumination through magnetized contacts, making the case side-panels totally wire-free. Arctic Case in Cobalt Black: From the side, you can see the 360° addressable RGB LED ring. A non-slip rubber pad with an intricate pattern lines the bottom of the case to give it a two-tone look. From the front you can see 3 of the 8 individually controllable 4-pin exhaust fans. A/C units connected to the watercooling loop with a custom copper heatsink block are positioned behind these to achieve CPU/GPU temps BELOW ambient! And did I mention there's a flipping TURBO BUTTON!? You'll also notice there's no power button. That's because it's capacitive! To turn the system on, simply tap the left-front area of the case. Of course, you're probably also wondering how on earth we're controlling 10 independent 4-pin fans (including the pump) and over 70 zones of RGB lighting... Well, existing 4-pin fan splitters are not able to control fan speed independently or even report individual fan speed, leaving you with no way to ensure your fans/pumps are still working properly, not to mention they're way to big to fit in a case this small, so we decided to come up with our own solution. Introducing the Arctic Control Board! Able to control 12 independent 4, or even 3-pin fans with per-fan auto-config and per-fan RPM control. Plus, it has RGB lighting control, capacitive touch circuitry, A/C cooling control, case-open detect, and even front-panel IO! Front IO: 1x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0 2x Reassignable HD Audio Jacks RGB Illuminated Capacitive Power Button w/ Adjustable Sensitivity User-Configurable Turbo Button (Mechanical MX Blue-like Switch, because why not) What's Included with the Case: The case. Obviously. Custom 1500W PSU (98.5% DC-side efficiency, not cheap!) w/ Dual (also custom) 750W AC Power Bricks. Pre-assembled copper CPU & GPU water loop. Universal CPU waterblock. Dual thermoelectric A/C radiator units. 8x 60mm side fans, 1x slim ~100mm RGB intake fan. 64 pixel 360° addressable LED ring. Dual-channel smart RGB controller & 12-channel 3/4-pin PWM driver with per-fan RPM feedback. And, if you don't want to build a system yourself, pre-built configurations featuring delided 7th-gen Intel i7 CPUs, ASRock Z270 Motherboards, NVMe SSD Storage, and watercooled NVIDIA 1060, 1070 Ti, or 1080 Ti GPUs will also be available, starting at only $920! We already designed and tested PCBs, prototyped proof-of-concepts, and part-fit tested with cardboard, foamboard, etc. But we're not there yet! Here's what still needs to happen: Plastic case prototype, More part-fit testing. Refining pressure-fit and screw hole sizes based on material properties. Kickstarter video! Building an epic system in the thing! Once we've done all that, we can launch the campaign to gather funds for entering production! Current estimated launch date: Mid-February, 2018. Sign up for the mailing list here! For progress updates and to be notified when our Kickstarter Campaign goes live! B-Tech Arctic. Compact Liquid-Cooling for the Masses!
  3. Not really sure what the best liquid cooler is in comparison to the one i wanted to buy. I was planning on getting the Corsair H150i Pro XT for either a 3700X/3900X based build, don't know which one i'm going to get as of yet. soo, to all 360mm AIo cooler owners, whats the best option? p.s I am going to replace the current fans with Corsair LL series fans, so yeah.
  4. As the title says, my 3600x sounds like its preparing for take off when I play overwatch, 2700 RPM at 49 c in speedfan, but in bios it said it was at around 60 (obviously not while playing OW) so who really knows. I'm on a bit of a budget, I'd rather not spend more money on this damn box right now. I'm in Vancouver Canada, so everything is more expensive. Can anyone recommend me some solutions / a good AIO that will keep my PC quiet and cooled for a reasonable price (100cad) It's been a while since I've built a pc, so quick question: Is it possible to use older AIO coolers for intel cpu's like i7 4770ks on the 3600X AM4? Because I have a corsair AIO sitting in my old build. Build: Thermaltake corev21 microATX asrock b450m pro4 microATX Ryzen 3600x with stock cooler DDR4 3200mhz Corsair Vengeance LPX C16 GTX 970 STRIX (temporary card, soon to be 1070 in a HOT minute) m.2 500gb
  5. I have an Asus Maximus VIII Impact and it came with a fan extension card. I have NO idea how to use it? Most of what I find is unclear, and there is no review or how too videos on the card. Good topic for Linus to go over, please let us know about the product on youtube.
  6. Ok so I recently bought the EK-Coolstream-PE 120 radiator for my cooler master N400 and it it didn't fit in any of the radiator slots so I was wondering if the NZXT H440 razer case would have enough space to fit this rad in it's rear. Also I checked the width of the rad and it said 130mm so I think it didn't fit in the N400 because it only fits 120mm fans. So if that's the case I want to know if it would fit in any other mid or full tower case. Another thing is I have a 240mm aio for my cpu and the ek rad is for my gpu. Ps. First time posting in this forum and first time trying out water cooling.
  7. Hello all, I made my first build last year, and as a graduation gift to myself, I picked up a GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 980Ti 6GB G1 GAMING OC EDITION (model: GV-N98TG1 GAMING-6GD) as the center piece for my rig. I have truly loved my machine, but I have been having an itch to work on it again. There is a part of me that really wants to try my hand at liquid cooling, and I have gotten the impression that from a performance stand point, liquid cooling your GPU has a greater impact than liquid cooling your CPU. (Yes, I know this is super dependent on what your doing with the machine) The problem is I don't really know where to go from here. I know that you can't just throw any water block on the GPU, as the same model GPU can differ depending on where you bought it. I have tried doing some research, but I thought I may take a shot in the dark, and see if anyone on the forum happens to have a good suggestion on the best way to do this. If anybody has a suggestion, I would love to hear it, let me know if this is even possible, or if I need to look at entirely other options. All suggestions welcome. My Full Build: CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz CPU Cooler: Hyper 212 EVO Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z7X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: G. Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory (planning on replacing these soon to match the color scheme of my machine) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250 GB Video Card: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 980Ti 6GB G1 GAMING OC EDITION Case: Corsair 750D Power Supply: Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze OS: Windows 10 *Feedback on my build is also welcome, as this was my first build, I'm sure there was plenty I could have done better (be gentle)
  8. So basically, my motherboards usb ports crapped out, so I have to get a replacement (or alternative) and rebuild the whole rig. I've also decided to get a new case, maybe you guys can help me decide the best parts for rest of build as well. See below to see current setup, I'll put (NEW) by the stuff I can still send back and potentially replace. My goal is to basically just build a superbadass pc that will last me a few years without needing to upgrade anything except GPU. So if you guys see an opportunity to spend A LITTLE bit more for something higher performance, please let me know. Speaking of GPU I really want the EVGA ftw hybrid 1080, just waiting on amazon to stock them. Current Setup: EVGA 1000 watt platinum PSU Amazon Page (PSU) NZXT Phantom full tower Case Page CD rom no one cares about Noctua fans blah blah Samsung 850 Pro 512gb SSD Page Asus x99-a ii Motherboard (USB ports failed) (NEW) Mobo Page MSI seahawk gtx 1080 (Newish) GPU Link I7 6800K (NEW) CPU Page G.Skill Memory (NEW) RAM Page Corsair H115i CPU liquid cooler (NEW) Cooler Page Setup I'm considering: 1)Corsair Carbide Series Air 740 Cube Case 2)ASUS ROG STRIX x99 Gaming Motherboard Motherboard Page 3)Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm AIO Enthusiast Liquid Cooling System New Liquid Cooler (ANY BETTER SUGGESTIONS FOR 360MM CLOSED LOOP RADIATOR?) Now for my reasoning, please correct me if I'm wrong or anyone has better suggestions. 1) Definitely getting new case to be more compatible with radiators, I had to hang my H115I with zip ties... 2) Thinking about swapping boards just because it seems like the x99-a ii have QC issues more then the other ASUS boards, and I DO NOT want to assemble my pc again to have something stupid fail within 3 hours. I really like the OC socket on ASUS boards so I'm going to stick with them. 3) Thinking about getting a new water cooler B/C corsair link was using 10% of my cpu (BF4 only uses ~%40), even after restarting my pc Corsair Link was still using anywhere from 7-15% cpu just running in the background (note I was idling on desktop with no programs running), after reformatting my PC (LOL!) it fixed it... for now. But makes me reluctant to stick with corsair, and I BELIEVE that I will have better cooling performance with the 360mm thermaItake system. In closing, I would REALLY appreciate a recommendation on best X99 motherboard for stability and OC capability, I could care less about most of the extra features. Also, I'm after the BEST closed loop 360mm or 280mm radiator. Sorry for the mess, I bolded a little here and there to help. Thanks a million to anyone who contributes! UPDATE: After more research and watching some in depth reviews, I decided to just get the new case, and upgrade to x99 deluxe motherboard, mainly because it has better heat-sinks, the fact that I had bad luck with the a ii, and hoping it has better build quality and/or QC. With the rest of the money, I want to upgrade storage performance, do you guys think I should invest in NVME drive or just get another 850 in raid 0. I'm open to any ideas/suggestions, thanks in advance!!
  9. Is Corsair H100i v2 will handle overclocking with the i5-6600k?
  10. Heya! So im building my first PC in H440 case with H100i AIO and I just wanted to make sure the airflow is optimised. So I am going with Black/white theme so i cant put the H100i on the top. I am thinking something like this: If i put the AIO in the front as an intake with 1 120mm stock fan below it (also intake) and as an exhaust i would have 2 120mm stock fans on the top and 1 140mm fan in the rear. That way the air moves naturaly and therefore it has optimized airflow, i hope.. Now i know that the AIO will be putting some hot air in but does that really make that much of a difference? I mean the 1 stock intake fan will surely make a difference right? Thanks cor the anwsers! EDIT: In the future im thinking of buying Noctua F12 as an intake and put that stock fan as an another exhaust.
  11. Is it worth it to buy liquid CPU cooler from amazon and so which one? And how do i know it is reliable and wont leak and kill my computer
  12. So this is my first Hard Line build attempt ever, I'm using all EKWB parts except for the back rad which is a alpha cool one the PC cost me about $6000 Canadian to build and took me about 50 hours combined to get right , I'm pretty damn happy with the results here are the specs: i7 5820k @ 4.5 Ghz ASUS GTX 980Ti SLI 1500/4000 overclocks 32GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM @ 3000Mhz ASUS X99 - A II Motherboard 256Gb Samsung 950 Pro NVMe SSD 256Gb Samsung 850 Pro SSD 2x 1Tb WD Black HD EVGA P2 1200W Power Supply Corsair 600C Case Liquid cooling components: EKWB X-Res 140 Revo D5 Pump/Reservoir Combo EKWB EK-FC TITAN X GPU Waterblocks x 2 EKWB Supremacy EVO CPU block EKWB FC Terminal EKWB SE 240mm Radiator EKWB SE 360mm Radiator Alphacool 120mm Radiator Darkside Fittings Darkside tubing Mayhem Pastel White liquid Finn All pictures were taking with a Canon T3i ( 600D ) with a Sigma 18-200mm 3.5-6.3 lens ( I have no other lenses right now )
  13. Ok, here's the deal. I want to liquid cool because -its quieter then using all these fans -looks cool -my gpu's and cpu runs about 60 degrees C with a mild load and about 80 degrees C with a load But i'm questioning doing it with these cards because I wanted a true full cover block for my graphics cards and no company in the world apparently makes a full cover block for the Geforce 970 ACX ssc+ (04G-P4-3975-KR) (except for oc cool and that's not even a true full cover block) I wasn't planning on liquid cooling my pc that's why i got the cards I did. so I guess i'm stuck unless you guys have any suggestions...? I want to just start over and start a new build but after putting $1,800 into this build I don't want to just throw it away. If i could sell it i would and just start over but who's going to buy a pc like this for $1,800? This was my first build and I learned ALOT from it. I realize now that I was just going for functionally and not for looks when i was buying the parts. in my opinion this is ugly. BUT i guess what i'm asking is do I sit around see if some one will buy my gaming pc? i just don't know what to do... has anyone had any luck on ebay selling? or am I just crazy wanting more. This setup works I guess just not pretty.
  14. Hello, I have finished building some desks and now I can start picking up a new case.It should be optimized for Water cooling,because a Thermaltake Shark (I think its from 2005 or 2006 some sort of that time frame) wouldn´t be a great idea. So I have found following options,some doesn´t really fit my budget about 250 Euros,but atleast I can dedicate a bit more,if needed.I dont want to let like 500 Euros disappear in air : Corsair Obsidian 900D Graphite 780T Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG If you know any others that can fit about two 360mm Radiators minimum or other combinations,can you write them down for me? Thanks, TheRealN00b a.k.a. Früchte
  15. I have an NZXT S340 and was wondering what cooling options were the best. I would prefer pre-built loops like Corsair's or NZXT's. Just wanted to know what you guys think, my budget is around $100-$150. Any help is appreciated!
  16. Anyone here with EK Predator 240 AIO? I'm interested in your experiences. Thanks!
  17. So I looked around a bit and can't find anything about this. I am sure I am probably looking up the wrong search terms or just missing the posts... But anyway, please point me in the correct direction if I am adding a redundant thread... I will start with the TL;DR... Is my wet CPU still salvageable if I got to it about 9 hours after the fact? Is it a good idea to try a recently wet CPU in a new mother board when I get it (few weeks time difference) I thoroughly dried it and have it sitting in a bag of rice (kidding!) So I came home from work today to a computer that was very loud and my monitors would not show any sign of life. I turned it off, turned it on. Several times, and nothing. I reseated the GPU, nothing. I swapped the slots for the GPU, yup still nothing. Then I take a closer look inside my computer and notice that my liquid cooler (a horrible Raijintek Triton) had much less liquid inside of it than it should. I turn everything off, pull out everything and sure enough... That cooler just leaked in and around my CPU and the slot. It looked like an absolute blood bath (literally... I had red liquid in there.) I do have another computer on hand, so I started swapping parts that weren't touched by liquid (it thankfully stayed in the CPU and the CPU slot area of my motherboard until I started moving it around.) My GPU works great. My ram is fine. I just can't check my CPU because that was the most wet of the bunch. I am hoping that is the case, as I don't have the funds to replace both my board and my CPU, bills and such... If I do get a new motherboard soon, and try the CPU that was recently wet (this will be a few weeks from now.) And here I am, getting home from work. All I wanted to do was hop on WoW and play a little for the first time since Legion dropped, and instead I spend a couple of hours frantically trying to save as much of my computer as I can. Heh...
  18. Hi, made this post cause I got this mad idea. Wondering about if there is any other coolants that can go as low as -50C or lower before it freeze. I figured that ethanol can go as low as -114C. Is there any other liquids that can go as low as -50C? My idea was to connect my phase change to the loop through a cpu waterblock to cool the liquid. **edit** The phase change will go as low as -48C Any thoughts or ideas? Just a mad idea from a pc enthusiast... Also fully aware over that ethanol is higly flammable
  19. i am going to buy the nzxt kraken x61 but i want to change the ugly white fans because my build is black n red https://tweakers.net/gallery/755741/wenslijst/ so what black fans are the best and quiet to mount on the x61?
  20. Hello. I need your help on choosing an AIO liquid cooler. Preferably a 120mm rad and not a 140mm (Since my case does not support those, I may buy a new case though), at most 60$ and if it ships to israel directly it would be fantastic. Thanks. EDIT: I've looked a bit and the H55 and the H60 looks nice, are those good? And what is the difference between them?
  21. Hi all, I have an i5-4690k not overclocked. It is idling at around 113 Fahrenheit or 45 degrees Celsius. When playing any game the temperatures sky rockets to around 176 Fahrenheit or 80 Celsius. In bf1 on ultra it goes up to 90 Celsius. The GPU (GTX 970) barley goes above 40 Celsius. Is this normal and is it safe? It is currently being cooled by a stock intel cooler. I know it needs an upgrade. I was looking at the Arctic Liquid Freezer 240 - Cooler. Any reviews on it? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks all
  22. Im building a PC ( you can find the parts here: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/sx8Gcc ) and I'm wondering if any one can give me help to find parts for a custom water loop as its my first build. I would like it to cool the CPU and GPU, I'm also looking for a pastel colour and any other things I may need to put in the water eg, to clean keep it clean and things like that. If it can be kept around £300 or lower, I may be willing to spend more if the system I like the system, thanks.
  23. As you all here already know, Corsair has released 2 version of H60s, the first gen and the latest gen which are still in the market nowadays. My question is, is there any big differences between the 'old-but-gold' version of H60s and the latest gen of H60s? Not to mention the design. Thanks
  24. Okay, this seems really strange, but I don't want to mess with hard tubing. I was wondering if it was possible such that each soft tube was straight but could be joined together with angle adapters to create a neat look. Like for example: you have a long tube going up and then an angle adapter and then a smaller tube connecting to the rad Thanks
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