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Hello lads, A thought crossed my mind, What if I put Mineral oil inside a closed loop system, and frankly what I've found out on some older posts that my necromancy skill didn't allow me to resurrect, was astonishingly miss informed, I currently have an AIO, my system barely needs even that amount of cooling, so with some key points I'd like to point out, I'd like to discuss with some crazies that done/ want to do, some more unusual liquid cooling solutions. First things first let's dive down to some numbers: Specific heat of water is around 1 kcal/kg, and its viscosity is around 1 cP@20ºC, but let's be more realistic and place it at 0.9cP@40ºC, the idle temp of most loops. The specific heat of Mineral oil is around 0.4 kcal/kg, so it transfers heat at more than double the speed of water, so that fluffer that keeps saying in every single forum that I've visited that mineral oil is an insulating liquid can go plow a troll, it's viscosity is around 44cP@20ºC or ~15cP@40ºC, so it would require a larger than average pump to maintain a steady flow, but before you scream that at a minimum it's 15 times the viscosity, I'll say it now, NO you don't need 15 pumps worth to pull that liquid a single D5 per block SHOULD be ok. Next and for now last is 99% isopropyl alcohol With a specific heat of 0,6 kcal/kg, a viscosity of ~2cP@20ºc or ~1.6cP@40ºC, this is the fun part, Isopropanol has a boiling point of 80ºC@1atm, so theoretically he should vaporize with a random AMD'esque spike, pulling even more heat with his latent energy and even more heat if he becomes a gas since his specific heat is even smaller when in gas form, but there are many problems with isopropanol, main one being that he tends to vaporize in ambient temperature something that requires a whole post just how to deal with that. But now for the elephant in the room, that I haven't addressed, seals and o-rings, in short, I'll make a general rule for exotic liquids: EPDM (the usual run of the mill rubber seal): Water, acids and Ketones, grade A, against every other compound, DON'T TRY IT. NBR: A monster of a rubber, he's resistant against most forms of chemical attack, and he's made for oil like substances, just get ketones away from him. Some other words of advice, All acids will corrode all metal parts in the loop, and mineral oil will break apart PETG, Acrylic is fine for mineral oil, but I wouldn't recommend it for Isopropyl, it tends to stain and bloat, if you truly want a mad scientist closed loop I'd recommend glass tubing. The main thing I'd wanted to clear up was those god-awful "facts" about the properties of mineral oil, But do feel free to post crazy cooling solutions like vodka, or orange juice cooling.

I did something really freaking stupid for lols. I used an old corsair h60 120mm AIO I wasn't using to try and extract a certain type of resin from a certain type of plant I won't mention the name of in order to stay PG Anyways, I used a heat gun on the radiator to reverse engineer it in order to heat up the block. In case you were wondering, the h60 starts to smoke and leak at around 120 degrees Celsius. At least that's about how hot the top of the block was according to my temperature gun which isn't the most accurate, but tends to do well on black surfaces like that. It was pretty funny anyways. I totally should have been filming it. I knew it was going to blow, but I didn't think it would be at just over 100 degrees. It seems the margins are a bit tighter than expected. I figured it could make it to maybe 150. Who knows, maybe the temperature was that high in the coolant. Anyways, I figured I'd share the breaking point temperature for the sake of science. Oh, and the point of failure was the block itself so it would have all went right into the CPU socket. That's not what you want.

Hi all, This is my first time doing a custom loop and want to here feedback on what I am planning to do. My hardware has been all checked out, but loop order worries me. I know that the GPU creates the most heat. For aesthetics, I am doing a hard tubed loop and would like to cool the GPU first. My problem is that because my GPU will heat the liquid before it hits the CPU block, that it will start heating up the CPU to what the GPU is. What I am thinking about doing is installing a 120mm rad right after the GPU before the CPU, and then going to the 360mm rad and then into the res/pump. Is this a good idea? Or should I just try and cool the CPU first? I may have more questions in the future. Thanks all!

i have been searching online for literally months and i can NOT find an answer.... current build is a dual socket j Xeon X5450. lga 771. socket j. same thing. teh issue is that the ONLY cooling i could find for this socket was the stock heatsinks that came with dell precision t5400 computers. they are passively cooled. and my cooling situation works fine as it is now. but it will only work in the case i currently have and i want to upgrade my case.. but if i do thta, ill no longer have the channel in the case that directs air from the huge front fan through the case, through the dual heatsinks, and out the back of the case.. i would be fine with good active cooling heatsinks, but i prefer watercooling.. I can not find a complete system, a waterblock, or even an adapter, or even an equivalent solution.. NOTHING fits with this socket... does anyone know of anything i can use to get a waterblock on this system? preferably 2 seperate loops for the 2 seperate cpu's, but ill take a single loop if i have to.. other than me machining something, what are my options here?? any help would be amazing.. i have to be up in an hour for work. lol. not sleeping all night is GREEEAAAATTTTTT.. Hopefully i wake up to some good news.. goodnight my fellow geeks.

so i was reading about the amd fx 9590. then i also read it melts motherboards so i naturally had to buy it. now i have tested this thing and it does run hot as expected. my concern is the motherboard heat from what i like to call the hot spot on my motherboard. im open to ideas on a full custom water cooling set up and case modification. any input would be greatly helpful. thanks all!!! 970a gaming pro carbon with the bios update for 220watt corsair vengeance pro 2x8 2133hmz corsair vengeance pro 2x4 1600mhz msi 1060 6gb gaming x thermal take 240 water cooling rgb water 3.0 other parts msi 990fxa g65 modified antec h20 650 water cooler

What is the difference between the X52 and X52 Rev 2 because the stats that are listed are exact the same

Hey guys At the moment I am running two EKWB PE 360 radiators (The 40mm thick variant). I live in South Africa so getting your hands on liquid for your loop is a bit of a challenge so I'm thinking of doing a group import of some EKWB liquid with a couple of other friends to bring down costs. Just one very important question and I can't really find any info on this, just to make sure I order the correct amount of liquid can anybody advise me on how much liquid will I require for my two 360mmx40mm radiators and a 140ml Reservoir with a CPU and full cover GPU block. It comes in 1000ml bottles so will one bottle be enough?

Hello, I am planning to build my first PC and the case I am planning to use for my build is cooler master h500m. I won't do any custom loops for liquid cooling. What I wonder is whether the CPU will be better with an air or liquid cooler(I will use ml240r or ml360r top mounted, haven't decided yet). I want to use a liquid cooler as I prefer its looks over the air cooler, but I think in this case the air cooler will perform better, because the case has a good airflow. What I think is that I should set the liquid cooler to exaust the air from the top, this way I will have 2 front fans intake+LC fans exhaust+1 exhaust-rear, but then that air cooling the radiator will be heated up by the other components. My other option is to set the 2 200mm fans as exhaust and make the LC fans and the rear fan as intake, but then the GPU will suffer. 3rd option is to have the 2 200mm and LC fans set as intake and just 1 exhaust at the rear, but I am not sure if with this configuration there will be hot air trapped where the GPU is or the air will still dissipate, because of the pressure created in the case from the many intakes and it will quickly dissipate through the rear. PS: I am planning to overclock the components. I also don't want to mount the radiator at the front because the heated air by the radiator will go to the GPU and I want the GPU to be as cool as possible. Do you think I an air cooler will be better in this case, or using a LC as intake or exhaust? Thanks for you help and suggestions.

Hello there! So I have a CM Seidon 120XL with a broken pump. I haven't been able to fix it but for lack of time and money I hadn't bought anything new. Thing is now I do have money and am investing more time into my rig, so I had an idea: I can use the radiator and fans of my Seidon (which used to work GREAT) and get a cheapo pump, reservoir and waterblock from ebay (along with some tubing and fittings). Thing is, I remember Linus saying that one must never cheap out on the pump, though I don't really know what the drawbacks are (I'm experienced with pc's but this would be my first time doing a custom loop). Also, I think the radiator is made of aluminum, but the best waterblock I could find for cheap on ebay (link below), even though it looks made of aluminum, doesn't really say what it's made of. And one final question: does the tubing and reservoir need to have any specification? So this is what I've found: Water block: https://www.ebay.com/itm/A091-CPU-Water-Block-Arylic-Liquid-Cooler-Inner-Channel-For-Intel-Supplies-Unive/123420852419?epid=16024493722&hash=item1cbc74c0c3:g:Ug8AAOSw831bwDyL Reservoir: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acrylic-Cylinder-Reservoir-Water-Cooling-Liquid-Tank-G1-4-PC-Computer-Radiato/142788173379?hash=item213ed69e43:m:mZ5ul5zQN9VcZH_RNHV4lPA OR https://www.ebay.com/itm/G1-4-50x110mm-Cylinder-Reservoir-Water-Tank-PC-Computer-Liquid-Cooling-Radiator/323355215181?epid=20016475896&hash=item4b4979054d:g:XcYAAOSwdoJbTvV6 And about the pump I'm not sure yet, I thought about this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-G1-4-Thread-PWM-Silent-Water-Circulation-Pump-for-PC-Liquid-Cooling-System/323166707046?epid=7017135712&hash=item4b3e3c9d66:g:XywAAOSwo9ZatcWK:rk:37:pf:0 But I'm not sure yet and I need your advice. THANKS A LOT

Hello! I'm looking to build a water-cooled system, and I'm looking at using a 280mm rad (45mm thick) to cool my CPU and GPU (according to EKWB, this is enough and I trust them). I plan to use PH-F140SP_BBK fans for my build, and according to their site, they have 1.33mm/H2O of pressure. I know that it's above 1.00, but is it sufficient for the radiator? Thank you!

Going to be water cooling my rig with help with some friends what is the best fluid to use I know that Linus says water but what about everyone else

Ok I need help as the title implies. I recently bought a Vega 56 Video card at a VERY good price and just couldn't pass it up, However I didn't take the time to make sure I could liquid cool it, or if there was a full copper block I could get for it. That being said I have looked high and low for a cooling block (Copper), And I am pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the heck I can do to cool this beast and bring down both the temps and the fan noise. Do you guys have any advice? any links to a full copper block? or know where I can get instructions on cooling this card with an AIO? The exact model is: Sapphire 11276-01-40G Radeon Nitro+ RX Vega 56 8GB HBM2 Dual HDMI/DP (UEFI) PCI-E Graphics Card and the link to it is: Amazon Link

I'm writing this post to convince you dear reader that a liquid metal liquid cooled computer would be an exiting and suitably insane project for our cooling scientists at LTT to take on. The Why The thermal conductivity properties of liquid metal would be exiting to see in action in a liquid cooling loop. Imagine a heat pipe that extends all the way from the CPU/IHS to a radiator, but one that actually constantly circulates a cooler part onto the CPU. Mercury was my first thought but that is toxic and somewhat unsafe to handle so that's a no go (and not very attainable in larger quantities). But that isn't a problem at all since in fact the thermal compound alternative liquid metals are more or less alloys of Gallium, Tin and Indium and so they are safe to handle and readily available (in tiny quantities). The usable temperature range of these liquid metals is also excellent for this kind of an application. Only challenge is to get enough of the stuff to fill a loop with. The commercial liquid metals are mostly gallium so their specific heat capacities are around 0.370J/(g*K) (and at best since for example tin and indium have lower specific heat capacities) while the density of gallium is 5.904g/cm³ , so the relevant effective ability of the coolant to carry heat is 2.19 J/(K*cm^3), i.e. changing the temperature of one cubic centimeter of the liquid metal by 1 Kelvin takes 2.19 Joules. Water has the specific heat capacity of 4.2J/(g*K) and its density is 1g/cm^3 so the effective ability to carry heat per unit volume is 4.2J/(K*cm^3) and therefore the liquid metal's capacity to carry heat in the loop is lower by about a factor of two. On the other hand the thermal conductivity of liquid metals is outstandingly higher than water's: gallium has thermal conductivity of 29 W/(mK) though for example Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is stated to have a thermal conductivity of 73 W/(mK) and water's is 0.598 W/(mK). So gallium and Conductonaut are 48.5 and 122 times as thermally conductive as water, respectively. The exciting feature of such a cooling loop is the outstanding thermal conductivity making heat exchange at the blocks and radiators highly efficient. Especially radiators will be superbly effective for shedding heat from the liquid metal coolant. Issues/Challenges: Corrosion. The gallium in the liquid metal reacts chemically with both aluminum and copper. The reaction with aluminum is strong enough to destroy any aluminum it comes into contact with quite quickly whereas the reaction with copper is less destructive as the gallium slowly seeps into copper making an alloy. All in all aluminum is a total no go and copper could be and probably is suitable at least for a somewhat short term experiment. Luckily it looks like copper radiators might be available so maybe the metal parts of the loop can be copper. Second option is nickel which is much more inert for gallium and that's why liquid metal is comparatively well suited paste replacement between the processor die and integrated heat sink since IHSs are plated with nickel. Nickel plated steel or other parts could be an alternative for copper. Aside from corrosion another challenge could be the weight of the liquid metal for pumping since the liquid is around 6 times heavier than water. Though I'm not at all an expert enough to tell if this is even going to be a problem. Secondly the viscosity and surface tension properties of the liquid metal will be different as well but might be that they won't be problematic either. It might be that a larger stronger pump will solve these simultaneously. Lastly the pump can't have aluminum parts exposed to the liquid metal either. Some thoughts on execution: Plastics should be alright so regular tubing strong enough to handle the weight of the liquid would probably be fine? Clear tubing so we'd see the metallic coolant in action. For maximum insanity do hard line tubing made of glass, though this might be too big of an unnecessary complication for this project. Diameter of the tubing and the viscosity of the liquid metal could be something to consider, maybe thicker fluid requires larger tubing? The coolant is so thermally conductive that it would probably conduct some heat upstream as well in the loop so it would be interesting to see some temperatures measured form different parts of the loop the see whether this is a big effect. Shouldn't hurt the performance of the cooling loop too much I don't think. Increasing flow rate would help mitigate this. So what do you guys think, is this idea worthy of a video / build log? Did I miss any critical issues that make the project much harder? I'd really love to see this made into a video, is this the best place to pitch the idea? TLDR: Linus et al. should build a purpose built liquid cooling loop and fill it with liquid metal (Conductonaut?) and see what happens.

Hey everyone, so thanks to @ZeouLs I now have decided to get liquid cooling for my build. I have here a list of options for the cooling system, HOWEVER! I am extremely open to ANY suggestions that you guys may have. I have yet to buy the case so the sizing of the fans/system is not an issue at the moment. Here is the build I am going for with the Dark Rock Pro4 as the previous cooling system I was going for. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fcXG29 PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fcXG29 Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fcXG29/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $317.99) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: EVGA - Z370 FTW ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($170.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $89.99) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB FTW2 GAMING iCX Video Card (Purchased For $414.99) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($102.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $57.99) Total: $1442.39 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-11 10:28 EDT-0400 Here are a few with decent reviews and within my price range. I am trying not to exceed $140 USD unless it's that good of a cooling system. Corsair Hydro Series H115i AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 280mm Radiator, Dual 140mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019955RNQ/?tag=pcpapi-20 Corsair Hydro Series H100i Pro RGB AIO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWNWQKJ/?tag=pcpapi-20 EVGA CLC 280 Liquid/Water CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N16CAKN/?tag=pcpapi-20 Corsair Hydro Series H110i AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 280mm Radiator, Dual 140mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019955W7C/?tag=pcpapi-20 CORSAIR HYDRO SERIES H115i PRO RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 280mm Radiator, Dual 140mm https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting-Software/dp/B077G3C6HH/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1536674596&sr=1-6&keywords=liquid+cooling CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 240mm Radiator, Dual 120mm https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting-Software/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1536674662&sr=1-1&keywords=liquid+cooling+corsair DEEPCOOL Liquid AIO CPU Cooler, Captain 240 RGB, SYNC RGB Waterblock and Fans, Cable and Motherboard Control Supported, 240mm Radiator https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-240-Waterblock-Motherboard-Compatible/dp/B07175CYWL/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1536674662&sr=1-18&keywords=liquid+cooling+corsair EVGA CLC 240 Liquid/Water CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL24-V1/dp/B074WH52BW/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1536674740&sr=1-5&keywords=aio+liquid+cooling Thanks for any help!!

So how awful of an idea would it be to align AIO's in a fan -> rad -> fan -> rad -> fan -> rad -> fan configuration (4 fans 3 rads). I fully understand each time it passes through a radiator the air gets more hot. but the reason i ask is to make a SFF(small form factor) case with a ATX motherboard and 3 AIO 120mm loops.

Is it ok to plug my watercooling pump in cpu_fan instead of water pump since my motherboard doesn't support it? Thanks

Hi I'm gonna do moderate overclocking of an i7 4790K it won't be higher then 4.5GHz. Which one of these 2 AIO coolers in title is better for that ? Please advise . Thanks .

Hi, I am planning to build a gaming pc in the near future and I would like to water cool it. The thing is, I'm new with water cooling. I watched JayzTwoCents' video on the A240G and I am wondering if it would run well and get decent temperatures with my gpu and cpu. I am planning to get an AMD ryzen 7 2700X and an Asus Strix 1080 ti. I feel like I might need better water cooling for my gpu, but I'm not quite sure. Anyone know if that would work well?

Hey everyone, I recently built my first AMD system ever. I've been building and using Intel systems ever since the early i7s and they've always been air cooled. My build has an AMD Ryzen 7 2700X at stock everything except with my memory running a D.O.C.P profile of 2988MHz. This time round I have an NZXT H440 case with three front fans acting as intakes and the 240mm NZXT Kraken cooler mounted up top pushing air out the top of the case. For some reason my liquid cooler temps are always between 37-38C, my room is quite warm - rarely ever below 28C in the evenings. In Prime95 my CPU temps max out between 77 and 78C. Does this sound normal? Could it be Precision Boost 2 doing it's thing? I've definitely applied the thermal paste (using GC Gelid Extreme) and cooler correctly - as I'm not a complete system builder noob

Would it be smart thing to link AIO's together? I have 3 H55s in my PC(1 for cpu, 1 for each gpu) and was thinking about linking them together. How good or bad of an idea is this? The reason why i want to do it is so you would be able to see the fluid inside the loop for aesthetic reasons, and to also see if there isn't a performance benefit by doing so. The goal is to get the look of a custom loop without needing to buy all the pieces for it.

Hi, Plz suggest me the best liquid cooling for my new cpu i9-7960x My budget is around 150-200 usd

Anyone know of cold plates that work in laptop configurations? It's to my understanding that liquid cooled hybrid cold plates might be a great way to transfer heat out in a laptop, do any manufacturers exist?

Is it possible using liquid metal such as mercury and gallium to liquid cool the pc, replacing the water with liquid metal,. Does it work if no aluminium is in contact with the liquid metal.

Hey guys, I have built a few rigs over the years and have been using flexi liquid cooling tubes to cool my systems. I am now looking to going into hard tubing. I have been practicing with bends etc on some PETG tubing but now want to put my system together, its going in a thermaltake view 91, so plenty of space for a duel pump set up. My main reason for posting is, does anyone know where I can get a (and I know alot of people dislike thermaltake, but it has what I need) Thermaltake pacific M360 plus kit, in the UK. It has everything i need for the CPU set up, I would then buy separate parts and an EKWC block for the GPU set up. It just seems a bit strange, being in one of more tech savvy countrys that its hard to purchase a tech product.

Ok, so I just rebuilt my rig today, and everything has run fine. except for my CPU and cooler 1st on fan wouldn’t spin, then I got that working but the idle temperature was being listed in BIOS at 89 C at idle... the fans kicked up as if it was running that hot but it definitely isn’t. It’s physically cool and at POST I either get fan error or heat error, stopping me from booting without any problems... Specs: RAM: 2x8gb DDR4 Corsair Vengance LPX 3000MHz CPU: i7 8700k manufacturuer clocked at 4.8GHz PSU: Corsair HK850 semi modular GPU: 1060 6gb Motherboard: ASUS Z370-P Cooling: Corsair H100i