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As the title says, im planning to buy a laptop for 3d rendering and animating. As far as the currency exchange goes from myr to usd for my budget, i prefer it to be around 600-700 usd. Also willing for second hand. I don't need it to be too smooth, just to operate without crashing frequently. As far as my concern for battery life is i just need it to be able to stay alive for at least an hour.

So um, maybe I f*cked it up even more? One of my relatives had this laptop and he gave it to me to try repairing it, it had blinking orange light at the battery Icon and it was not turning on, it has an integrated battery so the laptop has an external reset pinhole, when I held it down for a couple seconds and tried powering it on again the orange light did not lit up anymore and since then its still the same, not giving any type of signal. I took the laptop cuz I knew if its a battery problem I just order a new one and thats it, but now idk what should I do

As the title suggests, I need help choosing a windows laptop for my partner. My budget is sub £1000 ideally around the £600-700 range. As my partner needs to take their laptop to lectures, being relatively lightweight would be good. It will mainly be used for taking notes however it will also be used for some light gaming (Skyrim, Minecraft, Slime Rancher etc.) Nothing too taxing. It would also be GREAT to have a fingerprint scanner as my partner has ADHD and gets super frustrated with passwords. The keyboard and typing experience is not a huge issue for them, as they are terrible at typing anyways and the same goes for the trackpad, as long as both are functional. My partner is NOT a techy person and so will not be un/impressed by extra nice keyboard/display technology/refresh rate/bezels/ Many thanks to the kind people of the LTT forum. Ordered List of priorities: 1. Decent boot speed and performance. 2. Practicality and real world convenience (weight and size). 3. Light gaming. 4. Ease of use.

I have a Clevo x170sm-g where when it first boots the battery shows its not plugged in but the percentage doesn't go down, after awhile 20-40m every few seconds it will say it's plugged in and then it will say it's not after it's been on awhile it will stably say it's plugged in but any game will have low fps and big lag spikes iv already tried bringing it to best buy and they said it was "faulty ram" I tried each stick individually with no change, I also tried known good charging cables/bricks, and battery, iv tried to reinstall windows and install all drivers Specs: i9-10900K 64GB 2400mhz RTX2080super

I don't know if someone can help me, but I really need help… I have this laptop by 3 years and I experience a lot of problems (my dad brought it and I don't know the info about transactions because I returned by the day I received it). Well the processor get higher and higher and sometimes the processes or cores get crazy just watching or do nothing and stay on discord and I don't know why ;/. I tried hard to make the processor stay stable, and it worked a time, now it's the worst and when it reaches the limits It's randomly turned off. Well it's turned off because I don't have battery, but it was doing the same a few 4 months, randomly when it reached the limits the laptop charger automatically like it get disabled and reactivated, and sometimes it gets triggered in some times. Also, my GPU without enable the MSI Mode, I found this thing on this sub Reddit, and it helps a little (I don't know why it's needed and why it's not enabled my GPU on MSI mode or something, but it works a little but sometimes its auto disabled like it's not existed my GPU and have a lot of lag spikes without make a setting on Nvidia control panel). I tried to make also my CPU work a little better by using this Ultimate Tweaking for my laptop, and it works, right now I use that, but I still cannot use my laptop normal and I don't know why and what to do about that... Some settings I changed to be clear what I changed; By me https://imgur.com/a/DYrHFUL Default https://imgur.com/a/7PNnorU And to tell my experienced: Dying Light - Without makes settings average 40–55 FPS sometimes 60, but it's a nice luck to get 60 and all the settings it's on lite or medium depends on how my laptop prefer. After makes some settings on Nvidia control panel and try to make it performant its reach the normal state like 115 FPS avg and 70–78 PFS min with 4ms, and it's kinda okay. But after some time on playing it automatically turned off ;( Honkai : Star Rail - Medium profile on settings and same settings on Nvidia control panel, it's automatically turned off after I try to pay after cutscene on the start. COD Cold of War Zombies - Sometimes Play and turned off automatically with low and medium profile Minecraft - with or without mods same play sometimes and turned automatically off Roblox - on some games like no need for performance, It's turned off automatically I don't know what's wrong with my laptop, I change the thermal paste like every 4 mounts to know that it's not get melted, recently I change the thermal pads and it's the same. Can someone resolve my problem?

Since i replaced my hdd with an ssd, i noticed that the fan does not spin or is it really quiet? Thing is speedfan does not show any fans connected, neither does the BIOS. Last time i tried the stress test it went up to 65 degrees and stopped there. The laptop also gets very hot on my lap for some reason.

Hello, I recently started to have an issue with my laptop, I have had it for a few years now. Whenever I input my password on the login screen it, the Welcome screen pops back up and then the entire screen goes black. Any suggestions or tips are appreciated!

I am looking for the best performance Chromebook for $500USD. I am willing to lose some performance for features if required. It will be used for college work. Thank you in advance!

I bought a faulty Dell Latitude E5570 a few days ago... The fault was just that it would only work when plugged in so thought it would be a relatively simple fix, a new battery. Now I was looking at some 3rd party ones on Amazon but looking at reviews found them to not always work due to Dell checking that batteries are genuine parts and if not refusing to charge them. I therefore (as I didn't want to spend the crazy amounts of a new genuine battery but still want a battery) bought a slightly smaller capacity battery from eBay. Note, this 'new' battery is said to be compatible with this laptop on both the listing and having searched it and it is a genuine Dell battery so I saw no reason not to go for it considering the cost saving. Well I installed it in the laptop today and was greeted by it showing as 1 percent in Windows, which I noticed didn't appear to be increasing. As you've likely guessed by this point, when I looked in the BIOS it was saying it wasn't a genuine Dell battery. So after some research I came to the conclusion that prehaps this BIOS is too old to reconginise this battery, so went to Dell's website, searched the service tag and sure enough found it needed a BIOS update. So I downloaded the new BIOS and was greeted with an error saying that the battery needs to be above 10 percent for it to do... Little more research found that I could do it via cmd by running as administrator, typing the name of the file and then /forceit. At this point I then confirmed the actions on the pop ups and thought it was going to update, well it restarted, didn't update and just went stright to windows. Tried this a few times and same result. Well worth noticing as it was restarting it kept getting to the screen that the image shows, so I presumed the battery was causing the issue. I then removed the battery and tried again with the method via cmd, this time it just went stright into Win. So I then copied the bios exe file onto a spare USB and tried using the bios update option via the boot selector. This said inadequate for the power, which Im guessing is due to the battery. Google revealed little info about how to overcome this so I just tried to type the /forceit command in the options box and to my surprise the button to update them let me press it and the power thing had changed from inadequate in red to the word forced in green. Finally thought it would work but once again it just boots into Windows and doesn't update the BIOS. I don't understand why it's made so complicated to update the BIOS. I understand a warning about low battery or no battery but at the end of the day what's the different between been just plugged in on a laptop and using a desktop computer which I'm sure would let you update the BIOS fine. Specs: Dell Latitude E5570 with a core i5 6th Gen processor, 8gb RAM, 256gb SSD, Win 10 Pro. TL;DR want to update the BIOS on a Dell Latitude E5570 without a battery. Tried a variety of methods but cannot get it to update.

Hi, i have this laptop from my dad a long time ago, its alredy broken when i got it and have some other issues i want to use it for school so i dont have to plug it everytime, if anyone can help me it would be great (specs) -intel atom n550 -2gb ram -160 hdd -linux mint xfce 19.3

Hello I recently found a old 5.1 surround speaker (Canton MX-10 5.1)set att my parents, so I wonder if ther is a way to connect I to my laptop or any other device?

My mom has a 13" HP laptop that so far has killed 3 Sata SSDs. The laptop isn't used very often either. After the first SSD died she gave it for repairs and they swapped the Ssd which died soon after. So she gave it to a different technician. From that point the laptop wasn't used very often barely 15-20 times since Oct 2022 before it failed again. I'm visiting her on my holiday, I took it apart suspecting MB is causing the dmg but I didn't find any sign of dmg to the MB. Does anyone have any idea what might be the problem?

Hey guys, Long story but I recently found that my ASUS Zephyrus M15 laptop has a lot of factory defects that are making it ridiculously hard and expensive to repair. I want to talk to a higher up support tech at ASUS to see if I can get it replaced or repaired quickly, but I keep getting stuck with the low level support that don't really have power to help at all. I've called all morning and can never get past a level 2 "supervisor". Does anyone have experience actually getting to talk to someone that isn't limited to a script, and that can offer me more than a 20% discount on a repair I shouldn't have even had to make? Don't get me wrong, 20% discount is good, but it just sucks that I would still have to play $100+ for a manufacturing error. Thanks!

Hello, I recently got ( for free ) this laptop ( model g3 3779 from Dell ) from a company who discarded most of the older equipment. This particular laptop is in great shape, rarely used and etc. I saw it had dedicated 1060 GPU from NVIDIA which would make it a great budget gaming laptop, but there is a problem. Windows instantly blue screens whenever I try to install drivers for it, it just insta crashes.I get this : nvlddmkm.sys system_thread_exception_not_handled which would suggest that its a driver issue ( according to google at least ). I tried drivers from Dell ( older and new but without success ) same result, same BSOD. I updated everything else - BIOS, mobo drivers, but nothing helps. I cant find anything in BIOS related to dedicated GPU so I assume it switches to it when it needs in Windows. Had to boot to safe mode to disable auto drivers install from windows bcs it kept BSOD-ing every time I turn on the laptop so now I am stuck with only Intel UHD 630 but at least there is no crashes. I also tried downloading latest drivers from NVIDIA which installed fine and GPU is picked up in device manager but after restarting windows it gives me error code 43 - device reported problems so Windows stopped it ( attached picture ). This is probably hardware related so my questions are : Did anyone had anything similar to deal with ? Can it be fixed , or is it even profitable to take it to the repair store ? Thanks for the responses in advance. OS - Windows 10 x64 2H22 RAM - 16 GB

Hello, I’m looking into upgrading my parents old Satellite Z830 laptop with a new cheap non-mechanical drive. They have a mechanical 128GB hd in there and it’s really slow. I’m just not sure what to look for exactly and not sure if modern drives will be compatible since this laptop is quite old. For the size anything at or above 128GB would be fine as they mostly use usb sticks for storage. Bonus recommendation: memory upgrade. They have 6GB so I thought I might as well look into upgrading to 8GB. Again, not sure what would be the optimal ram upgrade here. Budget: as low as possible since the laptop is old and I believe that any upgrade will be much better regardless of cost. Thanks in advance for the recommendations.

Sometimes while doing CPU-Intensive tasks, such as gaming, the built in keyboard on my HP ProBook 440 G3 will have extreme latency when i stop pressing a key. For example: If i hold the W key for about 20 seconds, after i let go it will sometimes register for anywhere between 1-30 seconds while i am not even touching the key. Nothing i do during that time gets it to stop registering either. This makes the keyboard almost impossible to use while gaming or doing anything else CPU intensive. I have tested this with plugging external keyboards into my laptop, and not a single one has the issue, so it must be the integrated one. But all of my drivers are up to date and there is no obvious problem with the keyboard other then this, so it must be something software level. Is this a known issue? If so, is there any possible fix?

Budget: Not realy set on a budget Country: Netherlands Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Fusion, Photoshop, Illustrator, stray and horizon. Other details: My girlfriend has an 4 year laptop that still works okey but is not the best and she wants a desktop since she does not like her small screen for doing a lot of thing so i was thinking about getting her a screen that is color accurate and a mouse and keyboard and a laptop doc so she has the look of a desktop but still her laptop as her main computer since she needs one for school anyway and after we get that setup i want to buy a new laptop that can easy handle her workload. So the main thing i need your help for is - Monitor - New Laptop - And a Doc (So she only has to plug in the doc and her charger instead of all her cables)

i didn't really want to go here for this, but i am looking for a laptop that has an interchangeable GPU, and the rest of the internet is no help and buying a gaming laptop is hella expensive and i cant really do desktop as i move alot

Hi there, I am curious about what docking station i need for my laptop (MSI katana 15 b12v) to support my monitor (MSI MAG241C) with the full 144hz. I also watched many videos and read many threads to get an answer but i still can't find it. I only need it to be 1080p because my monitor doesn't support 4K, i would love a recommendation that isnt too expensive but still supports 1 HDMI or DP output for my monitor that reaches the 144hz.

I have an Alienware 15 R3 that i use mostly for gaming and wanted to get rid of the original 1 TB had drive and replace it with a ssd so it would be faster. While I was looking for an ssd I saw the Samsung 870 Evo 2 TB for around $150. I also noticed the speeds were really low compared to a NVMe m.2 ssd so I went looking for an adapter for NVMe m.2 to sata and found an adapter for $30. I picked the WD_Black SN850X 1TB for my ssd. after looking a the cost it was about 150 dollars for all of the items on Amazon. Sorry for the paragraph but I wanted to know should I sick with the ssd and would the adapter slow down the speed of the m.2 drive also would the m.2 drive need a heat sink so it wouldn’t over heat.

This laptop is 5 years old, it used to be my family's, but since it's barely functional they wanted to get rid of it and I wanted to see if I could resurrect it. When plugging in the laptop, the powerbrick didn't want to work (or just the LED indicator), however then the LED was working, however none of the laptops LEDs turn on when I plug the charger in, the laptop seems to be 0% on battery, at leas I assume it is, I did leave it plugged in for few hours with no change. The laptop also doesn't seem to have direct access to the battery, and would need me to at least unscrew the bottom to do so. The laptop in question is an Acer with a Pentium processor, the model on the back reads: Extensa 2508-P272 (I'll attach images of top and bottom side with charger plugged in)

Hi, I am planning on buying a laptop and I have 2 CPU/ Processor options, Intel i7- 13620H VS AMD Ryzen 7 7840HS. The graphics card for both of them is same, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050 6BG GDDR6. I need help as I am very confused between the two options. I will primarily use it for some daily work and gaming. The price offered to me for both is the same. The laptop brand is Lenovo. Kindly give some suggestions along with a brief reasoning as if you are explaining a fairly new guy to this field. Thanks

Background: I have a Dell G5 5590 that is exhibiting some odd behavior. Specs are as follows: I5 9300H GTX 1650 32 GB Ram (Dual Channel) I've done a few things to this PC in this order: Cleaned the fans (spraying air cannister condensate into them by accident causing notable whining) Installed MSI Afterburner to attempt to give my GPU a small bump. This resulted in battery drain even when plugged in when gaming (and some really bad battery activity such as not charging to 100%). Uninstalled MSI Afterburner I removed my battery as it began to swell and used my laptop exclusively plugged in. went from 8gb to 32 gb of ram Recently replaced SSD and reimaged with fresh windows 10 (issue still persists) The Problem: Performance began to dip after Uninstalling MSI Afterburner and got notably worse when i removed my battery. During game sessions, I would experience extreme dips in FPS (80fps to low 15s) and would stay low for a notable amount of time. Generally this happened when more was happening on screen, however this was not the only trigger as it would happen when I hadn't moved in game at all with nothing on screen. For a time the fans would kick in, however they recently have not (though they are still functional, aka i can force them to 100% speed). With task manager open, I noticed my clock speeds acting extremely weird, with clock speeds dropping extremely low when under load. During my testing for example, in a situation where multiple abilities on screen, my frames dropped from 80 to 10, and when I checked my clock speeds, they were 1.15Ghz (For context the base clock of my CPU is 2.4Ghz). My temperatures at that moment were around 60c. What I've Tried: Running Aida 64 and stressing my CPU had a similar effect where my clock speeds dropped from 2.4Ghz to around 1.1Ghz under load, This was without any temperature spikes or anything, once under load the clockspeeds would simply drop. NOTE: During this test Aida 64 did not show the warning for thermal throttling. Fresh install of Windows, however problem still persists in games (I have not benchmarked aida 64 in this new install) My Question: What could be the cause of this downclock underload? I will be doing more testing with Aida64 and other tools, trying to replace parts by ordering them through dell. Is it a voltage problem? perhaps with the battery gone my 130W powersupply is unable to supply enough power? I'm no longer sure where to look, and some help would be much appreciated! Thank you so much for reading, I'm thankful for any help here!

Background lots of info on the laptop is in my initial review thread but a TL:DR is that this laptop is incredibly powerful but struggles to cool a 10900k (I know, who would have guessed it's hard to cool a desktop i9 in a laptop). I've been interesting in the hybrid coolers for clevo machines since before I bought this laptop, but obviously there are some problems. Mainly complexity, portability, and cost. The Parts I tried to keep this as compact and simple as possible while not compromising portability too much. I knew I needed a quick and easy way to disconnect the water cooling system if I needed to take the machine somewhere, there's really 2 options for this: Predone aliexpress kits with a 'water return function' that I was told is quick and easy but I don't know how much I trust them and they are quite expensive (another $300-$400 on top of the heatsink). Quick Disconnect Fittings I went with quick disconnects, the ones I got were from koolance. I was told the tubing is 3mm ID, 5mm OD. It's not, it's 4mm ID, 6mm OD. I had to cut up end off the rubber cover that shipped with the fittings and use as a kind of adapter in between the 3mm bard and fitting, this plus a zip tie seems to work pretty reliably, haven't had any issues but just in case I angled the laptop and positioned everything in a way that if one was to leak it wouldn't leak onto anything except the desk. (the fitting on the laptop heatsink are designed for 4x6mm tubing. I'll probably get some 3x5mm tubing and hope I can stretch in over the laptop's fittings. As for the rest of the loop I found this thing: It's a Barrow DARIDP-30, it's a pump, radiator, and mini reservoir all in one. It's perfect for something like this as it simplifies the loop to basically just 2 tubes between the laptop and it. Plus it's actually quite cheap, I got mine for $160 on eBay which is way cheaper than a pump+res+rad. The hybrid heatsink is from Aliexpress, here's a link for the X170SM-G/X170KM-G but they have one for a lot of Clevo laptops. Total Cost to watercool it is ~$600 which is quite a lot and honestly probably isn't worth it from a cost/performance perspective. Mini heatsink review Overall the performance of this heatsink is awesome however basically everything else was kind of eh. Mine arrived a little bit bent on one side but it still fit without issues. There were literally 0 instructions for where to place thermal pads so I just had to guess based off the stock heatsink, I guessed wrong... 3 times... Had to spend multiple hours trying different configurations until it wouldn't either hard crash under GPU load or throttle the CPU because the VRMs were overheating... The reason it took so many attempts despite only including 2 different thickness of thermal pads was that you have to stack thermal pads to make contact with most of the VRMs..... Also as mentioned above, I asked what size the tubing was so I could order QDCs and they told me 3x5mm, the tubing literally has '4x6mm' written on the side of it... The Benefits The main thing I was looking for was getting the CPU temp under control when playing games or just under short bursty workloads. That definitely happened, instead of the CPU stilling at ~60 and spiking up to 90+ it sits at 40-45 and spikes up to only ~70 max. (under a all core stress test like cinebench it still reaches the 90s). With the normal heatsink cinebench would throttle the CPU down to ~4.5-4.6GHz while pulling ~140W. Now it'll happily truck along at 5.0GHz while pulling just over 200W... Cinebench went from ~15000 to ~16400, I beat a stock 1950x xD. 3DMark scores honestly aren't much higher but temps are way lower. Without any real tweaking besides my quick GPU overclock that I knew was stable (+140 core, +800 mem) I got almost 12k in Timespy: It's also quite a bit quieter even with the radiator fan speed at 100%. Honestly might swap the fans with some Noctuas though. I believe any 120mm (25mm thick) fan should fit in that pump/rad/res combo thing. plus, like it's cool. Pictures Conclusion It's super cool. However if you just want to improve CPU temperatures I would highly recommend just getting the aftermarket air cooled heatsink as I tested it without the loop connected and while temps were obviously higher I was actually able to run 4.9GHz all core while pulling ~180W in cinebench. It also didn't spike as high during normal use. This is probably because they more than doubled the amount of heatpipes connected to the CPU compared to the stock heatsink. I'm just one to see how far I can push the limits and having a 10 core i9 @ 5GHz in a laptop is quite awesome, lol. Extras If you like this kind of stuff, check out @Meaker's thread here. Feel free to ask questions and suggest things.

I was wondering if a SATA connector connected to the motherboard this way, maybe we can replace it with a M.2 SATA or M.2 NVMe. If that's not possible and NVMe should be connected directly to the motherboard, is that possible to move my WiFi Card over here (on the place of ODD SATA port)? so that I can connect an NVMe ssd there. Also Speccy says I have 3 PCIe x1 ports available. What are those and how I can utilize them?