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so about a week ago i bought a new keyboard, the corsair k70 rapidfire. I really like it. always used membrane keyboards. but now after a week, the keys : w" and "4" make a typical "spring" sound when you press them a bit slow. is it normal for a mechanical top make suchs sounds? or should i go back to the store and try to get a new one? (the "windows" and "k" key also have a bad finish, got some residu to them)

Hi all I am looking for replacement PTB keycaps for my K70 RGB I don't want anything flashy so I would prefer that they were black but I would like to retain the shine through lettering and they must be in an ISO format, I am also aware that the corsair keyboards have unusual space bar sizes so if you would be able to advise me om where it is possible to get PTB spacebars of that size then I would appreciate it. Thank you very much for all your help.

my friend baught a k70 non rgb and discovered there isnt a lighting app the sad way and im trying to find an app i can use to do it manually since cue doesnt support k70 halp?

My keyboard lights freeze and i cant fix it unless i uninstall software and reinstall then it freezes again.

Hello All, I have the money to buy a mechanical keyboard, and I know that i want a keyboard with mx blues, and rgb. The two keyboards I have narrowed it down to are the K70 RGB LUX MX Blue, with the replacement keycaps, and the Ducky Shine 5 White edition with MX Blues. Which one is the better keyboard? And I have a black, red a white setup (White M65 with red LED) Thanks, Josh

Hey guys, quick question. Which is better, Corsair K70 LUX RGB or Corsair Strafe RGB?? What are the differences, and which is better overall. Price does not matter. Thanks in advance guys!

Hi, ever since last summer I bought a k70 Red Switch of amazon in the UK, How ever I dont live in the UK so after summer was over I traveled back to south east asia where I live. How ever after the flight my keyboard has been acting strage, after I have used the keyboard for around 3ish hours SOME keys go sticky its the same keys everytime, the most noticeable ones being A and left Shift, this as you might imagine is frustating me while playing games. How ever after I have not used the keyboard for a while the keys go back to normal. I have NO Idea why and its been very very frustating, I have just tried to ignore it until now. Thank you for reading this! PS this is a repost that I posted in November but now one replyied.

I was just wondering what is the reason for corsair strafe keyboard to still be avaliable since the k70 lux has all the features since it's been uptated to lux plus better multimedia controls and better build, aluminium, wrist rest... all that for a 10$ price premium wth RGB and the SAME price when going with non-RGB model. And yes i know about the white background on strafe, but with only that, the K is still running circles around it. IMHO.

Hello,I recently ordered the corsair k70 LUX (non-RGB, red LEDs) with MX browns. When I went to check the forums, i noticed that many people were reporting dying LEDs, as soon as 6h after delivery and the most recent report being dated July 2016. It wasn't for the lux models, but I still want to be sure that I didn't order a cca. $130 keyboard that will fail on me as soon as I get it.I actually prefer the non-RGB model because I don't like the excessive light spill on RGB versionsSKU: CH-9101022-DEThank you.

Hey, so I recently purchased a M65 Pro RGB mouse from Corsair to go along with my new K70 RGB Rapidfire Keyboard after completing by build. However, I've been experiencing lag from the mouse when in the Desktop. By lag I mean the mouse responds slowly to my movements. The mouse is unpredictable, the sensitivity is variable. I have the mouse set on 1500 DPI and have tried different DPI's yet the mouse still lags. The lag between me moving the mouse and it responding is about 0.3 seconds and happens only on the desktop being very noticeable. It seems that the mouse is trying to smooth out its motion. Anyone know of a fix for this? I tried plugging the mouse in to other USB ports on my Motherboard (Asus Maximus VIII Formula), and even tried switching it out with another M65 Pro RGB mouse because I bought 2 accidentally. I also tried plugging in a standard Dell Mouse, and that worked perfectly. Specs: Case: Corsair 460X RGB Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Formula CPU: i7 6700k GPU: Asus Strix 1070 RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator 3000MHz Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX PSU: Corsair HX750i Fans: 6X Corsair HD120 RGB Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB Rapidfire (Cherry MX Speed) Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB Thanks and Happy New Year! EDIT: Upon trying the M65 mouse on my workstation laptop, the mouse worked just fine. On this laptop the Corsair Utility Engine (CUE) that controls the RGB lighting of Corsair Peripherals is not installed. Could it be a CUE function overriding a Windows Mouse Function?

Hello everyone, After owning this awesome keyboard for around two years, today it's randomly having this issue where it would disconnect and reconnect. The windows notification sounds play so I know when it's happening. I have found no way to trigger it intentionally and it happens randomly. When I'm gaming and it happens, it seems to hold down the last key I pressed (eg. character keeps running forward). Also when it happens, it does the generic lighting effect (all red except for white WASD and arrow keys) but with some additional random keys lit purple. I've tried unplugging it and reinstalling software as well as rebooting computer but nothing is working. The only temporary fix that works is turning off all the lighting effects. However when I do that, the '/' key stays lit in a dark red colour. If anyone knows what's wrong please tell me.

To put it straight, the keyboard has stopped working. The usb port and the LED's are all working fine (besides the fact I cant change the colours), it's just that the keys don't type. Also when opening CUE I get the "No device detected!" message. I've had to go back to a less attractive keyboard for the time being, anyone know any fixes? I've tried Re-Installing CUE and Re-Installing Windows. (CUE Version: 2.8.70) OS: Win 10

Covering the system first: Intel Core i7-6950x OC 4.4Ghz @ 1.29v Rampage V Edition 10 BIOS current 1003 64GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 8 dimms @ 2800rpm (w/dimms light bar kit which has no effect of anything) Corsair h115i AIO 280mm rad w/2 Noctua industrial NF-A14 in pull configuration 2 EVGA GTX 1080 FE GPU's modified with EVGA hybrid kits & 4 Noctua Industrial NF-F12 120mm fans (2 each) in push/pull configuration Intel 750 series NVMe PCIe SSD as boot drive, and w/3 Intel 730 series SATA SSD's in RAID 0 for more storage Corsair ax1500i 80Plus Titanium rated 1500w PSU powering evertthing And finally the system is running Windows 10 Pro version 1607 Anniversary Update. Originally I was using ROG's GK2000 Horus and Spatha RPG mouse. These peripherals were run on the same R5E10 with the ROG Armory software that comes included with the mobo. After working with and reviewing both pieces, I decided I wanted full RGB for my keyboard, and I wanted faster timings/keystrokes which led me to the K70 RGB Rapidfire from Corsair, and M65 pro mouse as the Spatha is so large and heavy that I found it much to difficult to use with any type of FPS and many other games. I was in a hurry so I removed the original peripherals and connected the Corsair ones while the system was "shutdown" Once connected, the K70 keyboard was all lit up and doing the rainbow effect. So I turned the tower on to adjust the settings to make it stop. Instead, the keyboard wasn't recognized by the CUE (Corsair Utility Engine). I contacted Corsair and we began several troubleshooting steps over a period of 2 weeks, ultimately going thru the steps one last time while on the phone. They decided to is an RMA and I am still waiting for the replacement to arrive. While waiting, I decided to set up the M65 mouse colors and MM800's colors. The mouse seems to be working ok, though the CUE software keeps issuing warnings stating that there is a firmware update even though the firmware on the mouse has already been updated. But the MM800 is another story. The CUE is recognizing it, but when selecting the "static" option, the mouse pad just blacks out completely. In fact, after attempting to try different colors and different settings, suddenly the CUE locked up and not having a keyboard to Ctrl+Alt+Del, I was forced to cycle the power and re-boot to get that lockup to clear. Is is anyone else having issues like this? I'm starting to think that this is less hardware and more a continuance of the CUE software that's causing the problem as while not even having a keyboard connected it still throws a Macro warning that it's not working, and the software itself is throwing a warning that the software needs to be updated after confirming with Corsair that it is the current software version that's installed and running. They said aid there is no known software incompatibilities with their CUE 2 software. Should I completely remove the ROG Armory software? Should I completely delete the drivers once this replacement keyboard arrives?

Which One you think is Better For Gaming and typing. Games I play the most-CSGO,Dota2,GTA V

Hey guys, I got this Corsair K70 (RED switch) a few years back. Because of conversion rate, shipping, etc . . . I had to pay around $180. Last year, accidentally I spilled some milk tea on the left side of the keyboard (Point to be noted, it's very sticky when dried up). Immediately I disassembled my keyboard and cleaned it as best I could. It worked fine for 3 months . . . Then some switch on the left side started giving up. Left Ctrl, Windows, Alt stopped working. The switches were actually OK (I tested with a multimeter) but keys were not registering. So I paid local repair guy ~ $20 to "fix it". He said the contact was rusting and it was causing the trouble. So, he rewired the Left Crtl, Windows, Alt with Right Ctrl, Windows, Alt. Another month passed by. Everything was fine and dandy. Then suddenly all the bottom key got shorted (my guess). It was like I was mashing the bottom row keys. I stopped using it for a while (~ 1.5 weeks) and it fixed itself and worked perfectly fine for a week or two before the issue reappeared. This is a continuous cycle. If I don't use it for a while it fixes itself and then stops working again after a day or two. From my understanding, this looks like a PCB issue. It pains me greatly to throw away ~$200 like that. It's a great keyboard and I still want to use it. I looked for aftermarket PCB but could not find any. Although there are many custom PCB available on the internet, I could not find any that could be used as a drop-in replacement. Considering how popular K70 is, I was a bit shocked. Is there any hope? Do you have any suggestion? Please, let me know. Also sorry for shitty bad English.

I want to start off by saying - I've been using the low profile for about 2 months now - on and off and comparing it to the Blackwidow Elite - with yellow switches and the the Corsair K70 Rapidfire I like everything about the Corsair K70 Low Profile - Except the " feel " of the switches - Compared to a blackwidow Elite with linear yellow switches or to any other Corsair with Normal cherry linear switches - the low profile switches feel like damp newspaper - They are tiring to type on and feel like you're in a constant fight while typing and also - the low profile cherry switches are slow to return after a key press - To sum it up - IMHO - Cherry dropped the ball big time - they tried to do something good and instead took a step backwards - the low profile switches suck - Period - If u want a damp newspaper feel - go buy it - I love K70's and have 2 that I use on and off - The low profile K70 is going to be sold asap - After using my Blackwidow Elite and K70 Rapidfire - there is no room for a damp Newspaper K70 low Profile - Sorry Cherry - but your low profile switches suck - better luck next time Although I like Corsair and the K70 in particular - I strongly suggest to everyone reading this that if you're considering getting into mechanical keyboards to go try out the new Razer Blackwidow Elite - Yellow switches for linear and green switches for clicky - Overall best pre built mechanical keyboard IMHO

I know a decent amount about mechanical keyboard switches, but I need some help. I have a K70 mk1 with Cherry MX Reds. I can't stand typing on it anymore but I can't return it because I purchased it awhile ago. I'm looking to purchase new switches so that I can desolder the current switches and put in new ones. What kind of switches will fit and will all switches work with the iCue software? I was looking at the Kailh Box Royal switches from NovelKeys but their page says that only work with SMD lighting. What does that mean and are they compatible with the K70 pcb?

so I've been having an issue for a while now that my Numpad 1 doesn't work. I have a Corsair K70 Lux RGB. Now let me rephrase that it works when the keyboard is in bios mode but when it's in modes 1-3 it doesn't work. I have contacted Corsair before but since its not a mechanical issue but software(they said it could be a programs hotkey or something)they couldn't do anything for me. does anyone have a solution to figure out what's preventing it from working or what is using this key as a hotkey?

Iam using Apple wireless keyboard since 2012 i think, i want a new keyboard apple has broken keys. iam used to low profile keys so i have 2 options, Wireless like apple, logitech g915 and corsair k70 (couldnt found low profile k95) iam doing a lot of writing to microsoft office apps and gaming r6 mostly. i dont like clicky noisy keyboards so no blue switches, idk other switches can u guys explain? are they water resistant?can i sync my logitech mice and keyboard to icue? which one do you guys prefer (dont mind the price) just features?

So my Corsair K70 RGB LUX has a serious issue, The scroll lock light is flashing constantly. I've tried a soft reset (holding esc while plugging the keyboard in) I've also tried a hard reset (pressing down a switch while plugging it in, uninstalling the driver and reinstalling it) I've also tried the method most forums suggest, changing the Bios switch at the back of the keyboard from 1 to Bios and then back to 1. Non of these work. Unlike other people, my windows lock button does work and other keys function as well, but the keyboard is constantly inputting commands like the "#[" keys, it also constantly opens the bin when on the desktop making it impossible to use. I'm hoping someone with more knowledge than me can find a fix before I give in and try my warranty. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

So I’ve had a Corsair k95 plat, I enddd up returning it because my left shift key felt extremely odd and not mechanical, so I got different switches next time around, and a different kB. I got a k70 mk2 cherry mx red. But again, some of my keys feel like they’re mushy or something. So I know it’s not a defect because it’s happened twice. My question, does Corsair use O-Rings on some of their keys? Is there a way to fix this?

So the down arrow on my keyboard and keypad are simply not working yet they are being registered on an online keyboard checker. I force updated the keyboard's drivers and I uninstalled iCUE and the keyboard's drivers afterwards but the issue still persists.

I just saw this on amazon when looking at keyboards Is this old news? It looks to me like a k95 without the lightbar or macros... Still not sure if there has been any official mention by Corsair and I can't find information on it anywhere online. Curious what people think. Edit: There is also a white version Edit 2: It looks like they took it down but you can still see the "older" models are called mk1 under style.

Let me just start off by saying that I unfortunately did not take any pictures of the horrible mess that was covering the aluminum front plate of my keyboard or the mess that was covering the internal pcb, I wasn't sure if my attempts would prove fruitful so I neglected to document it at all. Given the chance to do it again I would have made some type of video going over the process. In the past few months a good friend of mine and myself have been experimenting with making our own alcohol, completely legal where I am from as long as you don't use any type of distillation process. While adding some sugar to one particular blend I had been making I forgot that when you mix sugar into a solution that has active yeast in it there will be a sudden expansion of gasses and it will bubble in whatever contain you have it in. Unfortunately for me these bubbles overflowed though the mouth of my funnel, which had about 60 grams of sugar in it. and coated my keyboard in it quickly shorting out everything it came into contact with. I did what any other person would do, borrowed a friend of mines keyboard while my new one was being shipped and happily went about my day. It was about a week before i got the idea to try and save my old keyboard. I purchased it from a friend of mine in school shorty after it was released for 50 bucks, he thought he was getting one of the rgb versions instead of static red, and it was my first mechanical keyboard. Watching Lukes video about fixing his old keyboard gave me the push i needed to try and fix it, after all what could go wrong? So I blindly began to take out all of the screws i could to get the frame separated, I was nearly ready to admit defeat when I couldn't locate the last two screws, this was my first time taking apart a keyboard and I was too stubborn to look up a guide before I began, so with the internet as my weapon I searched for the answer. Now I understand having to work around certain engineering aspects of how something is put together, I worked at a factory that had twenty to thirty year old machines still running and would often have to find screws and fasteners put in the most ridiculous places, but why would you put a screw under your logo on a product that would have to be removed for any type of maintenance or thorough cleaning by the user? The second screw (located under the right metal cover of the volume scroll wheel) makes perfect sense to me as that can be removed easily and without damaging the rather thin piece of metal. With the last of the screws out of the way the rest of it was actually pretty simple, pull the plastic back-plate free and there you go. I ran into a speed bump when I realized the metal body of the keyboard couldn't be removed, to the best of my knowledge it looked like the key switches were attached to the body itself as well as the pcb. Not stopping there I took some 91% rubbing alcohol and some cotton pads and began to clean the back of the pcb as well as I could, with the back cleaned I reassembled the keyboard with four of the screws and filled the keyboard with as much of the alcohol as I could. I let it sit and soak for about 30 minutes before I tilted it on its side and began to let alcohol run though the keyboard and drain out of the bottom. I repeated that four or five time before I took it all back apart and zip tied it to my shower curtain rod to air dry. It took about 3 hours before It had dried to the point I felt safe putting it all back together and firing it back up, and what do you know it works! I've lost some of the creature comforts the board had before, things like the mute button dose't work the brightness button dosen't do anything and the button to illuminate only WASD the space bar and arrow keys is equally as unless. Aside from those few things the only side effect I can notice is several of the keys stick and are harder to push than they were before the sugar volcano erupted on my desk. I thought about using WD-40 to fix it but have read several conflicting articles, some say that it wont hurt anything at all while others insist that it will degrade the plastic of the keycaps as well as damage the pcb. If anyone has any suggestions about how I can remedy this I would welcome the input. I hope whoever reads this enjoyed the tale, and like Luke pointed out don't be afraid to take apart your broken electronics to see if you can fix them.

so i got a new case and moved all my components into it. now my keyboard and mouse keep having "device malfunction" on the cue. ive always had issues with the software for my keyboard and mouse. have the wireless void headset but given up on it. what can i do? ive tried reinstalling cue, uninstalling the devices in device manager, updating firmware. the only temp fix i haev is to uunplug it and replug it back in. its my mouse and keyboard at the same time so i know it software. its driving me crazy im never buying corsair stuff again. since i got my keyboard i had issues where if it would keep doing shit. i love the product but the software and bugs just are so annoying.