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Alright guys, you know the drill. I post a dumb, ridiculous question that has probably been answered and then I feel like a fool, but here's another "is this a thing", er, thing. Can you use a soldering iron (like a larger one) or some type of soldering method I guess, to connect multiple pieces of copper and stuff together? Basically, can you solder stuff like laptop heat pipes, small fin assemblies (likely connected to those wimpy pipes, maybe a fan), to make a larger heat sink? I would take the aforementioned laptop heat pipes and solder them to a small block of copper cut to a decent size to cover the cpu (if cannibalizing a gpu air heat sink wasn't possible) and just SOMEHOW getting it all together. Even if it was ugly, I don't care. It's all for shiggles and gets to me. I wouldn't try to mount it to a laptop or am trying to improve a laptops thermals/performance. I just wanna mod me up a heat sink for the hell of it, maybe create a rad heat sink that could maybe later be upgraded with water cooling for a custom pc; custom sound dampened enclosure, just a sweet custom rig. I couldn't find really anything on this topic, or know how to google it best. I doubt using torch solder for connecting pipes would work, would damage the components. I thought maybe you could connect flat surfaces and "weld" a nice rim around the two pieces, basically weld it together best you can and hope the heat transfers well. I don't think the solder would soften during heavy loads and disconnect or whatever. And with a good, powerful soldering iron you wouldn't have to heat the metal I would think. I don't know obviously, about any of this stuff. So any friendly advice or knowledge would be awesome! Also before I end the post, I can post pictures of some hardware I had thoughts of connecting together, or pictures of stuff I think would work well; I guess now that I think about it, this question gets more and more into is custom air cooling possible? I've seen videos by people like DIY Perks that make me inspired to try stuff, so I've been dismantling decommissioned gear, mostly a couple computers in hopes to use them in a future project. I think a custom cooler would be fun. PS. I just want to reiterate I know this is a terrible idea and wouldn't use this on my main computer, I figure it must be too hard or not possible seeing no posts on it so maybe it's common sense it is out of reach but I'm hoping someone knows whether it is safe and possible to try it. Thanks!
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Hello guys, so yesterday i bought second hand i7-3770 and im a little bit worried about the temps. The seller says it had never been overclocked, tho i suppose they all say that... So i'm using i3-3240 stock cooler (i guess all intel stock coolers are the same, but still...) with Arctic MX-2 thermal paste and i get 45c on idle and 75-80 in Witcher 3 and cinebench. Still haven't tried Prime95, because i'm too scared it will freak out and get to 90c I know it might be a stupid question, but is that "kinda" normal temps for this CPU? Considering the ambient temperature in my room is like 32-33c (blame summer) ?
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I was wondering if there was any performance difference between the two, i kinda wanan get the turbo one because it will match my color scheme. But if the 212 x is better i will get that one ( i have a 6600k ) -
I have a core i5 2500k and i need help finding a decent overclocking board and a cooler to keep up with the higher clock speeds. I'm on a tight budget so for the motherboard anything below $90 and for the cpu cooler below $40 is awesome. I generally buy my hardware from ebay so it's very appreciated if you can find the items there. -
I know this will sound very weird but I got some minor scratches on both my CPU and heatsink with one small but kind of deep scratch on the CPU ( just the metal, no big deal). Normally to get rid of them you’d lap them, right? Or let the thermal paste fill them. But I was wondering if it is somehow possible to fill the aluminum on the CPU and heatsink instead to get rid of those scratches. What would I need and what would the procedures be if such a thing was possible? Thanks in advance people.
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Can anyone recommend the best cpu air cooler for the 1151 socket. Many coolers ive seen say it fits 1151 but when I look on the manufacturer website, 1151 is not listed under the supported sockets. Thanks!
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So I know this has been discussed before, and that Linus has done two videos on it already. But, I feel like the attempts didn't take into account a few better options. 1. 3D printed material. There are better material they could print with that could have been burned off/melted out much easier. Woodfill PLA or gluetype material generally used for support. Besides that, I'm not sure what % they used to fill the interior of their cooler, but if they make it 10% solid instead of 100% that should allow for much easier burning off. 2. Design. I think the solid block with a straight line of fins is the laziest design possible. Even if their Heatsink would have came out as designed, it still probably would have been at best the same as stock Intel coolers. Why not go for a high surface area geometry or even fractal design. Yes this would be harder to design, but this is 2017 and LTT obviously knows enough to either Matlab it up themselves or find a fanboy online who knows exactly about this type of design. 3. Aluminum instead of copper?? Why?! That amount of copper is going to cost nothing especially if you're just scrapping it out! And for god sakes, use some Borax in that melted metal before pouring it! 4. Bypass the heat spreader IHS. Why not take their CPU IHS off, weld it in some fashion to their finished heatsink, and then Thermal paste that bad boy back on directly to the silicon? Eliminate every issue and give them known improvement In thermals. Believe it or not, I'm actually working to do something like this. I'm in the process of stripping about 200ft of copper coax and collecting it. That should give me ~10lbs to work with. I've used solidworks to design other objects, I own a Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer that I know how to use. If anyone is at all interested in bouncing ideas around with me, I'm more than excited to talk with you.
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Hi, I am making a lan party pc from used items that I brought. So far I have a Asus P6T Deluxe v1 with a x5660. I got a HD 5870 for 30 bucks, so this was a great price / performance pick. I know it's a older card in fact one of the first DX 11 cards on the market back in the days. I used to have two of them in CF, so I know for the games I want to play (mostly older ones) that this one will be fine. But the card I have is the reference amd 5870. It has the awful loud blower fan design and I was looking for a cooling solution. I only found this : Arctic Cooling Accelero Xtreme III Which costs more than the card itself ... (63 euro's here). The other one I found is a: Gelid Solutions Rev. 2 ICY VISION (almost 40 euro). Do others exist or is this really as low as it gets?
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I want to upgrade my current CPU to an i7-7700 (or the k version, not quite sure, could discuss that too?), and I know that I need to change my motherboard, but was wondering which motherboard to get and if I need to upgrade anything else. So my current set-up : Power supply: 600w CPU: i5-4570 @3.2 GHz (Changing to i7 7700 or 7700k) GPU: GTX 1070 (Keeping the same) RAM: some basic 2x4gb DDR3 @ 800MHz (This I'm thinking about upgrading as well alongside, but don't know what to get. The price range is very varied from what I see, and I don't quite see the advantages of one 2x8gb and a different one) Mobo: H81M-Plus (Obviously got to change, but to what, keeping in mind case size) CPU Heatsink: I'm not quite sure, but it's not one of the liquid ones. I've used this PC for about 2 years and cooling has never been an issue, so I don't know if I desperately need a new cooler? Case: Zalman Z3 Plus (I don't know if this counts as a small case or not, tbh) -
Is it possible to (and should you use) a thermoelectric cooler (in any way) to cool your system? (for example.... ummm....maybe..... in a completely enclosed case that has no holes or vents so that it looks futuristic and makes little noise). Just curious Item in question: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2322090.m570.l2632.R2.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xthermoelectric+.TRS0&_nkw=thermoelectric+cooler&_sacat=92074
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Bought a Cryorig M9i off of Newegg for $19.99 (US) with free shipping. Here is my review. FIRST IMPRESSIONS The box was about the size I expected, but at least 2-3x the weight I was expecting. I was expecting a kind of lightweight feel, since the cooler is mostly aluminum, but Cryorig surprised me with how solid this thing feels. UNBOXING The box & packaging were great quality and easy to open. Nice graphics on the outside too. Included in said box: The heatsink (1) 92mm PWM 2200RPM fan - pre-mounted (4) fan clips, 2 for included fan (pre-mounted) and 2 extra for optional 2nd fan (4) fan vibration absorbers, 2 pre-mounted and 2 extra (2) heatsink mounting screws (pre-mounted to heatsink) (1) 4gram tube of CP 15 thermal paste (4) hexagon-head mounting posts (4) thumbscrew caps for mounting (2) black mounting arms (1) black plastic backplate - NOTE: this backplate feels extremely solid and I would have thought it was metal if it didn't sound like plastic when hit with a screwdriver (1) manual (1) registration card sealed in a nice little metallic envelope - NOTE: registration increases warranty from 3 years to 6 (!!!!!!!!!!! i don't think my PC will last that long lol) i think that's it? INSTALLATION Fairly simple, about 5-10 minutes for noobs including stock cooler removal. This was my first cooler installation (stock doesn't count) and it was fairly painless. REMOVE FAN FROM M9i HEATSINK Unplug and remove stock cooler, cleaning any old thermal paste Mount backplate using hex mounting posts Attach mounting arms to opposite end of mounting posts, surrounding the CPU, using the thumbscrew caps Apply thermal paste to CPU Remove plastic cover and press heatsink down on CPU (make sure you did step 1) Screw in and tighten the 2 mounting screws using a Phillips head screwdriver Plug in cooler to CPU_FAN header and enjoy PERFORMANCE AND ACOUSTICS My old LGA1150 stock cooler for my 4770K some of the cores hit 102C while playing Overwatch and sounded like a jet. AIDA64 pushed it to and slightly beyond 100C while thermal throttling up to 16%... all at stock clocks... The M9i, however, runs AIDA64 at max 65C on core 3 and all the rest lower, while having literally no audible noise. Seriously, if I open the side panel and stop the fan with my finger I hear no difference compared to 100% fan speed. Amazing product Cryorig, and what's even better is the price tag! VERDICT Great looking, sounding, and built product. Solid cooling for the small size and compatible with literally any memory kit. Great value for money. Even comes with extra thermal paste for reapplication or use in other devices. Also very good compatibility, 4 sockets with only 1 set of mounting hardware so no confusion (LGA115X compatible, so 1150, 1155, 1156, and 1151) and AMD version available as well. 10/10 would recommend!
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So recently I built myself my first computer, It has come to my attention that I need to revamp my poor air cooling setup. My cpu throttles itself even when it idles (I swear I have the world's worst heat sink right now), my gpu starts to throttle when I start anything intensive like gaming (both cpu and gpu throttle themselves at 60 celsius). I have 2 fans running in the front and one in the back. They are all 120mm and three pins. Also, 2 are static pressure fans? (I forget what their called). In terms of the cooling performance I do want to overclock my both my cpu and gpu. My case has 3 intakes (1 back (120mm) and 2 top (120-140mm) and 3 outakes (all front,120-140mm), I'm not too concerned about noise, but more effectiveness. I would also like a fan controller that would automatically change the fan speed based on cpu or gpu temps. For my cpu the clearance is 160mm (according to the box my case came in) So basically to sum it up I'm thinking a heat sink, 4 fans (one static pressure to blow air through my drive cage), and a fan controller to control them. My budget is $100 Canadian.
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I'm looking to upgrade my old system and my choice has been converging on Asus Prime x370 Pro board. I do however have one concern. In the case I have, the clearance between the top vrm heat sink and the radiator is extremely small)(see picture).There is no alternative mounting space for the radiator or the mobo, the case is Corsair Obsidian 550D. If anyone has that mobo, could you measure the height of the top vrm heatsink from the PCB? I cant find that information anywhere. I'm assuming the thickness of the PCB is the same as on my Gigabyte board As an alternative, if someone knows a good ryzen board that doesnt have the same issue, feel free to recommend it. Thanks!
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I'm trying to produce a monstrous cooling setup for the raspberry pi 3b, and simply put I would like to know if I can run a fan on any of the GPIO pins, including the ones connected straight to the power supply. The fan is 12 volts, .13A. I know it's suggested you stay under 350mA being pulled from the GPIO (my calculations show I'm below that number) but will the voltage affect the fan speed? I believe it will work but at a slower RPM, but I ask you all as I am by no means practiced with the GPIO. Thanks for any and all replies.
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Hello everyone, so I am building my first PC, and I have had some questions pertaining to several parts of the PC, so hopefully I can get some advice. For reference, here is what I have already decided upon: EVGA Z270 FTW K mobo Nvidia GTX 1080 Reference edition (not Ti) Intel i7 7700K Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB @ 2133mhz 2x WD Blue 1TB HDD @ 7200rpm + Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD Coolermaster Mastercase Maker 5t EVGA G3 Surpernova PSU 500-650W (TBD which exactly) Undetermined Blue Ray Optical drive For the questions: 1. For my case and configuration, how should I choose case fans. I am currently stuck between Corsair AF 120, SP 120, and ML 120. While I understand Static Pressure vs High airflow, Corsair only has RGB versions of static pressure fans, implying that they are suitable for case fans. Also, the static pressure fans have higher CFM than the airflow ones. So, which should I choose? (TL;DR Corsair SP/HD for chassis fans or corsair AF) 2. On a related subject, how should the fans be arranged? I have thought to have two fans in the front of the case as intake, and one in the back as exhaust, but the Maker 5t seems to have limited airflow from the front, so it seems that config would cause negative pressure. Should I change the airflow, or is my plan fine? 3. For a CPU heatsink, I am between Cryorig and Be quiet Dark Rock. From my research, it seems that the dark rock pro 3 will not fit with my RAM, but would the non pro fit? And if not, is there a cryorig heatsink that is just as quiet and effective? (I have already disqualified Noctua due to the aesthetics) 4. My monitor choice is between Acer predator 24'' 1440p or a 27'' 1080p (also acer predator). I know that 1440p cannot easily scale back to 1080p, but as for content such as movies, how easy is it to configure a windowed mode to get uncompromised 1080p on a 1440p monitor? Or should I get the 1080p monitor instead? 5. On my mobo, where would I plug in an RGB controller, such as the one that comes with corsair fans. If it goes into a fan port, how many watts would it draw, as the mobo manual says the fan ports can only supply a maximum of 12 watts. Thank you for your help with choosing the right parts.
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Hello, Looking at building a server for work for backups and light task virtual machine hosting. The challenge is that we only have a 12U rack and only 2Us are open for a machine. Boss told me to make it work, so here I am. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cjN2wV That list contains my current parts list. The goal is to be able to expand the storage later if needed. I need a heatsink that will fit in the 2U chassis and will work for Ryzen. Also, any recommendations on a different 2U chassis with lower wattage (but redundant) power supplies would be appreciated. Thanks! EDIT: I forgot to mention that this machine will also be acting as a PBX, and needs to have pci expansion for the appropriate hardware.
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Hello, My brothers PC's CPU temps have been running quite high, we're assuming it's due to the fact that we are using the stock cooler. This is the build that he has https://pcpartpicker.com/list/F8pWdC *Unlike what the pcpartpicker says, he has 8GB ram (2x4) So he is using both slots on the Mobo* Which aftermarket CPU cooler will be compatible with the motherboard and case? Trying to stay on a budget, maybe like $30 max? The lower the better. Thank you!
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Anyone know where to find the serial number on a dark rock 3, apart from the box. Need to order a AM4 kit.
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It's my understanding that LGA 2066 is still relatively new. I'm having some difficulties finding fans/heatsinks for it and am wondering if they just haven't hit the market yet. If this is the case, can anyone suggest how long it normally takes for fans/heatsinks to hit the market for new socket types? If it is not the case, could someone suggest a decent fan/heatsink for an LGA 2066 on an Intel X299 chipset Mobo? Just for added info, I'm looking at: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144058&ignorebbr=1 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117792&ignorebbr=1 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232443&ignorebbr=1
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I'm thinking of buying the Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 for a new ryzen build, and i need to know if i can fit this ram, thats 40mm high with this cooler. I also need to know if i can mount a Noctua 140mm fan on the Dark Rock Pro 3. (I'm sure the stock fan is fine , but i have my reasons for a wanting a 140mm noctua fan). If you're wondering why i don't get a noctua cooler, it's because i like the asthetics of the dark rock 3 better. My intention to have a better looking heatsink, then put a noctua fan on it for noctua like acoustics and cooling. Any information would be helpful regarding these two things. Thanks, GR412
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What are the normal RPMs for Ryzen 5 1600 cooler when idle. Mine are 1500-1650.And is there any offical amd software which lets me manage my CPU?
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heatsink ZALMAN CNPS5X PERFORMA (24 Euro Heatsink Worth it?)
<LanParty>Zeer0 posted a topic in Cooling
So my intel stock cooler broke and now im planning on buying an aftermarket cooler but im on a tight budget! This one costs 24 euro at my local electronics shop(and the reviews for this heatsink arent bad at all on newegg): http://www.eshopcy.com.cy/zalman-cnps5x-performa-p-PER.806901 Is it worth it at all? Or should I get a new intel stock cooler? Also I want to oc my Q8200, with the intel cooler I achived from 2.33GHz to a stable 2.8, giving me 61 degrees underload. I will try to put out a libk in the comments for my local shops website. Thanks! -
I was talking to a friend about some Rosewill fans that I got to put in my case, and as we got to talking about airflow I realized that the fan on my Hyper 212 EVO was pulling air through the heatsink ( I think that is the direction of the flow) and the case fan on the other side of that heatsink was pulling as well and they have been fighting each other. I know they should both flow the same way, my question is should I leave the fan on the side of the heatsink it is currently on and reverse airflow or should I put it on the opposite side of the heatsink? Actually I just realized that the clips are only on one side of fan so I can't do that. NEW question, I see a lot of pics with the fan on the side of the ram, covering it up. Isn't the air pulled through the heatsink by the fan and pushed into the case? If that is so and my case fan on the back is exhaust aren't they fighting each other? I am not at home or I would be investigating this stuff, I am at work entertaining myself on Linus' forums! Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Im rebuilding my GTX 1080 with the stock cooler the to test it and possibly send it off for repairs. I have Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut preapplied to the gpu die but need to know if the GTX 1080 Heatsink is made of Aluminium or is nickel coated copper? The reason being Conductonaut is Gallium based which eats through aluminium so you know, its kind of important to know before sticking the two together.
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Hello internauts: So recently I got myself an Adata SX8000 256GB NVME SSD (wow that's a lot of acronyms!). Before I installed OS and all other essentials, I decided to test its performance while it was still clean and new. I noticed that HW monitor was picking up some fairly high temps in the SSD (69°C), even while idle. After probing around with an IR thermometer, I discovered that the cache and memory were running at a healthy ~45°C, while the shiny controller was running at the aforementioned 69°C. While I know its within safe limits, I was wondering if that was impacting performance in some way. therefore I decided to do a little experiment by placing a small heatsink on the controller chip. I cut a section of a small aluminum heat sink I had laying around to match the dimensions of the controller. I wet sanded the bottom of the heatsink with a progressive grit increase until I got to 1200. Finally I proceeded to put some thermal compound between the chip and the heatsink and took it for a spin. The test were conducted with an ambient of 20.2°C according to my IR thermometer's calibration reading (using a thermistor). Both test were conducted within 20 minutes of each other. For both the system was allowed to rest for 10 minutes powered down. I was only running spy-bot SD at startup. The results are as follows: (left without heatsink and right with heatsink) The huge difference in the lows is probably caused by the extra mass of the heatsink, as it takes longer for it to heat up when starting the system cold. The max temps occurred when the drive was under test, and the temperature displayed as "value" was registered 5 minutes after the tests were conducted and are representative of idle temps. As you can see, there is a marginal improvement with the heatsink, both in terms of temps and performance. For sequential reads, the gains are 1.4%, for writes the improvements go up resulting in a 11.9% improvement. For 4K reads and writes the improvements are 0.05% and 0.1% respectively. In terms of thermals, the max is the same while the idle temps improve by 3.1%. Thanks for reading, should you have any questions I will gladly answer them. Also let me know if you think I should make this a permanent mod (use thermal adhesive instead of thermal grease). Cheers!
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