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As the picture is showing, even after formatting my drive resetting my system, my drive is still running at 100%. What are some methods that could help me fix this issue? Thanks in advance.

I just moved my hard disk to a new system and like 75 percent of the data is no longer there does anyone know how I can recover the data with all of the file directories still in tact?

I've been troubleshooting an old dying Windows XP laptop and tried to use one of these adapters to test the 2.5" IDE hard-drive on my desktop: https://www.microcenter.com/product/463322/vantec-ide-sata-to-usb-30-hard-drive-adapter I plugged it into the USB hub on my keyboard and as soon as I powered it up with this adapter it started clicking. The next time I plugged it into the laptop it was dead, unable to find the OS. It had been working fine in the laptop for months. Do you think this adapter damaged the drive, or was it just a coincidence? The drive was probably at least 15 years old after all. I want to make sure I don't damage anything else with this adapter. I have an old Plextor CD Drive that I want to use for low-speed burning, and I would hate to break something else.

ive had 3 new hard drives in the last month or so that have come in and when writing to them would get stuck at 100% usage with 0% read or write, idk if it could be a hdd issue because this has happened 3 times with new HDD's or if its a SATA issue or what it could be. its so hard to find any information on how this issue may be fixed, ive never seen anybody else have an error like this. video: https://streamable.com/r13756

I've build a new AMD PC and recently come across this problem where Windows thinks all or some HDD/SSD as a removable device and saw some places where you have to fiddle around with the Registry settings to make them 'Disappear'. BUT! There is another solution I've found. Go to the BIOS and look for SATA Configuration or settings. If Hot plug/SATA Port Hot Plug is enabled by default, Disable it. Save setting and restart and Problem solved. Hope this helps!

I have had this ssd for about 6 months now, its a 2tb ssd and one night after downloading a 30gb game while I was sleeping and it still wasnt half way when I woke up I knew there was a problem. When I origionally got it I could download games like GTA V in 30 minutes or less, its only about half full at the moment so any tips or advice would help. I am hoping I didnt just get a bad drive. 2TB are expensive lol Link too the amazon page I bought the drive off of in early 2021: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C3X2KSP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well of course I will use it, but before I start dumping in my precious, what should I do? What I mean by that is: Should I use some tool to check sectors? Or it is good enough to just format it (uncheck quick formatting)? Maybe check the SMART using CrystalDisk Info? Or maybe use Seatools to do a long generic? (Its a Seagate Iron Wolfe)

Hi, kinda newbie to the tech world here. I had two questions about hard-drive shucking... Does it work with any kind of external hard drive (for example, this is my hard drive: https://amzn.to/3og7Zv2), or does it have to be specifically larger external hard drives (for example: https://amzn.to/3I8DYFA)? Also, when watching tutorials on how to shuck hard drives, I learned that there is a pin on the hard drive itself you must cover up, as this pin controls the hard drive's power. However, in the tutorial, the hard drive had a button, while my hard drive (listed above) does not. Do I still have to cover up that pin? Thanks to anyone who helps.

So I have been helping a friend upgrade his PC and troubleshoot a random partial PC he was given. I tested the partial PC with some known good parts but did not bring a harddrive so I ran a live USB and everything was running smooth with a bit of a stress test. fast forward to yesterday and we start testing with his known good parts out of his old pc in the "test subject" and once again everything works fine. He just got another hard drive to throw in it and when we would try to boot it would just shut off after 30s-1minute. So we tried removing it and it worked fine again. so we decided to try just running with the new drive and a fresh windows install and once again it worked with no issues, but the second we try having both drives connected it will shut off again. The only thing I could think it might be is a power supply issue. We can't take the power supply out of his old PC because its some crappy dell "work pc" and I don't have an extra one laying around. Would I be correct in my assumption that it's a power supply issue?

Hey LTT community Need a tech tip here. I don't want to remove my archive drive all the time and noticed some hot-swap hard drive bay have power switches on them. As well as some "Hard drive power control" Rear I/O or Front bay panels. That makes me wonder. it is ok to only disconnect power cable (or turn the SATA power supply off using a switch)? I assume SATA DATA still have some power thought it and may cause trouble? Also FYI I am considering getting this hard drive bay, but never seen/used this brand before: Icy Dock DuoSwap MB971SPO-B - Storage Devices Case - 3.5" (3.5") https://www.amazon.com/ICY-DOCK-Tray-Less-Ultra-Slim-External/dp/B07B9GSK6M

This happens when I try to write to it. This happens when i try to scan for errors Some maps are readable, some are not I can't replicate it, but it sometimes shows 100% utilization on the drive, showing that system is using it and when looking at what specifically is using it it shows ntoskrnl.exe This is way beyond my league, any ideas on how could I fix this?

So I edit videos for my company using an M1 laptop, and recently I started to work at home on my W10. I was curious why some aspects of my PC are slower then the M1 when it comes to video editing, even when it comes to proxying my footage. I feel it must because of drives being scanned, even though I'm not using those drives for anything else, but it's just strange to me that it needs to do that. I run Adobe to edit most of my things. System Build (Copied from Speccy) Operating System Windows 10 Pro 64-bit CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600X RAM 32.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1053MHz (15-15-15-36) Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. X570 GAMING X (AM4) Graphics DELL U2312HM (1080x1920@60Hz) LG HDR 4K (3840x2160@60Hz) 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti (MSI) Storage 111GB SanDisk SDSSDA120G (SATA (SSD)) (USING FOR NOTHING RIGHT NOW) 1863GB Western Digital WDC WD2003FZEX-00Z4SA0 (SATA ) (Cloud storage for projects but not for video related ones) 447GB SATA SSD (SATA (SSD)) (Cache Drive for Projects) 232GB Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB (SATA (SSD)) (VM'S in the future but not being used right now) 931GB Western Digital WDC WD1003FZEX-00K3CA0 (SATA ) (Vidya) 953GB SPCC M.2 PCIe SSD (Unknown (SSD)) (Main OS, Video project main folder) 7452GB Western Digital WD My Book 25EE USB Device (USB (SATA) ) (Backup Drive) 1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20 EZRZ-00Z5HB0 SCSI Disk Device (USB (SATA) ) (HDD on a attached external drive bay, used for emulation but transferred to my backup drive in the mean time)

When I was building my Pc awhile back I put in an old hard drive that didn't have anything on it that I had gotten from school. Not too long ago my MOBO fried and I had to replace it, when I was setting everything back up I decided that I would just take out that drive since its not that big and its empty, although when I tried to boot after that I couldn't anymore. after a little bit I realized the for some reason my Pc needed that drive to boot Even though it isn't even the boot drive. I've tried to reformat it, I've gone into device manager and tried to uninstall it, I've gone into disk management to try to remove the partition from the drive and the delete option is greyed out. and a few other things. My Pc runs fine with the drive in but I'm afraid since its an old drive and probably been through it that it will fail and I wont be able to boot anymore. Does anyone know how to fix this or why its essential for my boot up? Specs: Windows 10 home 64 bit vr.10.0.190.41, Ryzen 5 3600, 32gb corsair vengeance pro ram, rx 5600xt, corsair cx750m power supply, 4tb WD hard drive, 250gb Samsung ssd, 160gb seagate Hard drive(problem drive) If I need to give more Information please lmk.

a bit of short story of how it happened: Last year I was plugging my WD Elements 25A2 2TB into my TV, played some gameplay recording on it then it froze. I decided to force unplug the external HDD but unfortunately after that the drive went unreadable when I plug it on my PC. I was thinking the drive is now totally unusable and decided to let it rest on my shelf, at least until 3 days ago I decided to plug the HDD to my TV again, and as it turns out it's still working, even all the files is still working and even the video that were froze when I played it, it's still fine and not corrupted. I was thinking that it's probably caused by bad cable (I used a new cable that was supposed for my other external HDD. When that happened last year it's using the WD included cable that already have issues where one wiggle can cause the drive to be unplugged) So I decided to switch to Linux (I'm using Manjaro) for a while because on Windows it's unreadable (disk management even wont load anything until I unplug the drive). It can be detected on KDE Partition Manager, however it wasn't and can't be mounted so the HDD not showing up on file explorer (Dolphin). Is there any way to force mount the drive? I'm a bit new to Linux (once tried Manjaro only to familiarize myself with it)

Hello guy ! Just bought a new WD My Passport but i find it awfull in this blue ... I want to paint it in this color or a similar one. How should i procede ? Should i sand it like a plastic model and then paint or paint directly onto the blue layer ? Does the type of paint I use matter ? Thanks and have a nice day ^^ !

I recently bought a dell r710 and I'm trying to put unraid on it. I was able to get unraid booted using the internal usb port but unraid is unable to see the 2 installed drives I put in the system. I've looked around and I've seen solutions where you have to go into PERC or the raid controller using ctrl+c or ctrl+r to configure the drives but nothing happens when I do that before the os starts. Also, I don't know if this matters, but the lights on the hard drive caddies are not turning on. They flash briefly on system boot but they don't turn on after that. I'd like to configure the array to JBOD so that unraid can handle the redundancy if possible. Thanks

I had a hard drive failure and I need to get a new one, decided to expand the storage while I'm at it and going from a 1TB (500gb was for games 500gb for storage) I'm looking to get a seperate 1TB for games/programs and a 2TB for storage. Due to a limited budget and specific needs the choice mostly comes down to 4 HDDs (1 for games/programs one for storage). The one for games/programs I don't need to be anything fast like an SSD or NVMe, the budget let's me choose between a 256gb SSD, 120gb NVMe or a 1TB HDD and anything under 1TB doesn't do it. The one for storage also due to budget limitations is mostly around 2TB HDDs and not high class professional storage models and an SSD/NVMe is far from the 2TB I need. The one for storage has to be as reliable as it can for the price. Currently the choice is between these: Games/programs HDD: Western Digital Blue 10EZEX 7200rpm 1TB vs Seagate Barracuda Pro ST1000LM049 7200rpm 1TB Storage: Western Digital Blue 20EZRZ 5400rpm 2TB vs Seagate SkyHawk ST2000VX015 (?rpm) 2TB I've always used Western Digital (Blue), I decided to research the difference between their Seagate equivalents in case they have advantages over WD's Blue and Green series and among the mixed reviews and experiences that vary from extremely good/bad experiences from both WD and Seagate the thing that is most common is that Seagate compared to WD is generally faster but at the cost of reliability. As I said there are good/bad and great/horrible stories for both brands, but the most frequent is that Seagate has faster but less reliable HDDs while WD has slower but more reliable HDDs. A bit of info that caught my attention is that Seagate HDDs aside from being less reliable in general, tend to fail suddenly and the chances of saving any files from them are quite low to none. I also read that WD has a different type of head for reading that doesn't physically touch the disk while the head in Seagates has physical contact, true or not the low reliability of Seagate is still a common comment everywhere ignoring the way the head reads the disk. So, which of this is more or less true? What would you suggest between these and maybe another choice (the choice between brands is low where I live, I think there are some Toshiba HDDs though I haven't looked them up and I'm not sure how available are any other brands for mechanical drives). The WD Blue 2TB 20EZRZ as I know is the old WD Green drive which was for storage purpose and I currently have that one, though I've got it a bit more than a year ago. The HDD for games/programs would probably be fine as either the WD Blue or Seagate Barracuda Pro (though the small speed difference isn't that important, a more reliable drive would be just a bit nicer), but the HDD for storage absolutely has to be the most reliable for that price range, the speed can be as slow as it needs like the usual 5400rpm but the files have to be as safe as possible (that's why the info that Seagate isn't as reliable and that the files can't be saved as easily or at all in case of a failure and the general bad reputation they have on reliability is pushing me away from buying Seagate for storage, but I'd like to hear thoughts about this) Thank you

Hello, I have a laptop hard drive that I pulled out of a PS4 after is was unable to boot into the console operating system. Reinstalling the OS on the drive was not working so I just replaced it. That part is immaterial though. I now have a 1tb hard drive just sitting around. I plugged it into my computer and ran crystal disc info to see what is going on. I got a drive reallocated sector count warning. The raw data number was 224. I have heard that this problem can "spread" although I am not sure if that is happening here yet because I have barely used the drive. I was wondering if I could store some old backup data to the drive and leave the drive unplugged. I also have that data in another spot but I'd still prefer redundancy. While I am not sure how it would get worse, I am just wondering if removing it from power will prevent further damage to the drive. Thanks, Alec

I was downloading a game on steam and after about 40 minutes of it downloading at 20mbs it all of a sudden dropped to 0 with occasional spikes up to 200kbs. Since then, I have been unable to have steam download any faster than that. Restarting the app or my computer will let it download at 20mbs for about a minute before it tanks again and drops to 0. My computer as a whole is slow, its slow to pause the download and slow to start the download as well. I tried downloading a game on Origin and it was about the same story. Started off around 20mbs and then just dropped until it was at 2mbs and stayed around there. I know it is not my wifi, my brother is downloading games fine and all speedtests are coming back good. I've done a virus scan and it came back clean as well. Someone please help, in my 4 years of using this computer I've never encountered this issue.

My external USB HDD will not show up at all in any applications on one of my Windows 10 PCs while 2 other PCs, one running Windows 11 and one running Windows 10, detect it just fine and allow full use of the drive. On the PC it doesn't work on, it will not show up in File Explorer, Disk Management or Device Manager. I have tried using other working USB ports without success. The enclosure is still receiving power as the light shows up on the enclosure and, when initially plugged in, I am able to feel the HDD spinning. No guides online have helped me with this problem.

Is it possible to wipe my current drive and use it as a secondary drive for my new pc and use an SSD as a primary drive? edit: and how

I have a Hp 240 Gb SSD. I had windows installed and running on that drive, one day automatic disk repair started and I turned my laptop off while that was running, which I regret because afterwards, it just wouldn't boot and show some error. After many failed attempts, I connected that drive using sata to usb to another working pc and found that it was being shown as a nameless "Raw" drive with 240 GB storage. I couldn't quick format it, got error codes, couldn't long format it, got stuck at "99%" twice. But when I try to recover lost data using disk genius, my data becomes accessible (not like I need the data anyway) . So why can I find the lost data but still not format the drive in any way possible? (Drive shows as a "Raw" "Healthy" "223 gb" "blank info" under list disk in Cmd) how do I format the SSD?

I am currently re-downloading csgo on my hard drive and realized it says I'm downloading at 13-20MB/s, I know this could be because of the steam but I believe it's not, since it said I had a peak of 72MB/s for some reason and usually I download games at 54-57MB/s. Could my hard drive be a bottleneck maybe? edit : I have a 7200 rpm drive.

Hi I recently purchased a drive and after less than 2 weeks it is starting to make weird noises and the drive will not mount in Unraid. What do you think is wrong with the drive? Sad Drive Noise.mp4

Hello everyone, I got some birthday money so I'm thinking about upgrading a component of my PC. Currently I have an M.2 SSD running as a boot drive but I use a mechanical hard drive where I've installed my games. Would upgrading that drive to an SSD be beneficial at all? Thank You