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My solution for fitting a full-size graphics card and a drive cage in the fractal design core 1000...

So this might be a bit of an odd question to ask, but I figured I would ask anyway. In the near future I'm planning to upgrading from my old 3570k CPU and I've been playing with the thought of buying a Define R6 along with it. The thing is currently I have everything running in a Define R4 case which I bought two years ago and is still in perfect condition. Honestly I love the R4, I removed the upper drive-cage and my thermals are okay, the CPU is cooled by a Dark Rock 3 and my GPU is a Palit 1070 Dual which is a bit loud but that's down to the card itself. Over the past months I really fell in love with the whole idea of tempered glass cases and really working on the insides of my rig, I'm even contemplating jumping fully on the RGB train, moving my PC from below to onto my desk and have it double as a semi-serious desk light but I feel like I would add 150€ to my upgrade expenses for something that isn't really worth 150€ all things considered. I watched many reviews about the R6 already but haven't found any direct comparison between the R4 and the R6. Would I lose any noticeable real-world performance on the noise-damping and thermal front? I know the long drive-array of the R6 can't be removed and I watched Luke's workshop video on airflow but I still feel like I might lose out on something. Also could it be that the white variant of the R6 still isn't available in Europe? I only see the various black colors in online-shops. Thanks for any input in advance

(Build log) ShinyRyzen Mark I(II) Fractal-OK-edition Yes.. I know, I have busted my naming standard already… And why are you posting so much?! Here’s my stories - Mark I and Mark II Yeah.. I know. Something happened. I grew tired of heat and sound pollution when trying to use Handbrake to convert my stream-recordings into a workable format for lightworks. Also, I did not enjoy trying to fry some of the chipsets on the motherboard since they ran quite hot, even if the cpu “only” touched 72 degrees C-ish while full load and the same-ish story for the graphics… So mr fancypants - what did you do? Well mate - I of course ran out and bought a new motherboard, a new case (and also, new memory and a new ryzen 5 1600 for the old Phanteks case… Later on that in another build log ). Why you ask AGAIN? Easy peasy. I wanted something that I could overclock in, that had a better soundprofile (ie - keeps a steady humm even at full load..). And, I actually hit the spots all over! But, nevermind - here’s the revisited Mark I setup dubbed ShinyRyzen Mark I(II) Fractal-OK-edition (OverKill) … Parts bought: Fractal Design Meshify C -TG Fractal Design Celsius S36 Water Cooling 360mm Seasonic PRIME 850W Gold ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F Gaming Wait.. just wait.. Did I just buy the “older” and cheaper version of the ITX motherboard? Yes, yes I did. No, it lacks the latest and greatest USB version, it lacks wifi and bluetooth, and still just a sad B350 chipset. And I am ok with that - I now have PCIe slots to populate besides the one the graphic card eats up. And yes, my naming scheme really needs to go to the hospital. And that Celsius S36 .. Man, I did not think that through completely.. Or did I? IT SHOULD FIT! Enough rambling. Parts moved over includes then (full list I started with in Mark I link above); AMD Ryzen 7 1800X - 8C/16T / 3,6/4,0GHz / 4MB L2 / 16MB L3 cache / 95W G.Skill Trident Z Silver/red 32GB (2x16GB) / 3200MHz / DDR4 / CL14 / F4-3200C14D-32GTZ Samsung SSD 960 EVO 500GB (MZ-V6E500BW) ASUS ROG STRIX GTX1080 8GB 2 additional older screens (LG something something (cost me around $100 US several years ago brand new..) So, great. What did I bork out with now? Well - CLEARANCE - the main part causing my issues in the phanteks case to begin with! Belive me when I say the Fractal Design Meshify C -TG is so darn pretty.. But had the hatch not been removable to fit the S36 in the front … And some “clever” modding carried out - it almost spelled disaster when I put it together - The GTX 1080 did NOT shrink just because I bought a slightly bigger case. Odd that… However, I now humm away in idle CPU temps with a base of 3.85Ghz at around 29-30 C (room temp around 21 I figure) and at full load, I can touch 62 C with the GTX bobbing along around the same while pushed to full load as well. A slight improvement - and while the “surfmode” can be improved a bit (fan tuning undergoing), workhorse mode is awesome. Sound? Well, since I cheaped out for the moment getting silent case fans, it is noticable - but still better than before - lower pitch humm.. better for my bad hearing ;). Sadly, I also decided to redo the cabling below the desk. This ended up with a order from amazon of a xl mouse pad since I made holes from bottom to surface.. (DOH!). But, it added to the super-awesome Frantic-OK! I smile everytime I look at this now (granted, I did almost kill the GTX 1080 with a sneaky cable that stopped one of the fans and causing quite a bad situation until I located it (tinted glass awesome-ish). Enjoy the pictures!

Hi Everyone! I really need your ideas and suggestions here. I'm currently limited to vertical heatsink alignment of Hyper 212 Led Turbo for my Ryzen 5 1600 (oc 3.825 @1.388v). On my idea#1, it is my current set up, where my GPU is currently OC and with that set up, the hot air from GPU is absorbing by the hyper212 and applying it to the heatsink. Since my chip is OCd, it also heats up the heatsink and being blown upwards of the case. Temps on my CPU during idle is around 38c, but jumps up to 58-61c + during gaming or load. I know that temps is still reasonably stable, but to think that my aircooler can still lower temps of CPU, i'm starting to think on other fan orientations. I haven't done this yet, but on Idea#2 i will switch the blow path of hyper212 below the GPU, and push all hot air down to the case. This might cool off my CPU during load but the GPU will be heated up in exchange. PSU and 1 exhaust fan will blow out the hot air, but that might be a bad idea because i have too many intake than exhaust. It might also make me uncomfortable because my mouse is close to the exhaust. my last option, idea#3, will include a metal work. I might be able to pull this off with just some grinding and welding. First, i will create a new bracket for AM4, that will allow my CPU cooler to be oriented vertically, which will blow the hot air at the back of my case. creating a non-corrosive bracket seems to be a easy job since i just need to measure the lenght of the screwholes on my motherboard, then insert the bolts that intel processor use and use the homemade bracket. my problem is, i'm not sure it this will work or not since i haven't see anyone done this and post it online. but i will give it a try. The metal that i will be using is an aluminum bar that i found on our storage. It was not used before and it does not have any rust build up on it. Let me know which idea is best, or any suggestions before i proceed to warm up my grinders and drills.

Hey, Just thought i would show off my Rig after redoing the water cooling loop, adding second GPU and putting in a new mobo. It's my gaming pc/mining rig, usually mine during the night and while i'm at work and making around 20-25$USD per week. Rig Specs: - Ryzen 1700 @ 3.7GHZ - Gigabyte X370 Gaming K7 - 16GB Corsair LPX 3000mhz - MSI Gtx 970 gaming - Asus Gtx 970 Strix - 500GB Samsung 850 SSD - Evga 750w Supernova which i could of had 2 of the same gpu water block Brand that way they would align properly or look better, but paying only 31$ for a used EK block was better than full price, gets the job done. how the pc use to look before the upgrades

Hello everyone! I know it's a new release and most of the people didn't have the chance to actually see and test the case, but I was wondering if I can fit a 280mm rad on top in the Definre R6 case. I have a Asus TUF Mark I Z270 board and Dominator Platinums from Corsair. Currently I have a Define C and I'm very pleased with it, the thing is that I can't fit my H115i rad on top (280mm) couse it hits the thermal armour on my motherboard. I watched alot of reviews and I took measurements but I'm still not sure if I can fit that rad. Does anyone have any ideea? Thanks in advance.

Hello. For about a month now I have been looking at three cases in particular. The Define R6, H700i and the be quiet dark base 700. I plan on using the NH-U14S TR4 cpu cooler with the zenith extreme motherboard. Which case is the better case in your opinion? I prefer silence and decent temps over a loud pc with good temps if it makes sense. Thank you in advance for your help.

So... I took my stuff out of my Define XL R2 and moved it to a HAF XB EVO. I did this because the XL was just too large for my space, and I really like the more cubic design of the HAF, but... Oh, the cable management! It was very hard to get all my stuff routed under the Mobo and around the sides, even with a fully modular EVGA G3 PSU. Just a head's up for anyone considering the CoolerMaster case.

Dearest fellow LTT fans and American and Canadian cousins from another continent, For some reason the Node 804 isn't in stock anywhere, not even Amazon, till March but I have the rest of my components ready to go. So here I am asking for alternatives for the Node 804 for this build [I'm adding the gpu and ssd in the near future] as I would very much like to be removed from the grasp of my nearly 5 year old Asus stock computer that I upgraded [Intel i3-3240t - Asus GT 740 - 2x8gb Corsair Vengence DDR3 2333mhz - The case, mobo, and psu aren't available separately]. Really I don't need the 10 HDD's + 2 SSD's + optical drive and watercooling availability that the Node 804 has but I am making the entire computer with upgradeability in mind without spending over £100 including delivery. Thank you for your suggestions, Cabal

Got my Define R6 delivered yesterday so I got a build busted out for it! Still waiting for my TFT screen to come in but that will be installed on the internal panel to act as a resource monitor. Also waiting for the riser cable to release so I can vertically mount the GPU but here she is so far- Intel core i7 7700k OC at 5.0 Asrock Z270 Killer SLI Gigabyte gtx 1070 (ref card) EVGA 750G PSU 3 Corsair HD120’s 2 corsair RGB light strips Corsair H100i v2 NZXT sentry 3 fan controller Geil 32gbs DDR4 (x2 16gb)

Hi guys, pretty new to the forum as well as into the custom PC world, so do be forgiving!Anyways, just want to hear your views about a few PC case from the above mentioned brands! Currently, my ideal options are as followed (order by their price, from low to high):Phanteks- P300 TG (~S$85)- P400s TG (~S$125) Fractal Design- Define Mini C (~S$140)NZXT- S340 Elite (~S$160)However, as I'm unable to decide as of now which to get, I would like to ask if any of you on the forum has any experience with any of the above listed case. If so, can you please share your "mini review" on performance of each case, especially on areas about the case's acoustics, cooling performance/airflow, cable management, or even the aesthetics of it. Thank you!

Hi! Today I helped my friend build his computer but when everything was assembled we couldn't power it up. The GPU seems to be getting power as there is a small light on it. There doesn't seem to be an LED light on the motherboard so it's hard to know if it is getting power or not. Here are the components: Motherboard: Gigabyte B350 GA-AB350M-HD3 PSU: Fractal Design Integra M 550W Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 3GB DUAL OC Case: Fractal Design Define R4 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1500X 3.6 GHz 18MB RAM: Kingston 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 2400MHz Fury Black SSD: Toshiba OCZ TR200 240GB We have tried replugging the power cables to the cpu and powerboard, reseating the RAM and the power button cable from the front panel. The power led doesn't turn on and no fans are moving. I read that I could try shorting the pins to the power button but how can I do that? Could I just try connecting the two pins with a screwdriver? I really hope the motherboard isn't fault as that would be a pain in the ass.

I purchased a Meshify C as the case for my new build and am trying to determine the best cooling setup. Would a Corsair H115i fit in the Meshify C (top mount) and not collide with an Asus ROG Crosshair VI? One video suggested that the edge of the radiator would collide with the IO shroud, so I'm nervous about ordering one. Or would the H100i V2 be a better fit in the case? Thank you for any help you can give!

I've just bought a Define R5 case and I'm trying to decide where to put my radiators. I've attached my two options (except I'm keeping the optical cage and using two 240mm rads). Does bottom or front mount radiator position have any benefit over one another? 1. I imagine bottom would have better airflow because of the door (would have to suck from around the edges of the door like my Antec P150). 2. Filter cleaning would be roughly the same - they can both easily be changed from the front. 3. Bottom mount leaves me with the question of where to mount the reservoir/pump. Front mount I can use the HDD cage as a stand. 4. Bottom mount means a max PSU length of 165mm which rules out a lot of my 750W+ options, not to mention room for the modular plugs. 5. Bottom might get dirtier being so close to the carpet (it's sitting on plastic carpet protector at the moment). 6. Would bottom be easier/harder to drain? The radiators have ports on both sides so one could go straight out the underside if I drill a hole, but then I couldn't really do a valve or anything. Thoughts?

Hi there! I was just wondering how much of a differance in both sound and temperature upgrading from "Fractal Design Silent Series R3 120mm" to "Noctua NF-P14s redux-900 140mm" Is it even worth upgrading? -Thanks!

Okay... we all know it. The Noctua fans on the 14 and 15 (and their corresponding stand-alone versions) are aesthetically... uhm... challenging. Thusly, my question. Those of you that are particular about color schemes and who have chosen the Noctua brown fans, what did you do with the rest of your build (memory, cables, lighting, etc) to make these things more pleasing to look at? Now, I am using a closed case (no window), but I still am OCD about the colors, and knowing that the brown will show in the fan vents, I want color ideas for my build. I am using the MSI Z270 MGaming Titanium MOBO with the Noctua fans. I could swap to the Industrial versions, but I feel like that's a complete waste of money. Ideas?

To those who have/had a Fractal Design Core 1300 case, I need the measurements of the side panel. I will be upgrading and making some modifications to my brother's 2-year old pc as a surprise early Christmas gift, and one mod in particular is making a side panel out of plexiglass/acrylic sheet. But I need the correct size of the side panel so I can cut and prepare the plexiglass/acrylic. I can't find a Core 1300 case that I can measure near where I live, and websites just show the measurements of the whole case, not the side panel Any help will be very much appreciated

To those who have/had a Fractal Design Core 1300 case, I need the measurements of the side panel. I will be upgrading and making some modifications to my brother's 2-year old pc as a surprise early Christmas gift, and one mod in particular is making a side panel out of plexiglass/acrylic sheet. But I need the correct size of the side panel so I can cut and prepare the plexiglass/acrylic. I can't find a Core 1300 case that I can measure near where I live, and websites just show the measurements of the whole case, not the side panel Any help will be very much appreciated

Just got a Fractal Design Define XL R2. This comes with three stock 140mm fans, but potential placement for seven 140mm fans. I think the stock fans are underpowered/underperforming for my 7700K and 1080ti, so what would you guys recommend as far as performance (with a bend toward quiet) as replacements?

so I'm thinking of putting together some parts I have laying around and wondering if 350$ is a good price. fractal design core 1000 AMD phenom ii x4 955 be 8gb ram ddr3 we black 1tb hdd 460w 80plus psu gigabyte gtx470 super oc

Not too long ago I've made a simillar thread asking about which should I get - Fractal Design Integra M or Seasonic M12II. I was told that seasonic is an old model and better not purchase it anymore. However the fractal design 550w is no longer available and I must go with the more expensive 650w Integra m. And now I'm wondering if I should spend 163 BGN on Fractal Design Integra M 650W or 179BGN on Seasonic Focus Plus SSR-650FX 650W. I know it's more than enough wattage for my system(ryzen 5 1600, gtx 1060), but availability is problem and these are probably my best choices in this price range. If you have any other suggestions they are welcome, I'll see if they are available. tl;dr - Seasonic Focus Plus SSR-650FX 650W or Fractal Design Integra M 650W

Hi there. I have a fractal design define r4 case for like 3-4 years and its rear and front fans started to make some nasty noise. It's like some 'trrrrr' and 'aghhhh' sounds. As you have already guessed, I'm willing to replace them, but I don't wanna go with something rubbish, neither I wanna spend much on this. So, the question is, what are some best bang for the buck silent fans nowadays? Thanks.

So... I wanted to buy a new pc for black friday, i bought the parts, i5-8600k, Asus z370-F, Fractal Design Meshify C, Asus Strix 1070 ti, Fractal Design Celsius S36, and so on. I ordered them. I had done a lot of research, but not enough i guess. I found out, that you cant fit a 298mm long asus strix board and a 30mm rad with 25mm fans in the Meshify C. So, is there a solution for that, or should i just buy a new case, (the meshify was not on sale) or can i mod something that all would fit well. Thanks

Please read before replying with "Just hold the stand-off and then unscrew the screw from the other side". I can't do that. I bought a Fractal Design R6 and a Gigabyte motherboard, I had to remove one of the stand-offs that came pre-installed with the case because maybe some of you know Gigabyte puts one of their holes in the wrong place. Anyway, I removed it and put it back where it should be and installed the motherboard. Thing is then I wanted to take the motherboard out to be 110% sure that I there weren't any other stand-offs hitting the board. I checked before like 5 times, but I'm paranoid and wanted to check again. I'm sure there aren't any stand-offs hitting it, but again I'm paranoid. Thing is when I tried to take the motherboard out, one of the screws unscrewed the stand-off. Not the one I installed, but the one on the left side, the one where the PCI slots are. I tried to unscrew it but it kept making noises, like a pop, so I stopped. I tried to take the motherboard out, but it's stuck. So I assume the screw is stuck in the stand off while the stand off is stuck in the case. I can't psychically reach the stand off to hold it in place so I can unscrew it. How do I remove it? How can I take the motherboard out without damaging it? Do I just have to unscrew the screw which will force the stand-off to unscrew itself and then be careful while pulling the motherboard?

So I'm pretty decided on using an mATX case of some sort, preferably a cube case because I like the horizontal motherboard layouts and dislike the GPU sag that often comes with vertical layouts. BUT, I'm hearing not-much-but praise for the Fractal Design Node 804. Up until now my choice has been the Thermaltake Core V21, but pitted against of the Node 804 - and the discovery of the Mnpctech GPU support bracket - I'm not quite so sure anymore. Anyone have any experience with these two cases? Any other case suggestions are welcome too.