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  1. Hi, I was using my computer today and I was listening to music, Suddenly the music stops and my computer says that the internet was plugged out (i was using a phone hotspot with usb) and then it re-connected itself and then I continued to listen to music and my headset lets off a very loud glitchy type sound and keeps doing it every few seconds. And then whilst that was happening my keyboard and mouse just shut off, I tried unplugging and plugging back in the keyboard mouse and headset but they had all just stopped working, no lights or anything. I had restarted my computer and the headset was still making glitching sounds but my keyboard and mouse were working. after changing my audio to the speakers from the headset and then back, There is no more glitchy sounds coming from the headset but as i am typing this my internet is disconnecting and re connecting over and over. If anyone knows what is the issue please help Computer Specs MOBO: MSI Gaming 990FXA-GAMING CPU: AMD FX(tm)-8350 Eight-Core Processor. OC @ 4.20 GHz COOLER: Corsair - H75 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler RAM: 16 GB (8gb in pc right now as motherboard was not working with 16gb)GPU: ASUS ROG STRIX GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI OC EDITION PSU: Cooler Master - 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply CASE: NZXT S340 Elite - White Peripherals Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Chroma X Mouse: Razer Lancehead TE Mercury White Edition Headset: Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 Mercury Edition Monitor: Acer GN246HL Bbid 24-Inch 3D Gaming Display 144Hz
  2. Apologies this will be long winded, 2 pcs both with dead boards 90%+ certain First pc (life line to everything), cpu: i5 3750 (?) motherboard: asus p8z77 premium ram: 16gb (4xdimm) 1600 corsair psu: (was bequiet modular 1000w - fried) now evga 750w modular gpu: amd radeon 7850 2gb x 2 (crossfire) System was custom built by myself roughly 7 years ago, has run perfectly being on mostly 24/7. Last week I came back to it after 10 minutes to find no display, case led showed power but there was a very obvious electrical buzzing from case, most likely psu. I initially tried a reset, same thing, tried once more then powered off. Left it awhile, came back tried to power on, nothing at all, no power, no fans, no beeps, no lefds, absolutely nothing. Immediate thoughts are dead psu. Second time I tried to power it flipped the circuit breaker immediately. There was no electrical burning smell or obvious signs of damage other than the electrical buzzing which ceased prior as above. Everything was connected to a surge protector which had no obvious damage and was still powering other devices without issue. Ordered new psu which arrived few days later. Inspected inside case abit closer and could see no obvious signs of damage, not to psu or board, no blown capacitors etc.. Removed old psu, tested with paper clip method, no response. Tested new psu prior to installing, fan powered on fine. Installed new psu, still nothing, absolutely nothing. Removed ine component at a time retesting each time, nothing all the way down to just psu and board. So dead board? It occurred to me afterwards I hadnt actually even heard the new psu fan come on despite testing prior. Removed new psu, retested, nothing.. so now im thinking has this coincidentally died or suffered damage due to faulty board also? Retested old psu (on its own) it blew straight away so fairly adamant that was initial or atleast part of problem. So now im at a slight loss as i havent delved into pc hardware building or repairs since marriage/kids. Assumed new psu wasnt actually dead and maybe wasnt firing because it needed something extra to get it going. Reinstalled to board and fans, still nothing. Reset cmos, nothing, hard reset cmos, nothing, replaced cmos battery, nothing. Assuming board is totally dead along with old psu, new psu still question mark. At this point I dont have the resources to do any further testing. Purchased a cheap compatible system, primrarily to get me up and running, I was considering doing a full in restore of old to new but had a few worries especially as to source(s) Of damage and not wanting to blow another system. Also heavily concerned with data loss as I stupidly did not have a full backup but kept private file backup in a HDD attached to same sytem (i know stupid but life hasnt thrown me many bones lately to contend with it appropriately. New system had a gigabyte z77 board, so i tested old system ram, gpus and ssd/hdd All appeared to be fine except one of the gpu which was emitting a static display when connected (hdmi) havent tried dvi but second test was black screen. Not the end of the world but something too look into later. Now my big issue is with ssd(s). I had 4 plus an msata in old system, one was OS samsung 850 256gb which is my only data concern. 2 x samsung 850 in raid 0 (?) which was just software games (not too worried). Wont go into too much detail and will probably do separate post in appropriate forum but basically concern, after alot of research is how to get old system back up amd running due to constraints with moving ssds into new system. From what Incan gather my best bet is replacing dead motherboard with the same one or similar to bypass driver concerns and hope it just picks up off where it left assuming theres no deeper damage to ssd. Ssds are detected in new system but deemed unallocated, i dont want to initialise or do anything that could cause damage or wipe data. Ok, if you got his far, thanks, ive been pulling my hair out and really losing it so far. So my queries; 1) What else could I do to establish what the overall damage to old system is? Especialy to the board, its bugging me as theres no obvious signs of damage. Would it be worth buying/replacing bios chip? Is it worth taking the board itself. To someone to see if it can be repaired? Whilst the obvious answer is probably no, my next dofficulty is replacing this board. Its damn near impossible to find and comes with a ridiculous cost and only overseas. 2) Replacing the board with similar? In view of attemtping to revive existing system this appears to be my next best move? How similar do boards have to be for there to be a decent chance of this working assuming the ssd / os isnt buggered? Theres plenty of variations of asus p8z77 im just unsure on what my limitations would be and how varied, if at all bios and drivers would be. 3) would any old z77 socket 1155 board carry just the same chance? I understand that i could sily pre-load board drivers during resetup but my concern and lack of knowledge around ssd issues prevents me going forward here. Ultimately what is my best option of reviving my system? i will leave other pc for now as this isnoverwhelming, thank you Edit: 4) i havent tested old cpu in new system, if cpu was faulty could this cause damage to new system (hence why i havent tried)?
  3. Hi LLT Community! So I'm a long time fan of Linus' videos and I take his reviews really seriously. This is my first post and unfortunately it's because of a bad experience. Maybe I'm just trying to vent. Hopefully I can warn others about a bad brand and bad product. Based on his review of Razer products and specifically the first Razer Blade Stealth, I purchased a stealth for myself back in mid 2016. The first Blade Stealth I got had a broken camera. I RMAed it and they had no issues and sent me a brand new laptop after 2 more weeks of waiting. The second laptop was fine until the fan started going crazy and it would occasionally blue screen when its been on for a while. I contacted Razer again and they walked me through basically a reset process. That still didn't fix the issue. They asked me to RMA it. Now here's where I messed up. I did not RMA it because I needed the laptop for the next few weeks. I didn't want to wait 2 weeks for my laptop to get fixed or replaced. So I held off and dealt with the blue screens and loud fan. (Big mistake) This past December the fan stopped working. I was fed up so I contacted them again. They told me they would take it in but they'd have to charge me since its now out of warranty. So I bit the bullet and sent it in. Today they came back with my repair quote of $850. The laptop itself cost was $1000. They said there were issues with the motherboard and battery. (See attached) I'm not sure what they expect. Do people actually pay that? Why would I ever do that? To get the laptop back (after paying 30 bucks to ship it there) they want to charge me a 130 dollar diagnostic fee. I am at a loss for words. My last laptop lasted me 9 years with no issues. I thought I was upgrading. Any helpful advice from the community? TL;DR Razer sent me two bad laptops Second laptop was out of warranty Razer is charging me 850 dollars to repair a 1000 dollar laptop. Razer sucks. I need to vent. -Espy
  4. Hey guys again! So here's this video I just made, I heard a weird cracking sound when playing OW, but as soon as I exit the game, it stopped. Any idea what could it be? It happens everytime I start the game, and it really annoys me. https://imgur.com/a/xKct4 PS: Only happens when starting OW (I have battlerite running in the background and also started other games, but everything seems normal except OW) I already had several issues with my GPU, maybe it's that? Here's my other thread about this faulty (imo) GPU, and I'm not sure what to do with. Maybe I'll just sell it...
  5. Hello forum! So I have this weird issue going on for a long time. Since I got so many peripherals that my motherboard's USB ports are full if I want to plug in everything, sometimes 1 or 2 of them just stop working. First it started with the mouse, it completely switched off, no light, couldn't move, until I plugged out and in. Thought it's the mouse's fault, but when I plugged in on the top of the computer's USB port, everything was normal. Then I switched the USB's everything was fine, and now it started with the keyboard. Lights are on, but I can't type anything until I plug out and out, switch a few USBs. Once again, if I plug this on the top of my PC usb ports, everything works wonderfully. Is it that my motherboard's USB ports are so overloaded that sometimes it stops working. Or what could be this issue? Please help. PC specs:-Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-S2H-Processor: i5-4460 3.2ghz-GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 windforce -RAM: 16gb DDR3 Patriot, Adata-HDD: 1TB Seagate Baracuda-SSD: 250gb Samsung 850 EVO-Power supply: Super Flower 550W
  6. So a while ago i got a hard drive for school, since i chose game design to study - meaning i needed a lot of storage. I got a 1tb WD External Hard Drive and after 4 months, it stopped working. But it kind of didn't stop working. In college, i used 7 different computers in college, a fuck ton of different USB ports, and 3 different cables (one was new) and the computer's weren't recognising my hard drive. it was getting powered as indicated from the light, but it just wasn't being recognised. The same story at home... Except, when i put it through the usb port in my keyboard it works perfectly fine. And i'm baffled. I haven't dropped it, there's no sound that is coming out of the hard drive, the motor sounds like it's working but... just dont work in computers, just a Corsair keyboard...
  7. Hi everyone! My first time on forum.. usually just a fan,... Anyway... I started building a pc for a friend... Gigabyte AB350M hd3 mbo... Ryzen 5 1500x... and MSI gtx 1060 3gb.. All working well... sort of gtx is not recognized anyhow.. just as a basic display adapter... I cannot install drivers as it says that device is not found... In device manager I tried uninstalling it .. and again... no results as it finds it as basic adapter... Any ideas what could I try? Thanks in advance for your help!
  8. Hello, I am writing out of confusion. About 2 weeks ago, after having many BSODs, I decided to test each of my ram sticks with memtest86. One of the ram had hundreds of errors and so I decided to return it for a replacement as that meant it was broken. After a frickin week of waiting for it to arrive at it's destination, another 5 days pass and voila it's today. The store's technician who is checking the ram to verify that it is broken calls me and tells me that they have found no problems, keep in mind they used memtest86 as that's what I told them to use. That's impossible, I say because I did find errors. But he told me that they tested them together, which didn't make any sense because I also tested them together and found problems, now that I'm writing it I wonder if they he tested them in single channel, idk if that will make a difference but I am just wondering, so I told him to check each one alone and he said he would do that. Anyways, out of fear that I spent 2 weeks in my old slow laptop for nothing, I searched what happens if I have a bad dimm slot. None of the "symptoms" applied to my case. I am just wondering if they are scamming me or I am wrong.
  9. hey guys i recently purchased a 50 inch Samsung 4k tv and had a lot of graphical glitches with it so i sent the tv back and bought a benq 32 inch 4k monitor bl3201pt. i am still getting the same errors. The problems that i am having are that i get white flickering pixels in dark areas, the screen goes black for a few seconds at a time but can do it 5 times in a row. i get red blocks of pixels when i had GeForce experience open. sometimes it won't show my right clicks but they are still open, drop down menus won't show up when clicked but if i click one of the options that should be there the computer still recognises it and for example opens the settings of the program. my rig has a 5820k and 2x 980ti all custom loop. windows 10 64bit http://au.pcpartpicker.com/b/h94CmG i have tried removing all graphic drivers, reinstalling them, i have tried 3x HDMI cables and 1x DP-HDMI cable. i seem to be running 2560x1440 fine but have a lot of problems when in 4k. i am thinking about changing the order of my 980ti tomorrow. maybe the HDMI port is faulty. i live in Australia and it's 10pm right now so if i get a reply and don't say anything, it is because I'm asleep.
  10. So I have been running into small issues up to now, little crash and reboot here, error there, nothing that worried me. I have been trying to fix a crashing issue that I didn't think much of, so I ran some tests and I thought it was my PSU. I thought this because I could reproduce the error if I loaded the CPU and the GPU at the same time. It would crash and reboot. I was going to request RMA of my power supply today but I realized I hadn't run mem test yet. So I said why not and ran it. It ran through once and gave no errors. Went for the second pass and it locked up. Full system hang. It didn't give an error just a freeze. After I did a bit of research I think it might be the CPU's memory controller. If anyone could confirm this or give me something else to test or try I would be grateful. Thanks in advance! SPECS! i7 6800k Asus X99A Usb 3.1 Kingston HyperX DDR4 2133 MHz (XMP) 32GB 4x8Gb (I bought the kits at separate times so maybe this has something to do with it although I doubt it as they were bought about a month or two apart) GTX 660 EVGA 750 watt semi-modular PSU (B2 or something like that)
  11. So my laptop started doing random hiccups a couple weeks after i got some new ram. It is a old IBM Thinkpad T40, very trusty machine running win xp. I ran memtest86 and it gave me the following results: What should i do? I still have the old 1gb kit. I bought the new one on ebay for 9.50€. The system doesn't crash or anything, just small hiccups from time to time. I use the laptop for old games on the go, it works nicely for that. Should i try figuring out which one of the two sticks is faulty, and replace that with a 512mb stick? Would that work as it is ddr1? Does someone know what causes this error and how severe it is?
  12. I have a Asus GTX970 Strix and it has been running well for the last year and a half or so but for the last month or so the Nvidia driver will sometimes crash and then all screens will go black, sometimes it will recover and other times it will crash my PC. I have checked Event logs and can see that the last thing that failed was the Nvidia display driver. I have tried clean installs of the drivers and rolling back to older drivers but nothing has made a difference. In an attempt to figure it out i tested the PSU to see if it was maybe dropping voltage but all the pins are outputting at 12.6V ( what it should be.) the only thing that i can think of is that the power fault is in the GPU but cant think of a way to test it at all. Is there any way that you may know if to work this out or to test anything more? Any help would be good as this is really annoying. Thanks.
  13. Hey LTT forum, Let me tell you my story of how I ended up with a faulty power supply and THREE Broken GPU's to my name. So sit back relax and half way through to to the toilet because your bladder is unpredictable. Ok, Coming up to my 16th birthday my parents decided to be awesome and let me build my own computer. I had already built their computer they now use as an office computer to replace the dying Windows XP desktop they had since 2005. This turned out great as they ended up with a quiet and reliable computer that suited their needs. I want to point this out so people don't think i'm an inexperienced kid who gets to play around with his daddy's credit card. Anyway because I live in New Zealand I ended up with a pretty basic but still beefy computer that could handle my school work and gaming needs. Intel i5-6400 CPU ASRock H110M-DGS MOBO Seagate 1tb HDD Zalman R1 Case AMD Radeon R7 370 GPU and The Faulty as hell: Antec VP500P PSU All for just under $1000. Yes $1000 Dollars. No one said New Zealand was cheap. I mean we live just above Antarctica. Anyway I had done a lot of study on Power Supplies due they connect everything and an Antec PSU sounded like the safest and cheapest good PSU I could buy. After buying and putting together everything problems started occurring instantly. The computer would randomly freeze at idle and when the GPU was put under any kind of load pixels on the screen would freak out. I thought the freezing was linked to a GPU that I must have got to off to Asus RMA (BTW: Who are very responsive and nice) and sent it off through the retailer that I had got it from and continued to use the computer. But to my dismay the freezing was still happening. I had not expected it at any point and neither did the users at Toms Hardware that the Antec PSU was faulty. So i had sent my CPU back for RMA and new one had come back. At the same time a new R7 370 had come back from RMA diagnosing that the old one was in fact faulty. But as soon as i installed the new GPU and drivers the GPU had instantly died. The computer wouldn't boot up with it and no signal would be displayed when connected to other computers plus windows couldn't detect it. The freezing was still happening and I plus others had been lead to the conclusion that the motherboard had been causing all the issues. This began round to of RMA by sending another faulty GPU back to the retailer and also getting an RMA on the Motherboard from another retailer. The motherboard had come back first and the freezing was still happening. I was starting to expect that maybe it was a driver issue causing this. The freezing would occur when doing next to nothing with the computer and only way to fix it was a hard reboot. The GPU had also came back and the retailer had wanted to install it themselves as this was they were getting suspicious. As they were inspecting my power supply I had come to a final conclusion that the problem wasn't in the components but the Power Supply. They had installed the GPU with the old power supply and sent me on my way One Overnight shipping package later my new power supply came: A FSP Group 500W HEXA+. With 5 Million Dollar component warranty. As soon as swapping the power supply the freezing stopped. But the damage to the GPU had been done. The third GPU had been royally raped my GPU leaving it with the symptoms of unable to open World Of Tanks without crashing. Due to this I can not send the GPU back as it was the PSU that had broke it and under Antec's warranty It's not covered and to get the Power Supply fixed I have to send it to the retailer that will then send it to America to be fixed leaving me with basically a more expensive PSU and still a broken $250 Dollar GPU. Therefore I am stuck with 2 paperweights that in total cost around $330. Thanks Antec Please don't be like me or If anyone can help it would be gladly appreciated
  14. I am using a VS 550 power supply for GTX 950 Strix and a core i5 4460 for several months. Recently, got black screen reboot randomly when the game loads and while in-game. checked windows 10's event viewer it shows : Event 41, Kernel Power The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly. Reinstalled windows and drivers didn't help. note : * problem happens while game is running except doing common tasks,browsing the internet , leaving the computer on 24/7 . * Detailed reports from event viewer: Log Name: System Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power Date: 31/5/2016 1:24:12 PM Event ID: 41 Task Category: (63) Level: Critical Keywords: (70368744177664),(2) User: SYSTEM Computer: DESKTOP-5D9AIE3 Description: The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly. Event Xml: <Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event"> <System> <Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power" Guid="{331C3B3A-2005-44C2-AC5E-77220C37D6B4}" /> <EventID>41</EventID> <Version>3</Version> <Level>1</Level> <Task>63</Task> <Opcode>0</Opcode> <Keywords>0x8000400000000002</Keywords> <TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-05-31T05:24:12.620897000Z" /> <EventRecordID>771</EventRecordID> <Correlation /> <Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" /> <Channel>System</Channel> <Computer>DESKTOP-5D9AIE3</Computer> <Security UserID="S-1-5-18" /> </System> <EventData> <Data Name="BugcheckCode">0</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter1">0x0</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter2">0x0</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter3">0x0</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter4">0x0</Data> <Data Name="SleepInProgress">0</Data> <Data Name="PowerButtonTimestamp">0</Data> <Data Name="BootAppStatus">0</Data> </EventData> </Event> event viewer's report.txt
  15. Greetings, I just wanted some general support here about my SSD storage device. I suspect that this storage device is failing or is faulty, as I have seen the following warning signs; 1. Sometimes booting up or restarting the computer, it tries to start over PXE, Ipv4 followed by Ipv6, then tells me to "reboot and select proper boot device"... and works fine after a restart once that screen has appeared. Its acting as if there were no drive at all there to boot off of, I suspect. However, restarting usually fixes it. 2. I have run HDSentiel to get some information on what might be the issue and the results from the SSD: "Problems occurred between the communication of the disk and the host 1573 times. In the case of sudden system crash, reboot, blue-screen-of-death, inaccessible file(s)/folder(s), it is recommended to verify data and power cables, connections - and if possible try different cables to prevent further problems. More information: http://www.hdsentinel.com/hard_disk_case_communication_... The TRIM feature of the SSD is supported and enabled for optimal performance. The health is determined by SSD specific S.M.A.R.T. attribute(s): #169 Remain Life Percentage No actions needed. (Performance 100%, health 97%)" Do SSDs just... fail like this? Usually its the HDD that has the issues, but not in this case. Case of a loose or faulty SATA cord? Everything else seems functioning fine, no bad sectors, no file loss, no speed difference that I can tell yet... However, if this SSD IS failing, what can I do about it? I would prefer to not need to reinstall windows. What are my options for keeping my data? I have transferred some data/files I would like to keep to my other storage device, the combo HDD drive, off of the SSD just in case. The HDD is running just fine, no problems there. I have since left my computer running instead of shutting down and restarting due to the fear that it might not boot up again. Sorry for the verbose description, but I would like to get a ballpark on what needs to be done to my computer before my SSD kicks the bucket, should that be the case. Thanks in advance for any assistance regarding my issue.
  16. Hey guys, So I have this GTX 980 (not the one in my rig) and it is causing some trouble with red artifacts the artifacts only appear once in a while in some guys (batman Arkham knight) but in games like CSGO it is very constant. do you guys have any idea how I can maybe try to increase the Vram voltage using a bios tweaker to see if I can maybe make the Vram a bit more stable even if I have to underclock it. I've tried to underclock the Vram but it doesn't change anything really. I've got a feeling this is permanent damage (it's not too bad but still very noticeable in some games) and was hoping upping the voltage a smidge might just help the Vram out. also side note, I thought Arkham knight wasn't going to support SLI? when I sli'd the card with mine it showed I had 8 GB Vram (wait Vram doesn't stack??) to work with and the performance maxed out was a constant 90 fps (game limit)
  17. i was wondering if msi do rma for the uk because i can find the rma sheet thing you have to fill out on there website but its only for america so i was wondering if msi do rma for the uk and if so if someone could direct me on how to get my motherboard sent off to them since i have never done this before. mobo problem is that one of my slots of ram doesnt work and causes my pc too boot cycle and it arrived like this. so if someone can walk me through the process of trying to get it sent off or approved i will be very thankful
  18. Hello! I have had this computer for about 3 years now and recently I have been having a few issues with my PSU. In some programs after a period of time the computer will completely restart saying that the "ASUS anti-surge has been triggered". I know some people have had this problem and have solved it by disabling the anti-surge on their BIOS. My question is should I turn off the anti-surge to test if it is just false positives or should I just replace my PSU? Are their any risks associated with disabling the feature like blowing fuses etc? Specs: PSU - Corsair VS 650 CPU - i5-4570 GPU - ASUS Gtx 970 Turbo I don't run any overclocks either. Thanks for the help!
  19. Hi, So I had a budget of $1000 to build a PC for Gaming and coding. I spent as much money as i could justify spending on various parts, put it together, installed and updated windows, installed the newest graphics drivers and then started to play various titles (mostly through steam). But I am having a problem, my performance in game is seriously lacking what it should be. For example I can barely get 100fps in CS:GO. My brother has a similar system but with a lower model CPU and GPU and he is getting triple the fps. What is going on? Please hold back from ripping into me for having AMD products. I'm fed up of the childishness. Specs below... Mobo: MSI 970A-G43 PSU : Corsair CX750M 750W CPU: AMD FX-8350 (stock 4.0 and OC 4.3 makes no difference.) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO GPU: XFX AMD R9 390 RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2 x 4GB 1600MHz SSD: Kingston 120GB Something or other HDD: Western Digital Green 2TB OS: Windows 10 64bit My monitor is only 60Hz, yes, i know anything over 60fps is wasted with this monitor but i am dignosing my pc not trying to get a better fps.
  20. Hey everyone, I need your advice. I bought a new MSI Z170A Gaming M5 motherboard recently for my new build. Everything seems to work fine. But there are strange things that make me think something is not OK somewhere. Symptoms: 1. When I turn on the computer, the case fans that are connected to the mobo are spinning up really slowly. It takes 1-2 minutes to reach their full speed in most cases. But I have also seen that 1 out of 3 fans were already at full speed while the other two still tried to spin up. But this is the smallest problem. 2. When I launch GTA V, I can hear a popping/crackling sound from my headphones. Sometimes, when this happens, at the same time the leds on my keyboard all got turned on, however only the Num Lock should be turned on. When I press Caps Lock, then the led of Caps Lock turns off, and if I press it again, then the led of Scroll Lock turns off. But this keyboard thing does not happen always at the same time with the crackling noise. Sometimes the leds are already turned on when I login to Windows 10. 3. The above cracling noise with GTA happens only once after a cold start. If I reboot the machine and start the game again, there is no crackling sound. Only after a cold start. 4. The crakcling sound rarely can happen when I am just watching a youtube video. The keyboard issue can happen this time as well, however not every time happens. I tested the system with two different PSUs and the results were the same, so I excluded the PSU as a faulty hardware. GTA and the headphone had no issues with the same VGA in my previous rig. So they should be fine too. My hardware: MSI Z170A Gaming M5, latest BIOS (1.50) Intel i7-6700K Seasonic X-650 Gold, also tried with Corsair Gaming 600W EVGA GTX 980 Ti Hybrid ASUS Strix 7.1 as the sound card Samsung SM951 M.2 128GB SSD Samsung EVO 120 GB SSD ASUS PCE-AC68 wifi card Windows 10 64bit I am worried if this thing can damage my expensive hardware, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, tkocsir
  21. Hey guys, So my housemate has a problem with his PC atm. During loading screens in games or whatever, it performs fine, and then once the game actually launches, it either restarts completely, or the screen goes black until the PC is restarted manually. The games he usually plays and the problem occurs on are; League of Legends: As soon as you get into game, screen goes black and have to perform a manual restart of the PC CS:GO: After around 10mins of playing, PC just randomly restarts. There doesnt seem to be any evidence of any overheating in the system, as we have had the side panel off and a desk fan actually cooling the system. The CPU (AMD FX 8320) didn't go over 75 deg C, and the GPU (Sapphire R9 280) didnt display any signs of overheating either. Could this possibly be a problem with the PSU? All me and my housemates can think of is either PSU or a possible flaw in the GPU? Any 'intel' on this matter would be great, thanks for your time Rhys
  22. Guys please help me. My pc that I has been perfect for about a month and a half just started acting wierd today. Whenever I turn it on the fans and and beeps will go off as usual for intial start up, but only for about a second or so then turn off. Thus process repeat over and over. Everything should be seated correctly right? It has been great until now, and all power connectors are in and there should be no reason vcard or ram or cpu is seated incorrectly. Is it a dead psu? I called asus and taking out the Mb battery did the help. My specs should be in my profile but if not Intel 4790k Corsair ax760i Hyperx 1866 2x8 ddr3 Msi r9 390 Samsung 120gb 850evo Wd blue 1tb Asus sabertooth z97 mark2 Thanks, Pmanftw
  23. I've had this problem for quite a while and I've looked all over the internet for a solution, but I just have absolutely no idea what is causing it and if it can be fixed or not. Here's a video of the stuttering I enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZNO0WIwf0s As you can see, whenever it stutters, the CPU activity drops down a lot. If I have only two cores on affinity, one core will be active, drop down when it stutters and then the other core will start working. I have the most experience from WoW and it stops after I've looked at everything and pushed every button, but only for a while. Then it starts stuttering again. Raids are a nightmare. Here is a VoD from my stream where you also can see it. http://www.twitch.tv/yarvaxea/v/19701412 I've tried reinstalling windows, different versions of windows, with or without updating it, on different harddrives and SSDs. I've performed memory tests, CrystalDisk tests, Prime95, all clear. I've tried this thing with disabling High precision event timer, but it did squat. Stumbled upon this method http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?p=28807232#post28807232 and it says it improved performance, but I couldn't notice any difference. I have my power plan set on high performance so my cores are not being parked. I also keep an eye on the speed so it doesn't throttle down. I have tried to run the process on higher priority and set affinity to only one core. The latter seemed at first to work, but not when a lot of stuff is happening, then it's lagging and stuttering even more. My temperatures are all good in the 50s on load. I have disabled all of the power saving features in the BIOS, I've also updated the BIOS. DPC Latency Checker frequently hits in the yellow, but mostly in the green. I sit on a gigabit connection with <10ms latency. I've also tried to disable the audio drivers that I don't need, no change. I've replaced every single cable I have inside the computer. I've also ran without an anti-virus software. The stuttering seems to happen when I load in new areas or turn the camera really quick. Sometimes it stutters every time I pick up an item or get buffed etc in WoW, it definitely increases in frequency when the computer is under heavy load like when I'm streaming a 40-man raid. I'm fairly sure it's hardware related because even if I only have the drivers installed, it will still stutter. I just want to know what component to replace. It's just odd that every diagnostic program I can throw at it comes up with no errors what so ever. It also happens outside games, like when dragging a window between my monitors or pressing the Windows key. My specs: AMD FX-8350 @ stock with Corsair H100 cooler. Temps at 55 on full load Asrock 990FX extreme3 AMD HD7850 @stock, Temps at 55-60 on load Crucial C300 SSD as bootdrive and game location 2x4 GB Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W PSU Does anyone have any ideas? This is painful to play.
  24. I have been getting very frequent freezing / "black screening". The sound starts repeating itself and the screen goes full black, and i have to alt tab and get my cursor to appear again to tab back into the game. I'm assuming this is because of my gpu. Any suggestions on how to fix this OR any information on what would be causing this would be appreciated. Sorry if this isnt the correct place to post this Thanks
  25. I have a real issue with Gigabyte and the R9 290 Windforce i bought from the NCIX Surrey store. I purchased it this year and I had issues from day one that were not that bad. I was running an AMD system at the time and wanted a replacement for my aging XFC 7850 1GB video card and decided to get the Gigabyte R9 290 4GB card as it was on sale for 299.99 and seemed like a good deal as it was as much as i could afford at the time. I Purchased it and it worked great for games! The issue i had with it was when the drivers from AMD were installed i would have random black screens on average once a day after cold boot and after restart no problem till next cold boot. I tried troubleshooting it and realized although i build systems all the time I just could not isolate the problem to my satisfaction. Yes i tried reinstalling and replacing my 650 Watt PSU with 750 Watt and i even build an Intel system and added new memory and PSU and issue got worse. It resulted in black screen at desktop as soon as driver was loaded from MS update. Tried to not connect to internet after reinstall of windows 10 64 bit and install of catalyst suite. That worked sort of. It resulted in original issue of black screen 30 seconds to a minute after boot with a reset fixing it for another day. Ok yes i tried windows 7 and 8 plus 8.1 with same issue. Next i tried checking event log and I did find one consistent error message about atictrl app crashing and next message was start of reboot sequence. I assume it has been a driver issue all along and i have not found many people with same issue via google but it could be a bad card/bios etc. I also checked PSU and replaced it and tested both. They test fine with 2 different testers i bought. They could both be bad or testers could be bad? Who knows. I finally decided to RMA it only to find out less than a year into a 3 year warranty it was out of warranty. I checked manufacturing date and the warranty FAQ and found out it was out of warranty before i bought it! Ok that sounds weird and not fair to me. But Gigabyte bases warranty on date on manufacture not date of sale. So Beware when you buy some PC products that your warranty is based on manufacturing date and not sale date. Do not know how many companies use this policy but i imagine it saves them a load of money and hastle replacing parts. I have since purchased a GTX 980ti as a replacement and have no idea what to do with the 290 but use it as a bookend. Yes i am actually using as a bookend because as i video card it is useless to me and craigslisting it is bad karma and i don't want some stranger hunting me down for a refund on a bunk card.
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