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Hi guys I have a problem with my pc. Sooo i saw a video which a guy download a file to update the bios with a usb stick but he has a bios flash button but i dont have it on my mobo, maybe i cant find it. BTW my an orange led lights on when i start my pc which it written DRAM i everything lights up but gpu's fans are not spinning and i have no picture nothing onn the monitor CPU: AMD r5 3600 RAM: Trident Z 16gb 3200mghz MOBO: ASUS STRIX B450 F gaming GPU: AMD 6700XT thanks in advance

Hey, I have a few Questions that i just don't find answers for. Thats my configuration right now: Slot #1 & Slot #2 = 2* Samsung 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill Slot #3 & Slot #4 = 2* SK Hynix 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill I wonder if it would "decrease" Performance or "async" the Infinity Fabric if: 1. I would Overclock Slot #1 & Slot #2 (with the "better overclocking capable" Samsung DRAM) to something like 2800 MHz CL12-34, but keep the Overclock of the Slot #3 & Slot #4 (with the "worse overclocking capable" SK Hynix DRAM)? 2. I would further overclock all Slots to 2400MHz CL12-34? 3. I would overclock the Infinity Fabric to 1800MHz but keep the DRAM at 2800 MHz CL14-36? Thats my System: CPU = Ryzen 5 5600X MB = MSI B550-A PRO RAM = G.Skill 32GB 3200MHz CL16-38 ^^ 2* Samsung 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill ^^ 2* SK Hynix 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill GPU = RX 6800 XT Midnight Black 16GB 2400MHz@990mV MPT 345W max. Power Draw PSU = BeQuiet System Power 9 700W (672W@12V Rail) Sorry for my bad english, Thanks for reading and maybe answering!

Hi! (pardon the very long story, i was just maybe hoping that someome has another solution to my problem compared to what I'm asking for, but if you're not interested, you can skip the very long paragraph HAHA) I recently upgraded to an SSD for my laptop ( my laptop is the hp omen 15 2018; ssd is the kingston sa2000m8250g, though it was only 240GB because it was a bit of a rushed purchase) because my harddrive was starting to fail. Unfortunately, I didn't do my research properly and due to some circumstances, I kinda bloated it, and it got to around just having 40GB of free space, and since then, the only game I played (destiny 2) started running badly. Initially, it was doing really great, I had it on medium settings which was more than what i could ask for considering my hardware, but after installing something for school, the game suddenly started slowing down and being unresponsive at prolonged sessions with higher settings, now it barely runs at the lowest settings. One solution I've tried today was to increase the RAM because while playing destiny, my memory usage was always at around the 95%. so my friend and my dad suggested I tried increasing the ram, and since it was a simpler option compared to switching out the ssd (which I think is the source of the problem). But then I tried it, and I would still encounter the problems. Does anyone have any other solutions except for switching out the ssd? (it's also my boot drive rn) Now, here I am shopping for SSDs and a lot of the googling I've done has been telling me to not go with dram-less drives. but then i can't really tell the difference. One of the ssds I've been looking at is the CORSAIR Force MP510 NVMe PCIe Gen3 x4 M.2 SSD and it apparently has a "HIGH-DENSITY 3D TLC NAND" that "provides the ideal mix of performance, endurance and value to keep your drive performing at its best for years". Does the TLC NAND mean that it is not DRAM-less?? if not, does anyone have other suggestions for ssds with a dram, that's on the cheaper side? Thank you for coming to my ted talk

My pc bluescreens and ends up in a reboot cykle when i try to enable xmp or clock my ram to 3200mhz. I have 4 sticks of ddr4 8gb 3200mhz ram. 2 hyper X sticks and 2 corsair vengance sticks. I know that it\s tricky to mix ram but possible and the risks that follows. but it\s interesting because I had the same issue before installing 2 more sticks. i tried clocking it to 3200 because that\s what they are rated for but my windows where displaying them at first as 2600mhz. I first tought it was because I maybe installed them in the wrong slots but thought it was very unlikely since i have some experince with pc building. So I checked and there they where in 2a 2b running 700mhz to low. when i tried in increase it I got bluescreen. so i tried installing 2 more sticks of reliable ram that i knew worked correctly *corsair vengance| but still nothing and still bluescreens when xmp enabled

Hi, So i built my pc about a year and a half ago and since then its been running fine with a few issues here and there which i was able to fix. Yesterday, whilst playing apex, my game suddenly crashed and i encountered the blue screen of death. My PC kept on konstantly crashing, rebooting, bluescreen, rebooting, bluescreen, etc. There i tried clean restarts, reinstalling windows and what not, nothing worked when suddenly i just got a black screen with both my monitors saying no input detected. At that point i thought it was a GPU issue since my GPU is quite old and has been uded alot over the years, but when i tried it in a different computer it worked fine, so i ruled that out. Thats when I noticed the yellow qled on my MB indicating a DRAM issue. In order to fix this i attempted everything i was able to find: -Reinstalling my RAM sticks in the correct ports and cleaning them -Reinstalling my cpu, thermal paste and cooler to see if there was damage or installment issue and watching out not to screw the cooler on too tightly - Tried different cables, cleaning ports and making sure all the ports are plugged in properly - reset my cmos with battery and shortcircuiting the dedicated pins My specs are: RYZEN 3900X GIGABYTE WINDFORCE 980 Corsair Vengeance 32GB 3200Mhz ddr4 ram NOCTUA NH12A Asus TUF Gaming 570x Plus Corsair 750W Gold PSU Samsung evo 980 m.2 SSD (OS) Seagate barracuda HDD I would reall appreciate if someone could help me put with this because im really lost. I attached pictures of the QLED.

I'm planning to get a new SSD, and I've been looking around and reading some reviews and a lot of times I encounter dramless SSDs, and I've heard a while back to avoid dramless SSDs. But some of them actually have positive reviews (something about HMB/SLC? I don't understand much of these yet), I wanted to try them since some were quite cheaper. My use case, aside from games, will mostly be with illustration and graphics and very occasional video editing. If it matters the particular SSDs I was looking at were: WD Blue SN570, Teamgroup MP33, Samsung 980 Nvme.

Hey guys, Recently built a computer for a friend. Installed Windows and tested everything after I built it, all worked fine (Didn't change bios besides ram speed). She flew back to Canada with the PC as checked in luggage. After she got home, the computer worked fine for couple hours, following by a complete shutdown of the system. (not a power surge since monitor is still working). Then she couldn't get it turned on again. (DRAM orange light always on). I remotely let her resit the rams, only two sticks, and single stick, no go. Then I let her checked all the cables, removed the sleeved extension 24pin cable and 8pin cable and directly powered from the PSU, no go. Then I let her ordered another set of rams that are officially compatible with the mb, no go. Also did bios reset and bios flashback. Somehow the PC just stuck at DRAM light. All PC parts are brand new, and I'm listing them below. Hope someone could help me out MB: Strix B550f WIFI CPU: 5800X RAM: Trident Z Royal 16GB x4 GPU: 3070Ti FTW3 PSU: Corsair RM850x z53 240 AIO, case is O11 air mini

Soo, I was messing around in the bios and I noticed my dram frequency was pretty low. So I bumped it up to the memory frequency thinking that was the memory frequency menu. I clicked save and now my system won't post. My Memory frequency is 3600 mhz so I'm guessing dram is that times 2 so yeah I don't what to do now

Can someone please help me fix or understand this, the picture shows the issue

Summary COMSEC, a computer security group in Switzerland based out of the university ETH Zurich has discovered and released a new iteration of rowhammer exploits on DDR4 DRAM, dubbed Blacksmith. (1) Originally discovered in 2014 by Google security research team Project Zero (2), also releasing a newer variant earlier this year (3), rowhammer attacks take advantage "of an unintended and undesirable side effect in dynamic random-access memory (DRAM) in which memory cells interact electrically between themselves by leaking their charges, possibly changing the contents of nearby memory rows that were not addressed in the original memory access. This circumvention of the isolation between DRAM memory cells results from the high cell density in modern DRAM, and can be triggered by specially crafted memory access patterns that rapidly activate the same memory rows numerous times." (4) Target Row Refresh (TRR) was implemented by DRAM manufacturers to mitigate these flaws, however Blacksmith is the latest discovery in rowhammer exploits proving that TRR protection is insufficient - resulting in potential escalation in kernel privileges. COMSEC confirmed "that DRAM devices acquired in July 2020 with DRAM chips from all three major DRAM vendors (Samsung, SK Hynix, Micron) are affected by this vulnerability [Blackmith]." (5) "There might be a light at the end of the tunnel, what with TRR being replaced by a new line of defense called "refresh management" in DDR5 DRAM modules, a mechanism that "keeps track of activations in a bank and issues selective refreshes to highly activated rows once a threshold has been reached." (1) CVE-2021-42114 Detail (6) COMSEC blog; Blacksmith Methodology (7) My Thoughts I would love to see LTT try to replicate these results. The exploit is available on Github. Sources (1) https://thehackernews.com/2021/11/new-blacksmith-exploit-bypasses-current.html (2) https://googleprojectzero.blogspot.com/search?q=rowhammer (3) https://thehackernews.com/2021/05/google-researchers-discover-new-variant.html (4) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Row_hammer (5) https://vulners.com/cve/CVE-2021-42114 (6) https://nvd.nist.gov/vuln/detail/CVE-2021-42114 (7) https://comsec.ethz.ch/research/dram/blacksmith/

COMPUTER COMPOSITON: MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte X399 Arous Pro REV1.0 with Bios F2 CPU: AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2970WX 24 CORES RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 2 sticks of 16gbs F4-3200C16D-32GTZR GPU: NVIDIA Quadro RTX 4000 PSU: Thermaltake 850W RGB Gold One year old, worked perfectly fine with my 3d applications, no new component was installed. Issue: Computer will not POST, show any video signal on display, fans spin and AMD X399 PRO Chipset LED turns on (the one with an eagle logo).The GPU fans spin, the G.SKILL RGB RAM sticks glow as well. Observation: Observing the motherboard's Status LEDs the CPU status led stays on for about 20 seconds showing code 0d or could be Dd can not make my mind if its a uppercase D or 0(zero). Then it changes to 15, C2, then wraps up with B7 and moves onto the DRAM status led and stays there for the same duration as it did with the CPU status led and ends up only showing the CODE: 07 or D7. It is then SUPPOSED to go to the VGA status led then the BOOT status led and post. BUT it does not, it goes back to the CPU led for about ten seconds then moves on the DRAM again for ten seconds and resumes the cycle again in a never ending loop until I power off the system. When turning it back on it proceeds to do the same thing. What I was doing that led to this issue: It is believed that my computer performed a windows update for security or something got messed up with my account privileges, I have a Logitech Brio 4k webcam that has Windows Hello integrated and when logging in to my account it works perfectly fine. Now when downloading a EXE file or opening a program with administrative privileges the USER ACCOUNT CONFIG dialog box pops up and it usually has the option to press YES or NO as im the only admin. In the past it had the option to click any button, but now it got integrated with Windows Hello for some reason. It would do the Windows Hello thing with my face and confirm it was me but then it would glitch and open the dialog box again right away and confirm it was me again, I would press yes and it would pop up again unless I pressed NO or X it out which led to nothing. Troubleshooting it with Google there was an article that I linked below if it is important, that suggested I went into SAFE MODE and to open it I had to type the command "SHUTDOWN /R /O -T 00" in Command Prompt . The system restarted and took me to the UEFI (Windows Advanced Options), I pressed "Troubleshoot, then "Advanced options", then "Startup Settings" and for safe mode I had to press F7 but it didn't work as I believe that my Logitech Solar Keyboard does not function while the system is in this state, the keyboard is wireless with its own 2ghz usb adapter plugged in the back of the motherboard. The system then displayed a totally black screen and I know it is suggested to not turn off a computer when its in the UEFI or BIOS abruptly as it can have consequences. I proceeded to plug in my Bluetooth mouse with its usb cable to see if I could use hardwire mouse input, which I only plug in for charging it. When doing so the system turned off completely and now I can no longer get an image on the screen. I believed that the BIOS might've gotten corrupted so I decided to do the following and none of them worked, I ended up rebuilding the computer again and nothing still What I attempted; 1. Turning off and unplugging the power cord from the device and clearing the CMOS battery with shorting the pins with a screwdriver as mentioned in the manual did not help (CMOS Jumper). 2. Turning off and unplugging the power cord from the device to remove the CMOS battery and waiting up to a minute with the battery out and placing it back in did not help either. 3. Turning off the device and pressing ONE of the onboard quick buttons on the motherboard each type I turned the system on (PW_SW, RST_SW, CMOS_SW) did not do anything. Also attempted pressing both the PW_SW and CMOS_SW button, did not work either. 4. Turning off the device and reseating the RAM sticks, and also removing one RAM stick changing it to one channel, did not help. *Followed manual as to where to insert the RAM sticks when it is only one, as I have two sticks. 5. Reseating as well the GPU in the same PCIEX16_1 slot, and also changing it to the PCIEX16_2 slot did not help. 6. Removing M.2 NVME SSDs, and TP-Link WIFI/Bluetooth from (PCIEX8_1) from the motherboard. Nothing! 7. Disconnecting and connecting the power supply cables to the ATX_12V_1 and ATX_12V_2 for the CPU. Also tried only having the ATX_12V_1 plugged in. No post still. 8. Disconnecting and connecting the power supply cables to the 24-pin ATX for the motherboard. 9. Removing the GPU and powering on the system without it, same loop with the CPU AND DRAM. *I am aware I need the GPU installed in order to get a video signal but it did the same loop with the status LEDs. 10. Removing all RAM sticks and powering the system without it, nothing posted on screen. LED Indicator code: 10 = PEI Core is started. 11. Removing all components including; RAM sticks, GPU, TP-Link adapter, CPU cooler and the CPU it self from the socket, SSDs and placing them back in/reseating them, applying new thermal paste to CPU, cleaning any dust out, and still the same issue persists. *The system was working perfectly fine until I got to the list of options to choose SAFEMODE. So I believe that neither the CPU, GPU OR RAM got toasted or fried but I may be wrong. I attempted to reset the BIOS as that was suggested online to first do as the motherboard does have a backup bios chip and main bios chip , that didn't help either. I am not sure if it is that something happened to the motherboard itself or if indeed a major component is fried, which I really hope not. Thank you for any help that can be provided, I apologize if this was lengthy but I was determined to make sure I was descriptive as much as I can. I have submitted the manual and the article I was following. Article I followed to try to fix user account problem X399 AROUS PRO MANUAL 11/19/2021

Hi, I have the below rig, First time using AMD CPU. 5600X - Bought 3 months ago with the board - was on intel GB Aorus Elite X570 GB Aorus Master 6800XT - 7 months old XPG Core Reactor 850w Gold - Top Tier Rated - 1 year old 2 M.2 Kingston A2000 Everything was working fine until I bought new RAM 1 month ago - Kingston Fury Beat 3733mhz 4x8, my PC started to re-boot randomly once in a day and sometimes 2 days. When I checked the board QVL my RAMs weren't listed so I thought this might be the case, On intel never had such issues with RAM, Im running the ram at XMP1 which is 3600mhz, only tweaked CL from C18 to C16 @1.4v - Today, I changed the voltage to 1.37v I ran multiple stress tests using OCCT, Aida64, windows memtest, and other general test like 3D Mark stability test, R20, R23 for hours with no issues. everything is up to date. Regards, Khader

Hi all, I recently decided to build a new PC (after almost 11 years) and am a little rusty. I thought I had checked compatibility between the HW I purchased but upon trying to boot the rig, the Motherboard's onboard LEDs are shining yellow. I checked the user manual and found this means an issue is detected with the DRAM. I thought my RAM was compatible with the board I bought but maybe I am missing something? I have listed all the HW I have for this rig, if anyone could confirm if I need to get different memory (or potentially other changes) that would be appreciated. Thanks all. Motherboard = ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Gaming II CPU = AMD Ryzen 5 5600X GPU = ASUS ROG STRIX GeForce GTX 1080 Ti RAM = G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) PSU = CORSAIR RM Series RM750

HI! My system: CPU: i5-10400F motherboard: ASUS Rog Strix H470-i Graphics Card: GTX 1660 Super RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz F4-3200C16D-16GTZR PSU: Fractal Design ION+ SFX-L 650W Gold No screen after boot, DRAM yellow light is on. Tried different RAMs, tried only one slot or the other or with both but other type of RAM. Although this type is supported according to the manufacturer. Previously had a 11th gen CPU do others said the problem is that the older MB does not recognise the 11th gen CPU. Now I have the same type of problem with the supported 10th gen, no screen, can not even enter to the BIOS, can't update BIOS. This type of MB does not have flashblack option, cant update without a screen. What can be the problem? Please help! Thanks, Boren

Hi, I finally found set of kits that are compatible with my GB Elite X570 in my country which is the HyperX Fury 3733mhz CL 19-23-23 I know they are loose timing but they are very cheap, like 50USD cheap per kit than others brands in my country. After some research I read that it runs Nanya A-Die, which I never heard of in my life, now I'm having second thouts of getting them? anyone tried them, I cant find any useful info online?! thanks,

First of all my Build information: Ryzen 9 3900x with stock cooler (Wraith Prism) MSI b450 Pro Carbon AC / ASUS ROG B550F Gaming WIFI 32gb Corsair Vengeance 3000mhz (4 x 8GB) MSI RTX 2080 Super Gaming X Trio 500 GB m.2 samsung evo 970 1TB patriot burst SSD Bequiet Pure Power 11 600W (modular) Hi, my build has been running for 2 Years without any hickups whatsoever. A couple of Days ago it randomly shut down without any warning while watching a video (I was not stressing the system whatsoever as you could imagine from the specs above). I tried to restart the PC but it would not boot. All the fans would spin really fast and the DRAM LED would be glowing (not flashing, if it can even do that) constantly until i shut down my computer again byy holding down the power button. I tried starting it with one stick of ram in slot 1 (the one nearest to the CPU) and it bootet just fine. So I tested all the Ram sticks individually in Slot 1. Every Ram stick was working fine. I then proceeded to test the other slots. Turns out with a single Ram stick in slot 3 or 4 the system would again show the DRAM error. 1 and 2 were working just fine (not with both sticks in them tho. Either one stick in 1 or one stick in 2). I flashed CMOS and updated the bios still nothing. I baught a new Mobo (the second one mentioned in the specs) and swapped it with the old one thinking that would be the end of my problems. The Problem persists. But now every channel works and i can get the PC working with 2 sticks of Ram in slot 3 and 4 (those were dead on the other mobo). So now i can use 2 sticks of Ram but still not 4. whenever I try to install a third or even fourth Ram stick in slot 1 or 2 i get the DRAM error. If I install only one stick of Ram in either of those slots, the PC is booting just fine. I found some Forum posts narrowing this issue down to 2 components the PSU that is somehow acting up when trying to use dual channel memory or the CPU. The thing is: every one with the CPU problem had bent pins from installing the CPU. Their errors occured right after build and NOT years later. How can I bent a pin while the CPU is sitting in its slot? That seems impossible. Also, while swapping the CPU to the other mobo I did not see any bent pins. It went in the other mobo like butter and everything is working (e.g. stress testing with high temperatures or long use for several hours). I ordered the exact same Power supply from Amazon hoping this will fix things. If that is not it, I will have to sent the CPU to AMD hoping they find something. My question now is: is there another solution I did not think of/find? My CPU cooler is not overtightened (it has this weird clamp system that comes witrh the stock cooler, no screws involved)

Hi, MB: MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk Wifi - Bios 7C84v181(Beta version) CPU: AMD Ryzen 5800X RAM: Crucial Ballistix 16GB*2 3600MHz CL16 (BL2K16G36C16U4B) #1 I realized those kits are 2 sticks of single rank. Do you think somehow performance match / overcome 2 sticks of dual rank? #2 I guess buying the same kit, would result into an overflowed IMC and would be counterproductive (additionnaly too much ram & hard for the wallet), what would you advice? #3 I am trying to perform a clean overclock to grasp performance from my build, any recommended guide to overclock step by step on an equivalent configuration? You can find my current O/C (4000MHz at 16-18-18-38): I am not familiar with all those timings & sub timings unfortunately. How can I improve starting from there? Should I try to improve main timing on a lower frequency, or fiddle the timings on that frequency? FYI: I have let MemTest (windows) run for 2 hours, no errors seems to pop so far My current AID64 score: Latency goes sometime down till 56ns on some benchmark. Thank you for your help and your guidance!

Hi, I have 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200mhz 16-18-18-36 with very loose timings scoring 74ns latency on AIDA 64. Spent multiple hours overclocking and tightening the timings until I reached 3466mhz 16-19-19-38 and tighter timings on secondary timings. My concern is the voltage 1.4v which I read is bad for C-die and temps which goes up to 65c (will get 60mm noctua fan for them), I read that c-die will not even boot at 1.4v but it does normally, are the numbers safe? can I tighten the timings even more? Thaiphoon says its a samsung b-die but after looking around the net they are C-Die (Ver 4.32) should I push to 3600mhz at higher voltage? is SoC voltage fine?

Hi, I have Gigabyte Aorus elite x570 with 5600X, been searching Pcpartpicker, QVL, Amazon and cannot seen to find compatible set of RAM, I want 3600mhz 8x2 preferable CL16 not CL18. Tried searching from QVL to Amazon but products are not found, also, from pcpartpicker to amazon to QVL eventually find out its not compatible as per QVL Anyone can help, starting to get frustrated.

Hi, So, I have Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200mhz 4 x 8GB, supposedly samsung bdie, I tried everything to overclock, DRAM voltage, SoC Voltage, GDDB or whatever is called for infinity fabric, used DRAM calculator, everything timing and I was able to reach the attached timings XMP: 3200mhz 16-18-18-36 After OC: 3400mhz 16-19-18-28 my concern is the high latency, I have 1:1 ratio but still, late 60s is still high comparing to what I'm seeing by other users. any suggestion? should I upgrade and get 3600mhz CL 18?

Before I say anything, I know this topic is very discussed, even on the ltt forum, but I really can't find any answers for my case. I am looking to upgrade my RAM from my 8gb to 16gb, but I can't decide if I should buy 2 more dimms of 4gb (50€) or 2 dimms of 8gb(105€). I'm new to building pc's and don't understand much about dual-channel or quad-channel, what I got from reading multiple forums posts is that I wouldn't get dual-channel with the 4 dims and quad-channel is only found on flagship CPUs (don't quote me on that, I'm just saying what I read) so I would lose considerable performance while gaming. Why am I worring about a 50€ difference? Well, that's almost a quarter of what I paid for the whole system and I'm already running short on cash. I am not considering upgrading in the future as 16gb is more than enough for the kind of system this is and I'd much rather build a new one. This are the important system specs to this discussion, but the full list is on my profile: CPU - Intel Core i5-4460 RAM - HyperX Fury Blue DDR3 1600MHz CL10 2x4GB MBD - ASUS Vanguard B85 I would buy identical dimms to the ones already installed. I read the motherboard manual but got no conclusions out of it, but here it is E8519_B85VA.pdf (asus.com)

Hi! I recently built a system: CPU: i5-11600kf motherboard: ASUS Rog Strix H470-i Graphics Card: GTX 1660 Super RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz F4-3200C16D-16GTZR PSU: Fractal Design ION+ SFX-L 650W Gold The problem is the black screen, and motherboard shows DRAM yellow light. I already tried switching the RAM sticks with other ones. I tried with one stick at a time, in both slots. I checked the recommended RAM kits for this motherboard and it seems like its not the problem. I checked if they are fully in the slot. I don't really know any other things that I may have to try. Could anyone suggest anything other than sending back the motherboard? Could there be any other solution? Looking forward to your ideas. Thanks, Boren

Hi, As the title mentions, I have a Corsair ONE i160 and I want to upgrade the ram, however I am not sure what is compatible with what and if it is possible? I was thinking of getting VENGEANCE® LPX 64GB (2 X 32GB) DDR4 DRAM 2666MHZ C16 MEMORY KIT. If there is anyone that can help with this matter I would greatly appreciate it! CPU = Intel Core i9-9900K Motherboard = Z370 Mini-ITX And here is a link to the models website.

Hi Everyone, I'm having a big issue! I recently swapped out my PSU for a higher wattage and somewhere down the line I got a CPU Over Voltage error. I since went back to the old PSU and still have the same problem. CPU is at ~4v A local IT company told me my CPU will most likely need to be replaced, but I just noticed the DRAM is also at ~4v. Do I need to replace the DRAM as well? Is this an issue with the motherboard? I'm looking at replacing whatever parts I need to, but now I'm wondering if I need to start over with a new build... Specs: MOBO: Asus Prime Z370-A CPU: i7-8700K RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V (2x16gb) PSU Old: EVGA G2 650w PSU New (returning): EVGA Supernova G5 1000w GFX Card New (haven't tested yet): Gigabyte Aorus Master 3070ti

So pretty much what the title says. I got a new GPU, installed it, and suddenly my pc doesn't start. So I check around and see that the DRAM LED is on. I google the thing and the answer is that my RAM is not being read. Which is odd, given the fact that I had been using this PC for about 3 weeks with the iGPU of my i7. Anyways, I remove the GPU and my computer boots normally into windows with the iGPU. So I try again with the GPU and the same happens. DRAM. So I reseat the sticks and try again; nothing happens. Somehow, I just restart my computer and for some reason, it boots. Takes some time going from the DRAM light all the way to the BOOT light but no other light shows and I get into windows. I actually managed to install the drivers but just as I finished installing them, the computer freezes and reboots itself. Then, the MOBO splash screen says "Please wait". So I left it overnight and nothing happened. When I woke up it was in the same screen. So I forced shutdown and pressed the power button again. This time, instead of the DRAM light turning on, the VGA light shows. So I reboot. Now the BOOT light shows. I reboot. Sometimes I can get into BIOS when I try to load default settings but just as I click the option, it freezes and the BOOT light turns on (even though it wasn't on when I booted that time) Here's what I've tried: -Resetting BIOS -Resetting CMOS -Unplugging GPU -Booting with only 1 RAM stick -Swapping 6+2 cable -Rebuilt my computer -Contacted Gigabyte in case it was a problem with my MOBO (they haven't answered yet though) And here are my specs: CPU: i7-11700 MOBO: H470 AORUS PRO AX (Q-Flashed, of course to work with intel 11th Gen) RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE PRO 32GB 3200MHz (4x8) GPU: ZOTAC RTX 2060 PSU: EVGA 600BQ SSD: WD BLUE 1TB Please help. I really want to use this thing and I don't think Linus would be willing to come to my house and fix it.