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Hello All, I'm new here and never post topic so I apologize for anything missed. I've been looking all over for a Crosshair VIII Hero monoblock and cannot find one anywhere. EKWB seems to be out of everything always (or no longer making) and I don't know where else to look really. Google is not helping and it is the only thing left to make my liquid loop perfect. Am I trying to find this in vein or is there hidden treasures out there I am not seeing?

Hallo everyone, I want to create a DIY (game) server. I want to host a some light server for game play like Minecraft and statisfactory. Also I want to use it as a cloud storage device. What kind of specs is needed for this job? I found a second hand Dell Optiplex with Intel i5-4590 QuadCore 3.30 GHz x-64-processor, 8 gb ram ddr3, 500 gb HDD for €65. I know I need to change the storage but it’s is ddr3 ram is that okay? Or do I need something entirely different?

Recently, our diy team in China succeeded in increasing the video memory capacity of gddr6 video card by replacing the video memory chip. The most valuable one is the 3060 on laptop, which changes from 6gb to 12gb, which significantly improves the experience of 3060laptop in high-resolution games and some industrial software. We have decided to try to retrofit a 3090 with 48gb video memory. We originally planned to get 24 video memory solder joints by porting the 3090ti core to the 3090 pcb, because in early tests, most of the 3090 bios did not support 16gib video memory chips, while the 3090ti did, and they had the same fcbga interface. So our original plan was to make a 3090ti 48gb. But in a test this afternoon, we found that the evga 3090 supports 16gib video memory, which saves us the cost of a 3090ti and helps more people expand their video memory at a lower cost. Currently, the project is in beta, and we will publish methods to help interested people when we success. At present, Nvidia has not disabled this method through the update. Detailed testing of the 6gb and 12gb 3060laptop will be updated in a follow-up reply team :tcat epu Thank to every discoverer

My case powerbutton cable is to short for my MB and I have to of the same cable on wondering if I can diy this to geter and will it work for turning on my pc and the led on my powerbutton.

Hello, so I just though about, what if I try to somehow add another fan to the end side of my AK620 CPU cooler, so there is another pull fan. Has anyone tried this before, does it increase any performance and how did you go about doing it? Zip ties or something? For this to work I guess I would have to use 1 to 3 pin extender on the CPU fan pin socket, is this safe?

I recently picked up a NVIDIA Titan X (Maxwell) for $50 on eBay, which did not come with the stock cooling shroud or fan. As a learning exercise, I figured I'd try to put together my own cooling solution, and I am heavily considering a Kraken G12 with a 120mm AIO (though the Raijintek Morpheus II is another interesting option). My question is what size of heatsinks should I use to help cool the VRAM & Memory chips? Since I'm not worried about going back to stock, I'd also like to hear about suggestions for thermal adhesives/ cement.

I'm trying to find a Controller for a Lq156m1jw09. It has a 40pin connecter. I just want to turn this screen into a extra monitor. The Controller broad don't need to allow 240hz long as I can find one that will work for 1080p 60hz with this screen will be fine. but i cant find one that is compatible. Far as I can tell if its a 40 pin it should work but I don't know. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello. In sort, my parents have a projector clock which I like the idea of very much. Instead of rotating around in the bed for a phone or a clock you can just look up at the ceiling at a faint projection and then go back to sleep if you realised you haven't slept done yet. My only problem with it is that it isn't "smart" or configurable enough. My wishlist for it is: To be able to set it's own time and not to have to manually enable/disable daylight saving time. Preferably code my own UI (display calendar events when needed). And of cause be completely silent. My thoughts goes to a Raspberry Pi and I have seen other has had the same idea (at least using it as a base for a projector), but I haven't found anything in a nice and small package. Does anyone here have any experience with a Raspberry Pi projector? Any guess how long lifetime such projector can have? The clock in the picture is just a reference, it's not the model they got. It's behind a spoiler because I didn't find how to shirk the image.

Hi everyone, im planning to shift around the way that i currently have my smart stuff connected. I like buying new stuff but if there is a chance to do it with what i currently have on hand and can avoid E-Waste it would be great. On hand i have 2 retired isp gigabit AIO router/modems that i can repurpose as hubs/access points. Also and Asus AC2400 2 Galaxy note phones that i can repurpose as security cameras or whatever project you guys have in mind. My current problem is that the best wifi comes from the archer ax6000 and i believe its coming close to its bandwith max capacity due to the amount of smart devices always running of it, so my idea was to separate all smart stuff to the asus router and keep the AX6000 as a clean for gaming and streaming wifi source. Walls are brick or concrete, there is a lot of conduit for ethernet wich is not being taken advantage of so if you have suggestions on how should i rearrange the stuff for max compatibility it would be great. Other big issue im facing is that my Studio Gaming PC/ Plex Server has a hard time being found by the living room tv/ps5 since it goes straight to the isp modem and the rest of the stuff goes to the ax6000. I like having everything connected there for better continuity between IoT and google assistant. In case there are many grammatical errors im sorry, not my native language. Hope you guys have ideas for this, also any cool smart integrations will be appreciated.

I present The Lantop prototype. This is a custom built fully modular and fully upgradable AIO that can be carried around far better then other AIO out there, eblaztr comes to mind here. It will perform on par if not better then most very high end gaming laptops while providing a full 22 inch monitor. A little History on the project. A while back, in fact a couple years back, I started a project to make a large version of a laptop that would be around the same size as this project is now. However over time, I came to the conclusion that integrated keyboards just suck and would rather have a separate keyboard. It was then decided, I would go the AIO route. It was a DIY AIO. Couple years go by and the shutdown of everything had me realize that parts would take forever to arrive and gave me the idea to completely start from scratch. So after figuring out what size monitor was best suited for portability I went with a 22 inch monitor, the GFV22CB from VIOTEK . This gave me the size that I would then built the chassis around. The Build. The concept of an AIO is not new however, the ultra compact nature of SFF systems and full modularity and upgradability is something that is still to this day lacking in the AIO department particularly when it comes to how thin they are compared to todays very high gaming laptop market. So I set out to figure the bare minimum how thin could I actually go and after coming across a very specific type of server motherboard the Asrock Imb 1222, I found out that you could practically reach the sub 1 inch or 25.4 mm height and still have everything installed, with one little caveat, you need to be comfortable making 90 degree mods to atx pin connectors. This is not something that is impossible nor I would say dangerous either. Soldering is quite a simple process, just make sure you have the right tools and you should prevail. The next thing in mind was how to power such a device. It turns out that within the Small Form Factors forums exist a bunch of low to high end Psu units in both AC to DC and DC to DC. The Dynamo 360 and Hd plex 400w DC-ATX come to mind. Amongst these however exist the current pinnacle of small form factor psu from HD PLEX, the GaN 250w psu. This psu can provide most mid range system with plenty of power for everyday use and so I chose this to power my system and is only 25mm thick. I realized that anything gpu related is just a matter of removing the massive heatsink and fans and place a custom cooling solution which I did for my cpu as well. I picked the D series of coolers from Streamcom with 6 heat pipes each. From there I made a simple MOD on my motherboard and Psu atx pins to a 90 degree to allow for ease of connections as well as a quick custom mount for the D series cpu cooler which allowed for an extra 1mm of clearance. Once I got the majority of my components ready, I began building the chassis itself. The chassis contains the monitor and the computer in one small form factor size being a total of 36mm thicccc slim and is 520mm long by 320mm wide. It is built all in aluminum and since I have access to welding equipment, I was able to weld together 1/2inch square tubing together to make the outside frame and then weld and formed sheet inside to house and mount the components and bridge the wiring for the monitor from the other side through some cutouts. I then proceeded to acquire some carbon fiber tubing mostly for both looks but to keep weight down. They have slots that allow spring pins to hold the legs in place in both upright and collapsed mode and the rear leg stores in a slot of the 1/2 square tubing. The final two pieces the front and rear covers are simply aluminum sheets of 1.6mm thinness and provides the securing of the monitor along with some screws and double sided foam for tension and retention for the monitor, whilst the rear cover is a perforated sheet that allows for cooling and connection of the DB series cooling solution from streamcom to radiates the heat into the perforated sheet which is then cooled by blower fans mounted at lower portion of the chassis. The top portion of the chassis has perforation for added ventilation and cutouts for access to the motherboard IO. The future. The build is completed and I am currently running test and also enjoying the computer for gaming and other everyday computers things including cad work. I for one am currently looking for some new blower fans that are better suited for my build, getting some nice heatsink for the VRM and also improving the build in terms of things like the push pins that are a bit janky to actuate and maybe the legs could be even sturdier. In theory I could also make a new chassis that is smaller by replacing one side of the square tubing for a channel shape or formed piece of aluminum. Perhaps in the future. Also improving the cooling system to also cool the Psu would benefit this system as well. All in all I believe that this is an excellent proof of concept and called it "The Lantop" as it suits that role quite well for what is has been built for. I hope I will have more to add to this build and hope you are all inspired, take care out there.

Hi, my name is Luis, I am an engineering student. I have just started using a tablet as my note taking method. I am using the galaxy tab s7, while the experience has been great I need more than one screen most of the time. One for the actual writing and the other one for questions, theory and so on. I was looking for a second display for the tablet. However all had issues, too big, too small, resolution,... I came to the conclusion that the best screen was the one that the tablet uses. This way the screen resolution is the same and more important the size is perfect. It could be just like the LG phone that had two screens, not the wing, the one that opened like a book. The problem is that the replacement panel has no usb-C or any ports. Is there an adapter like the ones used on laptops screens. It has to adapt the flex connection to usb-C.

I'm looking for some guidance on how I should go about configuring my first DIY NAS. I'm planning on creating a very large media server to host BD rips and lossless audio. I just ordered the Fractal Design Refine 7 XL for all the HDD bay space, and I was going to use my wife's old gaming rig setup as the basis for the system. I'm wondering about how I could go about setting up the storage drives with redundancy and parity while still being able to expand in the future as I add drives to the system. I'm very much a novice in this area so I was planning on sticking with the already installed Windows. Any help and "simple" solutions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Budget (including currency): < 100 $ Country: Russia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: office work, light video editing, mediacenter Details: So I just happend to salvage a gaming laptop carcass from a colleague and I want to renovate it into something workable for my grandpa. Thoughts, ideas and comments are much appreciated. IMG20221204224928.heic It WAS an MSI GS63 once, and still has perfectly fine GTX 1060, i7-8750H, an NVMe SSD, Wi-Fi card and 16G of DDR4 — all tested and working. But pretty much all the rest is busted and/or missing: - downside D-panel is missing - blowers are broken and removed - screen is half-busted and removed with the lid altogether - battery holds almost no charge - Wi-Fi antennae are just dangling around, but work fine I don't know and don't want to know what kinds of horrors this thing has been through. But is would be a shame to send it to waste, because it is still a decently powerful setup, which can even game just fine. So I want to give it a new life in a form of a Frankenstein-style mini-desktop for my grandpa, who still uses an old Toshiba laptop with Gen-2 Core i3 in it with no discrete GPU. It would be a nice upgrade for him. I KNOW it's better to just go and buy him a working second-hand laptop, but I'm really tight on cash and I realy want to reanimate this poor MSI thing. So, here is my plan: 1) Use a quality cardboard box as a base: screw its lid to the laptop using existing mounting holes, longer srews and some washers. I'll cover the contacting surface with electric tabe just in case. IMG20221204224907.heic 2) Use 2 full-size 120 mm chassis fans for cooling instead of replacing stock blowers. I'll mount those on the backside of the box's lid, and cut matching holes. IMG20221204225015.heic 3) Stock blowers use 5V and connect with super-small laptop 4-pin PWM connectors, so I can't use those. I'll wire fans to a Molex controller board like this and then power it via USB with this adaptor. USB provides only 5V instead of 12V, so fans will work at half speed. My guess is that even at half speed a 120 mm fan is more efficient than a super slim laptop blower, or at least comparable. And the setup will work way more silent than an actual gaming laptop. IMG20221204225027.heic 4) Drill some holes in the sides of the main box for airflow, cover them with some mesh to reduce dust. Use the inside of the box to store the power brick, because the cable is too long. 5) Connect the «box-top» monster to a monitor with HDMI and use wireless keyboard and mouse for controls. If everything goes as planned, all the missing parts like fans, controller and an adaptor will cost less than 30$, and the whole thing will only take an evening to assemble and tune. The proper fixing of the laptop with genuine or copy parts from China will cost around 300$, which is way too much for me right now. Sorry for simplistic diagrams part, but I'm not an egineer or an artist to do better. If you have any better ideas — please share! I may find a guy with 3D-printer, but I've got zero experience at modelling and kinda anxious to order something with no prior testing.

Basically I want to change the PCIE 8 pin cables feeding into my GPU. The current cable that came included with the power supply is too thick, making it difficult to install the glass panel without pressing the GPU inwards, as well as being too ugly (picture attached). I know that one is not supposed to mix power cables from different PSU's, so I assume that I can't just use any "custom or modded" cable. So I'd appreciate if you can share some information with me on how to choose the appropriate cable, and if it's ok to just change the cables feeding into the GPU while keeping the already existing cables feeding into the remaining components. I don't mind upgrading all the cables for better looks, but I'd prefer to stretch my expenditure over a long period of time as my budget has already been exceeded. Also is it better to get cables which are extensions or ones that plug directly into the PSU. I'd like to factor in cost and quality into consideration, I prefer higher quality but not to a point where I'll be paying a premium for a diminishing return. Another thing I wanna know is it ok if I use a 90 degree connector, or if I should just look for a cable with a 90 degree header. The specs of the parts involved for reference: PSU: ROG Strix 1000W Gold GPU:ROG Strix RTX3090

I have been looking into getting into Motion Capture ever since I started getting into Game Design and Development back in 2018. It seems like the most prominent search results are for subscription based software and some of those require costly equipment. There is support for Blender with these programs, but is it possible to do Motion Capture with only Blender and a DIY suit? If so, what links can you point me towards, suggestions on where I should start, or if you think this is not achievable to begin with please state why.

Budget (including currency): 1600 euro Country: Europe - Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: escape from tarkov, league of legends, cs go, and also some single player story games - tomb raider etc. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I play at 1080p cause I have 144hz monitor 1080p. https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/wpNGDq - my list of parts these are the parts that I have picked - I’m mainly wondering if I’m okay with the main parts and whether or not I should maybe upgrade some of these parts - cpu, gpu, mobo. im using the Lexar 256 m2 for windows only - I’m also wondering if that’s okay to install windows on the gen3 not the gen4 m2. any tips welcome thank you

New to the forum. Watching LTT youtube for years. A little bit background about myself: Electrical Engineer in the states that travels from work site to work site frequently. Has a ThinkPad E15 Gen2 issued by my current employer. I always enjoy working with 2 monitors when possible. So I started looking up cheap 15.6" portable USB-C monitors on Aliexpress. I end up got one for around $80. Nothing fancy, 1080p and supports single USB-C connection for both Video and power supply. The seller claims that the monitor supports reverse charging to my laptop if connected with the power brick came with my laptop. This is one of the most important feature for me. I don't want to connect seperate HDMI, USB power cable every time when I need to use the monitor. A signle USB-C cable solution is optimal for people processing cheap laptop that only came with one USBC/TB port and also need it for charging. Anyway. The monitor works ok for its major functions, the panel seemed to be even better then the 300nits junk came with my ThinkPad. But I don't like the cheap cover type stand that came with it, you know, like those cover stands for ipads. Not very stable, need a good surface, sometime would allow the monitor to slip etc. I want a foldable, stable, rigid stand for my cheap portable monitor, and it better looks cool! I found nothing existing based on these search criteria. Luckly, My monitor happens to have a VESA75 M4 bolt pattern at the back. So I can build one myself. First thing first, I chose to use some kind of friction hinge (Similar to the hinge in your laptop) to build any part of my stand that requires rotation. I found the following on Aliexpress, seemed to be easy to work with and has a lot of stiffness to keep my monitor stand straight. Then I fired up Fusion360 to create a design based on using 4 of these hinges. I chose to designed the components so that they can easly be laser cut out of 3 mm stainless steel or aluminum plates. Of course some features require drilling and tapping, and even CNC milling. The design will be mostly flat and stays within the projection footprint when folded behind my monitor. But will also unfold and become a more typical stand. People with sharp physics instinct probably already noticed that the base of the this stand is a bit too short to support the monitor from tilting in some daily angles. So I change the base design a little bit. Note that the part that will be on the front side of the monitor has been extended. This change of base design will make the overall footprint expand out of the projection area of the monitor when folded. Hense became less foldable and ugly. So I had to change the design of the VESA mount and center supporting bar. This also created some room of adaptability for different size portable monitors if needed. I also designed different size center support bars trying to accommodate different size monitors. I have sent drawings out for fabrication. If folks are interested in my little project I will keep posting updates. ----------------------------------------------------------------11/11/2022 Update---------------------------------------------------------------- The parts showed up in a DHL package yesterday. Of course being so cheap they had to miss a few features... They forgot to Drill and tap all the M2.5x0.45 mini screw holes! So I had to do it with a hand drill. I also had to file the Radius feature on the center support bar. But after all that. The thing assembles fine.

So there's not a single decent router that you can buy in the us that still has DSL support especially ADSL+ support so I'm thinking I could just build my own. up here in the mountains it's DSL or Internet that's it. Starlink isn't possible down here and the modem frontier provided is horse crap. it's wifi speeds are slow it doesn't support the latest standards it's range sucks it only has 2 Ethernet ports it's link speed is 757kbps and it's just awful and I'm wondering if there's anyway I could use a old Dell optiplex and have it work with opensense while having it's wan hooked up from ADSL+ is this possible in any way? But still have all the latest features like wifi 6 2.3 and 5ghz port forwarding gigabyte Ethernet wpa3 long range and still receiving updates? Is this all possible?

i need advice on modding a ASRock DESKMEET X300 Mini PC Barebone for use as a nas / giga-switch / vm build my plan is to add a AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 64gb of ram SK Hynix Gold P31 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive for main os an vm's 2 x Seagate BarraCuda 5TB Hard Drive HDD – 2.5 Inch (ST5000LM000) to mount internal for raid back up of most vatial data of the external 20gb QNAP QXG-2G4T-I225 Quad-Port 2.5 GbE Network Expansion Card 1 x Yottamaster Aluminum Alloy 5 Bay 2.5/3.5 inch USB3.1 Type C External Hard Drive Enclosure SABRENT USB Type-C to Dual 3.5” SATA and RAID Docking Station DS-2BCR with 2 x Seagate IronWolf Pro 10TB (ST10000NE000) upgrade psu to sfx an cables add 120mm aio vi external modding something like this 1. whats the psu form factor an size , as id like to replace with a fully modular gold efficient psu an custom cables by cablemods. 2. does anyone have any tear-down pix of the inside ? 3. does this take full size ddr4 ram 4. has anyone run truenas core or scale 5. does the mobo support a 5600g out-of-the-box with out firmware update 6. can i install a pci multi port Ethernet card an run truenas with router os in a vm an config some of the ports as vlan's an leave the others as just normal lan ports, is this something i can do vi router os an from a vm in truenas https://www.newegg.com/asrock-deskmeet-x300w-b-bb-box-us/p/N82E16856158083

Is my asus tuf 3070 sagging? Its difficult for me to see and does it NEED a brace or do i just leave it?

Hi! Is it possible to create a diy laptop cooler with pc fans? I did some research, but i don't know is it possible that: i buy a power supply, a speed controller (for example Noctua NA-FC1) and 3 fans

HI. I have a HP 280 Pro G3 MT. Its power supply died and I am NOT looking forward to purchasing a replacement power supply from HP. Now here's my question. My board has three 4 pin connectors and one 7 pin connector. Can I use a normal PSU to power it? with an adapter for the 7 pin connector? Also does all 4 pin connectors supply 12V?

This question is regarding the Optiplex 9020 I'm attempting to convert into a personal server, that I first mentioned here, posted in Servers and NAS. I'm not really familiar with the technical language used to describe the differences between each of the connectors involved, so bare with me here. But, if you look at the image I've attached you can kind of get a better idea of what I'm working with. Basically, the 6-pin plug on the left is the connection I have to the system's mobo and ends in one SATA power connector. I need three drives for my server set-up, one as the boot drive, and the other two as the redundant storage pool. The mobo features three SATA data connections, and the one puny power connector; So, I think I should be able to make it work if I replace the power connector with a three way splitter that'll daisy-chain everything together, like the one on the right I bought off Amazon. Question is, can I replace the connector on the amazon cable with the existing one from the system with a bit of solder and heat-shrink, and have everything work out, or is there some difference in the connection standards or limit on power the mobo can push from this one small-form-factor connection that'd make it impossible to run two 3.5" Barracuda HDDs and 2.5" Adata SSD? The system has a 255W power supply so ... (Fun part is, I don't think I'm even going to be able to fit all of the drives in question inside of this tiny PC, I'm likely going to need to drill a hole in the side of the PC's case and hot glue one of the 3.5 HDDs on the side of the case, lmao.)

This is sort of a follow-up to my last thread here. I bought an M.2 SATA SSD for my laptop and I want to cool only the controller chip while leaving the other ones (i.e. DRAM and NAND flash) untouched. So I bought a be quiet! MC1 Pro M.2 heatsink and managed to cut a piece off with a hacksaw, and smoothed and sides and edges with a filer, to fit that controller. However, I'm worried that any tiny debris from the cutoff ends of the copper heatpipe (or the heatpipe itself) may fall out and damage the electronics inside the laptop so I wonder if I should glue the sides of the piece with thermal glue or something. If that's all I need to do or if there any better ideas, thanks.

I'm looking into adding some bias lighting to my 34" Xiaomi monitor. I don't really want to spend too much on lights (never was a fan of RGB, but I do spend many late hours studying). The most common options I've found are Hyperion.ng, Hyperion, and prismatik. Any personal experience with either of these, or any others to suggest? I have a pro micro laying around, and from what I've seen it's sufficient for Hyperion.ng.