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Yea, just like the title says I'm looking into selling my current PC to help finance getting a pre-built just so I can get my hands on a 3080. I've never sold old pc hardware before so I don't know what is standard, but I figure 50% of retail is more than fair. But would still like other people's opinions on if I'm asking for to much, or am I actually asking for to little. Would be asking for $600 CAD, breakdown of price is below Ryzen 5 3600: $150 MSI B450-A PRO: $50 2x8GB DDR4 Patriot Viper: $30 Gigabyte Windforce GTX 1080: $300 NZXT H440: $30 EVGA 650W PSU:$30 512GB ADATA SU800: $20 Budget (including currency): TBD Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: I play a large variety of games, anything from Bind of Isaac, to Destiny, the recently released God of War pc port Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):

I have an awesome idea I would love to see a video on. If not I'd make it myself after a long long time because it seems interesting. A table with touch screen tablets inlaid into the surface that are covered and used as touch screens for attached monitors via a network of custom cables. For background, I never owned a pc for nearly 20 years, and so while I do love my pc I've had for about 3 months now I have stretched the limits of what android could do for years. Android supports many niche features that otherwise I didn't know was possible such as display output via the port on the bottom or even being able to use the android device as a second powered monitor for a pc! It supports USB hubs (but you have to make sure the USB hub is fast enough to support the phones full connection speeds) and I have gotten great success with just plugging it in n it working in most cases. This brings me to the idea I had l. It was just a musing at first but it became more than that really quickly. I spent the last 6 or so hours engulfed in designing a table where you knock on a squared off section of the wood and the monitor on the wall lights up to an android swipe unlock screen. You can swipe on the table and unlock the screen and use the tablet in the table (that you can only see from the marked off section) to control the screen! There are 3 USB c ports on the side edge of the table all connected to the tablet. One port is dedicated to the charging of the device (via a magnetic charging connector attached at the end so its snag proof) and the other 2 are for the monitor (wirelessly or wired) and for USB drives/updates/adaptors you want to use. This would be easily implemented with Android. The only technical problems I can think of would be a power button extention out the side of the tablet on to the side edge of the table (just in case power ran out in the device and it needs to be turned back on) and potentially the wifi not reaching the device as easily as expected in which case the antenna internally needs to be moved towards the surface of the table. The hardest part would be the custom cables and getting them to not be filled with resin or the casting material on the edges of the table. The internal cables would be fully connected and in place during the casting so connections would not be integrated from being encased (tho I'd have the device depowered just in case) then potentially the power button being a pain... Hmm probably lead the wires to the edge and dremel out the pocket for the small pcb for the power button and use touch up materials? My idea would take the shape of a completely normal looking wooden table with a gloss finish that you can hav by a wall that is a hidden tablet control for a wall mounted monitor (or sitting in the middle of the table) I know LTT doesn't typically do cool custom android stuff or have the same cult following as Apple products have but this idea was a fun one. Thanks for your time reading my idea! If you like the idea feel ree to nab it but please link me a pic of video of the end product here.

Hello there, As a fun holiday project, I want to program a custom doorbell. When I press a Bluetooth button (one of those cheep ones from selfie sticks), I want a python script (running on my phone) to recognize it. As far as I am aware, Android automatically creates a "Media-Button-Pressed" type of event. I simply cannot find a python script, that listens for this event. I already found solutions in Java for this problem, but since the only language I'm somewhat familiar with is pyhton, I'd like to use the mentioned programming language. Thanks in advance.

CPU AMD Ryzen 5950x Motherboard Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero RAM G.SKILL Trident Z Royal Elite Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) 3600Mhz CL14 DDR4 GPU EVGA Nvidia 3080 ti FTW3 and Gigabyte Nvidia 1050 ti Physx Card Case Corsair 7000X RGB Storage Samsung 980 PRO 2TB, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Samsung 870 EVO 4TB, Dual Western Digital 8TB Black HDD PSU EVGA Supernova 1200 P3, 80 Plus Platinum 1200W Display(s) Dual Alienware 38" 3840x1600 144Hz, Samsung 65" 8k Q800 Cooling Corsair XD7 w/ EKWB Monoblock, EKWB GPU block and EKWB active backplate; Dual Corsair 360 Radiators Keyboard Corsair k100 OPX Mouse Mad Catz R.A.T. 8 Sound Creative Soundblaster AE-5 with Corsair SP2500 2.1, Logitech PRO headphones Operating System WIN10 PRO Laptop MSI G73 Raider 11UH-053 *[Samsung EVO Plus 2TB M.2 and Kingston FURY Impact 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 2933 MHz CL17 UPGRADES] Phone Samsung Fold 3 TMobile 5G

Hi everyone, If anyone has been following the build I've been planning for the last few weeks, I have finally finished it! Cpu - 5960x overclocked to 4.7ghz @1.22v Aio - Arctic Freezer II 420mm Motherboard - Asus X99-S Ram - 32gb 8x4gb ddr4 3000mhz GPU - GTX Titan X Pascal PSU - Corsair 1000w 80+ Gold Case - Phanteks p500a Ssd - sata 240gb Kingston drive HDD - 4tb Toshiba 7200rpm Sensor panel - cheap raspberry pi screen I will be adding benchmarks to this post soon, and comparing it to my 3700x build which has a comparable cpu (8c 16t) I play at 1440p 144hz (gsync) and so far it's running great. I've played Devil May Cry 5 and it's been a solid 140-220fps, but appreciate that's not an ideal test for the setup Let me know what you all think, and if you have any questions or specific tests you'd like me to do This platform seems like a viable option given I got the motherboard, cpu, and ram for about £200, whereas the 3700x I was considering would have cost that on it's own

Are custom loops better than regular air coolers or AIO’s in terms of temps? I’ve been thinking about this for a while now and I know, custom loops look sick if they are done correctly. But is it actually practical for temps? Do you get way better temps from it for your CPU and GPU? Are they easy to build?

Hey Guys, I'm currently modding a Macintosh Classic to a modernish PC. Now that I'm nearing to finish this project I'm searching for a good looking keyboard that will suit it well. I've already modded an "Apple Desktop Bus Mouse" to be wireless and compatible. So if anyone out there has a good recommendation to buy without breaking the bank, feel free to post them here. I would also appreciate, if you have suggestions of building custom keyboards (with partlists) or some guide of modding old ones to be USB or wireless. Those three keyboards i have found and thought about them, but the DURGOD ones are too expensive for me.

For a couple of days now the wireless internet has been inconsistent and sometimes hasn't been working at all. The internet itself is fine because Ethernet is working. Its just the wireless which was having issues. After a while I decided to reset the router, the router I have is the Night Hawk R8000. But its important to note that I have tomato firmware installed on it. After I reset the router I tried to log into it using the default logins so I can configure the router. But when I tried using the default logins of admin/@Newdig it didn't work, none of the logins I tried worked. I need your help to get access to the router or to get it into a configurable state.

i have made a monster using 4 60mm fans i have made 1 large 120mm fan

Budget : unlimited Country: USA I want to build a custom PC to run in three different rooms in my house on three different floors of the house. I will have in total 7 different monitors from tv, projectors, VR headset and regular pc monitors. They will range from 1080p 60fps to 4k. I'm not sure what I need to expand the number of monitors allowed on a single rig. Is this only dependent on the number of GPU or do I need something else. If anyone has a better solution I'm all ears. Please and Thank you

Howdy LTT, I've recently been overhauling an old Razer BlackWidow keyboard as a side project. i got it all soldered up, but now it looks like its missing a PCB trace. im happy to grab whatever i can to repair this, but i dont know how or where to get started. id love any tips, thanks gang!

the name of the PC i build will be called, "dreamin" a 4k gaming/ streaming/ editing workstation Budget (including currency): $10,000.00 USD (10k) Country: Murika' Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Resolve with 10 bit 4k video files, StreamLabs OBS, Crysis, borderlands, Diablo 2:R, C.O.D. Warzone Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): This is the newegg wish list: https://newegg.io/8509b5b MoBo - ASUS ROG Strix X299-E Gaming II RAM - G.SKILL Z Royal Elite 64GB (4 x 16GB) 3600 (CL 14) CPU - Intel Core i9-10980 XE (18c 32t ) AIO - Corsair H150i ELITE 360mm GPU - NVIDIA EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti FTW3 HYBRID COPPER WC - CORSAIR Hydro X Series iCUE XH305i PSU - Seasonic SYNCRO 850w 80+ Platinum SSD - SAMSUNG 980 PRO 2 TB (boot) SSD - SAMSUNG 970 EVO+ 2 TB (media) SSD - SAMSUNG 870 EVO 4TB (storage) HDD - WD Black 8 TB (back-up) Sound Card - Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Capture Card - Elgato 4k60 PRO Mk.2 PhysX Card - CORN GTX 750 CASE - Corsair 5000X RGB APC - APC BX1500M RGB - LIAN LI STRIMER PLUS 24 PIN Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut WIN X PRO Monitor - Samsung Odyssey G7 Headset - Logitech G Pro X Keyboard - Corsair K70 Mk.2 MX Speed Mouse - Mad Catz R.A.T. 8 Upgrading From A Dell Inspiron 7559S Notebook CPU - intel i7 4c4t @ 3ghz GPU - Nvidia 960m RAM - HyperX 16GB ddr3 2133mhz SSD - Samsung 860 Evo 1TB x2 Monitor - 16" 4k Touchscreen I am buying this next month and would like any advice is appreciated. i need to play games 1440p @ 240 FPS and edit 10-bit 4k up to 120 mins. I want to turn the case side panal into a LCD transparent screen eventually; is this possible?

I am looking to build my father a new PC since his 2014 HP Pavilion just went off to PC hell. I linked the build layout below. Link: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CTd8fP Budget (including currency): Whatever I have. (so probably around $1k) Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Basic computing and occasional file editing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I already own the CPU and RAM, I am looking for feedback on whether this is a good choice for my father

Hello there everyone! I was thinking I should make a little Intro to keyboards for beginners or can be a revision for seasoned keyboard enthusiast. This is an Introduction to Mechanical Keyboards and customs or just keeb stuff in general. I highly recommend checking out the Mechanical Keyboards subreddit and Keyboard Youtubers such as Taeha Types, Andy V Nguyen, Glarses, Hamaji Neo, Josef Chung, Jaeyou Park, Hipyo Tech and So many more. These channels have a lot of educational value (of keyboards) and also sprinkle a bit of comedy, some of them have sound tests of switches which I highly recommend you watching wen deciding a switch.. But now lets get into it. Lets start off with the Case. The case is the thing that holds all the shit in the keyboard together basically. There isn't really much to say about that case until we get into the PCB. Cases are usually made out of Aluminum, Plastic or Acrylic. The PCB or Printed Circuit Board is like the motherboard of the Keyboard. It registers your keystrokes and sends it to the computer, in some cases it holds your switches in (I'll talk about that later). Usually to put your switches into the PC you have to solder them with a Soldering Iron. Now today Hotswap PCBs have become more common (Hotswap PCBs are basically in every solder joint that the PCB has it is replaced with something called a Hotswap Socket, this allows you to just slot the switches inside the PCB without soldering. This is a huge time saver. The biggest manufacture of these sockets are Kale and Gateron). Another thing with PCBs is mounting. There are various of mounting styles. Popular ones include: Gasket Mount (where foam or rubber pads is stuck onto the Plate (talk about that later) or onto the board this provides a more softer typing feel and overall has more flex*), Tray Mount (That where the pcb is screwed into the case with stands off on the case, this is usually fine but most custom keyboards people are not a fan of it as it stiffens the typing feel) and So Many more! Again I encourage you to do your research on this if your interested Hotswap Sockets in a PCB DZ60RGB PCB (KBDFANS) (Example of how a common PCB looks like) *Unlike Laptop Keyboards, In the community the amount of flex a keyboard has usually contributes to the typing feel and in some cases sound and a lot of people in the community like that. Now going up! We have the plate. There isn't really much to say about the plate, sometimes is holds your switches sometimes your stabilizers, sometimes both. But what it does is it secures your switches onto the PCB and keep the aligned. It also provides an way to mount your PCB onto the case as I mentioned in the PCB section of this Post. It also changes the feel of the way you type and the sound. Metallic Plates like Aluminum and Brass provide a very stiff feel and provide sometimes a pinging noise as of plates like Polyoxymethylene (aka POM) and Polycarbonate are more flexible and provide a more dense typing sound. The Plate also changes how different keys sound scattered on the board. We're Almost There! With Stabilizers. The provide stability (as in the title) to some of the longer keys such as Shift, Caps Lock, Enter, Spacebar etc. and prevent them from leaning to the other side of you don't press on the key on center. The two types of way stabilizers are mounted are Plate Mounted or PCB Mounted (Screw ins). The way that the community measures the length of these keycaps are with the letter you. 1u for example is like one of the alpha numeric keys on the keyboard like the letters, numbers and F keys. So to measure longer keycaps all you have to do is put your 1u keycaps till they measure out. It is very referenced when buying keycaps are talking about keycaps in general but I highly encourage you to look into this. We're Here! Switches. These are probably the most known elements of a keyboard. Switches are the things in the keyboard that make the sounds. There are mainly three types of switches. Linear Switches have a "linear travel when pressed meaning they require a uniform increase in force to press the switch" (For the types of switches I will be quoting Taeha Types in his video Anatomy Of A Custom Keyboard which I think I couldn't have said better myself) "There is no bump or click to the switch to let you now when the switch is actuated" (actuated is a fancy word for when the pcb register your keystroke). "Tactile Switches follow a long linear travel usually requiring a build up of force to overcome a tactile event generally in the form of a bump, around the point of actuation. Clicky Switches are switches that have a clicker mechanism of some sort that generates an audible click of some sorts". The anatomy of a switch includes the stem which is usually a cross shaped piece usually made of Nylon but can be made out of other materials like POM which I mentioned earlier. The Spring where the Stem sits, this controls the force needed to actuate the switch. The Bottom Housing where the spring lies and keeps it together with the top housing. Now there are a lot of popular ways to categories these types with colours. Blue Switches: These switches are usually Clicky and are tactile. Red Switches: These switches are linear and usually the lightest switch in a companies line up. Yellow Switches: These switches are similar to red but have a more heavier spring and or usually more smoother popularized by the hit budget switch Gateron Yellow switches which have been dubbed in a sense "Butter On a Budget" Brown Switches: These switches are tactile no click and are a mildly controversial switch due to their stems. They are called tactile but the tactile event is so weak that some people would classify them as linears. Black Switches: These switches are usually the heaviest linears in a lineup. There are a bunch more of colours like whites and pink but to keep this post brief I'll just talk about the most popular ones. The Biggest manufactures of switches are Cherry (which is arguably the most popular one but not the best), Gateron, Kalih, JWK, Durock and So Many More! Again I highly encourage you to do more research if you are interested. To add to these a very good modification is Lube and Film. (And no we are not having sex with switches get your mind out the gutter) Lube is to make your switches sound as smooth as possible and film is a little plastic or felt piece you put inside of the switch to decrease stem wobble and make the switches sound more deep. And the last part of your build keycaps. I talked briefly about keycaps in the Stabilizers section but not in detail. Lets start with Profiles. Usually different keycaps have different shapes in turn giving a different sound and typing feel. Popular profiles include: OEM (which are the keycaps that you probably currently have on your keyboard, these are one of if not the most popular keycaps not due to efficiency of typing or sound but because more keyboard manufactures like Corsair, ROG, Razer and so on use them. These are tall keycaps and slanted), Cherry (This is a popular enthusiast keycaps as popular keycaps creators such as GMK and Tao Hao use them. They are basically smaller OEM Keycaps). SA (Another popular enthusiast keycap profile, this provides a more wooden block sound to your switches, they are a very chonky switch very tall and a bit rotund), MT3 (Similar to SA Keycaps but shrunk down a bit and shaped a bit differently). Again There are SO MANY TYPES of keycap profiles and I encourage for the last time on this post to go to further research if your interested. Now materiel of the keycaps do matter, PBT and ABS Plastic are the most popular. GMK and Tao Hao use ABS which is similar to PBT. ABS feels and sounds better but PBT legends last longer. In my opinion PBT is better for intense gamers and ABS is better for day to day typists. Terminology used to the community and/or to purchase parts: GB: Meaning Group Buy, similar to a pre order but the company hasn't made them yet. IC: Interest Check, this is usually attached with a form asking you if you are interest in their product to they can start making it. Thock: Controversial term some love it some hate it but it's the sound wooden block sound that I was talking about earlier. Vendors: Vendors are places where you can get keyboard parts, Vendors are specific to your region*. R(number): These usually means Revision, so R3 would be Revision three this is usually used when buying cases Vendors according to Regions, info taken from Alexotos Vendor Region list: Canada: Ashkeebs – Parts & accessories. – stachekeebs for 5% off Zeal – Switches, parts & kits. Keyspresso – Keyboard parts and accessories. ApexKeyboards – Canadian keyboard supplies. MTBkeys – Canadian keyboard case manufacturer. Deskhero – Keyboards, accessories, and headphones. Vintkeys – Vintage keys & accessories. Minokeys – Keyboard Parts & accessories. Mech Land – Keyboards & accessories. Malvix Studio – Keyboards parts & accessories. Keyz.io – Keyboard kits WestM – Keyboard accessories RNDKBD – Keyboard kits/parts – ALEXTHEGOAT for 5% off Gboards – Parts and groupbuys! tokeebs – Parts & accessories Shockport – Keyboards parts & accessories Alphakeys – Parts & accessories HypeKeyboards – FR4 Plates KumaMech – Parts. keycaps, & accessories Agile Cables – Cables and Desk Pads United States of America: Kinetic Labs – Keyboards accessories Space Cables – Keycaps, cables, and accessories. Omnitype – Accessories, keycaps, & more. Apiary Keyboards – Content creator and build services. Novelkeys – Parts, kits, & accessories. *DROP – General keyboard goods. Elboard Keyboard Supply – Use code alexotos for 5%! Mechanical Keyboards The Key Dot Company Originative Co Asceny Gear Cannon Keys Ungodly.design – Website Teal Technik – Website for accessories Prime Keyboards – Parts and accessories Little Keyboards – Parts and PCBs. Keycult – Premier High-end Keyboards. Ringerkeys – Lube and accessories. Clawsome Boards – Keyboard parts and macro kits! Divinikey – Parts & accessories – ALEXOTOS 5% off Prevail Key Co – Lube, parts & accessories. Bolsa Supply – Keyboards parts. LastPadawan – Keyboards and accessories. Vala Supply – Keycaps and accessories. Keeb.io – Parts, kits and more! 415Keys – Keyboard parts and switches. Typr.tools – Parts and accessories 3dKeebs – Parts & Accessories American Haptics – Keycaps and silicone work mats. Thockeys – General parts & accessories 1upkeyboards – Kits, parts & accessories Dangkeebs – Keyboards, parts & more Flashquark – Keycaps & various parts eType – Acrylic Keyboards Stupid Bullets Tech – Keyboard accessories Keyspensory – Keycaps and more! Bespokekeys – Keyboard parts and accessories. CFTKB – Keyboard kits cbkbd – Keyboard Kits Keebz – Keyboard parts & Accessories United Kingdom: Noxary – Keyboards Mechboard.co.uk – Keyboards & accessories MechSupply / Uk-Keycaps – Keycaps Mechbox – Keyboard accessories Cablecult – Cables & parts Kiwi Keebs – Parts & accessories Keebcats – Parts & accessories Merge Design – Macro Pads Unspoken Deskpads – Desk mats Caps unlocked – Keyboards and accessories Optic Keyboards – Keyboard parts Protozoa Studio – Keyboard accessories Prototypist – Keyboards, accessories and more NOESC – Switches and Keycaps Asia Kibou – Keyboards and Parts. – code “alexotos” for 5% off KBDfans – Parts, kits, & pre-assembled boards. Graystudio – Keyboard kits kprepublic – Parts, keyboards & accessories. Wuque Studio – Keyboards and accessories. Keys.my – Parts and Lube Percent Studio – Custom keyboard Monstargear – Keyboards and accessories. Melgeek – Parts and cases + extras! iLumKB – Parts zFrontier Yushakobo.jp – Keyboards & accessories. Kochi Keyboard – Keyboard parts Thick Thock – Keyboards and parts Zion Studio – Keyboards accessories and parts Mechkey Store – Keyboard accessories & cables Justkeys – Cables, artisans & deskmats Tokyo Keyboard – Keyboard kits & accessories Swagkeys – Keyboards & parts Pantheon Keys – Parts & accessories Momoka – Switches, keycaps, and switch testers Australia RAMA WORKS – Beautiful high end kits & accessories. Switchkeys Australia – Keycaps and parts! Lowkeykeyboards – Website Keyboard Treehouse – Keyboard kits / parts Daily Clack – Kits, parts and accessories Europe Salvun – Keyboards projects, parts, & more. Loob.no – A variety of lubricant’s, accessories and more. Candykeys – Website Keygem – Website Qlavier Homerow Co. – Keyboard Parts Oblotzky.Industries Mykeyboard.eu – Parts and keysets based in the EU FalbaTech – Keyboard kits Mekanisk – Keyboards & accessories Keebwerk – Keyboards & accessories Splitkb – Split keyboards and accessories Keycapsss – Keyboards parts Eloquent Clicks – Keyboards & accessories 42.keebs – Parts & accessories ioKeyboards – Keycaps and parts Central/South America: Fancy Customs – Keycaps, keyboards & parts LatamKeys – Keyboards parts and accessories RHESET – Keyboards part & accessories Africa CtrlShiftEsc – Keyboards and accessories Other: kono – Variety of keyboards. Keyhive – Parts and unique keyboard items. LFKeyboards – Website EUNBU – Vintage Switches Hexkeyboards – Keycaps & accessories AVX Works – Plates *Another great tool to use is keebmap! It’s a great interactive map of some great vendors in the hobby! Also some of the text copied weird With that said that's my Intro to Mechanical Keyboards. Have fun tearing down your Corsair K70s only to realize that it doesn't have a Hotswap PCB. Welcome to the Custom Keyboard rabbit Hole! Have fun

I want a NAS that will be capable of the following: Perform backups of PC, phone... (encrypted) Act as a Plex media server (a single 4K Blu-ray quality video stream with no transcoding) Act as a BitTorrent client As the video files I want to stream have a high bitrate, I first thought about the Synology DS720+ which has a 4 core Intel Celeron J4125 which I'm sure it's powerfull enough. However, as it costs around 480 EUR, I'm considering a custom build NAS for that price and run Unraid on it (because of the increased performance and modularity). My budget is around 500 EUR, drives not included (which are going to be 2x 4TB HDD) and Unraid license also not included. Is the custom build approach worth it for my use cases? If yes, I'm really lost on which pc parts I would have to pick. Could I have some orientation or any NAS build example for my purpose? Thanks.

Hello, I am looking for a website/store that can do custom hats, I have one that I really wanted to be made done but I can't really seem to find anywhere that can offer a lot of customization or one that I can post an image and have it automatically turned into the custom hat. Any help will do pls. I am willing to pay at least 50 for it. Thank You.

Budget (including currency): Just trying to save money Country: US of A Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming ( Just trying to get by and start streaming a bit until I can buy a reasonably priced Graphics card ) Other details :I bought a pre-build a couple years ago not knowing anything about PC's, I just wanted to play games. Now I want to play games and be good at them while streaming them. Yet I still know very little about computers. I threw this build together, I have an old graphics cards that kind of sucks so please help me out with all of your guys' knowledge. I am wanting to get a PC as soon as reasonably possible. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MrCrafted/saved/#view=MHV899

Greetings, My background: I'm currently saving up for a new PC. I know HOW to build my own, and have so in the past. I've been upgrading various parts in my current PC over the past 10 years (and as such, the only 'part' that is the same as when I bought it, is the case :D ). However, for various reasons, I've been saving up for a new PC and should have the money for my desired specs by the end of the month. I do NOT want a 'pre-built' system, I am aiming for a 'custom-built' one. As mentioned, I do know how to build my own, but I really do not like doing it (I'm more of a software guy). I was planning on CyberPowerPC, as my last experiences with them (~10 years ago) was good. But on researching, I've seen ...'less than stellar' reviews of them for the past couple of years, so I have my reservations. (however, this was for pre-built systems and I can't really find any reviews on custom-build ones)> I have since also looked into iBuyPower, NZXT, and a few others with not much better reviews. Now I am fully aware that typically people leave more negative reviews than positive ones, and many forums are populated by the 'exceptional' bad lemons rather than the general quality of any particular brand. Anyone have feedback on recent experiences with a custom build from any of these companies? Thank you.

Budget (including currency): Up to $4,000. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Modern games, shooters, FPS, role-play, whatever (Cyberpunk, Crysis x, Arma, Division, Sniper, Batman...) Also work - primarily AutoCAD/BricsCAD (2D only). Monitors: Presently using a Samsung 55" 4k TV. I'm not certain if it supports 60hz @ 4k - it may only do 30hz. Someday I'll look to upgrade this but it looks great now. I presently run my desktop at 1080p as things are too small at 4k resolution (I sit about 8' from the screen). But for gaming I want the highest the system will provide. Peripherals: Already have my keyboard & trackball. My SoundBlaster G6 drives the headset. Why are you upgrading? Presently using a MSI GT70 for my primary machine - and even with a 980M video upgrade it's showing limitations for current gaming. I've built my own PC's for years but given the current market it seems buying assembled is cheaper. I've also never done watercooling. I was considering Xidax but they seem a little limited in their offerings at least today. IBuyPower looks like a reasonable option though I'm open to alternatives. Are these components balanced for performance - or am I either limiting the system with a critical item or spending money on a part that will never be used? My thoughts - case seems good quality for price based on what I've heard - no experience. Processor - 5900X is supposed to be better than 5950X for gaming. MB - here's where I have the least comfort. Would a B550, like a Tomahawk, be better? Is this particular board good? I don't *think* I need Dark Hero stuff. Memory - looks like the best IBuyPower has available. Power Supply - this one *looks* good but should I go with an alternate like the Seasonic? CPU Cooler - I believe this model is well reviewed online. Any reason to spend more? It's cheap enough that I don't think going smaller is appropriate unless there's a reliability/leak issue. Primary Storage - I *was* interested in the WD Black SN750 2TB but IBuyPower isn't listing it anymore. Then again - is this a speed that I won't use? Sound - here's a slight side question. Can I have 5.1 audio encoded and played through the HDMI or DisplayPort of the video card? I don't mean game generated 5.1 - I mean previously encoded movies that need Dolby processing (which the Realtek audio supports) decoded/encoded and sent over the HDMI to be played by my receiver as Dolby or DTS instead of just 2-channel? With my laptop that wasn't an option - I didn't know if current products provide for a connection between the soundcard/onboard audio and the video card. Link to the configurator with details below: https://www.ibuypower.com/Store/AMD-Ryzen-9-Configurator-II/W/1537364 Case NZXT H710 Tempered Glass Gaming Case - Matte White Processor AMD Ryzen 9 5900X Processor (12X 3.7GHz/64MB L3 Cache) Motherboard GIGABYTE X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI - WiFi , ARGB Header (2), USB 3.2 Ports (6 Type-A), M.2 Slot (2) Memory 16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR4-4000 Memory Module-Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory Video Card AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT - 16GB (VR-Ready) Power Supply 850 Watt - Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB - 80 PLUS Gold, Fully Modular Processor Cooling iBUYPOWER DEEPCOOL GAMERSTORM RGB 360mm CASTLE 360EX Liquid Cooler Primary Storage 2TB SEAGATE FIRECUDA 520 M.2 PCI-E 4.0 NVME Gen 4 SSD - Gen4 Read: 5000 MB/s, Write: 4400 MB/s, Gen3 Read: 3450 MB/S, Write: 2500MB/s Secondary Storage 6TB WD Black Hard Drive -- 256MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s-Single Drive Sound Card 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard Network Card Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100) Operating System Windows 10 Pro-(64-bit) Warranty 3 Year Standard Warranty Service Case Fans 3x [ARGB] InWin 120mm Saturn ASN120 Pack w/ARGB Controller Advanced Cabling Options Professional Wiring - for all standard default cables inside the system Advanced Build Options - Thermal Paste Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste-Top of the range thermal paste with excellent thermal conductivity Subtotal $3,848.00

Hi forum! I'm looking at Xbox 360 Guitar Hero wired controllers, and they're insanely expensive, with used ones going for 150, in average condition, and new ones going for 300 dollars! I'm interested because I'm looking to stream Clone Hero soon, and came to the forum to see if there's anyone that makes a controller compatible with the game, possibly even custom, because if I'm going to pay 150+ I might as well make sure it works right? =) Hey, who knows, with any luck someone on the team can send the request up the chain, you miss 100% of the shots you don't take!

Hey all, I need some assistances on these prebuilds I'm stuck between the following 3 and unsure which one to go for Any input is appreciated PC will be mostly used for gaming and editing vids Thank! https://www.microcenter.com/product/635981/powerspec-g360-gaming-pc https://www.microcenter.com/product/630918/powerspec-g707-gaming-pc https://www.microcenter.com/product/636486/powerspec-g359-gaming-pc

i bought a custom pc and the downloading speed is terrible compared to other devices in my house. ive tried to reset my wi-fi, installed updated wi-fi software, and im out of words. i did have to install my own drivers with a disc, and because i didnt have a disk i had to use a usb and armoury crate, it says that everything i need is installed and that everything is ready to go, i probably being stupid but does anyone mind helping me out?

Hey all, Ive been a pc enthousiast for a while and i'm about to tackle my first custom waterloop in my "newly build" system. Recently ive upgraded my case to a ThermalTake View 71 and started collecting parts for my watercooling build. So far the parts i'm going for and/or already have are : - Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ( it has ekwb block on it for the vram the cpu is still seperate ) - Asus GTX 1080ti ( wich already has a ekwb block on it and backplate ) - Corsair Vengeance RGB 32gb (4x8gb) 3200mhz - AMD 2700x ( currently possibly changing to a 3950x or a 5900x ) - Corsair m.2 970 pro 1tb x2 - Corsair ssd 2tb - Corsair hx1200 watt powersupply - Corsair Hydro X Series XH303i RGB custom watercooling kit ( for good reason explained below ) - Corsair Hydro X Series XR5 360mm radiators x2 ( 1 included in the kit and 1 bought seperate ) - Bykski Distroplate for the ThermalTake View 71 ( 360rad size ) - Phanteks D140 Distroplate ( small size replacing the rear exhaust fan ) - iFixit Pro Kit ( thanks LTT ) Now for cooling wise clearly i want to go custom loop since i already have acquired some or atleast most parts. I'm still awaiting the arrival of both distroplates and some minor stuff but ive already started to build most of what i have into the case. The issue that i am facing or atleast that i think i am facing is. The Bykski Distroplate has a mount on it for a pump and i'm quoting the manufacturer atm "compatible with various brands ddc pumps or bykski own". Corsair XH303i comes with a kind of reservoir wich has a ddc pump wich i have taken apart and normaly ( according to my calculations ) is gonna fit on the Bykski distroplate. Now all the components i have and want to watercool or better sayed have a loop on it are the cpu, vram, gpu, 2x 360rads, 1 big distroplate wich wil function as reservoir and pump, 1 small distroplate. The thing i'm worried about or am wondering is, is that ddc pump gonna manage it for that entire loop or will i need to add a second pump/reservoircombo to the loop? Thanks in advance for any help or advice on this matter. Greetings Chimmie ps : picture added is how the build currently looks ( i have a corsair h100i running on it atm and a gtx 1070 to test fit everything and ofc testing to see if everything works and what my layout is gonna be, preplanning tubes and bends and such ).

I prefer air coolers, and I love the industrial design of the dark rock pro 4. I want to replace the 120mm external fan with a high static pressure rgb fan. My only concern is whether or not the bracket system will work with most fans. Has anyone else here tried it?

Heyo I want to have a full cover monoblock for an X570 board similar to that of the X570 Aqua (no longer available btw), but the waterblock doesn't exist. Is there some place that I could go to have them make a custom waterblock?