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Showing results for tags 'cpu cooling'.
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I have a ASUS Prime H610M-E D4, But I am not getting any idea for CPU cooling fan which one should I use as it have only one RGB header for which I want to control the RGB through Aura software. Any suggestion and help will be much appreciated.
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i have recently purchased a Ryzen 5 5600X and when i game it can reach temptures up to 98! i know it is harmful to my computer if it is that temperature for too long, but if i game for 3 say 2-3 hours at 90 Celsius and take breaks every so often to let it cool down would that hurt my pc?
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So about 5 months ago i build my pc with Ryzen 5 5600g. Using the stock cooler, temperature was ok but recently heat going up so thinking about getting an aftermarket cooler. Now Gammaxx 400pro was in my mindd but the new ak400 build is pretty impressive. So any suggestions which 1 should i go for?
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Hey i recently bought the Lian Li o11 mini, but i just dont know which cpu cooler to pick, i found 2 but i dont know which one would be better, im kinda a guy that goes much for looks aswell First Option would be Be Quiet Pure Rock 2 And the Second would be Be Quiet Pure Rock LP I personally like the low profile more, and i could get a better Airflow in the o11 mini with it, but i dont know if it will cool my CPU (I5-11400f) enough (pure rock 2 has 150W TDP, LP has 100w TDP) I would really like some tips or hear your personal experiences or general thoughts, or answers to if the 100W TDP would be enough (im still kinda new to this whole stuff)
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Hello, so I just upgraded from my old 750 watt psu to this new Rosewill cmg 1000 watt modular power supply and I’m having some issues. I did the standard unplugging the old pcie, cpu, and 24 pin cables from the motherboard. I plugged in the cables the new psu came with into their respective sockets in the power supply. I plugged them into their respective spots in the motherboard and everything besides my cpu fans turn on. The graphics card posts just fine, the motherboard obviously turns on fine, but the fans and the aio pump don’t. I’m taken to the bios and I’m seeing my cpu temps are literally skyrocketing and as soon as it hits 100°c my computer shuts off obviously. I take the old psu with all of its old cables and switch it in and everything turns on just fine. I’ve tried using both of the cpu cables that came with the new psu and neither work. I have no idea what I’m doing wrong. It’s probably the smallest thing but the fact I’m plugging in everything correctly in the old psu and my computer turning on is confusing me as to what I could possibly be doing wrong with this new psu. I have an asus tuf x570 plus wifi motherboard by the way. Thank you
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Living in a region close to the equator it's hard to get decent cooling for my rig. And if I add tasks that maxes out CPU and GPU at the same time, then my room feels like a furnace. With CPU >85C and GPU >65C I am looking for solutions that can cool down my CPU more efficiently. Currently using MSI AIO with 360mm rad. With ambient temperature of 35C+ my idle CPU temp is over 50C. During winters (which seems to have skipped us in Mumbai this year) temps are around 33-40 on idle. Which is good because our winter temps are between 18-28 on average. I'm looking for a solution where I can bring down the CPU temps below 40 at least. Any suggestions? CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X GPU: ASUS ROG Strix 3070Ti OC Mobo: MSI x570 A Pro CPU Cooler: MSI MAG CoreLiquid 360mm Rad Thanks!
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Hello, so I just though about, what if I try to somehow add another fan to the end side of my AK620 CPU cooler, so there is another pull fan. Has anyone tried this before, does it increase any performance and how did you go about doing it? Zip ties or something? For this to work I guess I would have to use 1 to 3 pin extender on the CPU fan pin socket, is this safe?
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I have a 3600x with an asus tuf x570 wi fi mobo and a mattrexx 50 case. Anyways I had a spare never used wraith prism cooler with the stock paste still and used that instead of the wraith spire. Temperatures dropped and it was working pretty good. However I had to get into my computer and change my nvme drive so I had to remove the heatsink and in doing so I used 99% rubbing alcohol to completely clean the thermal paste off of the prism and cpu. I ordered two small 1 gram tubes of kryonaut and just put it on tonight. However the temperatures are higher than they were with the stock paste. I used up the whole tube doing the paste three times. I spread it at first, wiped it off then tried the x method, wiped that off then did the line method. All three times I did this my temps were higher than before. Cinebench r15 would never go above 77 celsius even during five multi core tests in a row. Immediately it jumps to about 83 celsius now. Also my max boost all core clock on everything stock/auto would boost to 4.1 ghz all core prior to this with the fan switch on high now i get 4.03 at best with full speed high setting cpu cooler fan and by the time the benchmark is over I am around 3.97 ghz. I used to get in the 1620's (1629 was the best I ever got) if I had the prism set to high and full speed in bios and even with silent bios and low setting on the prism I'd get between 1595 and 1605 so about 1600 on average. Now I'm getting that with high speed prism and full fan speed and 1550's! when I'm on low prism fan speed and silent fan bios. What am I doing wrong? Could I have gotten a bit of the old stock thermal compound under the lid in the area where the i/o die and chiplet is on the cpu and could that affect the heat? Did I put the paste on wrong? I'm so fed up I just ordered a new wraith prism on ebay to see if that will help and if not then I might just order another 3600x or even just plain 3600. This is crap. Also when I was cleaning the thermal paste off I think I may have had some get inbetween the small gap between the IHS and the top of the cpu. Could some of that thermal paste have gotten onto the IO Die or chiplet and be effecting that? If so is there a way I can remove that without delidding? -
I got a Dell Optiplex 775 from the school for free because they were getting rid of them, and I wanted one. I completely tore down the system including the power supply, CPU, RAM, and the Nvidia GT 8400 gs. I put it back together outside of the case, and upgraded to four sticks of 2GB DDR2 RAM, but the cooling solution was a hard drive mounted fan that blew through a heat spreader, but I couldn't use that method outside of the case. It totally works, and it is the system I am writing this from, but I just have the hard drive fan blowing onto the CPU full blast. I want a better cooling solution, but the mounting holes in the motherboard for a CPU cooler are way off from a standard LGA 775 socket, and I know this is something that dell does, but I want to know if there is a way I could get a better CPU cooler for it without getting a motherboard that costs similar to a modern one, and doesn't even have the four slots of DDR2 that I would need for the RAM. I am hoping to build another system this summer and not have to worry about this vacuum cleaner next to me, so its not that important to me, but it may help someone else. -
so I have a coolermaster hyper 212 on a ryzen 7 3200x I Just ordered another 16gig of ram but I've noticed (after the fact.. stupid I know) that there won't be enough clearance with this fan where it is.. If I just put it to the other side of the cooler it will then be blowing the wrong way right? So what do I do? Order another fan... if so I may go rgb because the computer is going to sit on my desk so I kind of like the idea of it looking pretty. Can I just take the brackets off the side of the fan and put them on any 120mm fan? also... My motherboard has rgb light headers but because it's a cpu fan will the new fan have two wires? one going to the cpu fan header and one to the rgb for control or what? Haven't built a system in 10 years and advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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Before there were compressors in refrigerators they were built using absorption refrigeration ( google it ) that used the heat source itself to drive the cooling. Has anyone done that with computers?
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Ok i'm really new in the world of pc so please be patient with me and i can say dumb things. When I play certain games like CS:GO, Borderlands 2, Borderlands 3, etc.. my pc will go at around 96 degrees celsius maximum which is too high. I was wondering if all my settings here are okay and if there would be a way to prevent my pc from overheating (I don't want to overclock it). Also I know it may be the CPU cooler since it's really crap and I ordered a new one but if it's not the problem.. Do you know what it is?
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Hello all. New to LTT forums and really enjoyed reading them so far and finally decided to sign up! I recently upgraded my gaming rig (built 6 years ago with the help of a friend) and reconfigured cooling and airflow. One of the changes is swapping out the AIO CPU cooler (Corsair H60 2013) with a tower air cooler (Deepcool Gammaxx GT). Another change was the adding back of all case intake fans removed by my friend when the PC was originally built (not sure why he did that) to introduce positive air pressure. (Case after upgrade) After I bought the air cooler I realised that, if I was to put back the intake fan blowing towards the cpu area, I wouldn't be able to install the cpu cooler as is because the intake fan and the cooler fan are in each other's way. I was despaired for positive air pressure (the other 120mm intake fan at the bottom was alrwady conflicting with the graphics card and had to be replaced with two 80mm fans blowing at a different angle) and really didn't want to remove said intake fan, so I took the other route and moved the cooler fan to the other side of the heatsink, essentially changed from a push configuration to a pull configiration. (Stock airflow) Now, I remember I read somewhere that pulling air through heatsink isn't as effective as push due to air pressure on the air-in/pull side being much weaker than pressure on the air-out/push side. Pulling air through heatsink will most likely result in air being sucked from the sides. I was worried, and ended up making a shroud to cover up the sides of the heatsink hopefully to force air to go "through" the heatsink. Stupidly, I forgot to log my tempretures before putting on the shroud, and now, even through tempretures seem normal, I'm wondering if this pull + shroud setup is actually doing good or harm; or maybe I should just give up on the conflicting intake fan and leave the cpu cooler fan as push? Would appreciate some opinions.
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I am building my own custom PC build, but I am not sure what cooling type I should choose, fan cooling or water cooling, can someone please help me with it? Water cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100x Fan cooler: Noctua Premium CPU Cooler
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Yo!, Just built a new rig, its a Fractal Design node 304 build with a 7700k using the corsair h90 watercooling. The h90 got a 140mm fan mount and so did the chassi so it worked perfectly to just add it to the exhaust vent. However the chassi is so small the only way I can see to get in like a MSI seahawk X or evga hybrid (closed watercooled gpu) in there would be to add that radiator in a series to the other radiator using like a 140mm to 120mm bracket like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bgears-Cooling-Fan-Adapter-140mm-Black/dp/B0043GMY1U Would that be an overall just bad idea you think?, as the cpu radiator would only get warm air to cool down, or would I only lose a few degrees, and it might be ok? ./Pintuz PS: not sure if this is a reoccuring topic so I posted it as a new topic, sorry if its discussed somewhere else -
I'm currently building a hackintosh(Don't mind the missing GPU, we already have that sourced) for a content creator and they want their CPU overclocked to the max. We'll be running a i7-6700K with an 212 EVO Air Cooler in the rig, and I don't know how much I can over clock with just an air cooler? I've only done so with liquid cooling, so I have no idea. And the creator has told me they want nothing do with liquid cooling so a H90 or H80 is off the table. Anyone got a clue on how much I can overclock this thing, without switching to much more powerful, expensive, and uglier Noctua NH-D15?
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Hi, Which is best in regards to overclocking or just flat out cooling performance? CPU is 8350. Thinking of trying to push it to 4.5 GHz and see it there is a big difference in FPS, in CS:GO for example, or other low threaded games. Currently using Asus Silent Knight, Do you think I Would need to upgrade? WOULD it be an upgrade?
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Well, I'm building my first gaming PC and a friend of mine is offering me these CPU coolers for the exact same price (also, very cheap), which one should I choose? Now I'm going to buy a Core i3-7100, but I plan to get a Core i7-7700K in the next 1 or 2 years, and the case is a Corsair Carbide SPEC-Alpha. I wanna know what are the main differences between Deepcool Lucifer K2 and V2: http://www.gamerstorm.com/product/CPUAIRCOOLER/2016-03/1287_4930.shtml and http://www.gamerstorm.com/product/CPUAIRCOOLER/2016-03/1287_4929.shtml. Probably I won't be installing these on the i3 rig, since that CPU doesn't need that much cooling, it would be a waste of time. But I do want to buy one now simply because my friend is giving me them so cheap.
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Starting a new build soon using the Silverstone ML08 slimline case. Designing it to be portable, which is why the ML08's included handle will be great but the small case means that there's no room for any case fans. The case does have over-sized vents; But will that, in combination with the Intel stock CPU cooler, be enough to keep my Intel Core i5-3330 at a decent temperature? Or should I spend a few extra dollars on an aftermarket cooler like the Silverstone AR06? (link here) This particular PC will be used to run lighting equipment using a very lightweight application (Q Light Controller +) and on occasion some 3D visualization software (Magic 3D Easy View from Nicolaudie) on Windows 10.
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hello so this is my ram, case, motherboard, and the cpu cooler i wanna get please someone double check for me if its all gunna fit or not (i think it will but need a second opinion) http://nanoxia-world.com/en/products/cases/deep-silence-series/deep-silence-4/219/deep-silence-4-white-secc *CASE* https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B150M-MORTAR.html *MB* https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888 *RAM* https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/46tCmG/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhd14 *future cooler*
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hi there i just wanted to ask, has any body tried using a peltier junction and a radiator to cool a cpu or gpu? if you want to know how a peltier junction works, here's a link to explain. http://www.marlow.com/resources/general-faq/6-how-do-thermoelectric-coolers-tecs-work.html i have heard that peltier junctions can cool very well and i thought it would be cool to use one as a cpu cooler. if linus or any of the members of LMG read this post, maybe consider doing a video on this idea
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So what would the temperatures be if someone used copper pipes or even sliver pipes cause they conduct heat much better just load a few dozen fans and some copper or sliver tubing and away we go with the super cool computer.
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I will buy a GeminII M4, but i don't know if this is better than the Hyper 212 Evo and how much i increase performance of Intel Stock Cooler in this air cooler. And what are the temps of this cpu cooler in load and idle? (Pls dont give me answers like: better buy Air Cooler "X" because is better and more cheap; i know that, but i need a Low profile Cooler).
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Hi guys, I'm planning on making an HTPC build on one of Intel's new Kaby Lake non-K CPUs and I have updated my planned build as according to the responses from my previous post. Updated Parts List: * CPU - Intel i7 7700 * Mobo - Asus Z270i ROG Strix Gaming * CPU Cooler - Noctua L9i * Memory - G.Skill Trident Z 16GB 3200MHz * SSD - Samsung 960 EVO 250GB NVMe SSD * HDD - (2x) WD Black 2.5" 7200RPM * GPU - Asus GTX1070 Founder's Edition * PSU - Corsair SF600 SFX Considering the overall black and silver/grey theme of the build, I would like to ask if I could replace the Noctua L9i's included (pardon my language) shit colored fan, the NF-A9x14 PWM: http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a9x14-pwm.html Fan Specs: * 92x92x14 * Max RPM - 2200 * dB/A - 19.9 * m³/h - 50.5 * mm H20 - 1.64 * 4-pin PWM with the plain grey colored Noctua NF-B9 Redux 1600 PWM: http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-redux/nf-b9-redux-1600-pwm Fan Specs: * 92x92x25 * Max RPM - 1600 * dB/A - 17.6 * m³/h - 64.3 * mm H2O - 1.61 * 4-pin PWM And if possible, I would also like to ask which fan would most likely perform better when it comes to cooling my CPU since I don't know how to translate the Redux's higher airflow (CFM) and lower max RPMs as compared to NF-A9x14's into actual cooling performance. I'm leaning towards using the Redux fan as an alternative purely for aesthetic reasons, but I would still like to know the difference between the fans Thanks in advance, and best regards.
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My build I7 6700k H115i liquid cooler Corsair vengeance ddr4 16gb Asus z170-a mother board Msi 1070 gaming x 8gb And 4 case fans in total I had this build for about 2 weeks it was running fine, I run some gpu stress test first and it never went above 60 c, but then when I ran a full system stress test with Aida 64 my cpu throttled within 10 secs all the way up to 90c from idle temperature of 30c, mean while my gpu still stayed below 60c. Is there something wrong with my liquid coller, or is this normal
