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Hey guys, I want to do some modifications on my aluminium PC case, so I bought a dremel since I know it can cut and make holes without needing more tools while being cheap. As the title say, I'm a total noob and have no experience with a dremel, but I do like a challenge. I watched YouTube videos about dremels, so I think I'll be able to do what I need, but I'm still a freaking noob that didn't used power tools since high school 20 years ago. So... I just want to make sure that I'm not missing anything... This is the case that I have. I knew it wasn't optimised for airflow and stuff would get hotter than my older ATX tower, but I really wanted something small because I was tired of having an ATX tower that were >50% empty space. The thing that I didn't consider is that my GPU is taller than the normal size and thus totally prevent air circulation in the case, causing heat built up. It took me a while to notice it because, I don't game a lot, so my GPU sit mostly idle. I got more fans, but now the poor design of the fan mounts (look at the stupid "abstract design" of the top fan...) make it impossible to have a normal fan noise without an annoying high-pitch whining. To be clear: I don't mind most fan noise, but I can't stand high-pitch whining, it's like nails on a blackboard to me. Sadly, I noticed this problem months after the purchase, so I can't return the case, and anyway, the case looks perfectly like I want (ignoring the top fan ugly design), so I want to keep it and just jerryrig a fix. It might not look pretty up close after the modifications, but it will still look nice sitting on my desk. My goal is to remove those lines on the top fan hole and use a basic fan filter instead and I will probably fully open the back and bottom fan mounts because those lines are way too much restrictive for the airflow and probably don't help the noise. This is the dremel that I got, the LCD display might be a gimmick, but I noticed that it is important to use the correct speed depending what you do and which accessory you use, so since the LCD show the actual rotation speed (36 = 36 000 rpm) it should help a lot. It's supposed to be a 200W motor, so it should be enough (many videos were recommending to avoid cordless dremels because it lacked power). I even bought Dremel branded cutting discs made for cutting metal, just to be sure of the quality (It was only few bucks and I guess Dremel is a good brand since people refer to rotary tools as dremel ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ). I also have protection glasses, gloves and a mask for safety, obviously. So, as I said, I watched few videos (like this one), so I know what to do, the use of tape and how to hold the dremel, finish with filling tools etc. Since the case is all aluminum (1/8" or 3.2mm of thickness) instead of steel, it should be easy to cut as long I don't go too fast and make sure it doesn't melt. But, is there anything else that I might have missed or tips that I should know? --- my post was starting to be too long since I had nothing to do else while waiting for my pizza delivery, so I kept the fluff if you want to read more details and why I bought this case: I was once a PC enthusiast and gamer with a gamer overclocked PC (In the Athlon 64 days, I had a DFI LanParty mobo with UV bling bling), but now I'm a graphic designer who suffer from wrist pain (apparently not carpal tunnel syndrome says my doc everytime I ask him). So gaming is not a priority anymore and I built my new PC last year with that in mind, I wanted something that looks nice, but didn't want to care about overclocking and stuff. That's why I bought a i5 8500 (wasn't able to find a non-F 9400 and I wanted the iGPU since this PC will go in a slim PC case when I'll upgrade to a Ryzen sometime, hence the low profile cooler). I wanted something small because I was tired to have big ATX cases that had more empty and unused space than a bag of chips and I really wanted a mATX board because, I knew that I would require more than 16GB (and I did, I'm now at 32GB) so I opted for a Golden Field M3S which fit perfectly my style (a rebel graphic designer that live in a world dominated by Apple and a sea of rounded aluminium cases). Everything was going smoothly, despite having a case that lack cooling abilities, it did what I wanted: being silent in idle/productivity work. I don't really care about some noise when I game because I exclusively use headphones. However, because of the whole "global situation" right now, I end up playing games way more often that I was before, and since I play open-world / story driven games, I might play for long sessions. But despite never getting any thermal throttling so far, my PC does get freakingly hot - it's an aluminium case, so it literally get hot to the touch - when I game and I worry about shorting the life of my components due to the heat and with summer coming around, I might finally get some thermal throttling. I've bought more fans and changed the PWM curves, but the noise now hit a very annoying whining because of the way the case fan mounts are designed. So, I told myself that I could learn something different and buy a rotary tool to do some modifications... Edit: my full PC specs are on my profile, I thought that it would show on the side...

Hey everyone, I saw Linus's video of him upgrading his home theater pc and notice that Cerberus claims to be the world's smallest microATX case- which inspired me to create an account and show off my rare SFF case from the mid 2000's. Here my Vinster M@X: 11.5x5.5x11.5 inches of pure glory I cut out the window on the side of the case myself, normally that isn't there, but its an amazing exhaust hole for my 2060 super. Answering any questions I can,

I’m currently converting a Powermac G5 to ATX. Because of the curve on the top and bottom of the case, I’m having trouble fitting an ATX PSU. I need to be able to access the power switch and plug on the back of the case. Last night, I thought, “server PSUs are slim, one of those might fit well”. After looking on Ebay, I found out that server PSUs are cheaper, higher efficiency and higher wattage. I also found some breakout boards online which I think would make it plug-and-play Here are my questions though; 1. Will this function basically the same as an ATX desktop PSU? 2. Is there a higher risk of damaging my components? 3. Could this burn my house down? 4. Does it have the right plugs for my build? I need these: a. 1x 24pin or 20 + 4pin b. 4pin c. 2x 8 pin (or 1x 8 pin and 2x 6pin) d. ≥3x SATA Power 5. Which Server PSU and/or Breakout Board should I get? (I need at least 600W, I'm not looking to spend more than $60 and I'll only buy a NEW PSU) 6. Is there a better way? Is there a cheaper way? Thanks for reading my rant! Aidan

I have an old dell optiplex 360 I am currently looking for a vertical GPU mount mod that will work on the case for using semi full size gpus I want to move my current system into the case with minimal use of a saw and other not too fun to use by hand tools to mod this so anything helps im getting a new rtx 2060 oc soon it's a dual fan design so it'll fit just gotta find the right adapter thank you very much in advance

Hey guys, so my current project is to 3d print a small form factor case. The goal of this project is to have a slim, open design that will not only be portable, but also aestheticaly pleasing and with good cooling. Here is the concept designed in blender. This is before mounting holes have been added. Also, my school's 3d printer only prints in 1 color and has a size of 210 x 210 x 250, so it will need to be split up. Parts I will be using will be from my current PC. - i5 8400 w/ noctua nh l9i - gigabyte rtx 3060 mini - ROG strix b360 - i (bought because of wifi and built in backplate) - 2 x 8gb corsair vengeance RGB Pro - 1tb wd blue ssd For the power supply I will be using an HD Plex 400w laptop adapter attatched to the back of the case.cables will be managed between the two panels (about 3cm of space.) i will be pairing this with a dell 330 w power brick.

I think this is the right place rather than the “future build section” since I haven’t started on this. So I want to mod my case for extra cooling because I feel like my gpu gets hotter than I’m comfortable with. So I’ll start with my overall specs of the components in case there’s something on the components that you guys would recommend first Ryzen 5 2600x MSI gaming plus MoBo 16gb Corsair vengeance 3000mhz XFX RX 580 samsung 1tb 860 qvo ssd corsair cx550m psu cooler master q300l case Cooler master 120mm fan on the rear that came with the case 2 Noctua redux 1700rpm intake fans on the front I’ve read a lot of places saying the rx580 runs hot so I’ve recently replaced the subpar paste on the gpu with some Noctua paste and that knocked my peak temp down 5c but it still gets over 80c and my goal is to get it under that now I’ve come to the realization through some research that despite all the holes in the q300l, airflow still suffers in this case due to the size of those holes. so my plan so far is to drill each of the holes in front of the fans to be bigger to allow more airflow in the front of the case, and then to drill the same holes on the top of the case so that if I add fans up there I don’t have to do it again and also to aid in heat that’s trying to escape through the top. so my question is does anyone have any ideas about other ways to add airflow through the case to keep my gpu cooler? im considering drilling holes in the acrylic panel near the gpu but I’m not sure if unfiltered holes right there will cause a lot of extra dust build up and I added a pic of how it’s currently set up

Hello. I have a Phanteks p300 case which has an RGB controller(for 4 pins) built into the case with a button that cycles through various colours and patterns. I have a generic RGB LED strip with 4 pins too. It has similar colors and patterns too . It connects easily and lights up too .But the case lights(power switch ,etc which the controller controls) and RGB strip lights are different . How do I sync them?? I understand there's a similar thread but that was about connection and not the controlling. Thanks in advance.

Hey folks, New PC builder here, I have a gigabyte z390 gaming x mobo, in an NZXT H510 case, I was hoping to use the usb c, 3.1, front header, but my motherboard doesn't have a header for the usb 3.1. can I replace it with a thunderbolt 3? Is that something that I can plug into the thb_c header on this mobo, or am I in a pipe dream Thanks

There's a lot of guides on how to built decent gaming PC's using decommissioned Dell office PC's, but most of them reuse the ugly stock case instead of a standard modern PC case. We've been working on an adapter kit that's finally available that allows you to connect the front panel I/O to the proprietary front panel header on some of the Dell Optiplex motherboards (390, 3010, & 3020 currently). The 5/6 pin power button header adapter will work with most Dell Optiplex, Inspiron, and Vostro desktop motherboards with the 5/6 pin power button header but it alone won't remove the annoying front panel error. This project was designed for the mid tower (not SFF or small form factor) desktops. It allows you to connect standard PC case front panel headers to the Dell Optiplex 390, 3010, and 3020 motherboards (790, 7010, & 7020 models are currently not compatible since they use a different connector, however the power button header is the same). You can get these desktops for around $100 or less with 8GB of RAM and an i5-4590/4570 on eBay, just add an SSD, GPU, and PSU and you're all set. WARNING! Connecting these adapters in the wrong orientation or with the wrong models could result in damage to your motherboard. Do not use these adapters with models other than the ones mentioned above except for the power button adapter. By the way, everything is open source so you can get schematics and more info on my Github here: https://github.com/HarbinRepairs/Dell-Optiplex-MB-Header-Adapters Thanks for checking out this project!

I already have the case what parts should i use to make this work, i am new to this

As many of you probably know by now, I've been slowly chipping away at my first real case mod. This project has been in the works for almost a year; I got the PowerMac G5 in April of 2018 and decided after spending hours troubleshooting it, that I wanted to modify it to fit ATX hardware in August of that year. Thus the research phase began. If you go on Google and look up "powermac g5 mod", odds are I've read and watched every build log on the first page and a half of results. This phase continued for a few months while I planned how I wanted to do the mod. I also talked with people who have done mods like this before, aka @DrMacintosh. The next step was deciding on parts to use. I decided on the X99 platform as the base for this mod. I had been spending some time with the lovely people in the X58 Xeon/i7 Discussion Thread, which fed me a lot of information about Intel's HEDT platform and how it had been aging. X58 is 10 years old at this point however, and I don't really want something that old in my new gaming PC and workstation. So I popped over to the used market and started looking at X99 prices, since I knew it was still modern and the CPUs perform pretty well by today's standards. Over the summer and fall of 2018, I went about gutting the G5 case entirely. By this time I knew how I wanted to modify it and most of what I'd need to fit an ATX motherboard in. Apologies for lack of pictures, there were technical difficulties and I ended up losing all my documentation of most of the project . Hope y'all like to read, this isn't a very image-heavy thread. A couple years ago, I got an Athlon MP system from a church friend who was looking to rid of some of their old computers. That's not as important to my story as the case that system came in is. The Athlon MPs were housed in a Lian Li PC-61: This case is important to this project due to its motherboard tray and back panel. The PowerMac G5 is extremely proprietary, and won't house an ATX motherboard with all 7-8 expansion slots without some fairly extensive modding. The PC-61's motherboard tray and back panel slide out with the removal of 4 thumbscrews on the back, leaving you with something like this: I knew when I saw it that this was how I could mount an ATX motherboard in the G5. So I took some power tools to the G5, cut out a big hole in the back(it's not pretty due to the tool I was using, but it's functional), cut down the back panel just a little bit, sanded everything down, JB welded it in place, and boom! ATX motherboard support! However, my journey was nowhere near complete. I still had to figure out mounting for my power supply, hard drives and SSDs, and still source parts. Back to research, it was. Not much was helpful this time around, most people reused the G5's drive cage. Not an option for me, that cage was brutally ripped out of the case with most of everything else. Keep looking. By the time I reached this point, through a chain of events, I had started and stopped working for @CUDAcores89. Long story short, I got his X99 rig as payment. Housed in a Fractal Design Define R5. With removable drive cages. The stars had aligned perfectly, or something. I tore the hardware out of the case as soon as I got it home so I could do some test fits. I found places for the drive cage and the power supply, and started ordering various parts from Amazon and eventually Ebay to finish the project. By this point, the date was roughly 2 weeks ago if my memory serves my correctly. pakidges started arriving, and my hard drive cage was JB welded into the G5 case. Featured in this picture are also my Crucial MX500 SSD and WD Blue HDD. Again, not exactly pretty, but functional. This was my first time using JB Weld, give me a break. Gosh. "But Crunchy, what did you order from Ebay?" I'm glad you asked! My GeForce GTX 780 has served me well for sure over the year and a half I've had it, but I thought it was time to move on to something better. That something arrived today, taking the form of an EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC: I know the lighting and quality is bad. Bleh. This was to be my crown jewel of the build(in a manner of speaking). I started doing tests(had to figure out some technical difficulties, thakns to @Stefan Payne for attempting to help me through them). Everything fit together nicely, and cable management was surprisingly decent. How is the power supply secured, you ask? Industrial strength Velcro. I didn't want to fabricate a mount for it. It's been holding up pretty well. Is that Lego between the power supply and CPU heatsink? Yes. Why the heck did you put Lego there? There's only half a centimeter of space between the GPU PCB and heatsink, the Lego is there to make sure the PCB stays off the heatsink so it doesn't kill itself. FINAL THOUGHTS: This was a fun project overall. I can't wait to do it again in 10 years with a Mac Pro 2019 and a G5. FUTURE PLANS: I'll want to wire up the front panel power button at the very least. If I could get some intake fans mounted as well, that would be nice too. I may cut a bigger hole in the back so I can mount a 120mm exhaust fan. Eventually, I'll have to find some way to upgrade storage. SPECIFICATIONS: Intel Core i7-5820K 16GB(4x4GB) mixed DDR4-2400 memory Gigabyte GA-X99-SLI motherboard Phanteks TC14PE CPU cooler EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC Corsair RM1000x WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD Crucial MX500 250GB SSD Modded PowerMac G5 case Thus concludeth the case mod build log. If I dig up any other pictures that are noteworthy or act on any of my plans for the future of this system, I'll post them in this thread. Thanks for reading this far, I hope you liked it. ~Crunchy

Hey all! Got another "quick", sponsored project for you all. First off, a huge shout out to all the sponsors, EVGA, Bitspower and TeamGroup Inc.! And of course, a very HUGE shout out to EVGA and their Gear Up with EVGA program for the continuous support! And this project will be a special one because I have finally got my own logo that I have been wanting for quite some time now. I wanted something simple that I could use for designs and cutouts for future projects. Came up with this design. And then asked a friend of mine to put in some touches on it. Since I mainly use Aluminum and Acrylic plastics, I asked him to throw those in, and this is what we came up. And now that that's out of the way, Let's start, shall we? Recently, Bitspower reached out and asked if I wanted to do a project for them using their new TouchAqua Sedna 011 for the Lian Li 011 Dynamic computer case. I have not worked with them for quite a while and since the person who reached out and requested is a very good friend of mine, I immediately took that opportunity that he laid in the table. After receiving the packages, I immediately strip the case down. My plan was to do a quick custom paint job on this project since the Lian Li 011 Dynamic is one hell of an awesome computer case. There's really not much, if nothing, to mod on this case. And this case, by far, is my favorite computer case that I have worked on. After a quick look, some measuring here and there, I started to tear the front, brushed aluminum part of it. I recently found a guy who accepts small custom paint jobs locally, and I immediately contacted him to ask if he can take on a small project. He agreed and I wasted no time and strip the case of it's parts. At the time that I got the packages, I have been waiting for a pc game to come out. Anthem. I only played it once, for a couple of hours, flying around and exploring the open world. I got inspired to do a case mod base on the "Interceptor" javelin class of the game. So I started to draw up a sketch of what I wanted. Came up with a simple one. And when I came up with this, I didn't have any clue that the game is starting to "flop". Sent those over to the paint guy, a couple of changes, just minor ones, and after a week, he came back with this. It was not as perfect as what I was expecting, but this was A LOT far better than what I can produce using aerosol paint. All in all, I am happy with the result! And since the paint job was done quickly, well, I started to put the thing together. I've got to say, Z390 FTW is A LOT sexier in person! One hell of a beefy heatsink!! EVGA's waterblocks for their 2080Ti are one of the sexiest that I have seen in a while. With a beefy card like this and a monster board like the Z390 FTW, adding in a 1000w power supply is not a bad idea. EVGA sent over a set of their sleeved cables for the SuperNova 1000G+ power supply. For the CPU water block, I like how it looks, but I was trying to reduce the "dark" colors on the build since the Interceptor character has mostly white and green armor. So I ended up peeling the black top cover of the water block. One of my favorite parts of this project. For quite some time now, I have been wanting to explore the world of custom "distribution plates", unfortunately time didn't allow me to. But seeing this TouchAqua distribution plate in person inspired to go and explore how to make your own plate. I will definitely make one in the near future. TeamGroup was awesome and generous enough to send these out for the project. Assembly time! Now, when I was putting this together, I overlooked one thing. After installing the card, I was planning on the tube route, when I noticed something. I did not realized that the FTW waterblock was too "wide" when using it horizontally. The stock cooler fits in no problem, but since the EVGA FTW waterblock is one hell of a beefy block, the thing was poking out. At that time, it was poking out by around 5-6mm and when I realized it, all I could think of is make a acrylic side panel and make a 7mm spacer between the case and the side panel. But here's the awesome part, EVGA then said "nah, nah, nah, looks like you need a different card that will fit inside that thing. Here, the waterblock for this is not as wide as the ftw block.". They then sent this over! I was damn speechless on the awesome support that they showed. 2 days after that, the EVGA 2080Ti XC and the waterblock for it showed up on my door step. That kind of support, is just, well, AWESOME! And if you are reading this, there's another incident that happened, and yet again, I experienced EVGA's awesome support. Keep on reading below. And after that little hiccup, I started running some tubes in the system. I was actually quite excited about it since this was my first time using a distribution plate on a project. And after that, I did a quick leak testing. No leaks! Now, I was about to wrap the project up. All I needed to do was to put in some green dye on the loop. And here was the 2nd problem. After running the loop for an hour or so, I noticed the LED debug indicator on the board kept on cycling through a bunch of codes. I got curious so I plugged in an HDMI cable from the system to a monitor to see if the thing gets into BIOS. Aaaaaand, nope! I tried all the ports on the card, still no display on the monitor. I tried for a day and a half to see what the hell did I do wrong, no luck. So I reached out to EVGA again, we did some more tests upon their instructions, and we confirmed that I got a dead board on my hands. BUT! Here's where EVGA showed their awesomeness again. 2 days after I reached out to them, they've sent me a replacement board! It still kinda sucks that I have to drain and take the loop out, but that was nothing compared to what EVGA have shown. That will be it for me for now. I will post the final photos tomorrow! Ciao!

So I was wondering if they made a distribution plate for the R6 or if there are any that are known to fit in it? Also, I am really annoyed by the full length of the PSU shroud that the R6 has and was wondering if anyone has seen a mod that has it cut back or would it affect the structural integrity of the case.

What is this 3d program called that is all i wish to know (i need it for a 3d print design and it looks easy to use)

So I've been wanting to do a game themed case mod for a while now but I just really haven't found a game that I've liked enough to commit to a case mod for but recently I've really fallen in love with rust and i want to pull the trigger on a case mod but I've been having a really hard time thinking of any mods that would make sense and/or wouldn't look super tacky. So basically I just need some ideas, the case in working with is the cooler master H500P, now I'm open to cutting the case up a little (really just the front and top plastic pannels) and I do have access to a 3D Printer so I can print mods. Just spitball some ideas for me in the comments. Any feedback is appreciated!

So, I've been planning this build since my laptop and PS2 died in 2014. Somewhere on the internet I had seen a build in an old NES and wanted to do the same. The main goal with this build was to spend as little money as possible on as few parts as possible. With my move overseas coming in seven months, this summer was really the last chance I had to get things started. Parts list: Gutted PS2 chassis AsRock j4205-ITX motherboard with embedded Pentium quad core CPU 2x4GB DDR3 memory from my old laptop 120GB SSD from parents' old computer 140W Pico-PSU 40mm case fan which may or may not be used Front panel cables pulled from old random case, hopefully to be soldered to original PS2 power switch Zalman 500W PSU for building and testing system before switching to Pico unit.

Greetings fellow humans. I've got a build coming up in which money isn't really an issue so I want to do something special with the case. Can anyone recommend any 3d modeling software that is user friendly which I can use to draft up some ideas for cases, or side panels? Ideally that outputs files and data which can be used by a business that operates CNC machinery or does engravings etc. I have no prior experience with software like this which is why I'm looking for something not too difficult to use. -Eve

So, I am officially crazy... I bought 26 Powermacs (G5) And I modded them ALL They are now ready for ATX and mATX Mainboards… But why 26? Did I mention I was crazy?! (And they were only sold together…) I modded G5 Cases before – They kind of became my passion. This time I wanted everything to be perfect: - Keep as much of the original design as possible - Cut as less as possible - Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly. I am done now and it is time to share my experiences: It was a rough 6 months from start to finish. The project kept me busy during all of the winter. I worked every weekend on it, till late. I need to apologize… …to my family for occupying their workshop, guest rooms and garages …to my friends for neglecting them during the last months …to the dogs and the cat for waking them up from their afternoon nap every now and then (because of the metalwork-noise). I hope to be able and show everybody that it was worth it - And that someone out there is appreciating the work, as well. Back me up, guys - Spread the love :-) I believe in Apples high quality and the unique design of Sir Jony Ive My mods include a preinstalled power supply (and even watercooling on some) Countless hours of work and high-quality components & tools were used Of course, you can come and have a look if you are near the South of Germany (or the North of Switzerland).

Good evening guys, first time poster here I've been entertaining the idea for a while, but since I'm now moving houses and will have extra space, I'm finally going ahead and building my station into a desk. Did some research, watched some videos (including the LTT ones, was an interesting one). I'm currently at the early "planning" stage of deciding the shape of the desk / placement of components, specifically ventillation. I can always juggle components around, but I'll have to have the round fan holes cut out from the start since I lack the tools to do it myself. I should note I'll be using a CPU AIO, but the GPU will will be aircooled for starters- I might watercool later on, but not in the near future. My current doubt with airflow is, how/how many fans do I use to have enough airflow? (and if possible positive pressure) I was going to go mostly with Riing fans - 2x 14cm at front for intake, possible one extra at the side. 3 at the front would be nice, but that'd make the desk too large. As for exhaust, I was going for 2 fans on the opposite side of the desk from the intake ones; plus the CPU AIO (size undecided yet) I made a little sad drawing as an example; planning to do something fancier on sketchup, but I wanted to hear some opinions first. Intakes are green, exhausts are red, general idea of component placement (subject to change). My questions are: 1)What do you guys think of the balance between intake/exhaust as far as positive/negative pressure goes? It seems exhaust-heavy to me, but I could use 12cm fans as exhaust to balance it out with 14cm intakes perhaps? Just trying to avoid dust as much as possible (plus I have dogs so.... hair.....) 2)The 3rd intake fan at the side. Any opinions on the location? My thought was, it'll blow cold air into the CPU radiator, while also directing hot air from the current going over the gpu, towards the exhausts on the left. Does that make sense, or am I gonna be creating some weird air currents in there? Oh, and the shape of the desk - I really wanted intake fans up front for looks - but at the same time i wanted a platform for mouse/keyboard, as opposed to having them on top of the glass (it'll have glass top naturally). And again, it's not completely proportionate, just a quick draw to ask for an opinion Any advice is very much appreciated, such as suggestions on shape, airflow, or part placement. I need it badly Thanks a lot guys!

So i am looking for a blu ray player that is thinner than the 5.25' standard external bay and it must be shorter than 6.2' length wise, , must be sata, and also it must be motorized. why? for a ps2 pc conversion of course. i want to replace the original hard drive with a blu ray one (i will settle for dvd if no thin blu ray drives exist), however most drives are 5.25 in. and that is simply too big for the ps2. anyone know of a drive like this or know where to look? (other than newegg or amazon ofc)

Hello Guys, i'm new here.. i've been watching LTT youtube for quite some times but decided to join the forum just now i wonder if you have a solution to make a mini display inside a PC case to display stats but without using HDMI i'm running a MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic, Ryzen 1600, GTX 1060 multiple monitor setup so all my HDMI port is pretty much occupied.. so i need another way of connecting the screen to my pc.. i found this thread but the video inside that thread is using an HDMI which unavailable to me.. i've used all ports in my GPU for my monitors and the one in my motherboard cannot be used because Ryzen 1600 does not have iGP.. i've been thinking of the following 1. using a USB-C to HDMI 2. buy a used old GPU to attach to a vacant x16 pcie slot and use the HDMI to the screen 3. Using a wireless display. Do you have any other ideas in how can i add a screen? i'm also considering the budget.. so what do you think will be the cheapest but decent method? regards

Overview Video - https://youtu.be/MEMdz2ulhlI It's a Ryzen 1950x on a Zenith Extreme x399 with two EVGA 1080ti Ftw3 liquidcooled hybrid cards and a third EVGA 1080ti FTW3 with 128 GB Ram in the system and 14+ TB of storage, full parts list here https://pcpartpicker.com/b/CrtgXL I built this PC for algorithmic 3D modeling, rendering, VR development, and machine learning. I started gathering parts in January '18 and at the time these were the best parts available for what I wanted. I plan on picking up one of the PG27UQ monitors or other 4k 144hz monitors about to hit the market. Case Mods I knew I wanted handles to pick the case up from and wheels so I could move it around easily, I used these Caster wheels and Powder Coated Aluminum Handles from McMaster Carr. I wired up illuminated toggle switches to control the second set of fans on the liquid cooled 1080ti's radiators and the two side intake fans and an industrial metal starter button for no good reason. There's a faux carbon fiber tailpipe connected to the bottom of the PC via some kind of metal hose for a gas oven I think, and some real carbon fiber panels against the PSU and HD bays.

I was wondering if someone had already done this and if they could offer some advice. I was thinking about using an old monitor, pulling out the backlight and then essentially gluing the display minus backlight to the tempered glass part of the case. There was a case at CES here that does exactly what I want to do. The monitor I could pull apart is 16:9 at 19 inches. Thanks

Welcome! Thanks for checking out my tribute to Mad Max & his Interceptor build log. This is one of my Bucket list theme PC builds. My mother brought me to the premiere of The Road Warrior movie and I've been fan of this world ever since. This will be a modified desktop PC with liquid cooling. Inspired by visual elements of Max's Interceptor and the Mad Max World. ...and maybe Fury Road. There shall be rust and maybe even a Detonator attached to the PC? (lol). I'll be sharing highlights of it's progression stages, including video clip links as I move along in this thread. I have a basic idea of what PC hardware components will occupy this mad max inspired PC (motherboard, CPU, DDR, GPU, SSD, PSU) The case is an Enermax Equlilence they donated to me last year. If you've followed my past personal builds, I like to find good deals on hardware whenever possible I do plan to fabricate the liquid cooling lines from 361 marine grade stainless tubing. No idea what brand of CPU & GPU water blocks, radiators and fittings I'll use yet. The case is the Enermax Equilence I was given. I apologize in advance if you're expecting me to pose a Mad Max action figure inside the case (haha). The Interceptor's V8 feels more appropriate. The scale Ford engine I'm using is by LIBERTY Classics, http://www.libertyclassics.com/ I've added motorized shaft to spin the supercharger belt, you can watch it here, https://twitter.com/Mnpctech/status/992023385818492928 I've modified the supercharger pulleys with larger plates to keep the belt from rolling off. 90 degree 24 pin motherboard connector, https://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/90-degree-angle-24-pin-atx-connector-for-motherboard-mainboard.html I will be fabricating a new engine scoop to emulate Max's Scott Injector Scoop and painting everything dark grey.

OK so here's the Project summaries and some script idea's to go with it Project Camper: Intro: With summer on the way and plant life in bloom the wild gamer peeks out it it's cave and away from the monitor to gaze at the real world for a time before swiftly returning to it's den, suddenly yanked from it's home and comfort zone of triple monitor setup and beautiful 4K noob pwning to engage in.. SUMMER ACTIVITIES (DUN DUN DUUUUH) with the hot sun and the lack of WIFI your average gamer goes into one of 2 states, 1:a broad sense of adventure and euphoria or 2: a deep sense of dread and anxiety at missing their favorite content, WELL what if I told you you can have it all for a mere, uh eh ummmm OK not that cheap BUT still awesome this is PROJECT CAMPER. (cue intro and adverts.) (I wrote it as close to the typical LTT script as I could) Concept: take a cheap camper and turn it into a mobile high end battle-station with a full 3-4 monitor setup with all the whistles and bell's you can add. Part list: 1.Any tow along camper 2.Bad ass full tower gaming setup 3.as many monitors as you can handle 4.RGB OUT THE A** 5.awesome recliner/non rolling gaming chair 6.signal enhancer for long range internet 7. full sized desk Bonus if possible: deploy-able outdoor VR setup. Budget: cost will be somewhere around 15000$ if you want to buy all new part's but with the stock you got and resources I'd guess around 8000$ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Project Kirby: Intro: we all remember the airflow test we did where we tested out which fan configuration would result in the least dust, but what if we made a computer with NO DUST!? well let's see if it's possible with PROJECT KIRBY, (cue intro and adverts) Concept: take a pc and place it into a near vacuum by forcing air out of it at a constant rate while water cooling it externally, will it run cooler or hotter? (probably hotter but what the hell) Part list: 1. custom hard line water loop 2. a case to be butchered in the process 3. large fan system for external water cooling (perhaps an air conditioner if you want to get crazy) 4. a lot of water sealing tape and epoxy 5. RGB!!! (cause why not) 6.Ear muff's since it's gonna be loud.... Budget: costs will somewhere around 2000$ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To: LTT If you guy's enjoy the concept please send me a direct message before creating either project, I would love to join you in the build and live within driving distance of the studio so if possible let me know if I can join in the project.