Search the Community

I know the wraith prism is a decent cooler for ryzen at stock and pbo, but from benchhmarks it seems that their boost still benefit slightly for going from a prism to something like a 280mm aio. I am more interested in an aircooler because of the price/perormance. Now I know some of the best air coolers are noctua nh-u12a and nh-d15, but they are a bit on the more expensive side. Im planning on selling the wraith prism that i get with my system (I guess 15-20 dollars is possible to salvage?) and im wondering if something like a bequiet dark rock 4 (not pro) or even an arctic freezer 34 duo would be enough of an upgrade for ryzen to see a noticeable difference from the wraith prism? Also, I wanna know if i would go with 3600x which has an even worse stockcooler, where is the line drawn for a significant upgrade? I want pbo to be able to run pretty much as high as possible and if i Have to pay 100 dollars for a cooler, so be it, but if you guys think it's possible with cheaper cooler obviously that would be great!

Something I see a lot of when people build small ITX PC's and cram really high end hardware in them, they only utilise the fan locations the manufacturer put but ignore the possibility of installing smaller fans such as 40mm or 80mm in places the manufacturer only intended as air intakes and outlets.Big issue with small ITX desktop builds is getting the hot air out quick enough which accumulates and heats up every component because of the tight space, as an owner of the Silverstone Raven Ridge RVZ03 I decided to experiment and it turns out, yes its genuinely useful to install tiny fans. Currently I only managed to acquire 3 x 40mm fans and 1 x 80mm for testing purposes.The fans I use are the following.40mm - Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX80mm - AKASA Slimfan AK-FN076 PWM You might have trouble connecting this many fans to PWM connector on your MOAB but using a cable such as FLEXA FP3S or FLEXA FP5S to connect multiple same type fans to one header and power them off eSATA.In my current testing I dropped a 10 degree off my Ryzen 7 1700 which runs at 1.375 volts and 3.9GHz but would easily reach 90 degrees without these fans and now sits at 80 degrees will eventually reach 87 because there just not enough fans to pull out the hot air from the 120mm 3000RPM CPU intake fan spinning at full speed.So while the Raven Ridge RVZ03 can only utilise 3 x 120mm fans it is fully possible to install 4 x 40mm fans which do push air really nicely (No I am not joking its also very quiet at 5000RPM) and there possibility of 3 or 4 x 80mm fans, there some issues with the power cable that might interfere.All you need to fasten these fans with is simple zip ties, I ran two through my fans and connected them on the other end, they are stuck pretty good and you can get them to line up very accurate, if you have an ITX build and want better air cooling, measure and test it out yourself. 19.10.23 EDIT: Added pictures cause I forgot to.

Hello people of the internet! I have a Macbook Pro MD101 (mid 2012, non retina) with 3rd gen i5 processor, 8GB of ram and 120GB SSD. This device has been with me for years. Recently I considered to upgrade to something lighter and more powerful. but currently I don't have any budget for Macbook Pro 2014 and younger. I was thinking about Macbook Air 2017 MQD32 with 5th gen i5 processor, 8GB of ram and 128GB SSD. I use XCode a lot in my Macbook since I developed iOS apps, and also sometimes do graphic design. So, do you think I should upgrade to the Macbook Air 2017 or just simply upgrade my current Macbook Pro 2012 to let's say a 16GB of ram and a bigger SSD? Thanks in advance, everyone. Hope you have a good one!

Please try this out at LTT, would be very interesting to see :) https://youtu.be/6sZMYK9laME

I got a Bitfenix Nova Midi Tower, the one without the glass side panel. I want to increase the air flow in the case to cool down my old and VERY hot rx 480. I got 1 fan in the back and 1 in the front. So its in the front im having air flow problems with. There are very little to no room for the air in the front to get in. So im thinkin about remove a big piece in the front panel, then putting some sort of grid or filter there for both looks and to remove dust. Ive already done a DIY glass panel on it which turned out "ok", but this im a little bit more worried about since i havent been able to find spare parts online, so if i f-this up im screwed, either keep it ugly or get a new case. Im wondering if there are any vidoe on YT videos that are kinda similar that i can watch, or if you can just say some things i should think on before i start.

I was wondering what would be the biggest and best air-cooler that would fit inside the Coolermaster H500P Mesh, don't care about sound but please list the price next to it, but as long as it will fit and i can put it in the case and crank the fan(s) rpm to max. Only limitations are the case and must be compatable with LGA1151 and/or AM4.

Hi, recently I've been thinking of saving money for a macbook air. I kinda gave up on windows laptops, because I really need a thin, light and good looking design made from premium materials for a reasonable price which is pretty hard to find. I have tried MacOS and I found it pretty interesting and fun. It feels like you have something brand new which you have to explore every day. My whole life I have been a windows and android user and I have secretly wanted to try Apple's ecosystem for quite a while now. So for now I am getting just a laptop. Maybe when my s9+ starts to get slow I'll try an Iphone. So I have been wondering is the cheapest macbook air 2018 going to work good for me. I have never had a laptop. My whole life I have used desktop computers and I havent really cared about saving space on my hard drive or ssd, but with only 128gb I am starting to wonder if it's going to be enough. I am going to use the laptop for studying mostly and very light gaming. Something like league of legends ONLY. I have watched reviews showing that it can run the game so that's enough for me. The thing I really want to know is how much time will I be able to use this device for? I am probably not going to change it for quite a while. Maybe like 6 or 7 years, because it's pretty hard to save this much money as a teenager. Mostly I am interested if it will be usable for studying. As I said I am not really familiar with MacOS and I dont really know how much RAM and space do I need for the computer to run normally. So I will be really thankful if someone can help me!

Hello. Im wondering what would be a good Air Cooling solution for a dual socket system running two Xeon e5-2696v3 145W TDP inside a Silverstone Grandia GD07 for 24/7 medium to heavy workloads? Right now i have 2 Cooler Master Seidon ver2 AiO`s, one of them started to sound kind of weird and im a bit concerned that it will leak. The Problem is that the maximum height of the cooler is limited to 138mm. If someone has experience with this i would be thankful for any help.

AIO water coolers seem to be all the rage, but we're here to tell you that big air coolers are where it's at. Probably. Buy a NH-U12A On Amazon: https://geni.us/9xIfzT On Newegg: https://geni.us/oF1ydNC

hi everyone, I purchased an Arctic Freezer 33 esport air cooler to cool my old i7-3930k cpu, installed it and tested. I was pretty disappointed tho, cause the temps under load were not so good at all, the cpu was reaching 80/90 degrees on cinebench and intel burn test, and even throttling a bit towards the end. This temps are worse than the ones with the intel stock cooler, with witch I could at least fiinish both tests without throttling. Then I decided to try another time and did it with the case in a horizontal position... much better results. Cpu temp not going over 70 degrees, and both test ended with no throttling. Could it be that the cooler is not doing enough pressure on the cpu spreader with the case in vertical position?.. are tower cooler supposed to be mounted only in horizontal builds? If this is the case, what possible solution could I adopt... Its very disappointing that a new aftermarket tower cooler (even if cheap) gives me worse temps than the stock one!! thanks ! patrick

Hey, I'm interested in making my PC quieter, and I've narrowed down the noise to the CPU cooler, pictured in the Aerocool qs240 micro atx case (I bought the PC second hand recently, I didn't build it). The CPU is an i5 7500, paired with an MSI GTX 1080 gaming X: which cooler would be best to replace the current one with (looking for as quiet as possible), given that as you can see in the picture, there's not much space for the cooler so a big one will bump up against the ram? An additional question I had is: is the i5 7500 strong enough to be paired with he 1080? I've gamed on it for the two months I've owned it and the performance is great, but if it could be better and I'm held back by bottlenecking I'm interested to know. Cheers! Luke

I have a router above me in my mares flat since my internet was cut off into I can get replacement HFC cable installed and wondering if air time fairness worth turning off or leaving on I am about 15 meters from the router and though floor and 2 walls of 30 cm thick concrete walls I get about 30/30 during the day and middle on the night I can hit 60 mbit down 30 up. Should I leave the setting on or turn off since I am only one using the WiFi connection. Netgear R7000 2.4/5.0 TP-LINK Archer T6E 2.4/5.0 Channels Auto 2.4Ghz Wireless N I get 65% to 82% signal strength.

Hi I want to host a open air cinema this summer. There are going to be around 100 peoples so I need a big screen. The best way is a projector. I don't know a lot about projectors when it comes to admitted light or contrast. I need your help. As of now I plan to use my own Benq W1000 as renting a projector is quit expensive. The cinema will start around 11 pm so the sky should be dark by then, even in July. Will this work with that projector. I used https://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-W1000-projection-calculator-pro.htm to calculate but I don't know all the units and what they stand for. 4m (13feet) screen would be fine for me. Can I do that? Thanks for your answer Janick Spielmann

I am in the market to buy a new case, of which I've narrowed down to NZXT's H500 and Fractal Design's Meshify C. I'd like to ask people who have been using NZXT's H500 regarding airflow and dust. Negative air pressure builds dust in the case. How fast does the dust buildup relative to your other cases experience? Is it an issue I should be worried about? How often do you clean the dust in your system? For reference, I will be running Ryzen 5 2600, with Cryorig H7 and a GTX 1070ti Zotac. Also, white H500 users, have your case experienced any form of yellowing? Thanks!

Hey new to the site and pc building, now looking to upgrade my cpu cooler from the stock one but I am running into clearance issues if not in one way it’s in another max of 167mm y’all ram is 44mm tall. was hoping for possibly a recommendation price isn’t really to much of an issue and not to concerned with aesthetics, performance, quality and reliability are main concerns, was really wanting the Noctua no-d15 se am4 but to y’all if moved fan up to clear ram having difficulties finding one Build specs would be nice and helpful: AMD Ryzen 5 1500X 2 sticks of GSkill Trident Z RGB 8Gb MSI Radeon RX 580 Armor MK2 8G OC Edition MSI B350 PC Mate MoBo All in a Cooler Master MasterCase H500

FYI, I want to do air cooling for my pc build since I really don't want to deal with installing an AIO water cooler and all that jazz. So, is the NH-D15 enough to cool the Core i9-9900k and make sure it won't overheat? ( I checked on pcpartpicker to make sure they were compatible ? )

Hey guys my curent build https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bLDsCb. Im thinking about upgrading my cooling and don't know if i should go for water cooling or a stronger air cooling. I want it as silent as i can get. What do you guys think?

I'm buying cooling fans for my Fractal Design Node 804 today. I've decided on the BioniX line from Arctic. I cannot decide if the static pressure optimized version (P) is better suited for my Node 804 or their case fan variant (F)? Both offer similar CFM (high 60's) The pressure optimized has a 2.62 rating and the case fan variant doesn't publish static pressure measurements. For those who are familiar with the Fractal Node 804, it does have a (very) restrictive front panel and grille slits cut in the top fan positions as well (and 3 filters total). I'm buying 8 fans so I want to be certain. 4 front intake 1 top intake and 1 top exhaust and two rear exhausts. Should they all be pressure optimized versions or mix of the two versions? I am trying to keep the fans all the same for PWM and temperature tuning reasons. This is a split chamber design computer case. Pic one is the pressure optimized BioniX. (With less blades) At bottom is their non-pressure optimized version. (More blades, thinner blades)

I was wondering if I could use a liquid cooled heat-sink and air cooling for the rest of my build? Is this possible? Sorry this is my first build.

Case panels view with PC-stack insideCase Skeleton and Sample Front Plates. ** Green/Red GPU mounting mechanism, ** Blue - SSD mounting bracketsV2B-The Dark Tower designA couple of weeks ago I started a thread to document my experimental mini-ITX builds where the aim was for a completely silent PC with no performance compromise (using high-end components i7-8086k & RTX 2080 Ti).The concept was to use high TDP CPU cooler to cool the GPU in a unique stacked formation/orientation that makes airflow and cooling efficient. Efficiency in airflow greatly reduces the need for high fan speed rpm to keep the components cool while being very quiet.Here's a link to the thread if you want to look at the details in my experiments.https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/mini-itx-build-with-noctua-d15-performance-gaming-pc.9833/From there, you'll get a much better understanding of my motivations plus design choices and considerations.The result is UniQ-1, a 11.2L (7"x7.5"x13") case that not only house the very unique mini-ITX build that is very unorthodox from the norms yet very efficient in the use of space, but also able to support the various conventional builds.Components support:Motherboard: mini-ITXGPU : Up to 300mmSSD/HDD : 1 HDD, or 2 SSD, or 1 HDD & 1 SSDPSU : SFX/SFX-LAir Coolers : As large as Noctua NH-D15, C-14s, Dark Rock Pro, Dark Rock TF, etcsAIO Cooler : 120mm, 140mm, 240mm (maybe)The design:The objective of the design was to use large heatsinks for both GPU and CPU, and later expanded to use AIO's. Because of how efficient these heatsink are at cooling the components, fan speed can be very low ( 30% - 120/140mm fans), and together with an open-air vent enclosure, yields a very silent PC with zero compromise in performance.GPU Mounting bracketsThe GPU is vertically mounted and is facing the motherboard (opposite of convention mounting), using a folded pcie riser cable. I have designed a bracket so that GPU can be mounted vertically and can be shifted vertically and horizontally. This is done because GPU can have different mounting holes and it directly dictates how the GPU heat sink can be stacked or placed with the CPU coolers. The brackets I have here can be pivot left/right via the slider, and screwed straight into the legs of the chassis, it's not shown here but there will be various holes/screwing points to allow for different vertical mounting position of the green plate. The vertical mounting point on the leg is not a slider (for now) to make sure the mounting is sturdy on the vertical junctions.The case allows for easy removal of the side/top panels and front plate. The top plate is especially useful to remove quickly to gain access to the GPU outputs.The temps I'm getting is around 55-60C for CPU & ~55C RTX 2080 Ti (OC'ed) & ~45C GTX 1080 Ti (OC'ed), under full gaming load. This is all done while the fan speed never goes past 40%, making the rig technically silent in operation. More thermal studies will be done with the actual case later. I suspect it could raise the GPU temps by 5-10C.This is my first draft of the case with my intention to allow for better supports with various components and not just the ones that I have tested. I haven't finalized the design of the front plate, but with the current infrastructure of a panel system, all the panels (including the front plate) can be replaced with different design/material.Note that the case was first designed for my unique stacked tower builds, but the sides can be modified with brackets to allow for full AIO supports that can be mounted front, side, or rear. This is for those that want to start out with AIO's that they already own and not want to invest in expensive air coolers such as the Noctua-D15/DarkRockPro4 or Nocuta-C14s/DarkRockTF.My main goal is to design a case for myself but I've got many requests to commercialize this product for public consumption so this is my attempt at designing a case that could be used not only with my design but just about anything that's available out there. My first hope is this case will allow people to join in and hop on my innovation in PC design in contrast to the more conventional (abeit outdated ATX platform).Keep your mind free and never stop challenging the norms!**Please reply to the discussion to help me improve the design that works for the general audience. I will monitor the interest base on activities to decide if I want to pursue a large order from a case manufacturer.Update #1 - Using non-moded GPU & 120mm AIONon-Modded 3-slots GPU & 120mm and 240mm rad AIOs for CPUIt seems there are a lot of interest in using this case with non-modded GPU. Although this is not the case designed purpose, there's no reason it wouldn't work! So I mock up some models and this is one of many ways you can use non-modded parts with this case. I'm going with the extreme and use a 3-slot GPU (real dimensions) in this mock to demonstrate how much room is there to accommodate "normal" components. Given that front, right side, and rear are open air space, you can practically mount the 120/2400mm rad anywhere. This is just one example.Update #2 - Modular T-sandwich layoutT-bracket Addon : For sandwich layoutSomeone mention the word "modular" somewhere in the post yesterday and it got my juice flowing. Here's my take on modulating my case to include a T-backet addon that can me mounted to the base frame of the case to allow for the sandwich layout that made popular by Dan A4 and similar case. This is definitely a deviation away from my original layout, and don't get me wrong, that's still the top priority. Hence this is why I call this an addon or expansion.I believe with a simple addon like this it will allow the case to be very versatile. Not only will it house my original stacked design, but also able to allow for more traditional and modern placement of components for those who don't want to attempt modding their GPUs.THe T-layout is not final, it's just one configuration that I came up with, it can be refined.In the above picture, the case is now laying sideways. the top mounted 120mm fan is use as intake and the C-style (C-14s or Dark Rock Pro TF) will exhaust the air out to the front. I also show how a 120mm AIO can be mounted, this can be used either for the CPU or GPU (kraken G12 or hybrids). The PSU is mounted at the bottom of the case and connector will be extended to the back. 2 SSD can be mounted righ above the PSU directly to the new T-bracket.The "divider" is currently placed this way to house a 110mm tall CPU cooler (the Dark Rock Pro TF is used as an example). And there's still space left over for a full size GPU with a maximum length of 330mm.As for side panels, a few of them can be re-used (maybe 5?) from the original orientation. The old bottom panel will be replaced with the T bracket (in reference to the new design) since it needs cutout for the mobo and gpu mounted back-to-back.I hope this makes sense and this can add another layer to original case design.

Anyone know if the Air has had any keyboard issues like the Pro? Yes, I know that the keyboard is shallow and feels awful but I'd like to know if it is at least usable long-term if needed.

So I've got a 9700K in a SFF build and consistently see multiple individual cores jumping higher than others? Is this normal or I'm I looking at bad thermal paste application? Cooler Noctua NH-L12 with bottom 92mm fan

Hey guys, I was thinking about getting RGB fans for my build, but then I stumbled upon the intake v. exhaust issue. How do I know if an RGB fan is an intake or exhaust, since flipping the fan would just block the lighting. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Okay so i just picked up a ThermalTake from the Thrift Store used. I was going to put it on my current build but idk what kind i have. I tried looking up different ThermalTake CPU Coolers but couldn't find the exact one. Here's a quick video... If anyone can tell me what type of CPU cooler it is or socket, link, etc etc. Anything is helpful.

The MacBook Air has FINALLY been updated for 2018, but is it enough to take on 2018's ultrabooks from Microsoft and Dell? Buy Macbook Air On Amazon: http://geni.us/U5NiK On Newegg: http://geni.us/XvMN