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Tomzuki

Member
  • Content Count

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Tomzuki

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1996-10-17

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Tomzuki

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland
  • Occupation
    Student

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 16GB
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Super Windforce 3X OC 8GB
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define Nano S
  • Storage
    Kingston A2000 500GB SSD & 1TB Seagate HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600 600W 80+ Gold + Phanteks Extension Cable Combo Black/White
  • Display(s)
    BenQ Zowie XL2411P, Dell U2312HM, Samsung T24C300
  • Cooling
    ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO Black/White + ARCTIC BioniX P120/P140 Black/White
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G512 SE (Romer-G Clicky)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G402
  • Sound
    Superlux HD-660
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home
  • Laptop
    Acer Aspire S13

Recent Profile Visitors

573 profile views
  1. By default, below 30% fan speed my GPU fan is toggling on and off as shown below. Once the speed crosses the 30% threshold, it stays constant. Note that this graph is with 100 ms polling period. This behavior is probably my card's fault, not the program's. The maximum fan speed of my card is 3100 RPM, so I guess this behavior is somewhat expected at lower speeds. This wouldn't really be an issue, if the card didn't ramp-up to such a high fan speed that it becomes audible over my otherwise super quiet PC. Interestingly, if I gradually decrease the speed from 30% down to 15% manually, I can achieve a stable fan speed as shown below. At this speed the fans are inaudible. For now, I have set my fan curve so that the fans are completely off before the card hits 50 ‎°C, after which they ramp straight to 30% to skip the unstable speed region. My card idles around 45 ‎°C with the fans off. Since the fans are off, depending on the setting, even around 5% usage (or 25% according to Task Manager???) the GPU eventually creeps up to 65‎ °C, or whatever the temperature threshhold I've set. Then it starts toggling on and off again, since the fans cool the card so fast. I would prefer for the GPU temperature to be below 60‎ °C under such low usage. So, I wanted to try set the custom fan curve so that on system startup the fan would start at 30% and lower to 15% after it has reached idle temperature. My issue is the following error message when trying to set the fan curve. This generally makes sense of course, but I just want to try if my theory would work. I know that I could possibly prevent the GPU temperature from creeping up by increasing the speed of my case fans (2x140mm intake, 120mm exhaust), but in my experience they will become audible well before they make a significant impact on the GPU temperature, since the GPU fans themselves are off. Note that I'm focusing on silent operation. If I can have the GPU fans running at 15%, they are inaudible and also manage to keep the GPU temperature stable at previously mentioned loads. I've played around with the fan hysterisis setting, but I didn't experience any difference. Does anyone have a workaround for this warning? Or for that matter, some other solution for this issue. Here's my PC specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Super Windforce 3X OC Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac PSU: Corsair SF600 600W 80+ Gold
  2. I have a mITX board, Asus Z170I Pro Gaming. The GPU and PCI-E power cable are both fully seated.
  3. Yes, it happens no matter the load
  4. Forgot to mention, I'm running on driver version 385.28 and the problem returns even after system restart and reinstalling Afterburner
  5. I was testing Ethereum mining on my GTX 1060 when I noticed some weird behavior under load. Here's a GIF of what I mean: https://i.gyazo.com/53538c88d3a3e8cfd9cc27503d29c240.mp4 (Hardware polling period set to 100 milliseconds on Afterburner). As you can see, the core clock, power and voltage are dropping at regular intervals. Also, the GPU won't accept any overclocks I try to apply, it just reverts back to stock clocks after a second. Basically the only slider that actually does anything is the fan speed. At first I thought it was because of some certain type of load the mining software was doing, but the same thing happens on Unigine Heaven. This only happens under load, at idle everything is stable. I checked ASUS AI Suite for system voltages and the 12V seems fine. At the moment I have no idea what's causing this issue. It's as if the GPU is hitting some limit and throttling down, but according to Afterburner the only limit it's hitting is the voltage limit and that's when everything is stable. Any help is welcome at this point, thank you in advance. EDIT: Forgot to mention I'm running driver version 385.28. I've tried restarting my PC multiple times, reinstalling Afterburner and running my CPU on stock clocks as well but the problem remains. System: i5 6600K 4.6 GHz Asus Z170I Pro Gaming 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 Asus GTX 1060 6GB DUAL Cooler Master G750M
  6. Currently have a Das Keyboard Model S Professional with Brown Cherry MX switches, a Logitech G402 mouse and QPAD QH-85 headphones. Would be nice to have a secondary setup, because I'm moving to my own apartment soon
  7. Currently running 2 GTX 660's in SLI. They are still decent for 1080p gaming, but my PC is really needing an upgrade by now
  8. Seems like an awesome projector, easy to install and doesn't take much space at all
  9. Yeah I was kind of expecting that if someone was making those cables, it would only be for case manufacturers who need a 1000 of them I guess it can't be that hard to solder a cable like that yourself. We'll see if I end up needing one at some point Thanks for helping!
  10. Just out of curiosity, I'm asking if some of you may know what would be needed for this kind of cable. The idea would be to have a male C14 type panel plug on one end and on the other a standard female C13 plug or possibly a right angle one. For example, the Fractal Design Node 202 has this type of pass-through cable to allow for a more space efficient PSU mounting location. Male C14 Panel Plug My guess is that this type of cable would have to be custom made, but I remember seeing this in quite a few SFF cases and maybe in some scratch built cases aswell. So is it possible that someone has these premade somewhere? I've been trying to find one with no results.
  11. Glad to see you here! I kind of figured the WE would outperform the PE, but do you have any results listed anywhere or can you roughly tell how big of a gap there is between these radiators. And for that matter, is the performance closer to a triple 120mm or a triple 140mm radiator? Also I bet the FM181 is a better fan, but is it really worth the extra price and in my case, no pun intended, the included fan controller will be useless. Yeah forgot to mention that, installing a 32mm thick fan would require some special length screws with the radiator.
  12. Yeah I'm aware of the EK 180mm fan, which is produced by Gelid or something. However, if I were to use a 180mm fan it would be the Silverstone AP181, like I mentioned in my original post. I'm guessing you are talking about the Noctua NF-F12, but if I were to use a 120mm fan, it would be from the EK-Vardar series, which perform almost as good as the NF-F12, but look a lot better. Comparing the options I have mentioned: Silverstone AP181: @600 RPM: 65 CFM, 0.9 mm H2O, 17 dB @900 RPM: 100 CFM, 1.6 mm H2O, 25 dB @1200 RPM: 130 CFM, 2.45 mm H2O, 34 dB EK-Vardar 1150 RPM and 1450 RPM versions: @1150 RPM: 40 CFM, 0.92 mm H2O, 23.7 dB @1450 RPM: 52 CFM, 1.42 mm H2O, 25.6 dB I highlighted the RPM's at which I would most likely run the fans at, theoretically. But trust me, I've been looking at all those numbers for a while and they don't really mean anything until they are proven with some tests . And my main focus in this topic are the radiators, not so much the fans I would be using, all though they matter as well.
  13. I see there being 2 ways of going with this: Either you go the DIY route or the off-the-shelf solution. DIY solution being, taking a good static pressure fan and painting it the color you want. For example doing what Snef did in his Gold Wings project to the EK-Waterblocks Vardar fans. For the off-the-shelf solution, I would choose Corsair's SP series fan, with the red outer ring The DIY solution might bring you better results, but you are going to have to do some work for it. But there's always the extra flair you get with DIY
  14. I've been looking at possible water cooling radiator configurations for a custom case I've been planning. I came across these Coolstream WE series of radiators by EK-Waterblocks, designed for 180mm fans. When comparing the 3x120mm PE radiator to the 2x180 WE radiator, I noticed that they are extremely similar according to their specifications. See for yourself: 3x120mm PE radiator: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple 2x180mm WE radiator: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-coolstream-we-360-dual Their dimensions are almost identical, apart from the width of course, and they have the same split fin density of 19 FPI. Also, including the fans, they are similar price-wise as well, with the 180mm configuration being slightly cheaper. So this got me thinking, how would these two radiators compare against each other performance-wise. On the one hand, there is a wide variety of 120mm fans optimized for static pressure, EK's Vardar series for example, where as there isn't that many 180mm fans to choose from, Silverstone's AP181 looking like the best choice IMO. On the other hand, the 2x180mm radiator has a bit more surface area due to it's width and also the 180mm fans have higher CFM on lower RPM's compared to the 120mm fans, while apparently making a lower pitch humming noise. 180mm radiators are extremely rare compared to 120mm radiators, since Silverstone is pretty much the only case manufacturer that supports them. But, what if someone were to make, oh I don't know, a custom case that supports 180mm radiators, which version of the 360mm radiator would be the smarter choice? I'm asking you, the oh-so-helpful LTT community, because I would actually want to see some real world performance comparisons. Thank you in advance
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