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About Gmac

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  • Birthday 1990-02-14

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  1. I would add something to keep algae from growing inside your loop. What you have linked will work more then fine. I personally use a silver kill coil.And no it wont change the color in your loop. Only use 1 or 2 drops.
  2. I am glad ghost got you. But ya Mayhem makes awesome coolants. I plan to try them one day.
  3. Sorry for my slow response. So here is what i understand about this nickel and silver debate. Company's such as Koolence and EK both state in their polices that you should not mix silver and nickel in a loop. Likewise both of these companies have had problems and sometimes still do about the nickel on their blocks flaking. There is all kinds of anecdotal evidence about peoples running loops for years with these two mixed and not having a problem. People saying that after six months there whole system is blogged up and ruined. However the problem with anecdotal evidence is that it is not evidence. So from what i understand you shouldn't have a problem from have a small amount of silver mixed with nickel. I am unaware of any reaction that will happen between these two. What i do think happens is some companies are known for making blocks that are not of the highest quality control. And that some block will have problems no matter what. So with all that being said it is in my opinion that if you own a block from a manufacturer that clearly states in their policy not to mix silver and nickel. Such as Koolence. Dont do it. For the sole reason that if something does happen they will not support or replace anything that has had silver running in it. But should you be worried to put a small piece of silver in a loop? No.
  4. I am done with my cross country move. Sorry for my lack of work and answering of questions but i should have everything up to date in a few days.
  5. Surface area is king. Pure and simple. You can use the volume equation (LxWxH) to approximate the surface area of any given radiator. Dont forget to factor in FPI. Thin Rads tend to have a higher FPI and the opposite is true or thick ones. This is all kind of a moot point however. For most people a good compromise between noise and performance is king. If this is you choice the largest rad that will fit with a medium to thin thickness. Par it with some high quality fans running at a low rpm. If you want the best possible performance get the largest, thickest highest, biggest FPI possible. Crank the fan RPMs as high as possible. Do the opposite if you want the quietest set up possible. TL;DR Pick something in the medium to thin side. If you need more cooling potential add another rad later.
  6. Gotta agree. Thinker rad with a good SP optimized fans.
  7. Nothing will ever top the 10 hour Linus Arm Flail. I lost it at 7:32:12 mark.
  8. Cool when the edit function is working again ill add it.
  9. H110. It is a double 140mm. The H100 is a double 120mm.
  10. The one advantage from buying a kit is that you get a lot of the smaller parts for free. More of less at least. If you add up all the large parts like pump, block, rad, ect. It will pretty much be the same as if you were just to buy them separately. When you buy a kit the fittings, tubing, often a kill coil is free. Well kind of free. In less confusing way. It is slightly less expensive to buy a kit. It wont brake the bank to do it your self however.
  11. With the Corsair and the Kraken you will get performance very close to a high quality air cooling. I think in part why they are so popular these days is because it is considered cool to have a water cooling system. These are very affordable and very easy to use compared to a custom loop. The to XSPC kits will give you about the same idle temps as one of the closed system but your load temps will be fantastic. Under a modest OC you can expect temps in the 40-50 range depending on your ambient temps. Possibly even lower depending on your setup as a whole. I think it is pretty safe to say that with a good water cooling set up you will hit a voltage cap on your CPU long before you will hit a temperature cap. You should know that when it comes to cooling just a CPU that the RX 240 and the EX 420 will give you about the same performance. You really shouldnt expect to see any real load temperature difference. However what the 420 will allow you to do is upgrade and add just about any blocks you want into a loop. A Rad like that will give you enough head room to cool a CPU, a couple of GPUs and a mobo or mosfets or something along those lines. A D5 pump is one that will never need to replaced as long as it stay in good operating condition. If you are really interested in doing water cooling. Save your money, plan very far ahead, and do it right the first time.