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So I'm not sure what custom image you're talking about, why not just use the standard Kali image on their downloads page those are ISO.

There is no best, Personally I use deluge, I only use it to download then close it. Just download all 3 and figure out which one is the best for you. Most torrent programs are simple after setup, unless you're looking for something specific. There is never a "Best" when it comes down to opinion. as long as it doesn't have built in ads you're probably fine with any.

Just because it's out of warranty doesn't mean it's gonna just up and die. I used a PSU for 10 years, the only reason I upgraded it was because I was drawing too much power now, and I plan to use it in separate build in a few months. Why not be smarter with your money and keep saving so you have more than $50 to spend on something way better than what you could end up getting now.

Is your pc not working? If it is functioning now, then don't bother, you're not gonna get anything worthwhile for 50$

Neither, save the 50$ for a more worthwhile upgrade.

DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI cables/adapters exist if you want to keep the monitor. This will be your cheapest option, just make sure it is Dual-Link DVI, otherwise the bandwidth won't be high enough. The easiest option would be to just grab a new monitor with DP, This would be a lot more expensive though.

I went a grabbed a few readings from reviews and averaged them, sitting at 390W under load with just the CPU&GPU. If it was more than it could handle then it would just shut off unless that OCP(Over current protection) is the dangerous part then you'd just fry something potentially. If you HAVE the PSU already, and it's working fine. stop psyching yourself out and just enjoy your PC don't look for problems that might not even exist.

a majority of NVMe drives are M-key 2280 which your board supports. Your English is better than some native speakers don't worry about it.

If anything this is probably the biggest reason to change your PSU, especially at bronze, you lose a lot of efficiency especially if you're basically sitting at max load at that point your just throwing away money that you could be using to buy a better PSU just to pay your power bill. You also bought a K sku, might as well beef up the PSU and overclock that sucker.

if you plugged it in after you posted, it wouldn't have detected it, needs to be plugged in before it's even on. Otherwise sometimes tech just misbehaves

"Potentially dangerous, but only in specific situations" You're most likely fine..

You need change boot priority in bios to the USB drive put the drive in, turn the PC on. Enter Bios, Find boot priority Make the USB drive 1st priority

they used socket 771, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_771 . The highest offering at the time was an x5482, the only other option from there is the x5492, and it's only 200MHz faster. DDR2 ECC, 32GB max *64 seems to be supported as well if you can get them it came with a Radeon HD 2600 XT, not sure what it supports though as an upgrade. Honestly if this is for anything ofther than nostalgia however, I'd recommend against using this. 45nm xeons and DDR2 ram. You're mileage might not be that great.

There is no controller on that PCB however, it's just a straight m.2 to pcie passthrough, so as long as the pinout is the same it might be?

I've used it for over a year now....

This is why I like testing with csgo, while you do risk getting a competitive cooldown if it crashes too much, playing competitive always gets me a crash if it is unstable.

Why? I use it on one I got from rockitcool, while it does stain it, it doesn't affect cooling performance.

it doesn't cause un-realistic temperatures in my experience usually 3-5c higher than my temps in csgo. That's also why I only run it for 10-20 minutes to get any obvious instability out if the way before moving on. Not particularly. I've been running my 7700k at 1.465v for the past 2ish years and haven't experienced any degradation yet. for the most part your pc will just crash and reboot before any damage is done. In the end it comes down to what you're comfortable with, if a 2 hour stability test is enough to give you confidence in daily driving the OC then that's fine, you might blue screen along the way, but you can always just nudge the voltage up .005 any time you blue screen. The people that test for 24hrs+ are mostly just the types that want to have proof behind their OC claims. If you don't mind some random blue screens on the way to stability you can just get it to a point where it passes a quick stability test and just use it like normal until you bsod and up the voltage ever so slightly until it stops happening. There is no RIGHT way to OC, how ever you want to do it is fine. Everyone is going to tell you something slightly different.

Don't be nervous, it's a lot harder to kill components than you'd think, I've pushed 1.52v(even got an error trying to go higher than my motherboard disagreed to boot) through my 7700k trying to get to 5.3Ghz, but I run daily at 5.125 with 1.465v. As long as you have the cooling and don't set voltages to the red I'd say learn to do it yourself because the auto version might have a voltage higher than you need to be stable. I prefer to do all my testing with gaming, realbench, and aida64. while prime95 and occt show you max heat, in my experience they're too unreal of a workload to bother. I'll usually aim for a quick 10-20 minute aida run to see if it is just plain unstable, if it passes without crashing I'll play some csgo or other games, and if I don't crash while playing I'll run a realbench test while I sleep.

76/30, roughly 2.5GB per file, would probably make a smooth transfer, however I'm assuming since they're from a camera, the sizes differ greatly. There's nothing wrong with your performance, it's transferring from external to external. So they're both external??? a harddrive is a harddrive, if you've connected to it with USB, don't refer to it as an internal drive. nothing seems wrong, file size variance fucks with transfer speeds, especially with external drives. you're operating within norms. If you want faster transfer, keep large and consistent file sizes. Just because it CAN get that high, doesn't mean it's supposed to always be that high.

Types of files will impact this significantly, Large files will have a larger transfer speed, lots of small ones will slow it down considerably. Depending on the size of these files this is why it is slow, transferring a folder with 12 large video files I was transfering at 170MB/s, now with a folder with all sorts of files like, Videos, Pictures, textures, mp3s, models, is ranging from 1-100MB/s.

is the external drive USB 3 though? both ends need to support it.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/14788/hps-omen-x-27-qhd-240hz-freesync2-monitor ? Not sure what development you're talking about, I don't think a "3080Ti" will come out this year or next. 780Ti was 2013, 980Ti was 2015, 1080Ti was 2017, while 2080Ti was in 2018, it was at the end and you could tell they pushed it out before it was actually ready. 7,9,10 the Ti's all came out months after the regular X80. I'd say Q2 2021 for whatever is next. If you have the money and want to, I'd say go for it.(as long as you're building a whole system and not keeping the 2500k, if you are, don't bother you're probably already bottlenecked) TLDR; 3000's probably not till late 2020, or 2021, If you have the $$$ then go for it.

From some slight looking around nothing in depth, but everything I've found has shown these chairs using PU(Polyurethane) not PVC(Polyvinyl chloride). So if you find a brand that uses PVC, link it so I can take a look. Otherwise you're fine. Edit: GTRacing, AmazonBasics, use PVC, seems like the much cheaper ones use PVC over PU.

bios updates is where this happens