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About Vortex88

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  1. I've been using kailh box navy switches for typing, but I've been thinking about building a board with linears as a dedicated gaming keyboard. I've been thinking about getting either the tealios switches or gateron inks. I know you said the inks are a close second to tealios, but what would you say are the differences between the two?
  2. Ok, didn't realize I had to set the DNS that way. I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to networking. It's working on banner ads now, but ads on youtube videos are still making it through. Any idea on how to stop youtube ads?
  3. Ok, I've gone through the posted tutorial twice now, and it is not working. No ads are being blocked at all, and Pi-Hole isn't even detecting the ads that have played in the query log. I've followed the directions step by step, and it is just flat out not working. Is there something I did wrong? I don't understand.
  4. I agree. I just think the $700 boards are a waste of money, especially because they're not much of an improvement over their $300-$400 brethren. If you want some deep dives on motherboards, I would recommend Buildzoid from Actually Hardcore Overclocking and Gamer's Nexus on YouTube. He covers tons of motherboards in depth.
  5. Good luck! And make sure you know where the clear cmos jumper on the motherboard is.
  6. If it's the same model, then it's not really "mixing ram." If this was something to really worry about, then dual channel kits would be inherently risky simply because their are two sticks of ram instead of one.
  7. I personally like Gigabyte's VRM design a lot more. No doublers used at all which will give you cleaner power delivery. Honestly though, I think both the Godlike and the Xtreme are a waste of money. The boards directly beneath them (Aorus Master and Meg Ace) are nearly the same boards for half the price. The Xtreme and Godlike boards might have a slightly better VRM, but it honestly doesn't matter at that point unless you're going to be LN2 overclocking, which they're both probably still overkill for anyway. If it were me, I'd save the money and grab either the Gigabyte Aorus Master or Asus Crosshair VIII Hero. The lowest I would go would be the AsRock Taichi.
  8. I would just hold onto the 7700K for another year or so. None of the processors on the market right now are going to give you a huge boost for gaming over the 7700K. Not enough of a boost to justify spending the money imo. A 3600K is going to give you around the same performance in gaming as the 7700K, and the only way you're going to see a difference with the 9900K is if you're running an RTX 2080 TI at 1080p anyway. If you have a 2080 TI, then I sincerely hope you're running a higher resolution monitor, in which case, you're not going to see any performance difference at all between the 3600, 7700K, or 9900K. Just keep the 7700K, and see what AMD comes out with next year. If you want more gaming performance now, then buy a GPU.
  9. You might be able to get it running at different settings, but it gets pretty complicated. I just finished memory overclocking on Ryzen and it took me almost a whole week. The best advice I could give if you're going to go that route is to download Thaiphoon Burner to find out what die type your memory is (Samsung B-Die, Micron E-Die, etc.). Then download DRAM Calculator, punch in your memory information, and then make the changes to the settings it churns out for you. That was the most helpful for me. I had a 3866mhz 18-19-19-39 kit that I down clocked to 3733mhz 15-16-14-28. I probably wouldn't have been able to get a stable clock going without those two programs. You have your speed and main timings which are pretty easy for the most part. You have to match your memory speed with your infinity fabric. Since it's "double data rate" memory you'd divide the memory speed by 2, which in my case, the infinity fabric ended up being 1867mhz to match the ram. Then you have to worry about sub-timings which is where it really gets difficult. That's where DRAM Calculator really shines. And don't forget about voltages and other power regulation settings. If you're just looking to quickly set XMP settings, it would probably be easier to return that kit and just buy a new one on the QVL list. Otherwise, you're going to have to go down the rabbit hole that is memory overclocking. Although maybe in your case you could just reduce the memory speed or increase the DRAM voltage if you don't want to worry about timings too much. Here's a good post about memory overclocking: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/ahs5a2/demystifying_memory_overclocking_on_ryzen_oc/
  10. You might want to check your motherboard's QVL for compatible RAM. If your model isn't listed there, it may just be that particular kit isn't compatible with your motherboard/cpu combo. Personally, if XMP isn't working, I'd probably return it and get a kit that's listed on the QVL. You should be able to find it on AsRock's website. Just look up your board, click on support, and you should be able to find the compatibility list.
  11. Micron E-Die is good, but I've heard the timings aren't as tight as B-Die.
  12. It matters because a lot of PC games are just ports from console games. If you have similar hardware to what the consoles are going to be built on, then they'll likely run better. Now, I haven't heard anything about the consoles using the 3700X specifically, but you may still see better performance and any AMD CPU in future games just because the CPU architecture is similar.Again though, that's speculation and remains to be seen.
  13. I just put a computer together that will be used primarily for gaming, and I went with a 3700X. If you want to save some money though, the common consensus seems to be that the 3600 is a great value for a gaming processor. I personally just wanted more cores. I don't necessarily need more cores, but I like the idea of having more for the future. The 9700K seems to be the absolute best for gaming right now, but there is some speculation that you may see performance degradation over time due to intel updates designed to minimize or get rid of hardware vulnerabilities like meltdown and specter. It seems we keep hearing more and more about hardware vulnerabilities with Intel, but at the same time you'll probably never run into one. Not to mention, that you may see games start to utilize more and more threads now that AMD has released their 3000 series and now that AMD is going to be designing processors for the consoles. This is all speculation though. For right now, the 9700K is the absolute best for gaming unless you're going with the 9900K. Otherwise, the 3600 is a great gaming CPU, and the 3700X doesn't build on gaming performance very much at all over the 3600. It's possible these dynamics can change over time, but it's definitely not a sure thing. I personally went with the 3700X because I feel like it's a little more future proof, if there ever was such a thing, than the 3600, and it seems like every day that goes by we hear about another Intel hardware vulnerability. Not to mention that I'd rather support AMD right now, because Intel has been resting on its laurels for about a decade, just churning out CPU's with relatively little performance gain over the last generation. Intel just hasn't been innovating, so I'm kind of mad about that. I'd rather give my money to the company that is actually innovating. Again though, that's all personal preference. If you're not getting the 9700K, the CPU that makes the most sense right now would be the 3600. Don't bother wasting your money on the 3600X either. There's virtually no difference between the 3600 and 3600X other than the price and name.
  14. Lol, I was just about to suggest that. I just finished my RAM overclock yesterday, and I definitely had to clear cmos more than once.
  15. Yeah, I'm not sure why people are suggesting cheap ass motherboards for a top tier CPU. Personally, if I had the money to drop on a 3950X, I'd probably grab either a Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master or Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero. For RAM, I'd definitely be at least looking for a 3600mhz CL14 kit. Ideally (and this is what I did for my 3700X), I'd get a 3866mhz kit with the lowest timings possible, under-clock it to either 3800mhz or 3733mhz, and then tighten up the timings and much as I could.