s_k

I also just found, playing just an hour of pubg, that my battery went from 100 to 15%. That's... perhaps even faster than it does WITHOUT the power supply. What's going on?

Well this is annoying! I got a lovely Zephyrus G14. Because I also use a Macbook I bought a nice powerful UGreen USB charger, 140 watts, so I can charge both laptops from the same charger and not have to have an extra (huge) power brick laying around. Now I did find out that my 140 watt charger cannot quiiiiite charge the Zephyrus G14 when playing triple A games. It slowly depletes, but VERY slowly. Not a big issue, as long as I have at least 60% of battery I should be fine for many hours of gaming. The issue is though, that when I end my gaming session and close the lid of my laptop, causing it go into hibernation (not sleep, as that's a major issue on these laptops, they just won't). And as soon as it's in hibernation, it will not charge through USB C. Not even a little bit. So I have to leave my laptop on in order for it to charge, which means I can't store it away. I sort of half assume this is a Windows modern standby feature being annoying, but maybe it's a bios thing? It's really hard to find anything about this, as most people ask the opposite (charging when on) becuase they are using underpowered chargers. HALP!

Any ideas here?

Because it gives me an FPS counter and an easy way to take screenshots, I have no reason to use anything else but if you have suggestions, happy to try :D. Not all of my games are played through Steam, does it also work for the non-steam games? Windows is at 144hz yes

Folks! No matter which game I play, the highest FPS Fraps has shown is 60. My laptop (Ryzen 7 5800, rtx3050Ti) has a 144hz refresh rate screen and should easily surpass 60hz on many of the games I play. It consistently tops out at 60fps. What I found online is that it's because the screen can not do more (definitely not true) and that armoury crate can be the issue (I uninstalled that virus a long time ago :D). Any thoughts?

Yes but it doesn't boot 'to a blank screen'. It boots fine, and the screen turns off after 3 seconds even before it's booted, it turns off no matter what. If you close the lid and reopen it, it works for 3 seconds, but the computer is still booted (because the external screen keeps it on). If the system turns the screen off, because it's idle for long enough, and you move the cursor, it will come back on, and turn off again. Also a complete restore can't be done, as there's no video going to the external screen until I'm on the login screen (I also mention that in the video). There's currently no way of reinstalling it without the screen working, which I think is a pretty nasty oversight on Apple's side :D.

I thought only NVram didn't exist, but Pram doesn't exist either. Well then that was a pointless excercise Can't do this as the screen won't work, no matter what you do it'll only work for a few seconds. The only way to make it come back is to close and open the screen (it briefly works for 2-3 seconds) or to wait long enough for it to go into 'screen off' mode, when you then move the mouse it turns on again, briefly. There is no other way to get the screen going. Also it talks about fixing the 'startup disk', which is clearly not this issue. Did you watch the video? That too is talking about macs that don't boot. This one boots fine and works fine on an external screen, and it even works on the internal screen for a few seconds when you close and open the lid (it's not the flat cable either, it's super consistent and always stays on for the same time, no matter how little or far you open the lid). I appreciate the help but these solutions are not linked to this problem I'm afraid

Yup. There's no way to get the screen to stay on. It weirdly seems like a software error, but completely outside of any of the MacOS software it also exists. The thing doesn't have a bios so I am really lost WHAT tells the screen to turn off. Any of the recovery options just leads to my external screen going blank as well. So it boots into them, but doesn't display it. PRAm doesn't seem to work. I haven't tried it on my own M1 Air yet but isn't it supposed to reboot a second time when you reset it? This one above doesn't. I should probably add; It happened once, then she closed and opened it and it worked for another 10 minutes, and then this started happening and it never fixed itself.

An extremely weird issue with this Macbook Air M1. Not one I can find anything about online. Anyone has any idea?

It did at first, but at some point VHS caught up hard Have you ever had a properly, and I mean properly pro VHS? In my case it was the JVC BR-S611U And holy moly, that's a different league (with VHS, not S-VHS). There was a time when these had zero value, should have bought 10 back then! My favourite cassettes are Type I cassettes. Not the ones they make these days, not TDK D either. But TDK AR-X and AD-X. Also Scotch Master I but those are unusable by now. They are incredibly realistic/organic sounding. Noise levels are low for a ferric tape, but they have a suppleness in the bass response and a completely unobtrusive transparence in the highs that I only heard in one other tape; The Maxell Metal Vertex. And those are so stupidly pricey that I'm happy to use AR-X and AD-X instead. I never heard a chrome tape, or another metal tape, that sounds quite as good overall. Of course there's chrome/metal tapes that have less hiss, or a broader frequency range, but all things considered, those are my favourite cassettes. As for it sounding as good as CD; Better, if you ask me, when it comes to the way they reproduce a source that is higher quality than a CD. They do, of course, add hiss though and if you're sensitive to that, tape is not for you. I personally don't care.

Errors are a defect. Worn head, worn tape, maybe the thing got a beating and lost its tracking, maybe they accidentally adjusted the tracking (as they obviously don't know how to use the machine). Saying tracking errors are part of the format is like saying lost data is part of the format of a magnetic hard drive. Yes, they built the tracking system in there because it's necessary sometimes, but as soon as it doesn't work well enough to keep the tracking right, the machine (or the tape, or the user) are broken. I may have stopped watching at that point, haha. Figured i'd only add more. I'm not defending VHS here. I was more of a beta guy myself, and as someone who literally owned hundreds of reel to reel machines and thousands of tapes, I know what a pain in the ass tapes can be. The problem is that they got the facts completely wrong when they say tape is unreliable compared to LD, as they are both a bit 'hit or miss'. Also indeed, the sharper VHS image is very theoretical, no one wanted to buy these pro machines, I just got lucky, and on an average consumer machine VHS looks way worse than LD. The problem is that that's not the fault of the medium, that's a budgetting matter. The tape, the medium, is so much better than most people ever saw, and they didn't even give it a fair fighting chance. They did talk about HD-LD, but not about HD-VHS, D-VHS or even S-VHS. No fair. As for disc rot and moisture; I'm not sure if that's true as Japanese discs (Pioneer for instance) never ever develop it. It's not JUST user error, that's for sure. Oh every time. He was also saying cassette player (and was saying that cassettes sound horrible, which is also just... not true :D).

This is a painful video to watch with how much wrong information it's providing. Let's go through it. First of all; Laserdisc players are NOT expensive to buy. I'm not sure why you picked the most expensive one, but 2, 300 bucks gets you an upmarket one. Then, at 4:24, quality of the format is confused with the quality of 'the way people perceived it'. If you throw a run of the mill, well produced Disney VHS tape in a VHS recorder, you'll get a sharpness and colour accuracy (at least in PAL ;)) that surpasses DVD with ease. The sharpness itself is better than LD even, but LD wins in sound (especially the analog ones which use FM modulation) and black levels. That most consumers got a mediocre (or worse, more on that later) recorder and mistreated their tapes, doesn't mean the medium couldn't do any better. Then, at 11:50: No, it's not disgustingly analog, it's a disgustingly bad player you are using, that also has tracking errors. As with much misunderstood equipment it comes down to user error (you know, like not knowing that the 'wind' function only works through stop, what you are doing is 'review'. If you press stop first and THEN wind, it actually goes as fas as it can) and badly treated machinery. And then, 13:19; LD's do not hold up well, at all. A properly stored VHS tape will outlive many an LD disc. Google 'disc rot', just that. See how many LD's you see among the CD's? Especially european LD's are notoriously unreliable and literally fall apart, completely unusable. Now, some VHS (and other) tapes have issues with their binder and chemical component, causing them to stick or squeek or fall apart as well, but chances of blindly buying VHS tapes without checking them versus LD, and getting a usable one, are much, much higher even WITH all of the mistreatment. Now let me make it very clear; I love LD. It's a beautiful format that should have never been replaced with DVD. Black levels, colours and sound are insane for their time. But that doesn't change the fact that the comparisons that are made here with VHS, and some of the 'facts' that are mentioned about LD, are just plain incorrect. How hard is it to google something before you say it? :).

I do like reinstalling windows, it's a fun thing to 'get right' so it's not the end of the world. It's just weird, there's nothing left in the apps list, and the search function finds nothing, yet taskmanager shows twelve (!) executables running. I could remove the files of course, and see what happens. Whole thing may not boot anymore, who knows. I'll give it some thought, haha. It runs fine as is but I may get annoyed with it and reinstall windows. I seem to remember that in my previous uninstall of the Asus software the hotkey didn't work anymore, but maybe that was juist the little GUI element it throws up on the screen. Your explanation about the dynamic load does sound logical. Weirdly (and I really can't explain this) playing Skyrim for 2 hours it didn't get anywhere near the temperatures I got first. Completely baffled about that honestly. I did skim through Jarod's video when I researched this laptop, but will give it another look. There's no denying that putting this much power into a laptop is a compromise, I was well aware of that and am happy with how the thing performs for its purpose (gaming). For other stuff well... It's not an M1 mac, if I may be so bold. I thought with Intel/AMD having caught up it may run the Adobe suite as well as the Macs do but nah, optimalisation is a thing there. But for gaming, it's about on par with my 2019 2700x/32g/1660ti gaming system that I am now selling. Not bad, completely happy with that. I did however want to make sure that it didn't get hot to the point where it would start desoldering its own components (remember core2duo era laptops with dedicated graphics?). But it appears that it's working as intended. I barely looked at the specsheet honestly, I mostly just checked reviews, also for the later models in the series, and people seemed generally impressed with the build quality and performance of this machine. It has to be said, it's a 'lenovo T-series' solid laptop. Asus really did a great job with it. Keyboard, screen and sound are not too shabby either. But then it was not exactly cheap when new, so they better!

To test the thermal/heat indeed. The fans sound healthy and get up to very reasonable speeds so I'm not worried about those. I'll give heaven and prime95 a shot now. Temps seem to top out at 87c for the GPU. HWifo reads 88.4. CPU topped out at 95.4. They drop within 10 seconds to 70c. I guess all systems normal? Weirdly, the 'modes' for fan button still works, even though the software is uninstalled. I guess that button also allows the windows performance settings to change? I just checked the processes running and there's still a ton of armoury/asus stuff running even though I uninstalled it. Oh Asus... Any idea how to get rid of that? Happy to reinstall again, but if there's a faster way :D. Going to test furmark just for comparison, it's weird to me that it seems to get hotter in games than in a benchmark that's supposed to crunch the GPU. Furmark too tops out at 87. I think we are cool. Can you tell it's my first gaming laptop? Haha. I'm used to building gaming PC's that don't break sweat, all of my laptops were Dell Latitudes (from the D610 to the 7440). Currently using a Macbook Air M1, so I'm just not used to laptops that are hotter than I can comfortably touch. Thanks for the support! Much appreciated!

Oh it didn't 'come' with my machine. First thing I do when buying a computer is reinstalling it (both to get rid of the crap it comes with, and to partition the hard drive). It was just the latest version on the Asus site. I don't need the software at all so I'm happy without it. I thought it would give me some control over the fan but Windows seems to do that just fine. Is there a benchmark I can run to test this in a more synthetic way?