ClassiCorey

Okie dokie. Unfortunately Samsung doesn't offer any firmware updates for this monitor. I tried to have a tech come in and repair it, but they #1 told me it would cost me $270 to repair, and #2 have refused to get back in touch to schedule a repair. Very frustrating experience. Let's see if I can actually get a return on it... Thank you for your help.

Yeah. I plugged it into my brother's HP desktop, and it seems like it has the same issue.

Hello. I just got a Samsung Odyssey Neo G7 today, but it seems like there's an issue with it that I haven't been able to solve yet. When displaying some content, there are thin bars that rapidly appear and disappear. Sometime's they're just dim, and sometimes they almost look oversaturated. I have attached a video to this post demonstrating what I'm talking about. I have noticed this issue while watching YouTube videos from DougDoug, North of the Border, and Hardware Unboxed. The issue was present in all three. I can also see this issue while playing videogames. I have observed it in Hunt Showdown and Halo Infinite. I have tried toggling each setting in my monitor's OSD, and even fiddling with the Display settings in Windows. It's also worth noting that I've tried five different DP cables, and four different HDMI cables that have been verified to work on other displays without this issue. 20230720_161024.mp4

Hey guys! I haven't done anything with the CMOS settings, but I did get home just now and I plugged the two sticks of RAM back in since it boots up when I removed the two, and it turns out that it runs just fine now. All my system specs are being registered. I have the correct drives, amounts and RAM listed as well as the correct graphics card and specs. Maybe someone a little more hardware inclined can tell me why removing RAM would fix the boot loop. I see. I'm not super hardware savvy, but could taking the 2 sticks of RAM have refreshed something to make it work?

I see. I'm not super hardware savvy, but could taking the 2 sticks of RAM have refreshed something to make it work?

Hello, I had put the gtx 1080 back in to ensure it still worked. But I haven't done anything with CMOS myself. I did, however, unplug two sticks of my RAM, and tried again. With only two in the system it booted up just fine and I'm in the GEFORCE experience app downloading drivers now. I assume that means it's a problem with my PSU not being able to deliver for my full system, then.

Hey there. I just got an RTX 3090 today. I plugged it in, and wired it up. When I press the power button on my computer, the lights will come on, the GEFORCE logo will light up as well as various RGB in my machine. The fans spin up, and then everything shuts off. This happens over and over until I flip the switch on the PSU. It may be worth noting the light on my motherboard remains amber until the system shuts off. Could I be missing something? I'm using the dongle the card came with, and I wired both 8 pin connectors to it plugged directly into the graphics card. I had a GTX 1080 running on this build previously, so my gut reaction tells me that it's the power supply. But NVIDIA recommends a 850 watt supply, so I should be fine with 1k watts, right? PC Specs: Motherboard: ASUS Prime Z390-A PSU: EVGA 1000w GQ 80+Gold Intel Core i9 9900k CPU 4 sticks of 8GB Trident Z RGB (128 GB total) SAMSUNG 970 Evo plus 2TB NVME M.2

I was hoping to get something to improve a wireless connection, but seems like an aux cord is my best bet. Thanks for the advice.

A while back I got a pair of Sony WH-1000X M3's and I've been really into the sound quality. Naturally I've been wondering if I can somehow turn them into my main gaming headset. The only problem being that sometimes the latency on the sound drags a full second behind the visuals. Is there some sort of adapter or dongle I can get to speed up the audio transmission? I'm looking to play mostly on PC, but it would be a cool little bonus to be able to get this working on PS4 and Xbox.