Joealex24

9 hours ago, ShrimpBrime said:

Then you update the bios to 7B79vAF or newer. 

ok thanks

4 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

It is not without risk. 

But you don't have to update to the latest bios. If you are using an older Gen Cpu, there may be no need to update the bios to the most recent. What processor do you have?

i am using the ryzen 5 3600 but anthony said in the 'FREE performance for Ryzen! - 1usmus ClockTuner for Ryzen' video that agesa 1.0.0.4 combo pi was needed to run the clocktuner software

2 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

That bios revision isn't listed at the site and is the factory shipped bios I am to assume. 

If you have not updated the bios, then you want to do so.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/X470-GAMING-PLUS

Make sure your chipset driver is fully up to date before flashing your bios.

there would be the chance of bricking the motherboard wouldn't there?

Anthony said for the ryzen ctr thing your bios needs to be using at least 1.0.0.4 combo pi. I'm using the msi x470 gaming plus max and in the bios it says BIOS Ver: E7B79AMS.H40. Am I all good?

Does a dual monitor arm exist that would look normal with just one monitor in case I want to add another monitor later and still be able to use the same arm for both? 

Just now, bungusboy81 said:

My CPU temps don't go above 65c usually, but I know stock CPU coolers are garbo.

I'm guessing it isn't under full load at 65c but 65c is completely fine

4 minutes ago, bungusboy81 said:

I have a prebuilt I got about a week ago, and it came with 8GB+4GB DDR4 2933 RAM. I'm thinking of upgrading to 2x8GB RAM, but I'm not sure if I need to and I'm not sure how to. I've got some questions about it and I'd appreciate some help. I've never upgraded PC hardware, only gotten new prebuilts, so some tips about that would be helpful too.

So here are my questions:

1. Do I even need 16GB of RAM? I use my computer for gaming, homework, and web browsing.

2. Should I upgrade another part of my PC first before the RAM like the CPU since it's a prebuilt and prebuilts cool CPUs about as well as blowing on them with your mouth?

3. Is there anything I should seriously be careful of? Like some simple "NEVER do X thing" kinda deal? I know about static, but anything else?

4. Do I need a PSU upgrade? It's 380W PSU which I know is very low for my rig, but I have no idea how to upgrade the PSU and I've never dealt with cables in a computer before.

5. Is there anything else I should know before starting my hardware nonsense?

 

Specs:

CPU: i5-10400F

GPU: GTX 1660 SUPER

RAM: 8GB+4GB DDR4 2933Mhz

PSU: 380W, It's 80 plus platinum but I don't know what kind it is. Probably got that sticker from a chinese sweatshop, it's probably a potato with some cables stuck in it. Prebuilt power.

CPU Cooler: Prebuilt CPU cooler. I could fart on this fucker and cool it down more.

 

Thank you in advance, and tell me if there's anything I need to know!

To check if you need more ram run a game and some things in the background to replicate how you would use it normally worst case scenario and check task manager to see how much ram you are using.

It is easy to swap out the 4gb stick. Just buy another 8gb stick of the same frequency and preferably the same manufacturer if you can tell.

If you want to check if the CPU is thermal throttling, download cinebench r20 (it's on the Microsoft store) and hwinfo. Run cinebench and look at the max CPU temp in hwinfo.

Temperatures shouldn't be going above 85-90 c. If they are you may be able to fix this by turning the fan speeds up in the bios or if not an air cooler.

I'm using an old HP prebuilt (hp prodesk 400 g1 sff) to build a nas server. It only has 4gb of ram so I ordered 2x8gb ddr3 @1600 off ebay but it won't boot with either f the sticks in either of the slots and it boots with the original stick in either of the slots. With one of the sticks it continuously beeps 5 times and gives a red light and doesn't boot. With the other stick it still doesn't boot but doesn't go red and only does the beeps once and then the CPU fan ramps up. Could I be doing anything wrong or are the dimms broken and I need to try to get a refund?

1 minute ago, SGT-AMD said:

What is a internet booster?

If you can, go straight to the router via cable

 

A wifi extender plugs into the wall and uses the electricity cables as ethernet cables. You can connect to it via wifi or ethernet

if you have an android phone or tablet you can use the wifi analysis app to check your wifi signal. Best case would be being plugged straight into the router but I'm guessing that's not possible so yeah you might want to get a wifi extender and be wired into that. Or maybe a mesh system if you need better signal throughout your house. With a mesh system, when you connect you will automatically be switched from one disc to another rather than having to go to settings and change your network whenever you move room.

I'm trying to port forward for rocket league using a technicolor router. Do I just put any random number from 1,6000  in lan port or is there a way to find out what it should be?

4 minutes ago, Arrogath said:

Instead of PBO in bios maybe download ryzen master and try the newest version of Ryzen Clock Tuner. It is capable to changing between profiles similar to how the Dark Hero board can, allowing you to swap to an undervolted/optimized all core overclock only during heavy usage to keep your single core boost normal. You could also potentially get your all core overclock close to the 3600's single core boost with some luck with silicon quality

edit: to be clear, CTR is a third party tool that leverages Ryzen Master for an efficient overclock according to your tested silicon quality

Yeah I've heard of that might try at some point. Turned off smart fan mode so they are now constantly at 2000rpm and averaged just over 70c in cinebench r23 peak 75c which I think is good? The fan curve mustn't have been reaching 2000 for some reason.

18 minutes ago, Arrogath said:

Linus does it all the time, I have as well when I'm troubleshooting and have to remove the cooler multiple times. As long as the coverage was good before it should be fine, but since you're have thermal issues you will probably want to try a new fresh mount at some point

29 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

Ok. Did you change anything with the fan curves at all? If not, check and make sure you used enough thermal paste, and reseat the cooler.

thermal paste was spread perfectly across the whole ihs not spilling over the sides

2 minutes ago, Arrogath said:

There's a few things you should check:

The noctua mounting hardware is firmly and correctly installed on the motherboard

 

Look at the processor and cooler cold plate when removing to check coverage, the most fool proof method of paste is a thin layer across the entire IHS

 

Are you using the "noise reducer" in line resistor that noctua occasionally provides? If yes I would recommend you don't, you can always just control fan speed via software

 

Is the fan installed with the proper direction for the airflow of your case, are your case fans set properly to draw and exhaust air?
 

can I remove the cooler to check without having to reapply thermal paste?

1 minute ago, MadAnt250 said:

Did you ramp up the fan speed, I think the fan on the stock cooler may spin faster.

1 minute ago, aisle9 said:

Ok. Did you change anything with the fan curves at all? If not, check and make sure you used enough thermal paste, and reseat the cooler.

I moved the fan curve up after the first test run. Pretty sure its at 100% past 75c or something so like 2000rpm for these fans. If I take the cooler off can I just put it back on or do I have to clean and reapply the thermal paste? I don't want to redo the thermal paste right now but can do in the next day or two (I might get some isopropyl alcohol then as well).

2 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

Did you peel the sticker off of the heatsink base?

there was just a piece of plastic which I took off yeah

Today I installed my new NH-U12A on my R5 3600, replacing the stock cooler. I've gone from idle temps of 38-40c to 33-34c. My cinebench r23 multi core runs went from 9111 points and 92c peak 89-90c average to a 9173, 89 - - and 9148 with peak 89c and average 86c. This doesn't seem like anywhere near the expected performance increase :/. I'm using pbo. Case is meshify c. I did clean the IHS with a microfibre cloth before applying the paste but maybe I didn't apply the paste very well?

Just now, Quackers101 said:

why use G2A at all. throw away those keys.

Why throw away money?

Just now, ragnarok0273 said:

Uh... no?

No it's not ok or no its not bad?

Looking to sell some game keys I have that I'm not going to use so may as well sell them. Thought G2A is probably the best site for that but is it bad that they want your passport details? Maybe it's completely fine but don't know if I should be giving away my data like that.

Hi, I've just started mining with nicehash, realised there can be quite large fees for exchanging or transferring the bitcoin. Please could someone fill me in on the best way of transferring/exchanging/saving bitcoin earned on nicehash. Bit confused by all the different types of wallets and stuff.

57 minutes ago, airborne spoon said:

OR... hear me out DON'T USE NICEHASH!

If you must though... your issue is prob mcafee since it sucks ass  just delete the file and then turn off both mcafee and defender then download it, and unzip it, then install it, should work fine.

 

My soapbox:

Before you do any mining look at all the fees associated with nicehash and see how much it's going to cost you to get your earnings to your own wallet. (its a lot).

If you want to mine look at a mining calculator like coinwarz.com and see what coin is the most profitable for you (usually ETH) then look into mining that specific coin with a program like phoenix miner or something on a site like ethermine.org but always look at fees before you start mining on any site some will cost more and usually it's not worth the extra fees over a different pool.

Thanks for coming to my ted talk  

I realised mcafee was quarantining loads of files everytime there was a problem because you can't just exclude a whole folder in mcafee.

Good point about the fees I didn't think they were that bad because nobody really mentioned them. 

11 minutes ago, streamcap said:

Make sure the antivirus software (Windows Defender if nothing else) hasn't quarantined the installer. As the website says, apparently many antivirus softwares flag the miner as a virus. 

(Kind of makes me wonder how they haven't been able to fix it.)

 

Also make sure you run the installer as admin

(also something Nicehash should have had set beforehand...)

i use mcafee and have excluded it the installer in the real time scanning thing so i dont think that is the problem. I have managed to download the installer, just when i try to run it i get that message. When I go to setting in windows, windows security, virus and threat protection it says MCAFEE virus scan and microsoft defender antivirus periodic scanning isn't ticked so I don't think it is to do with mcafee anti-virus or windows I could be wrong though

4 minutes ago, PorkishPig said:

Are you downloading a Linux build? Windows builds are available at https://github.com/nicehash/NiceHashMiner/releases.

No I was using the top one there 3.0.6.0 

I have downloaded the installer after whitelisting the file in my mcafee virus protection software but when I try and run the installer, it says 'This file does not have an app associated with it for performing this action. Please install an app or, if one is already installed, create an association in the default apps settings page. Anyone know how to solve this?