undercooked spaghetti

I've always wondered if having a third party anti virus software is better than just going on with the built in windows defender. I think being considerate with your browsing on the internet and with windows defender as your AV is plenty. With that being said, do you guys think that third party AVs are better security than windows defender? or if they can be better than windows defender in the use case of new/inexperienced users?

it stutters from 60 to 40 fps, same results on all settings

Hi, I recently bought Elden Ring on PC (steam) and I've been experience a lot of 1% frame drops which feel like the game's stuttering and make the overall experience feel choppy (see attached). I've tried to force V-Sync from Nvidea Control panel but that didn't do anything to improve the situation. Any ideas on how to fix this? My specs are: Ryzen 5 5600X GTX 1070 8gb 16GB Trident Z 3600mhz Thanks.

Thanks a lot, this solved the problem. I looked for oem21.inf in my device manager "sort by driver" and removed the driver from there. Memory integrity is now enabled and working perfectly.

I've managed to locate the driver in device manager. How can I identify which device it is connected to?

Thanks, I'll try these out

Hi, There is an incompatible driver that is not allowing the memory integrity option to be enabled. Any ideas on how to fix this?

I tried this and it worked. However I still can't open the menu for core isolation. Any ideas how to fix that?

Hi, Today when I started my computer, I got a prompt from windows 11 defender saying that Local Security Authority is turned off and when I click "go to settings" I get the following prompt: "Page not available - The page you are trying to access has no supported features and is not available." (Image of the prompt attached). This only showed up today. The last time my windows updated was a few days ago (don't remember the exact date). I would like to fix this issue without having to reinstall/reset my windows. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys, I just got new steelseries arctis 7+ headphones. It sounds very sharp on the highs and low fiedelity. The mids are balanced very well but the high frequency sounds are really sharp and almost unpleasant. Examples would be close in-game gunshots and footsteps. My audio output is set to Gaming (sonar) and not Chat. I have checked this. I tried lowering the highs manually in sonar graph, increasing gain values, making my own custom eq preset in the engine but it didn't really help and the audio in-game is really bad. It's either low and muddy or very high pitched. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. The sounds are okay when listening to music but in-game audio isn't really what I expected from these headphones. I also tried using Equalizer APO and PEACE but it did not help with the problem so I just disabled it. Any help is greatly appericiated. Here are some of my adjustments:

Thanks for the reply! I'm not sure about the spec of the wireless connector, but the OTG is usb 2.0 most likely.

Hi, Recently, I got new headphones that are yet to be delivered. Steelseries Arctis 7+. One thing about them is that their wireless dongle is type-C. The problem I have is that neither my case nor my motherboard have a type-C female port. I plan to use these headphones with an OTG connector, USB type C female to type A male connector for the wireless dongle. I understand this is not the optimal way to use them but my real question is wether this will cause any problems such as input lag and audio signal loss since these are wireless headphones. My primary use is gaming and video editing. I have also had some plans to update my PC case, now I'm specifically looking for one that has a type C front panel port. Would using an OTG be just as good or should I make the case switch as soon as I can? Any help is appreciated. My motherboard: Gigabyte B550 gaming X Thanks!

I reset my windows from the advanced options after the switch. So it cleaned the previous OS version. I changed my drive to gpt after the reset. I'm still gonna do a complete fresh re-install of windows on my boot drive and convert it to GPT from the insatllation menu.

Hi, I just upgraded my CPU, Motherboard and RAM. Now whenever i press the power button, everything works normally but it takes a few seconds (3-5 seconds) to display anything on the screen (the motherboard logo). After that the windows starts normally and within a few seconds. This only happens on COLD BOOTS. My motherboard is brand new so i don't think it's the CMOS battery. Also, all the fans start spinning and light up as soon as i press the power button but it takes a while to show anything on the screen. Also, I converted my boot ssd from MBR to GPT from windows powershell for the UEFI compatibility. According to a few google searches, it can possibly be my power supply. But i used this same PSU on my earlier CPU, motherboard and RAM but this problem never existed on that. I believe this CPU is less power hungry than the previous one i had but I'm not going to rule out the PSU possibility since I bought it used a while back and it's really old. My previous specs: Core i7-4790 (non-k) Cooler Master Master Air MA410P (CPU Air Cooler) Gigabyte GA-B85M 16 GB DDR3 1600mhz Corsair HX620 620W My new specs: Ryzen 5 5600X Cooler Master Master Air MA410P (CPU Air Cooler) Gigabyte B550 Gaming X V2 16GB DDR4 3600mhz Trident Z RGB (2x8) Corsair HX620 620W Thanks!

I haven't checked the event viewer but can i still need a new battery for my board? It's brand new.

Hi all, I just upgraded my CPU, RAM and Motherboard and on the same power supply, my older CPU/board (specs mentioned below), never caused any problems but this goes into what seems similar to a boot loop? I press the power button, the case fans light up, CPU cooler fan lights up and spins for a while and then goes completely IDLE (while being lit up) and then the entire PC shuts down. Then it boots itself back up and shuts down again. It takes a few attempts to work but when it does boot up, It always resets the BIOS. I then have to go back to the BIOS to re-apply the XMP for my RAM. I've noticed this happens when I cold boot. Like in the morning or after some time it was shut down. When it works, It works perfectly and causes no problems. I cannot identify the problem here. A few online sites say it's the PSU? but I believe this CPU is less power hungry than the previous one i had but I'm not going to rule out the PSU possibility since I bought this PSU used a while back and it's really old. My previous specs: Core i7-4790 (non-k) Cooler Master Master Air MA410P (CPU Air Cooler) Gigabyte GA-B85M 16 GB DDR3 1600mhz Corsair HX620 PSU 620W My new specs: Ryzen 5 5600X Cooler Master Master Air MA410P (CPU Air Cooler) Gigabyte B550 Gaming X V2 16GB DDR4 3600mhz Trident Z RGB (2x8) Thanks!

I would've happily paid the difference for the full ATX board but the thing is that the board is so ugly, it's making me want to re-consider. I originally wanted the Aorus B550 v2 elite (Full ATX) but it's out of stock and i can't find one anywhere.

Any performance diff between these two? The right one is ugly but a full ATX. The on the left will save me eq. to 31$ US. Which one should i get? not really looking for OC and planning to run a Ryzen 5 5600x on these boards.

Hi guys, I'm looking to get a CPU upgrade. I currently have an i7-4790 that is bottlenecking my GTX 1070 in some CPU intensive games. I needed a new and stronger CPU anyways since i do more on my PC than just playing video games. I also plan to get a 3070 in the coming year. So I'm currently deciding within 2 CPUs. Ryzen 7 3700X and Ryzen 5 5600X. The 5600X is out of stock everywhere and those that are selling it are selling it for $50USD more than what the 3700x costs. I'm pretty satisfied with the 3700X's gaming performance even though it's not on par with the 5600X. Also, The 3700X is still better in some multi-threaded results according to a few videos on youtube. The 3700X is easily available and sounds like a good enough upgrade to me (not to mention it's also 50$ cheaper than 5600X). Also need reccomendations for a good board for it (one that is also compatible with 5000 series AMD cpus). My budget for the board is around 150$-170$.

Hi, so I'm in a bit of a pickle. I need to sell my MSI GAMING X GTX 1070 before it's value drops like crazy in my local market. Currenlty it's selling for what i think is a good price. But the problem: I have an i7-4790 with 16gb 1600mhz DDR3 that bottlenecks even my 1070 and an oldie 620w Corsair HX620 PSU and I'm looking to get a 3070. What happened with the 20 series last year in my local market is that the cards appeared shortly after their launch with somewhat good prices and then they ran out of stock for around 10 months everywhere (the affordable 2060/2070 cards) and re-appeared with a 100$-200$ increment in price due to some uncertain reasons (everywhere). Now i don't want this to happen with the 3000 series. Originally, a CPU upgrade was my priority but with the 3000 series cards and with the possible problems in consideration, I'm thinking of getting a GPU first. Now an even bigger problem: I'm really tight on budget and if i'll have to start from 0 if i upgrade my PC right now (after selling CPU and GPU both) but i can get a Ryzen 5 3600 (can hopefully get a 3700x or 5600x next year) with 16GB 3600MHZ and an MSI TOMAHAWK MAX with an RTX 3070 and a PSU upgrade to a brand new hopefully gold/silver certified 600w-650w. Now what's the point of all this rush? My 1070 is gonna devalue pretty quick in the coming few months (I'm trying to save as much as i can while trying to avoid the aforementioned out of stock issue). I have a friend who's buying my CPU/MOBO/RAM in around a month so i can't sell it to someone else. If i sell my card right now, I'll get a good price for my 1070 but I'll have to pair my 3070 with my i7-4790 and 16GB 1600MHZ DDR3 ram for a month (extreme bottleneck). What should i do?

My cpu stays perfectly normal in temps (stays in the 60C-70C range) However, my CPU utilization is around 90% while GPU utlizationhovers around 50%. The classic CPU bottleneck indication.

PUBG, GTA V, Farcry 5, Assassin's Creed Origins, COD Warzone (The multiplayer runs well, warzone has become a stuttery mess. Used to run perfectly when it had just come out). Basically those games that require a lot of CPU simulation.

Thanks for letting me know, I'll try this out. Siege runs perfect tho. I get 150+ FPS on maxed out at 1080p. If i turn it to low @1080p, i get close to, or equal to 200 FPS.

Yes, I'm using Dual Channel at 1600mhz. Not all of my games but the ones that are CPU intensive. Games that benefit more from GPU run flawlessly.

The "k" and the 4.8Ghz. That's the difference my guy. I've seen some benchmarks on youtube. They agree to the strange bottleneck between an i7-4790 and a GTX 1070. I've noticed this too. If I'm playing Farcry 5 on 1080p, i'll get 60-70 fps and dips to 40 on all ultra. If i change that to 4k, all bottleneck is eliminated and i get a very stable 56 FPS on all maxed out.