MustafaXIX

yup locked for me too. really sucks that they do this SteamDB shows that "Exclude from family sharing" was enabled. activision is the worst

I recently picked up a kit of Crucial Ballistix 32GB (2x16GB) 3200MHz CL16 DDR4 (BL2K16G32C16U4W) memory because it was on sale for only £83 during Black Friday. I was hoping to get dual rank Rev.E but apparently crucial have moved away from that so instead I got single rank Rev.B. I couldn't find much online about overclocking this specific kit as most seem to be using the 3600MHz CL16 kit, and most Micron overclocking guides relate to Rev.E since that seems to be most popular. Has anyone attempted to OC this kit or one similar to it, and if yes what frequency and timings did you manage? I know it won't be as simple as copy and pasting the settings but a general idea would help. I've currently got this kit running at XMP settings with Command Rate 1T and my CPU in Gear 1 mode CPU is i5 12600KF and motherboard is Gigabyte Z690 UD DDR4 with the F3 BIOS

another update: i believe i know the reason of this drives death now. i recently upgraded my cpu and motherboard. i did a fresh windows 11 install on my nvme ssd. i used all the different game launchers, ie; steam, epic, origin, uplay, and blizzard, to verify all the games i had on my hdd so instead of reinstalling all of them i could continue as normal. now that i think about it, it mustve been reading and checking over 400gb worth of files. i didnt make them verify all the games at the exact same time, it was like one after the other, but i think that put the final nail in the coffin for this drive. i could already tell it was on its last legs since it would take a while to search for some files, there were bad/reallocated sectors showing on crystaldiskinfo, it wouldnt defragment beyond 2%, and a similar phenomenon occured for a day a couple weeks ago while i was using the old cpu, motherboard and windows 10. i also have an anti sag bracket that has a magnetic base, its not a strong magnet but i put it on top of the drive mounting sled because thats how my case is orientated (bequiet 500DX). the base of the anti sag stand was probably about 1cm above the top of the HDD and had a couple millimetres worth of metal between them too. im not sure if that mightve influenced it because ive read that you need very strong magnets to affect the drive and that the casing of the drives provide enough protection from normal house magnets. what do u guys think?

Anyone know anything about the new Toshiba P300 drives? Ik they were made by Hitachi/HGST before I read somewhere that Toshiba are making the drives themselves now but with the Hitachi design? I'm looking to get the 3TB 7200RPM drive because it's only £63, to use for storage of games and documents My 2tb WD blue 5400rpm recently died This is the model: https://www.scan.co.uk/products/3tb-toshiba-p300-hdwd130uzsva-35-hdd-sata-iii-6gb-s-7200rpm-64mb-cache-oem

Fortunately there's nothing of too much importance on the drive. It was mainly just games that can be easily replaced and a few TV shows/movies. There were lots of documents but majority of them are on other devices like my phone, Google drive and on my email too. I tried the HDD in an external drive caddy for 3.5 and 2.5 inch SATA drives. It interfaces through USB c to my PC. I plugged it in and it started making windows slow down and unresponsive again while it tried to read the drive. I was able to access the files for a minute or 2 before it started crapping out again. I'm going to buy a new drive and then try to copy some of the files over through the caddy

I recently upgraded to a 12600KF and I did a fresh install of Windows 11 Pro This is how the boot sequence looks like: https://streamable.com/dxolw3 I was under the impression that it would have the new circle line instead of the dots as I saw with the insider build. Also the gigabyte logo disappears, doesn't even show the windows logo. This never happened with my Windows 10 install on an MSI B450 Tomahawk board, the MSI logo stayed on the whole time until it booted to the log in screen and the spinning dots in a circle was not stretched either like it is on this board Is this a Windows 11 or Gigabyte problem? Board is Gigabyte Z690 UD DDR4. Windows is installed on an SN750 500GB m.2 NVMe drive that's plugged into the top m.2 slot

Update: I've unplugged the HDD from the PC and it's working perfectly fine now. Tried to plug it back in and windows started crashing again. I tried a different SATA port too but no dice. I think this drive is gone

So I've got Windows 11 installed on a WD Black SN750 500GB NVMe SSD. I used a 2tb WD Blue 5400RPM that I've had since 2017 for mass storage of games, movies, downloads, clips and everything in between. Recently (even when I was on Windows 10) my OS has been acting a bit funny. It randomly freezes and certain functions just won't work like opening the start menu, and refreshing the desktop would make all the apps disappear. it'll take a long time to restart or shudown. Windows explorer will sometimes just lock up and make my whole screen to white. When it happened on windows 10 it went away after a day or 2. I did use the SFC /scannow and the DISM online restorehealth commands which both say they were complete and restored files. I've also tried defragging the drive after it started working again on windows 10. It analysed and optimiser but said the drive was 2% fragmented and it would not go away no matter how many times I used the windows tool to defrag. But it still happens. On windows 11 there was one instance where the drive disappeared and then next boot it reappeared It's weird because it was fine for a few weeks since it happened on windows 10 but now it's happening again. The windows 11 is a fresh install. Even my GPU driver breaks and I think it may be because the instant replay is set to record to my HDD and it's set to use the disk storage as the buffer too instead of system ram. I'm guessing it's a dying HDD or a damaged SATA cable/connection on the HDD, but I'd like to hear what you guys think and if any of you had anything like this before. Thank you

I've had 3 different Gigabyte RTX 30 series cards. 1 3060Ti Gaming OC Pro, 3070 Vision and now I'm currently using an Aorus Master 3070. Gigabyte have slapped big heatsinks on all of these cards, Aorus Master with the biggest. I was surprised by how aggressive the stock vbios fan curve is, Gigabyte/Aorus obviously know how bad the cooling is so they've made the fans spin up much faster to kind of remedy it at the cost of extra wear to the fan bearing and more noise. Let me describe my experience. I've had 3 RTX 3070 cards, 1 FE, 1 Vision and 1 Aorus Master. Currently using the Aorus Master, other have been sold. The FE fans didn't even spin past 1500RPM and were very silent. The card would reach up to 70C in my setup. The Vision fans spun up towards 2200RPM (which is quite loud, around 75% of fan speed) when the card reaches close to 65C. Same story with the Aorus Master. How does a card with a much smaller heatsink and *one less fan* manage to keep thermals in safe margins while keeping fan speeds a whole 500 to 600RPM lower?! Credit where credit's due, Nvidia did a smashing job of their FE cards this time around. Silent. Looks good. Runs well. Gigabyte, you guys did bad. Very disappointing especially for how much you're charging. No doubt using the cheaper direct copper contact method instead of a flat cold plate to cut costs even though these cards are popping up for more than £200 over MSRP in retailers. I'm currently trying to secure an MSI Suprim or ASUS TUF 3070, as both have much better cooling than any gigabyte card from reviews and comparisons I've seen, and I'll either return or sell on this Aorus Master. Gigabyte have left a bad taste in my mouth. People, in a stock alert server I'm in, warned me and I didn't listen thinking there's no way they could charge £720 for a 3070 and put a weak cooler on it... I was wrong. (You can tell a cooler is bad when comparing like-for-like fan speeds and noise. I lowered fans to 50% to get speeds and noise in a comfortable range but the card runs to over 70c and throttles clock = bad cooler which they tried to fix with aggressive stock fan speeds) Anyone interested in buying a Gigabyte card, I recommend try buying from a different board partner as I've told others

Does anyone know if I can get MSI ab to boot on startup for non admin users on my pc? My brother uses the pc to play on his account and he's a standard user. Don't want him running random exe files so UAC has to stay on I've tried the elevated shortcut UAC bypass method but it only allows me to use it on my admin account. It won't run on a standard user acc I've got an undervolt profile for my 3070 and I want it to be running for all users Is there a specific setting I need to set in the scheduled task for it run for any user, regardless if they're admin or standard? I put the elevated shortcut in the startup folder for all users and it only opens on startup for admin accounts

No worries

Added. Thank u

Why would I want more dust in my PC? I specifically mentioned that the case hasnt got filters on the intakes and was asking about the dust build up inside the case

Thank you for this detailed reply. It's very helpful

Hello everyone, I'm currently in the market for a new case and the new Phanteks Airflow cases peaked my interest, mainly because of the glowing reviews from Gamers Nexus and other YouTubers. I'm looking at the P360A in particular but it apparently doesn't have any dust filter on the front intake mesh. My PC setup is in my bedroom so dust is a concern. Owners of this case, or similar cases from Phanteks, how fast does the dust build up/how bad is it inside the case? How often would I need to be using my CompuCleaner to clear it out? If you have other case recommendations for a similar price, £70 to £80, then please leave them in the comments too Edit: as requested here's the fan layout, I'll be using the 2 included front fans and adding my own 2 exhausts to the back of the case. I've read that positive pressure is better to reduce the speed at which dust gathers inside so I'll be setting the exhausts to run at a slightly slower RPM than the intakes. Thank you