funkmon

It honestly doesn't matter a ton if you're looking for linears. Just find the cheapest keyboard with Gateron Clears if you like them. What you could do for funsies is buy a Dell AT101W and Linear mod it.

I have, though not extensively, and 2133 at 14 is about the best. Once I get to the upper 2000s it starts dying, and I'm at 19. Do you think lower speeds with tighter timings is better than higher speeds with slower timings?

I've spent around 30 hours screwing with them. Voltage up to 1.45, upping the SOC voltage, etc. Every time, I start at XMP and then changing the timings up one by one by one. Virtually all the timings. It boots at CL19, even up to 3600 MHz, but I get memory errors. I've tried switching the sticks around and stuff. It just appears to be the limit of what these sticks can do with my motherboard. Yeah that's not going to happen. I'm not going to spend another $300 to get marginally improved RAM speeds and then essentially throw these away. I'll try to keep running with 48 then maybe unless others have something to say in this regard.

Okay guys. Until a few days ago, I had 48 gigs of RAM running in CL16 at 3200 megahertz. Believe it or not, I legitimately ran out of memory a few times editing gigantic raw photos I take occasionally (300 megapixels+). So, I got some more RAM. Now, with 4 16gb sticks at 3200 MHz for 64 gigabytes total, I'm only able to run CL22, but so far, I haven't had any out of memory errors! The timings hurt my CPU in some tasks, I'm told. It's a 3950x and those apparently like fast RAM. I do have a second machine which I rarely use, that is really just for random web browsing and media stuff, that currently has 16 gb of dual channel CL16 3200 MHz. My old config had those two DIMMs in my fast computer, and they were able to run at 3200mhz CL16. I could then run my fast computer with 48 gigs of RAM at good timings, and have my rarely used computer with 32 gigs of RAM with good timings. Is having 32 gb of RAM useful in an R5 2600 system that does basically nothing? So anyway, what would you guys do? Speed or capacity? Deal with memory errors occasionally for an extra 5 FPS in games all the time?

Is it completely random, or can you repeat it? Are there any trends?

So I was actually listening to the song on the record, but when I noticed that everyone was posting music videos, I went to see if I could find footage of Paul McCartney playing the song. What I actually found was a music video shot on what appears to be 35mm film and scanned in perfect 1080p high definition. It looks like it was shot yesterday. I urge you to watch it, because unlike most English productions of the time, it was not shot on 16mm, which is very clearly a low quality option, but, like, movie film. It's great.

Welp, I got it figured out. It turns out the 3.5mm cable I've been using doesn't like my computer (though it's fine with everything else), so I swapped cables. Entering year 23!

Sorry, I meant pink. I did try blue too and it didn't work. The model number is ASC 160.

Well you're the only person talking so no need. 3.5 mm to 3.5 mm. The blue subwoofer connection. It's my old Altec Lansing subwoofer I got back in 97 that works on everything else.

I mean noise. Like putting the connector onto a piece of metal. It's 3.5 mm.

Hi, so I was plugging in my subwoofer to my computer just now, and it works, in that it's receiving some signal, but it's not audio. It sounds like I'm just putting it on metal. Volume control works. I'm running Windows 10 on an Asrock X570 Phantom Gaming 4. What am I doing wrong?

I believe it. :P. I just like the old fogey versus hipster dynamic between guys like me who prefer a 122 key board versus guys like you who use 11 keys and mind control.

And there's the real reason.

If you're going to do any overclocking at all, get the 2600x if the price is close. It's a better binned CPU. What that means is, basically, it's the best version. Let me try one of them ELI5 things. Each chip is different, which is hard to believe, but they are. So, what AMD does is it takes the chips they have made and checks to see their capabilities. The ones that work better get better names and better speeds, because they can handle it. So, the worst ones will be the 1600AF, the medium ones will be the 2600, and the best ones will get the higher power numbers of the 2600x. If the 2600x is within $20, I say get it. I say that having, myself, purchased a 2600, because I know for a fact I'm not going to overclock and I wanted a low power build, but that was a special use case.

No. Your XMP won't hurt the CPU temps much at all. Like barely noticable. It probably just does need a new thermal paste application. That cooler on the 3700X is more than sufficient. However, in my experience, I've actually taken off and redone a cooler like 3 times without reapplying thermal paste and it's fine.

Yes please! Then report back! If it still sucks, it's not a bad idea to pick up an aftermarket CPU cooler, and then you can do some overclocking, but it's always good to make sure it's a problem that actually needs a new part. I might be way off though, but we'll see.

Yep, okay. Look that's insane. Here's what you do. Buy new thermal compound, doesn't matter what kind or how much, take off the cooler, clean off the CPU's heat spreader (the metal piece on the CPU when you take off the cooler) with rubbing alcohol, clean off the bottom of the cooler with rubbing alcohol. Get out your vacuum cleaner or one of those cans of compressed air and suck up or blow out all the dust on the cooler. Now, put about a pea sized dot of thermal paste on the CPU's heat spreader, and put that cooler back on. Then check the thermals. It should drop by about 30 degrees. Okay, 74C is load temps. That's normal. 65 C is not normal for idle. Something's going wrong here. It's technically possible your case has tremendously bad airflow, but I think it's just a bad seating on the cooler.

It looks like a future proofing type of system. That is building now so it'll be better in the future for future upgrades. Like, for example, nothing needs the capabilities of an X570 right now, and you'll do fine with a B450. You're also going to have significantly more processing power than graphics power. You could put a 2080 Ti in that thing and not bottleneck it. If your goal is to have solid gaming right now, and then upgrade it as time goes on, you have a great part list. If your goal is to just have the best possible gaming experience right now, then I'd get a significantly worse and cheaper power supply, a 3600, a B450 mobo, some slightly faster RAM, and a 2070 Super or 2060 Super.

Okay before you spend the money, reseat it and clean the fan just to be sure. That's still insane, unless somehow those coolers were just terrible, and I mean so terrible as to be borderline unusable, but I know they weren't.

So I had never heard of this calculator, but I put my thing in it and it said I need 64 gigs of RAM and to upgrade an RTX 2080 Ti to 4 1080 Tis. What? Can someone explain how this thing even works?

Jesus christ. Always?! As in, not under load? You might not need a new cooler. You might just need to reapply thermal paste and reseat your current one. No cooler works that poorly, even the $5 ones on aliexpress.

ayup. Download the small freeware program CPU-Z, hit the memory tab. See in the top right where it says dual? You want that.

It's all different strokes for different folks. I'm like you. I'm having a ton of trouble using my old Model M without the Windows and context menu keys and guys out here are programming on a single Holy Panda switch with an Iron Man shaped keycap. But hey, if they can do it good.

So what I'm hearing is that you get 60% of the keyboard for 400% of the price.

It has the B part on the indicator lights! That's 33%!