silicon_lottery

11 hours ago, CircleTech said:

hehe high pitched linus

High-nus

In my Dad's office, there is an iMac from mid-2009. I want to connect it to the internet and Amazon Photos so that I can digitize all the photos from the Mac. Once they're all in Amazon Photos, there's no real purpose for the Mac any more.

I was going to consider erasing the entire thing and running Ubuntu/Linux Mint on it, but I could also just run them from a virtual machine and leave the Mac as it is. I know that old Macs can handle Linux without breaking a sweat, but is it something I should really do?

Or should I do something else?

Turns out, against medical advice, someone at Dartmouth was socializing with others instead of obeying his self-quarantine.
Guess what the COVID-19 test result came back as.

I'll wait.

Source

AMD Athlon?

That's a digital dinosaur .

It's an old CPU but it should work fine. However, echoing Aimi's point, we need to know what you want to do.

If it's just general web-browsing, the Athlon may be a good choice.

If you want to game, however... you're better off using higher spec parts.

PCPartPicker is a great site for making partlists.

That spike in South Korea... it doesn't even seem real.

3 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Best case scenario, the fuse is broken in the power supply.  You could open it up and replace the fuse. However that would void the warranty

Most likely though, a component failed inside the power supply, which caused the power supply to consume an excessive amount of energy for a few seconds, which caused the protection in your electrical panel to trigger and disconnect the electricity to protect the house wiring from overheating or getting damaged.

You would have to replace those broken components inside the psu and that's not something a beginner / amateur can do.

 

If the psu is still under warranty, return it for warranty, not much you can do.

 

It has nothing to do with 110v AC vs 220v AC - the psu is modern enough that it would work with around 90v AC ... 260v AC, it auto works in any country with voltage in that range.

Thank you for your input!  

I won't bother with opening it up, I'll leave that to the pros.

A quick Google search shows that my PSU has a 5-year warranty, so I'll RMA it. The PSU is discontinued by SeaSonic, however, so I may also consider getting a new one. In any case, both of these methods mean that I'll have to unplug every cable and record which ones were unplugged. 

Right now, I don't have access to the manual or warranty documents yet. I did save them, so I should be able to get them once I return home. I'll post a detailed update once I'm home.

Once again, thank you!

I built a PC in South Korea, in October 2017. This is a PCPartPicker link to all the specifications. I built it successfully and was able to play it from 2017 until late 2019, when me and my family had to move away to India. I should mention that South Korea uses 110 volts AC, and India uses 220.

So when I plugged the PC in directly, the lights flickered on and it worked for two seconds, then pop! Everything shut off. The PC had killed the power to the whole house! We had to call an electrician to reset the power, and then we pretended like it had never happened.

We bought a new power cord to replace the old one, and yesterday, attempted to turn it back on. We put the new power cord in through a surge protector and nothing happened - the PC didn't turn on. I believe the power supply was fried (even though it was rated from 100-240 V AC).

Should I do a paperclip test or just pay to replace it? For info, my power supply is a SeaSonic G 550 W, link here: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm.

Paperclip test or declare it DOA and get a new one? It wouldn't be the hardest thing in the world, but it would just be annoying.

Cool stuff, especially the H100i!

I've never tried liquid cooling, mostly because I'm unusually paranoid of the possibility of a leak. Whenever I try and experiment with liquid cooling, my brain gives me this equation:

Quote

leak + liquid cooling + computer parts = unusable bits of silicon.

Good luck with your build.

Underclocking? That's a new issue. I wonder if you should bump the base clock up to compensate (basically, a very slow overclocking.) However, this isn't something I'm experienced with, so you may want to wait for another forum user to weigh in.

Good luck solving your GPU issue.

2 minutes ago, Smallpoorgamer said:

Lol okay thank you for reassuring me that I wasn't wasting my money 

No problem, I love helping other people out. As for PUBG and Skyrim, a quick Google search shows that you can get an average of 79 fps on PUBG. Overall, most games will give you an average of 100 fps. So you'll definitely be fine.

4 minutes ago, Smallpoorgamer said:

stream like league of legends

Well, you're in luck.

Even a toaster can run League.

Maybe not a toaster, but my 2010 Macbook Pro could run it at 45 fps. I played League on it fine. So your computer will be fine.

(Not least because it uses hardware which is ten years more advanced.)

Yes. That will definitely be able to stream/game. You probably won't even have to worry about bad framerates for the next few years - the hardware you picked is top-notch.

2 minutes ago, Kaithin said:

How do we even enter rog rig reboot?

Can we have a bit more information? What are you trying to find out?

The "Go Around" song.

Challenge accepted! Well, it would be if I wasn't a broke student.

I'm sure someone else can do this, though.

Are you using PCPartPicker? In situations like this, it'll be super useful.

Well played. 

3 minutes ago, 4stringstargazer said:

electrical discharges leave a lot of black carbon-like crap all over your ring when it's done shocking the hell out of you.

Wow, that's quite shocking. I'm glad I wasn't the one in your current situation.

Did you have to go Ohm and clean the ring?

(Sorry for the puns, by the way. Building PCs is really electrifying.)

Just now, Constantin said:

Way to long time!!!!

I change mine every year, around may, when it start to get hot

Every year? That's fine, but I think two years is a good margin for replacement if the PC had a relatively good life.

How old is your PC?

^ OK, so I'm a complete idiot - I didn't see the first line of the original post. Anyway...

As per @TempestCatto, you may want to use a different thermal paste. Whichever one you want to use is up to you.

Congratulations. Welcome to the PC master race.

Surfshark is pretty good, but I personally use Hotspot Shield as it's reliable and affordable, at least for me. Here's a comparison website.

Also, PIA was the subject of some really complicated controversy that I won't post here, because I don't want to get banned.
Good luck with your VPN!

Just now, Nine Tailed Fox said:

I forgot to put the motherboard standoffs in and shorted it out lol

Ouch. Did you have to get a new motherboard, or were you able to salvage the old one?

2 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

xplosive.

My 1st PC build was in the AT days, where you could easily plug in the power connectors (there were two) "backwards", which I did unknowingly, flipped the switch and blew a hole right through the motherboard, tripping every circuit breaker in the house.

I guess you could say it was a real blowout of a PC. (Sorry.)

I'm sorry for your loss, even if it had a hole through the motherboard.

please do not ban me for my terrible pun

1. Is the PSU fan spinning?
2. Is the ATX connector in?
3. Is the power cord in?
4. Is the monitor power cable in?
5. Is the cord from the monitor to GPU in?

After you've validated this, see if it worked. If it didn't, we can try and figure out what the problem is.