PCDesignerRy
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Posts posted by PCDesignerRy
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Hi Guys!
I've recently been looking at super ultra-wide displays on Amazon.com and I can't seem to find any one that doesn't have pretty bad reviews so far. Is anyone using one of these and can you speak to it being worth buying? I'd really like to have one of these but at the same time I'm trying to do my due dilligence for research. Can anyone recommend a good super ultra-wide for me please?
As always thanks for information! -
4 hours ago, Xiee said:
Do you have mods running on Fallout 4? You'll get huge FPS drops if you run any texture mods that change textures to 2K or 4K. If you have any mods installed, you might also want to consider the load order of these mods as it can affect performance as well.
I did have mods running, I run a ton of mods for Fallout 4, but I went under the performance category and they have some pretty good stuff in there. Using several of those mods, I'm able to basically get my game to run everywhere at 115 FPS smoothly. The mods, basically remove shadows and grass from the game, but everything else is running at ultra, and it changes some of the meshes, but it has made a drastic difference. I do run LOOT
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4 hours ago, LateLesley said:
Och, at that spec, if your at 1440p or under, you're good for a fair wee while. You'd even get away with 4K for a lot of things. Be at least a couple of years before you should be looking at upgrades. well, save for more storage space if you need it. But even spinning rust would do for that, and you can keep the most used stuff on your SSDs. Your spec should tackle most things, unless you want new tech like RTX, then you're looking at a GPU upgrade.
You'd cry if you tried my machine. I'm on an Athlon II generation machine with a GTX 750 Ti and recently upgraded 16GB RAM, up from 8GB. All so I could play Cities Skylines. I cannae play the shooters, all the young whipper-snappers just have me watching myself being shot and respawning.
Well I'm also a bit on the more dedicated side of building which can't possibly be expected of everyone. I have no girlfriend wife or kids, my life orbits around my tech and I've gone so far as both moving states and becoming debt free for the sake of my build. There are different levels of importance though. Still, if I weren't at the level I'm at now on my builds I'd have to question myself pretty heavily.
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26 minutes ago, LateLesley said:
It's not a question that can be answered for gaming in general - games use many different and constantly updating game engines, which have different requirements. And along with that come different hardware requirements too.
From what I can find Fallout 4 uses the Creation game engine. But other games use different ones, like Unity, Source, or RAGE. So while you could optimise your hardware for one engine, it may not be optimal for another.
Also different game engines are optimised differently, some need a fast single core, some spread over multiple cores, some use GPU acceleration, while others rely on the CPU.
So you can't optimise your machine for all games - and that's why people will ask which games you are talking about, to figure out if it's single core bound, multi core, favours CPU or GPU, before making upgrade recommendations.
Also what monitor you have factors in too - Resolution - it's far harder for a GPU to render scenes for a 4K monitor than it is for say 1080p. There's just far more pixels, which means more GPU memory required, and more time to read and throw those pixels at the screen.
The upshot is, in order to cover most games, you just need raw horsepower, which could overcome and shortcomings of different engines, which is why most people go for high end GPUs and CPUs, so there are enough raw speed (IPC and clockspeed) so not to make the difference.
An often overlooked part can be the motherboard too - how the busses are set up and bus speeds can make a difference too, for example PCI-E 3.0 vs PCI-E 2.0 run at different speeds, and the PCI-E 3.0 will be faster and more efficient. It gets really technical though diving that deep, looking at bus contention and things like that, and it's less of an issue nowadays where many components have busses with direct connection to the CPU. But these things can factor in if you are trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of a machine.
You seem to have a reasonably well spec'd PC, though you don't mention your GPU.
The upshop is you need really to go for hardware spec'd above what the recommended specs are for whatever game you are looking to play. And every game has different specs. Could you imagine trying to play Fallout 4 on a machine spec'd for Descent 2??
https://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=2114&game=Descent 2
So, there is no easy answer - you can only ever go for what is decent hardware for the generation you are in. Chances are in 3-4 years, it'll be too old.
It's an Asus Strix 1080Ti
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Thanks for the info guys I really appreciate getting a better understanding of this when considering future system upgrades.
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I was sitting there today playing Fallout 4 because I've gone from getting 40-60 FPS in the Boston Common to now 115 at my max frames basically all the time with my hardware upgrade I've been working on. And as I was sitting there I began to wonder really how hardware affects gaming. You have a motherboard, processor, gpu, but what I'm curious to know about is how these things really affect gaming performance. Without getting into overclocking per say, how does for example a CPU affect a game performance like Fallout4? I'm using an Intel i9-9900KS. It's an 8 core 16 HT 5.0 GHz on all cores CPU, but compared to that they make AMD processors that are what, 64 cores? But what is the perfect ratio of cores to GHz for gaming exactly? There is also the GPU, RAM, and drives the game runs on to consider. My system drive is a 512 TB Samsung 970 Pro M.2, and my Steam files and Fallout 4 is on a separate 1TB Samsung 970 Pro M.2 SSD. My RAM is G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB of DDR4-3200. So in the categories of CPU, RAM, GPU and SSDs what is the perfect balance, or the balance to shoot for to achieve the best performance in gaming?
As always, thanks for any time and knowledge you can afford me -
42 minutes ago, LogicalDrm said:
Are those still using rails etc. so they won't fall down? As in are you using magnets just to keep them in place?
I bought some years ago 10x5mm magnets from one of those Chinese gadget shops (DX.com). They are much smaller than I was aiming for, but surprisingly powerful Like better than any kitchen magnet I have.
Right now the fan controller is mounted to the front of the case with bolts and nuts. The magnets would just hold tight enough to the front of the case that it wouldn't move, in theory.
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3 hours ago, LogicalDrm said:
Could you show pic of the situation? Like where you need the controller to be? That controller is for drive bay, and if you are going with it not on a bay, then you could even use cable ties going through screw holes.
Yes I will be happy to identify where the fan controller will be going via images. It is going in the drive bay.
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Just now, Catsrules said:
I don't really foresee to many issues. as far as I am aware hard drives are the only thing that can be affected by magnets in a computer and even then you need a really powerful one.
It just depends on how strong your magnets are and how magnetic your case is. Magnets usually are very strong when they are pulled apart from the side.
You might want to look at Velcro or something. Although that would require you to stick it to your case as well. Unless you can find a way to screw it down maybe.
Velcro would work because it would still allow the fan controller to be detached, although it might be hard to find strong enough velcro. I'm hoping to find magnets basically strong enough that it would be as if they were screwed down when attached to the case, having to pull quite hard to remove them, but that's why I'm looking to buy many. Since I'm using nothing but M.2 SSDs in my build, these would be far away from any drives, and any other moving parts for that matter. Velcro would definitely be something to consider if I could find some that is REALLY strong. I did try screws (or at least a bolt and nut kit) for this originally.
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4 minutes ago, SpookyCitrus said:
You could also just use some double-sided sticky tape. I've used this for mounting tons of things, hard drives, control hubs, holding down laptop covers, and even for iMac screens. It works really well.
Yeah I was thinking about that originally but I want to make sure that should I ever need to I can still remove the part, like if it dies, or if I ever find something better that I want to use. I suppose you could still do that with double-sided tape, but I want to make sure it doesn't leave any sticky residue behind. If this doesn't end up working I may end up doing that anyway.
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So, I'm thinking of trying something in my build and I wanted to get some opinions about it. I had a hell of a time getting the first 6-channel fan controller I bought to fit in my computer case. I actually had to use a dremmel tool to mod my case with the use of bolts to get the panel to work and to hold right. I'm about to switch from my Thermaltake Commander F6 to my Lamptron 30W FC-8 fan controller. Instead of going through the fiasco of what I had to do the first time around with this part, I was thinking of trying to buy some strong adhesive-backed magnets, mount them on the fan controller to where the mounts would normally screw into the case frame, and see if that will hold strong enough that I can put my case's front panel back on without it moving or being an issue. The challenge is finding magnets that are A) strong enough and basically as strong as possible and B) the right size to fit where they need to. Luckily magnet sets don't cost much so I'll probably buy many sets, use the ones that work and store the ones I don't use. Has anyone tried and succeeded at this? Can anyone think of any possible issues I may not be considering? If this ends up working well I can think of a few other places where I might be able to make this method work with the right magnets too.
As always, thanks for any time and knowledge that you can afford me! -
1 minute ago, seon123 said:
The PC doesn't overheat, because of the overkill cooling I have. A 212 Evo isn't great, but it's plenty to cool a first gen Ryzen 4 core. And the massive Accelero Xtreme IV is perfectly able to cool the R9 280 at full load, with the fans spinning at idle RPM (3x 92mm at 670RPM)
The noise concern isn't for everyone else - the house does have doors. It's for my own sake, and so I can hear my cat. The clock on the wall is louder than the PC, which is kind of amusing
Just our of curiosity since you mentioned that twice, why is it so important for you to be able to hear your cat? That's a quite random detail lol.
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4 minutes ago, seon123 said:
Some of us like not having to wear headphones when gaming. If the PC is silent at load, I can e.g. fold with it without being bothered. And I can play games at 3AM, without headphones, no game audio, have my cat lying on top of the PC, and listen to him purr.
You can also consider upgrading the GPU cooler to an aftermarket one. The Raijintek Morpheus 2 and Arctic Accelero Xtreme III/IV are good options. If all the components can be cooled with lower fan speeds, that can help more than just upgrading the fans.
All the while your PC overheats lol if I had a cat, I would NOT allow it to lay on top of my PC. To each his own. I still play at 3 AM with 3000 RPM fans by owning a Soundblaster Katana X...... and a house. Admittedly though, if you liquid cool your RAM, your CPU, your GPU, and any HDDs you have, you should be able to get by with virtually 0 case fans.
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Why do people always value silence over performance? Watching a movie takes virtually no performance from case fans. While gaming, crank those fans to high................... with a fan controller. All case fans with the exception of the fans attached to a liquid cooling radiator should be set up with the use of a fan controller so that you can have the selection between silence and performance. But pretty much silent fans sacrifice performance to be silent. I don't mean vibration or buzzing or anything but a 3000 RPM 140mm fan is going to be loud at full speed. But with a fan controller that fan can be adjusted to anywhere from 800 RPM, 400 RPM, 200 RPM, or even off. Do yourself justice and install a fan controller for the fans in your build. The Lamptron FC8 8 channel fan controller is a very very nice choice!
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Not a single computer shop anywhere around?
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Oh sweet! I see now! Yeah that will make it look a lot cleaner. Thanks guys!
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Ok, this is a slightly complicated question but I'll do my best to cover it. First, I have an Asus Strix 1080Ti card. That card takes two individual 8-pin power connections from the PSU. My PSU is a corsair AX1200i. It is a modular PSU and I have a custom braided red cabling kit compatible with the PSU. Here's the rub. My power cable for my GPU, is a single cable running from the power supply, to the GPU, that first connects into the GPU for the first 8, and then immediately splits off into another 8-pin split from that so I literally have to make a loop of cabling from the first connection to hit the second, and it leaves a very awkward and messy lump of cabling at the power connection to my GPU. I've seen very clean builds with braided cabling from the PSU where the cabling to the GPU appears to be two individual cables. Also in many GPU builds I see a card with power that is an 8-pin and then a 6-pin instead of 8 and 8. Sorry that the images aren't that great. The white cabling is an image I found. It clearly has a gpu power cable with 6 and 8. The red cabling is my GPU cabling. It's a single cable from the PSU that to be connected to the GPU has to be looped and folded and couldn't possible be cleaned up with cable combs. So, to the point, I'm trying to figure out what I'm missing to be able to do my GPU cabling in a way that's much more clean that this, and hoping someone can help. Sorry about the long-winded explanation.
As always, I appreciate any time and wisdom that you can afford me.
Thanks!
Also, for the record, this is in fact a sneak peek of my build but despite how messy these peeks look I fully intend to organize my internal cabling to perfection (if I can figure out how to do that). -
Lights can still be on for parts without them functioning especially if the PSU is capping out on power, purely speculative though. Without having specific tools the real only thing to do would be to take it to a computer shop where they can test it and make sure it's working. If it is. maybe you need to get a higher level, but 750 also is a fair amount of power for a small build like this one.
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Just now, Sauron said:
I dislike 21:9 monitors and I would never spend over $800 on a single monitor anyway... also I don't like curved displays. So I guess it's a "no" from me...
Would you care to name a monitor you would go with?
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Ok, let's talk serious about displays for a minute. I'm coming from my Asus PG348Q, a good solid monitor, but with the new build I'm rising up into the stratosphere with my selection of parts and the monitor I've got in my sights is.... (drumroll)...
The MSI OPTIX MPG341CQR
This monstrous monitor has a 144Hz curved 3440x1440 display with HDR400 and a 1ms response time. I'm interested to know if anyone else is running this display, and what you know about it, what you think about it, do you like it, do you hate it, do you hate the pricetag of this monitor, and if you didn't go with this, what display would you choose instead? -
Seems like a power supply issue to me if it's an instant shutdown, like the power just cuts out. That would be the first thing I'd check.
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I just recently decided I don't do HDDs anymore in my system unless I'm running a raptor but now I'm finally up to using nothing but M.2 SSDs. The further up you can go the more reliable the drive seems to get from HDD. I hope that you are able to recover your files
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The Right Super Ultra-Wide Display
in Displays
Posted
I was looking at the Samsung CHG90 but it seems to have pretty bad reviews from Amazon so I'm not sure if it's good or if it sucks, but for $1500 I expect to get a good product that's why I'm trying to do the crap out of my research before buying.