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About LateLesley

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  1. Does the new TV have SPDIF out, and the amp have SPDIF input? Cos one way around would be to HDMI straight to new TV, and then optical audio to the amp. Just an idea to explore.
  2. I had a quick look at the manual - you'll probably have to boot with the monitor connected to the Motherboard DVI port. Go into the BIOS, and in to the TOOLS menu in the BIOS, in ther, there should be an option to choose the GPU Bus, as well as showing GPU information. Make sure you choose the PCI-e slot your GPU is in. Also while in the BIOS , go into the BOOT menu, and check how CSM Compatibility support module is configured. I don't think there's anything there which would affect it, but there is a PCI-E/PCI Expasion devices option, and it's worth checking that there aren't any settin
  3. First, I would try following these steps. https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/76187?hl=en
  4. Someone laid out how they did it, it was a social engineering scam of sorts, trying to get you to use their music in your own video's, saying you could use it royalty free, then they'd copyright claim it, to get revenue from it. So there was a mechanism for it, but it only really targeted creators. I think most creators would have been suss to it, but you know how these scams go. They cast the net wide, and see what they catch.
  5. I have to say, I actually liked it. Though I did come to the party late. It got a lot of bad press, because it seemed slow, and was buggy to start with. The main problem it had, was it really needed 2GB of RAM to stretch it's legs, but got installed on machines with anywhere from 128MB to 512MB of RAM. That just killed it's performance, constantly paging, and therefore ran like a dog. As hardware caught up, and fixes got applied ironing out the bugs, it got way better. I actually preferred it to Win 7, I liked the way the Audio worked, the video desktop. Win 7 killed both those th
  6. welll, it IS possible. it connects to the PCI-E slot in the board, and then on to the CPU or the chipset. But driver crapping out, and artifacts on the screen, I'm 95% sure its the GPU that is the issue, bar an oddball problem. It could be bad power, but PSU problems usually show up as not powering up, or reset under load. I'd reckon a PCI-E slot issue, or motherboard issue, you'd have no video at all. My years of PC experience give me a gut feeling of GPU issue in this case. I'm pretty sure a GPU would fix the problem. you'll need a GTX 1050 to get similar performanc
  7. Yeah.... that looks like you don't have the option. It could be as WoodenMarker says, and it uses voltage control anyway. It does say in the manual that you can use 3 pin or 4 pin fans in the connector, but if it is PWM controlled, a 3 pin fan will just run a full tilt in the 4 pin socket. If it's voltage controlled, you'll be able to control the fan speeds.
  8. It can't do any harm, the GPU will be several years old. SO it's probably dried out the same. And it could be clogged with dust too. What I would, is carefully strip down the card, heatsink off, blow out the fins, clean off the old paste from the GPU chip and the heatsink. I'd dust the card down (well, I actually use a vacuum with a brush attachment - NOT recommended due to static issues, but I mitigate that with grounded foil on the end of the hose), then I'd wash it with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush, paying particular attention around all the chip edges (but not ro
  9. Yeah.... that looks like something died. Possibly memory related. There have been cases of GPU's suffering from "Bit Rot", where the Video BIOS gets corrupted, so if you are feeling keen, you can try reflashing the BIOS and see if it resolves the problem. But if not, chances are A memory chip or the GPU has had a partial failure, and it'll be time for a new card. I have also seen cases where just a build up of dust on parts can bridge lines and cause funny stuff to happen. And a 560 Ti will be pretty old. It may be worth removing the heatsink, cleaning the whole card down, then re
  10. Make sure you have one stick installed correctly, properly clicked into the socket. Unplug power, reset your BIOS setting with the jumper, then plug in and turn back on. It may not show anything, then turn off, and may do that 2 or 3 times. Newer motherboards seem to do a memory retraining thing, and turn themselves off and on a couple of times before booting. If it eventually fires up, just can then try the same routine, except with the new stick fitted. See if that boots. If it does, then it's time to add the rest of the ram, and repeat the process. I know it's a pain, but it's a
  11. I agree, scan with malwarebytes. https://download.cnet.com/Malwarebytes/3000-8022_4-10804572.html Also you can do a scan with Trendmicro's House call https://www.trendmicro.com/en_us/forHome/products/housecall.html If it comes up clean with those two scans, you should be good.
  12. https://www.amazon.com.au/5-25-inch-Fan-Speed-Controller/dp/B01LN3YJPO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=5.25+fan+controller&qid=1583417343&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com.au/Thermaltake-Commander-Channel-Controller-AC-010-B51NAN-A1/dp/B00V80IQTS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=5.25+fan+controller&qid=1583417343&sr=8-3 From what I can see, the first one only uses 3 wires for each fan, even though they have 4 pin connectors. This means it'll use voltage control for the fans, and the 3 pin ones will work. The second (Pricy!!) one looks like it'll do 5 fans, and it says it
  13. With those specs, I'd get a new one, unless you trust your old PSU with your shiny new components. That PSU is at best 88.7% efficient, and while decent, it will have aged. https://www.silentpcreview.com/CoolerMaster_Silent_Pro_M2_720W According to that article, it mostly uses Teapo caps for the secondary side. They're not the best, and rated for about 2000 hrs use. If you've used your PSU longer than 2000 Hrs, they become suspect. http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/Teapo/Teapo Series Table.pdf It not to say it wouldn't work, but PSUs
  14. eBay - but it's not cheap. Might be worth waiting to see if there's a better deal. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Asus-Vivobook-S15-S530U-CPU-Cooling-Heatsink-Fan-13NB0IA0P01111-13NB0I90AM0101/133192155632?hash=item1f02df01f0:g:0y0AAOSwiXNdl0kC
  15. Re check how you installed the new cooler. Did it have a backplate to it? Could it be shorting on the board? is the new cooler plugged in properly? I'm focussing on the cooler, cos that's been the change. if all seems sound, then strip the computer to barebones, unplug everything except the 24pin power, the 8 pin cpu power, the gpu pci-e power. try and boot with just cpu, cooler, one stick of ram, and GPU. If that works, shut down and add back one thing at a time, till you either have everything working, or you find what's killing the machine. That's the fi