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Yes, I can do that. But then it's locked at that speed and it doesn't boost under load.

As I said, I did all those things. I left the CMOS unplugged for 10 minutes because it was nearly impossible to plug back in, and I also held down the power button while it was unplugged to make sure I drained all the electricity. And I updated the chipset drivers and everything. Still at 4 GHz though.

Did all that. Nothing changed. Also uninstalled Ryzen Master but nothing changed. I installed Gigabyte's Easytune software but it doesn't even open, which is unsurprising since it's a piece of software that's made by Gigabyte.

Important specs: Ryzen 7 2700x Gigabyte AB350N-ITX Kraken X61 AIO cooler I've been having a problem where my CPU constantly runs at or near 4GHz even when there is no load. This leads to high idle temps (65c). This only happened after I started using Ryzen Master, before this I would use my motherboard's overclocking tool however it was quite useless because it's made by Gigabyte and their software is garbage. Ryzen master says everything is at stock. When I put a load on the CPU, my temps go up to 90 degrees and my motherboard VRMs thermal throttle at 125 (!) degrees celsius. The VRM's overheating is a seperate problem but for now I'm just worried about my CPU's inability to control its clocks. I've tried to reset my BIOS settings to default but this problem remains. When I set the Ryzen Master profile to manual, I can pin the CPU at a lower speed but then it doesn't boost under load so I'd be losing out on performance. I've also installed the Ryzen balanced power plan but this changed absolutely nothing. All I want is for my CPU to run at low speeds when there's no load and to boost to (or near) its rated boost clock when there's a load. Any idea how I could get there?

3300x. Here's a great video on this exact matter:

Yes, FX is garbage. Get some Ryzen

intel should have a public datasheet depictinf functions of all the pins. Google is your best buddy here

I don't think they should be doing liquid metal if they can barely even get the build to work, but oh well.

Remove the motherboard and make sure the IO shield is put in properly and none of its metal bits go into the USB ports.

Yeah that's probably why it's gone. Factory defects happen. If you buy used parts then you know they'll work because they've already been used and thus they work.

Try reseating ram and cpu. If that doesn't fix it then likely your board is gone due to old age.

If that doesn't work then likely the motherboard is gone. CPU's are very unlikely to fail because they're small and tightly engineered with few components.

1. Invest in a bigger SSD instead of multiple ones. 2. Do you really need 32GB of ram? 3. X570 motherboard is overkill. Get a B550 one and your wallet will approve. 4. 750w power supply is overkill, 500w should be fine 5. You don't need an AIO liquid cooler unless you really need it to look cool. 6. Ryzen 3600 vs 3600x is a small difference. Get the 3600 instead Then with all this saved money, get a better GPU.

Base clock is irrelevant, you should be paying attention to the boost clock. The CPU constantly changes it's speed according to the load, and it will even drop under the base clock under very light usage, so really the base clock is a useless figure.

Reseat the CPU and clean its contacts on the underside. If the RAM functionality is spotty and the motherboard is blaming the CPU then it's probably the CPU.

Did you remove the protective plastic under the cooler? Did you apply thermal paste? Did you mount the cooler according to the instructions? If yes, then there's nothing you can do except enjoy your Intel CPU which overheats because Intel has been using the same outdated production process for 5 years.

I often wonder how inexperienced builders always end up with such excessively high-end hardware.

This is normal for Ryzen. Ryzen doesn't downclock during low usage like intel does, so it's always running at high speeds regardless of load, which produces more heat. Also because of the 7nm process used by Ryzen 3000 chips, the dye is physically very small so the heat is concentrated in a smaller point under the IHS, making these chips extra hard to cool, including under load.

It could be that they're simply not compatible. I've used Intel H61 boards with 900-series GPUs which worked fine, so you could try one of those

The HDMI traces don't connect directly to the GPU die so a GPU has seperate control chips for HDMI and Displayport and all those things, which means that if those control chips died then technically the GPU could work fine but without being able to output an image.

I've always wondered this. What happens if you plug two monitors in the PC, one in the motherboard and one in the GPU, and then opened a game and dragged it across the monitors? Well it turns out it just uses whatever GPU you first opened the game on. In the video below, I opened Fornite (cringe, i know) on the left monitor which was hooked up to the RX 570 and then dragged it to the right monitor which was plugged into the iGPU and it kept running at the same framerate. I then unplugged the monitor from the GPU and even though the remaining monitor was plugged into the motherboard, it kept running at the same framerate. Linus made a video where he used Mining-made GPU's for gaming by using a little trick to feed the GPU's output to the motherboard, but I guess this is just built into- and used by Windows by default? If so, does anybody know how this could be manually turned on? This would be really useful for someone who has a GPU that works but just can't output an image on its own ports. 20200316_231233_1_1.mp4

Under 250 you're not gonna find anything that has VRMs decent enough for a 3950x

Tape

4930k is for the 2011 socket so you would also need a new motherboard.

Yes should be fine