Pool Float

Since laptops are pre-built by the OEM, Asus in this case, it should have shipped from them with Windows 10 installed. I can't imagine they would sell a laptop to a reseller without an OS installed. If I remember correctly, Microsoft charges less than $15 for OEM Windows 10, since they don't have to support it. I checked the nVidia site, and there are no drivers available for 3000M series, so you may need to use it with a generic driver until they are released. For the CPU/chipset, you can try this one: AMD Ryzen™ and Athlon™ Mobile (Chipset) Drivers & Support | AMD

If a brand new laptop arrived without an OS installed, you've got a bigger issue than missing drivers. I'd be on the phone/chatting with Asus right now.

Are you sure it's not the ROG Strix G17 G713? ROG Strix | Gaming Laptops｜ROG - Republic of Gamers｜ROG Global (asus.com) ROG Strix G17 G713 | ROG Strix | Gaming Laptops｜ROG - Republic of Gamers｜ROG Global (asus.com) That's the closest model number I could find online with a 3070 and 5900HX.

Yes, if you don't want to go through a complete reinstall, then at the very least the old chipset drivers need to be removed. I personally always reinstall Windows for a clean start with new hardware. I took a chance on not doing it with the 3700X to 5800X, and it went bad.

OK, since you're on newer hardware, and never touched SATA config, then you should be fine to just move all the drives over. Just make sure that the one with Windows is higher up on the SATA ports, so the BIOS will see it first. Assuming Windows boots, it will first run a detection of new hardware/devices, and then boot to your login screen. Once logged in, you will want to install the AMD chipset drivers that match your current board.

Technically only a BIOS update was needed. But it wasn't that simple for me, and I'm still dealing with gremlins. What are the specs of your current computer? You can move the non-OS drives over without issue, but the SATA configuration for your current system will determine if you can attempt to boot Windows without reinstalling it clean. Depending on the age of your current system, SATA can be in 1 of 3 modes: Legacy (also known as Compatible), AHCI, or RAID Each of these modes changes how drives are seen by the BIOS/UEFI and Windows. And the setting needs to match in order to have the best chance at booting.

To add some more information: After the first reinstall, I downloaded the latest Realtek audio drivers, Nvidia drivers (RTX 2080 Ti), X570 Chipset, and X570 RAID drivers. In subsequent reinstalls, I skipped the Realtek drivers, since I've read they can be problematic. The only settings I change from defaults in the BIOS are: XMP (Enabled) Infinity Fabric (1600MHz) - for some reason AUTO runs as 1500MHz according to HWiNFO SATA Mode (RAID) - not NVMe RAID CSM (Disabled) Secure Boot (Enabled) - but I've tried leaving this alone as well

Hi there! I ordered the 5800X on launch day, and promptly upgraded from the 3700X as a drop-in replacement (Mrs. Float was building a new PC, and wanted my 3700X). My motherboard (ASRock X570 Taichi) was upgraded to BIOS 3.60 while still running the 3700X in order to be compatible with Ryzen 5000. Everything worked fine before and after the BIOS update, while still running the 3700X. After the CPU upgrade, Windows (2020 H2) ran fine, but some apps and games were acting weird. Specifically, Time Spy would crash, WoW would crash when enabling ray-tracing, and some other random wonky behavior. However, my monitors going to sleep after the specified idle time was not an issue. After a couple days of troubleshooting everything else, I opted to just reinstall Windows. The reinstall went fine, and everything worked fine immediately after. Installed the X570 chipset and RAID drivers, still fine. Monitor would shut off, PC would sleep. I then went through reinstalling almost all of my usual apps and games. At some point, Windows decided that it will no longer sleep according to the timer, and the monitor never turns off, either. Locked or unlocked. I've reset the power scheme (Balanced) to default several times. According to AMD, Balanced is the preferred scheme for Ryzen 5000. I used to use Ryzen High Performance, which no longer gets installed with the chipset drivers. Searching around online, I've seen suggestions to run "powercfg -requests" since there was likely a driver keeping my PC awake. I found a lock related to my Realtek audio driver, audio-technica microphone, and NVIDIA Broadcast. I updated the drivers for my sound card and reinstalled NVIDIA Broadcast. No change. Exited NVIDIA Broadcast, and most locks disappeared. Still no sleep. Disabled it from starting on boot, restarted, no locks to be seen anywhere. PC and monitor still won't sleep. I've manually rebooted a few times, checked for driver locks, and then manually locked my computer while sitting there for up to 20 minutes. Monitor never goes black (lockscreen on the whole time), and computer never sleeps. Looking around on r/Windows, I saw some similar posts about sleep, and they were advised to check for a problematic app/driver in Event Viewer. I know the times that I manually rebooted for testing, but I don't see anything out of the ordinary in there. Can anyone suggest what to check next? Are there any apps out there than can crawl through the very busy Event Viewer to possibly make it easier to narrow down? At the time I posted something very similar on r/Windows, I was running 3.60 BIOS version. I have since tried 3.61, 3.62 (beta), and now 3.67 (beta), in addition to 2 more Windows 10 reinstalls (2020 H1 and H2) in order to try and narrow the cause down. I've had no luck as all, and am beyond frustrated with this.

A fresh Windows install is always best, although you can carry an existing one forward if your new hardware supports it. Depending on the current SATA config in your BIOS (AHCI, RAID), and other things like CSM or SecureBoot, you may not be able to get Windows to boot on the new board. I just did a drop-in upgrade from Ryzen 3000 to 5000, and it was a mess (separate post coming on that), so I personally would always recommend an OS reinstall when changing motherboard/CPU.

Thank you. I guess the main concern was a man-in-the-middle attack, but as I think about it with a refreshed mind, it does in fact make sense that you'd need to provide the key in order to access data they cannot otherwise decrypt. Researching while tired is not recommended. I first heard of Backblaze a few months ago on an LTT video, and the price was definitely attractive. And not having to manually locate all >4GB files and system files that I want to backup will be a huge time savings as well.

I've been using Carbonite for 2 years, and am mostly happy with it, but I think it's time to look for something else. I have the Personal Plus plan, since I have a lot of video files and didn't want to manually select them all like the cheapest plan requires. I also have quite a few files that exceed the 4GB cutoff for auto backup, which is not a huge deal, but I'd prefer to not have to do that anymore. The above being said, my biggest annoyances by far are: System files (.dll, .inf, etc) are not backed up automatically - I'm not trying to backup my OS, but I do like to keep other folders backed up where these exist Confusing backup indicators - the backup indicators that tell me a file/folder is or is not backed up frequently don't make sense. It will be orange (pending backup), yet when I check the cloud, it's safely there already I've been reading up on other options for the past few weeks, and will be looking to make a move at the end of August, when my Carbonite subscription runs out. My backup set will hover around 7-9TB, so high/unlimited storage is preferred I'd prefer to not pay over $10-15/mo Mobile app is nice, but not required I have gigabit internet up/down, so I'd prefer one with decent upload speeds From the reading I've done so far, I am trying to find the best option between these: Backblaze CrashPlan iDrive Anyone have recent experience with these? Most comparisons and feedback online are 2-3 years old. I've seen mentions of encryption being riskier on Backblaze, since you need to upload your private key each time you want to download files, which technically means they're not zero-knowledge since the key allows them access to everything.

Yeah, it's a weird site for sure.

https://www.cnet.com/news/walmart-will-discontinue-jet-com-nearly-four-years-after-3b-purchase/ Looks like Linus and the team will soon have one less place to real cheap video cards with faked specs. At least there's still Aliexpress and others to fill the gap. For me, I'm just heartbroken over all the overpriced games and not-at-all knockoff video game consoles I'll have to go elsewhere to not buy. Driving past the soon to be shuttered warehouse visible from the NJ Turnpike should be interesting. I wonder how long until Amazon leases the space.

Just wanted to update everyone real quick. I installed the new PSU last night, and although the coil whine did not go away completely, it's at least 70-80% quieter now. As soon as the fans kick up a bit, you can't even hear it anymore.

Best Buy only carries the 850W, and I can get it for $110 with my accrued rewards. I've also been striking out on most others on your list, either in inflated prices or stock issues. As long as the 850W isn't a step down in reliability, I'll go with that one. Thanks again for your help.

Thank you for the very detailed answer above. I found your PSU list, and if I read it correctly, I believe this PSU would work for my setup. Is that correct? https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-rmx-series-850w-atx12v-2-4-eps12v-2-92-80-plus-gold-modular-power-supply-black/6229601.p?skuId=6229601

Based on what I read/saw on the topic so far, I was wondering if the power supply not having the second 8-pin CPU plug could potentially be causing less stable power delivery to the board, and therefore possibly exacerbating the issue when the GPU pulls more power.

Hi there, I built my current PC back in late December, and due to my dumb bass misplacing a modular cable and needing to get up and running ASAP, ran to Best Buy and picked up an EVGA 700W Bronze PSU to replace the modular 720W I planned to migrate over. All seemed well with the world (other than unrelated motherboard issues) until I decided to upgrade my GPU from a GTX 1080 to an RTX 2080 Ti. I noticed what sounded like fan noise on the GPU, and RMA'd it back to Zotac. During the 3 weeks they had my card, I used a borrowed RTX 2070 Super, but still heard the same noise (just a little quieter) while the GPU was under load. My replacement 2080 Ti arrived, and the old noise levels came back as well. I then started digging a little deeper into the source, and most people on Reddit seemed to be complaining about a similar sound from the SB fan on my board (ASRock X570 Taichi). Flashed the April 2020 BIOS update meant to address SB fan noise, and although it did in fact improve the fan curve, it also made it clear that the sound I was hearing was not coming from the SB. I then went down the rabbit hole of random forums, LTT and JayzTwoCents videos, and arrived at the conclusion that I was dealing with coil whine. It seems to be hit or miss on if replacing the power supply with a better quality one would fix the problem or not, and so here I am. I was able to vary the noise levels by adjusting the power limit on my card in Afterburner. I was running it at 115%, with a +90 Core and +750 Memory OC. Lowering power limit back to 100% did lower the noise somewhat, but not a lot. Thinking back to my GTX 1080, I don't recall ever hearing this sound. As already mentioned, my current PSU is an EVGA 700W Bronze. I'm looking at a 1000W EVGA Gold or 1000W SilverStone Technology Platinum to replace it, and wanted to get some thoughts/opinions on if it's worth it.

As one of the many people who are now working remote, I'm trying to share the keyboard and mouse from my gaming PC with my work laptop. Since I need to be on a VPN, software sharing solutions do not work most of the time. I purchased a splitter from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RC8F2L3/), but since it works by disconnecting the keyboard and mouse from each computer when not in use by it, my Zboard gaming software breaks and I'm forced to reboot my desktop before I can use the keyboard's gaming functions. I've seen some enterprise solutions on some older websites, but they're all $300USD and up. Can anyone suggest a device that can actively share my keyboard and mouse between 2 computers? I'm using a USB-C dock with my work laptop, and a spare input on my second monitor, so I have no need to split/share video through it.

Thanks to everyone for their advice. A 2080 Ti is the best option for my upgrade from a GTX 1080, and I found ZOTAC selling them on eBay for $809 USD with 10% off the normal price. They're refurbished, but come with a 30 day return and 90 day warranty. I have a test plan worked up with a buddy who is hardcore into gaming and always in search of the next, best piece of tech. Hopefully all goes well with the recommended stress tests, and it not, I'll send it back. My girlfriend is quite excited to be getting her GTX 1080 next week. For anyone interested, here's the link to the card I purchased: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZOTAC-Gaming-GeForce-RTX-2080-Ti-AMP-Graphics-Card/383243656558

That's my main concern. WoW is what she will spend ~90% of her gaming time playing. Although it's been a long time, I originally left AMD with the XFX 570X over driver issues.

The 1080 being slower than the AMD cards doesn't make sense. In my old build (i7-7700k) and current build (Ryzen 7 3700x), it nearly matched (at 1440p) what the RX 5600 XT is getting at 1080p.

Yeah, I've seen that the 2080S is only a minor performance bump from the 2080. I'm mainly curious to see if anyone has a 2080S and plays WoW at 1440p. I play other games as well, but that is my main timesink. I don't disagree with you. But she won't just take it for free. So I charge her for the card, and then find ways to get the money back to her through paying for things we would normally split. I was reading that the 3000 series may come out around June. The main reason behind this idea was to get her older PC the best bang for the buck on her GPU. Looking over some general benchmarks between the 3 cards involved, this is what I found: RX 5600 XT - ~60% faster than GTX 970 RTX 2060 KO - ~70% faster than GTX 970 GTX 1080 - ~110% faster than GTX 970 Although her PC is still running a 1st gen Core i7, it's still fast enough for her now, thanks to 24GB RAM and SSD upgrades. Towards the end of next year, she's planning a upgrade, and figured that from the numbers above, the GTX 1080 would suit her better.

Background: My gaming PC is currently running on a ASUS ROG Strix GTX 1080 OC. I play at 1440p on a 144Hz Samsung monitor. My girlfriend's gaming PC is still chugging along on a GTX 970. She plays at 1080p on a standard 60Hz monitor. She plans to eventually go with 144Hz, but still 1080p. We just completed a build for a friend, and she got a little jealous of the 90-100fps average in World of Warcraft (1080p, all settings except resolution scale at max). This brings us to the topic of this post. The card used for our friend is a PowerColor Red Devil RX 5600 XT (with BIOS flash). The current price for this card is $309 at Micro Center, and my girlfriend is now contemplating an upgrade since that is within her budget. However, since I play games at 1440p and prefer as close to Ultra as possible, I suggested the option of her buying my GTX 1080, and my picking up the RTX 2080 Super. Most cards are around $700 currently. She is not opposed to this swap, as the GTX 1080 will be a really nice upgrade for her. But I'm trying to figure out what kind of average performance boost I may see going from the 1080 to a 2080 Super. I've been down the YouTube rabbit hole today, but most videos are comparing the 1080 Ti to the 2080 Super, and say it's not worth it. Much like how I was swayed to give Ryzen a shot on the forums, I'm curious for people's thoughts on if it's worth spending ~$400 to go from a 1080 to a 2080 Super, or if I should stay where I am and just spend ~$300 on replacing her GTX 970. I currently get between 50 and 75fps reliably (with occasional bumps to high 80s), depending on how busy an area is. Again, this is on max for all settings, as well as the resolution scale at 200%. Feel free to ask for any more details that I may have left out.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I ended up going with the 3700x, and putting the $30 towards a better case. I haven't done a proper stress test for temps yet, but while running PC Mark, the hottest the CPU got was 52C, before quickly dropping back into the 40s when the Noctua fans ramped up. Sadly it was a bit of a PITA to get Windows up and running on my selected board. Wasn't a BIOS compatibility issue, but from what I read online (sadly after the fact), the X570 chipset has been a little problematic with some CPU/RAM combos on this board.