Stu_Bear

You should figure this out...then post how to do it so I can do it myself...inquiring minds want to know.

Enable all-core boost...just have all cores running at 4.1...technically it's not overclocking. Maybe some non-OC mobos will allow you to do this ? I forget things...

Best way to squeeze the most out of that gaming laptop battery is to take it to you local pawn shop....sell it for a huge loss...then go buy a desktop for half the price and twice the performance. Sorry couldn't resist...

I don't think it can be done the way you are proposing. BIOS and OS dictate the terms in which the cpu is used...not the application (game)...

If you got a overclock mobo you can boost all the cores to 4.1ghz...if not 3.89 is plenty imho.

Keep an eye on your credit card bill and bank account....that will be the first clue. Time to wipe your drives...best not to keep anything on them you really care about.

Yeah that makes my 8700k look sweet JK...that looks fine.

Actually that's my setup...sata ssd for OS...NVMe for games...it does help in some games. The fact you have two drives means the bandwidth is greater. Meaning when your OS is making calls/updates to your sata ssd...it's not competing with calls/reads/writes to the gaming NVMe. As for gaming performance...i know it's a tad faster with NVMe, but not mind blowing...only in certain scenarios can you see/feel the delta. That said why not give your rig every leg up. Just for giggles try installing Win10 on your NVMe too...dual boot if you will. Then boot up on your old sata ssd...run crystal disk mark on both drives. Then boot up your Win10 on the NVMe...run crystal disk mark on both drives. What do you get ? You likely will find that the OS drive always performs a tad less when compared to the non-OS physical drive...cause the OS drive always has OS reads/writes being performed in addition to any application/games being run. Not sure if I've had enough coffee to type this coherently.

what methods of connection does ur soundbar have ? 3.5mm jack input ? You can get a spliter for ur monitor's 3.5mm output. They sale them at bestbuy for < $10. Have one from when I wanted to connect my powered sub and 2 monitors to my display's 3.5mm out...worked well enough.

Does your monitor have an audio jack ? I'd try plugging your speakers into it...which the monitor itself should be pumping out audio from what it receives thru the HDMI input...

Wait for the AMD monster card...

Yeah my dyslexia is in full effect...thought you were asking how much you could sell the system for this whole time.

My 2nd recommendation is an Eloktronics THINN-15 with AMD 4800H....if you buy without OS (assuming you already own a copy of Microsoft 10)...you can get for $889.00 with 16gb of ram and 512gb NVMe....and a 94wh battery....it's a 15.6" 1920x1080 display...it's the bomb...link below. If you have your own laptop ram and a spare NVMe laying around you can get it for $789.00. https://www.eluktronics.com/THINN-15

Don't be dismayed by soldered ram...just buy enough up front...ie 16gb and you are good to go. That said I "think" there's an empty ram slot on all the ideapads...meaning you can add additional ram...

I'd get a Lenovo Ideapad...the highest spec model for $800 will do anything under the sun a loan officer is required to do. Be certain the model you choose has a 1920x1080 display...and at least 8gb of ram...16gb is better though. If you bide your time and look for a sale...you might even find it with the AMD 4700u processor. Personally I'm waiting for the Lenovo YOGA Slim 7 with 4800u...but it will be at least $900 when it arrives in the USA Below link is the Lenovo Ideapad 5 with 4700u...currently listed at $899.99, but if you are patient you can get it for less...I've seen it on sale for $699.99 on Target's website at one time. https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/ideapad-700-series/IdeaPad-Slim-7-14ARE05/p/82A50000US