lemeh

Did you get the new CPU? Are you rocking your new rig now?

Ok ... who the hell let Murphy loose again? Keep us posted and hope everything turns out well with the new CPU!

Sorry to hear that. In my opinion then we could only try to swap out the motherboard. Is it possible for you to get a different motherboard? Doesn't have to be a new one but should be working out of the box with Ryzen 3000 / Matisse. Alternatively / additionally I would check with Gigabyte if you've not already done so. Also do try to use bare minimum of peripherals / devices for booting, e.g. no drives required. I kind of doubt it's connected but it also doesn't cost anything to try.

The cause for your PC not posting is most likely either RAM, MB or CPU - I think that's fair to say. I have not found anything for Ryzen 3000 manufacturing issues or high RMA rates, which leads me to believe that the CPU / memory controller should be fine (unless bent Pins). My bet, and as you have already mentioned, would be the motherboard respectively it not liking the RAM. Getting some basic QVL would allow us to definitely rule out the RAM imo., maybe also get a different brand (I've only got limited experience with Corsair stuff but none of which have been great). Apparently on some Asus motherboards the memory does not get assigned enough Voltage on start-up for OC-RAM. As a side-note: My motherboard is quite unhappy with the memory I have as well (not on the QVL) and also goes into the no-post reboot cycles when I exceed DRR3600 (the kit is rated for DDR4000, loading the XMP profile also causes it to be not able to post). Usually after 10 cycles or so it would, however, reset itself to a "safe" setting and allow me to enter the Bios/EFI. Have you tried letting it do its thing for a couple of minutes?

What about Backup Bios / Single Bios? When pushing the clear CMOS button, was there power supplied to the board / psu? Any other base RAM you can find / try / borrow?

such black ... much wow ... must ... resist .... oh who am I kidding

Since you are also considering custom looping your rig you seem to be confident in doing the cooler swaps. Another option then could be changing the gpu cooler. Some time ago I had done that with a product from Arctic (Cooling) and was quite happy bang / buck wise. Look for their line of ARCTIC Accelero Xtreme coolers. Their support site claims them to be generally compatible e.g. https://support.arctic.ac/index.php?p=ax3&doc=techspec&lang=en Maybe you can get a deal on one of those? Damn ... looking at the available stuff over here it seems that that whole market segment is basically arctic only now.

Have you tried booting with a single stick? Is there a bit of plastic/clear foil type of thing disconnecting the Bios battery? What are your SB(shadow Bios) and Bios-switches set to? My X570 Aorus xtreme seems to work best with Main BIOS / Single BIOS set. A clear CMOS may also help afterwards.

Kilrah's right and that's exactly why I won't be doing that. All I want from this PC is the multi-channel high-def audio, no video required (on this build ;))

Hey y´all so I recently switched out my old PC (2500k) for something new. While re-connecting all my peripherals I came across the TOSLINK cable that I had previously used to pass audio from the PC to the AVR, to which I have connected my sound system. I had obviously forgotten about why, 7 years ago, I went that particular route of getting the audio to the AVR, instead of using the videocard´s HDMI output. Now that I am running things over HDMI I can´t believe that, even after nearly a decade (there are posts on that topic in audiophile forums way back), there are still issues with that. But first of all: what´s the huge deal with using HDMI instead of TOSLINK? TOSLINK, for me, has two major downsides: 1. it uses optical cables that you really need to be careful with 2. it has limited bandwidth thus restricting the channels and/or the quality of the audio (no DTS-HD Master Audio *sadface*) With HDMI being the newer (and evolving) standard, it supports higher definition audio on more channels in parallel, while on a more robust cable. So this once again seemed like the way to go. Now what´s the issue then with running HDMI audio to the AVR? Going from starting your PC to actually running, the first issue you´ll encounter is that, if your AVR is running during booting of your PC and your actual monitor is on DisplayPort, the HDMI output is prioritized and you´ll get no video output to your monitor. So don´t turn on your AVR before your Windows is loaded up. Second the AVR is detected as a second display inside of Windows, but without an output, you can get your mouse stuck off-screen with no way to recover it. The go-to solution was to stick that display to one corner in your display settings ... But thanks to a previous video on LTT (thanks Linus/LTT) there is a way around that now by using the Dual Monitor Tools Just put that setting on "Lock Cursor onto screen" and make sure it is set to start during Windows start-up. The third issue is that the second screen should be configured with the same refresh rate as the primary one. Typically this would be an issue if you are running a high-refresh rate (freesync/g-sync) monitor. What you´ll then want to do is creating a custom resolution with the refresh rate set to the max. refresh rate of your monitor, or otherwise things - windows animations at least - will get choppy. I have not tried if there´s any impact on gaming as I am typically gaming with headsets on. Below shows my setting on the nvidia control panel. Radeon users will surely have something similar in their drivers. Now the fourth and worst issue with running a setup like this that I can not work around is the power consumption of the video card. There are places on the internet where this is talked about and apparently this was resolved years ago .. but for me, now, with current and little bit older drivers, the step-up in power consumption of the videocard is not acceptable when running the AVR. (provided of course that HWinfo does show accurate values). Apparently this was just a display issue in HWinfo where it showed ~60 Watts idle with the AVR on vs 16 Watts idle without the AVR. Now it is at ~24 Watts idle and only jumps to 60 Watts when turning on / off the AVR. Has anybody experience with the same? Do you have any additional tips? Do you have a more elegant solution to split out the high-def audio as compared to a hdmi audio de-embedder or PIN19 hack, so as to completely bypass the unnecessary video gubbins? Greetings lemeh