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About Robi_g

  • Title
  • Birthday 1996-07-26

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    UK (the south)
  • Occupation
    Electronic Engineer


  • CPU
    R5 2600
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450A-Pro
  • RAM
    16GB GSkill 3200MHz
  • GPU
    Zotac AMP! GTX1060 6GB
  • Case
    Bitfenix Neos
  • Storage
    500GB 970evo, 3TB WD green, 4TB NAS
  • PSU
    BeQuiet Pure Power 10 500W
  • Display(s)
    Dell U2414H + some other dell
  • Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 3 or CM QuickFire TK
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 / Ubuntu / Windows 7
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

653 profile views
  1. Just build a new Ryzen system, and the plan was to have Windows 10 on an M2 SSD, then (as half-novelty / half-actually-useful) Windows 7, XP, and Ubuntu on an old 500GB hard drive for when I wanted to run old / otherwise incompatible with W10 software. So Windows 10's running just fine, but I've given up with everything else (mostly, I'm ashamed to say, through lack of trying). The XP Journey BSOD for ACPI support, but you can skip that. Another BSOD due to windows XP being too old to include AHCI drivers, and the motherboard being too new to support ATA mode. Read about loading drivers with a floppy drive (but only a floppy drive, not a USB floppy drive), and installing via USB with Windows Server 2003, but couldn't be bothered. I'm never going to actually use XP anyway. 0/1 The Windows 7 Journey Ryzen USB drivers aren't compatible with Windows 7 because Windows 7's so old (I'd forgotten that Windows 8 was released 6 years ago!). I do have a PS/2 keyboard to get things going, but it's 150 miles away (my words 2 months ago of "when am I ever going to need this again?" rang loud and clear in my head) Read an Anandtech article on unattended booting, but again, I couldn't be bothered. I have windows 7 on a laptop so I'm only losing some performance by not having it on the new desktop. And anyway, I'll just wait until I'm home at Christmas and grab the keyboard then. 0/2 The Ubuntu (15.04) Journey A load of error messages came up, I didn't read them. Changed some bios security things because that's always the problem with these kind of things. Nope. Same errors came up. I've been working on this for too long. Screw this, who needs Linux anyway?.... 0/3 Guess it's going to be an old Dell Optiplex that becomes the 'it won't run in W10' PC instead
  2. Robi_g

    How Does PWM Work?

    That's why I said shottkey diode across the transistor, where its lower breakdown voltage would allow current through it when reversed biased hard enough. I'm aware that It's called an h-bridge, and I also know that there's 'more to it than that' (I have a Masters in Electronic Engineering and work as an electronic engineer). I was trying to reduce the amount of fluff around my answers for the OP, to save them going down the rabbit hole of learning everything about everything. It would be a bit of a baptism of fire to ask how PWM works and end up with some huge glut of jargon. I'm not saying you can't do things your way, quite the opposite, I completely agree with you on that. But I'm also saying that you can stick a diode with low breakdown voltage across the transistor to protect it. The method you're pushing is probably better, as you're not injecting a load of current into the ground plane (although that's what capacitors across the supply are for I guess), but it's wrong to say that the other method just flat out won't work (unless you use a regular diode, then it won't work for the reason you stated). Again, I have seen working circuits that use either method. Also, diodes in regulators is a different use case. You can use diodes to create voltage references too, but that's got nothing to do with motors.
  3. I'd save the money on the AIO cooler and spend that on the GPU instead
  4. Robi_g

    First Build Gone Wrong Thrice (Macbook Killer)

    Wow, such a journey, glad it worked out for you in the end.
  5. Robi_g

    How Does PWM Work?

    You can do either, I've seen circuits with both. Across the transistor allows you to run the motor either direction (with some extra transistors etc...) if you just stuck it across the motor you could only go in one direction. In the end, all you're looking to do is protect the rest of the circuit from the motor.
  6. Robi_g

    Getting Back into Building Build

    All in, £952.97, RAM prices are ridiculous, and I overpaid for the semi-modular PSU over the non-modular version. Going to be upgrading the NAS soon too, from a 3TB WD Green, to a couple of 4TB WD Reds.
  7. Because Who Uses Serial Ports and Floppy Drives in 2018? So the last PC I build was back in 2012 (i5 3570k, HD6870, 8GB 1600MHz, a 60GB SSD (that cost £60!)). Since then I've sold it, bought a laptop, and used that for a little over 4 years. But FPGA design synthesis and Lightroom / DaVinci Resolve are taking annoying amounts of time, and I'd quite like to get back into gaming too (gt 730m doesn't cut it outside of 720p low). So here's the log of my new build! Parts List: Ryzen 2600 16GB 3200MHz GSkill Trident-Z Zotac AMP! 1060 6gb MSI B450-A Pro Bitfenix Nova bequiet purepower 10 500W 2x Corsair ML120 fans Samsung 970 Evo 500GB DVD drive, 300Mbps N card FD-CR8 Floppy & Card Reader (with some mixing/matching of other parts) Serial and parrallel port headers The Build: So the cheap case was picked for 4 reasons It's cheap More money to spend on decent fans It's about as compact as an ATX case can get No-window or top fan spaces = more space to stick sound damping material (this thing is going to be silent). Building in it wasn't the easiest job in the world, but it was far from horrible. Below are some quirks... Slight oddity in 8-pin connection routing (I guess to cut down on the height of the case). This tab needs bending out the way with a PSU gasket installed. Fans are mounted to a plastic bracket (that includes a filter) instead of the front facia as with a lot of cheap cases. The same goes with the front I/O, so cabling can be kept tight without having to worry about removing the front. Easy to remove fan filter on a cheap case too. The case market has moved on a lot since 2012 (but backwards in some places). The stuff in the front bays doesn't line up flush with the front panel for instance (how do you mess that up!?). Speaking of moving backwards, it was so difficult to find a reasonable looking case with two 5.25" front bays. I need a card reader for camera work, a DVD drive is useful to have to hand too. Why is that so much to ask? Gratuitous bokeh. Front panel also has foam filter (non-removable) along with the fan filter/bracket. Motherboard installed, cable space was a bit tight around the back, but everything fit without bulging. Will have to paint the DVD drive at some point. Drive bays don't allow the best airflow but whatever, I can always cut some material out if it's an actual problem. The MSI B450-A pro was chosen because it literally does everything! Plenty of SATA and rear USB, enough internal USB and fan headers, and plentiful and well-placed PCIe slots. I've read they don't have the same VRM cooling issues that Gigabyte boards have had recently too. And last but not least, the board has parrallel and serial port headers, saving £12 on a PCIe card providing the same thing. I'm not fussed about the parrallel port, but serial ports come in handy interfacing with multimeters and other lab equipment, and RS232 is quick to get up and running on a microcontroller or FPGA, instead of the age it takes for USB. And because serial wasn't enough of a throwback, here's a floppy drive. For backups of single files, floppy discs are so convenient and hard to lose. The one I ordered from eBay had a USB card reader, but a ribbon floppy drive! Luckily the drive was an exact physical match to an external USB floppy drive I had, just disassembled the two, swapped the drives, and voila! I now have all the front panel I/O I could ever wish for. Other parts are arriving soon, so update will be coming soon too.
  8. Robi_g

    How Does PWM Work?

    The average voltage being applied to the motor is what changes with duty cycle. So at 50% duty you're applying 0V half the time, and 'some volts' on the other half. The whole thing with PWM is that if you switch fast enough the fluctuations in voltage don't matter. PWM is so great because of its efficiency (transistors draw very little current when fully on or fully off, but draw more when they're 'sort-of' on. PWM only operates in the former two states (except for a tiny period during the transition from 0-Vcc)), and ease of implementation without DACs (you save on hardware and I/O!). You can also start the motor more smoothly because (janky explanation incoming) the pulses overcome the motor inertia better than a DC signal of the same average voltage would. Drawbacks include 'pitting' of the motor core over time if the motor wasn't designed for use with PWM (don't worry about that though, it was just FYI). At the speeds a motor PWM signal would run at you don't need to worry about rise/fall times of the transistor. What you do need to worry about is back EMF and noise from the motor damaging the power transistor and the output of the microcontroller. So wire a reverse biased shottkey diode between collector and emmiter, another between the output of the microcontroller and ground, and some capacitors around the motor terminals. Stick a current limiting resistor in series with the microcontroller output and transistor base too. You also need to wire the motor in between the collector and power rail (instead of the emitter and ground) if you want to apply the power rail voltage to the motor (less the ~0.6V drop across the transistor). If you connect to the motor between ground and emitter, you'll only be applying the 3.3V coming out of the microcontroller. If you're using N-channel MOSFETS instead of NPN bipolars, the replace the following words in the above: * Collector --> Drain * Emitter --> Source * Base --> Gate Hope some of that was helpful.
  9. Robi_g

    where is the cmos here?

    Take the battery out, hold the power button down for a bit and then put the battery back in. Why do you need to clear the CMOS anyway?
  10. A slightly confusing post title I'll admit, but I'll explain here better. I've bought a 2nd hand laptop online, there's a user account on there already but I haven't got the password to it. The seller hasn't got back to me with any help (probably because he doesn't want to tell me his password). So I need to either gain access to this account, or create another without access to the full OS. There's no important (or otherwise) files on the disc so I'm not bothered about data loss. Is there some recovery option or some tool out there that will do it automatically? Thanks in advance
  11. Robi_g

    Hair falling out during shower?

    As someone who lived in a flat that had a shower that was constantly blocked up with people's hair, I can confirm that it's normal.
  12. Robi_g

    No video?

    There was a video this morning, but it must've been taken down since I watched it @matto97
  13. Just thought it should be, there's only The WAN show listed atm.
  14. Lenovo laptops tend to have good access to components
  15. Robi_g


    I've used them and can say they're reliable. The PCS+ stuff is very good value.