Chiyawa

Meh, they all are shady. They sometimes sell second grade product to many Asian market. One of the worst product the Asian market has is their DVD burner drive, which can eject without any intervention, failed prematurely, and of course out right deny RMAs. I don't trust them at all. Chip fabrication is good, but their electronic product, not so much.

I see. You and me both, I guess, as I like to keep using my laptop as long as it can. Problem is once it is obsolete, it IS obsolete. Can't do much, to be honest, even though they are still fully functional. The reason I don't recommend laptop of any kind to people unless they travel frequently. Make matter worse is that manufacturer soldered the CPU to the motherboard, unlike last time where you can swap the CPU out. My company still has a lot of Dell Latitude E6530 and I can replace to 3rd gen Core i7 mobile CPU for cheap (but I don't think it made much different between 3rd gen Core i5 and Core i7 mobile CPU because they only have different base speed unless you can find i7 QM variant).

I'm surprise he hasn't talk about Latte Panda. I know it's a different league than all the Pi since it uses x86-64 processor and more of a mini computer than tinker board, but it is technically an SBC worth to take into consideration.

You should not have any issue. SSD doesn't take a lot of power (maybe 5W maximum, but SATA SSD only uses 5V rail instead of 12V rail). RAM capacity should not affect power consumption and I believe they use 3.3V instead of 12V.

Probably (for the western world at least) most change their laptop within 3 years of usage.

Well, some of the items are quite good actually. The problem is you really have to search. There are some reputable sellers that provide good quality product at very competitive price, just like this laptop, which is not bad for the price it is asking in my opinion.

Short answer: Should be okay, if the 12V rail can provide at least 350W of power. Long answer: PSU is a critical component. Treat it like a nuclear power plant, because if anything goes wrong with it, it might surge the whole system and destroy everything (well, not the explosive type of damage, but many of your Voltage Regulator Module (VRM) will be damage, render the motherboard, GPU, CPU, etc. etc. unusable). But actually, for your system, it should work fine for a few years, or maybe last more than that, if it works, that is. Just to be sure about the risk you're going to have to take: - Cheap PSU is not suitable for power hungry component due to low transient tolerance (sudden high power draw) - Doesn't have a lot of protection (such as Over Voltage Protection or Over Current Protection) - May have coil-whine issues, especially when your usage almost reaching its peak output - Poor grounding - High ripple voltage that can reduce the life of your component - Cheap capacitors that can fail unexpectedly - Short warranty (usually only 3 months or 1 year, rarely more than 1 year warranty) - Low tolerance on maximum power output. - Chances of misleading label or false advertising (450W label, but only 330W 12V rail, and sometimes even lower in actual performance.)

Well, I prefer AMD, so most of my system are using AMD CPU. I've used: My very first PC: Athlon K8 (1997). It was a family PC. My second laptop: Turion 64 x2 (2010). Compaq CQ40 is not really that reliable, but still serve me well. It replace my first laptop and is fairly cheap at that time. My third laptop: A10 5750m (2013). It was MSI GX70 3BE, and my first gaming laptop. It replace my Compaq CQ40 that broke. One of my long lasting laptop. My current deaktop: Ryzen 5 3600 (2018). I built this PC as my ageing gaming laptop can't keep up the game. My current laptop: Ryzen 7 4700U (2019). It's a Lenovo Yoga 6 13ARE05. I bring it when travelling or outdoor. This also replace my Surface Pro 4. I do use Intel because Intel is pretty much dominant in Malaysia. My second PC: Pentium 4 desktop (2001). My dad need a PC so he bought a new one and make this the new family PC while he took the old family PC as his personal. My very first laptop: Pentium M laptop (2007). It was Dell Inspiron 6000 and my dad bought for me when I'm in college. My first tablet: 4th gen Core i5 U laptop (2016). It was Microsoft Surface Pro 4. I got it at a sales. Not using any more because the RAM is only 4GB and battery bloated.

Intel fired thousands of staffs to sponsor this?

Hmm... Okay, thanks for the advise. I'll look into it.

I see, but will the image degrade? I saw some prints degrade over time (some turned yellowish after 2 years). What should I look out for screenprinting?

My friend saw this demon slayer PC case (https://www.asus.com/us/motherboards-components/gaming-cases/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-gt301-demon-slayer-edition/) and got very excited. She asked me if she can get an Anya's from Spy X Family theme PC case. I couldn't find one actually (and I don't think any PC case manufacturer produce 1) so I'm thinking of going custom route. Anyway, before I go to custom road, I just want to get something straight: - I heard of acrylic printing but not glass printing. I wonder if it is possible for glass printing. - I wonder if vinyl sticker is a better option. I heard they can peeled of after a long time and leave sticky residue, and the colour can become dull over time. So I need some recommendation here. Should I go for vinyl sticker option or glass printing option? Or is there any other better option? Oh, forgot to include this: The PC case I'm going to work with is either Hyte Y60 or LianLi O11 Dynamic. Regards, Chiyawa

78c is, well, not ideal, but not bad actually. A repaste will only drop 2 or 3c, depending on your thermal paste, so I don't think it'll worth the hassle if you're not used to it. Is your fan spinning at maximum or full speed? One way to reduce your GPU temperature is to open your side panel. Another option is to increase airflow of your front fans. PC Case is also pretty important here, so without a clear picture, I can't pin point if we can make any improvement. But over all, You shouldn't worry if the temperature stay 78c and don't go any higher. Your GPU cooling is still adequate.

Gasp! Whoever deny this person will be in Santa's naughty list and get no present, because now he controls Santa Claus! Ha ha. I gotta admit, he got some creativity there.

Rule of thumb: "If it's too good to be true, then 99% of chances are: IT IS!" "There's a Chinese proverb saying there are no free lunch in this world." "The little gain you got means a multitude of suffering others have to endure." "No pain, no gain." These phrases are what makes me weary of these scams.

Hi, Just out of curiosity, is there a monitoring software for I/O ports, or to be more specific: Each USB ports (Be it USB-C, USB3.2 ports), including the transfer speed and utilisation? I'm wanted to know how well I utilising USB devices, because I seems to feel like my USB devices are bottlenecking when transfer a lot of data between them and my internal hard drives. While Windows Task Manager has good monitoring capability, but it only show drive utilisation and transfer speed, but not USB in general (such as what speed they are running, what device are attaching, USB port capabilities). And also, it doesn't have to be USB only, but Interconnected device such as SATA, NVMe, PCIe, and others. I know HWiNFO can do it, but I don't think they monitor the USB utilisation, they only tell you that the USB devices uses which protocol (such as USB 3.2 or USB 3.0) Regards, Chiyawa

Hmm, well, I'm not an audio engineer, but this is something I learned: Everyone has different preferences. Some like the bass, while some enjoys vocals. I will usually find headset or headphones with flat response so I can feel what the sound author intended. Sadly my ears are not perfect parallel as my right ear canal has smaller opening then my left ear, so I always felt the left side of any headphones to be louder than right side. In conclusion, you have to experience yourself to judge the headphone.

Agree. But for me, I usually offer half of my spoil to my sister. She has the best of the best usually while I get her stuff once she grew tired of it, so in the long run I would get the stuff in the end. Good old times. Now that she is working, she usually return the favour by giving me gifts even when I don't request it. 3 or 4 years ago She bought me a Nintendo Switch while I get her iPhone 12. To be fair, she paid half of the iPhone 12 and helps paying the telecom bill for 6 months. She even gets me Pokemon Brilliant Diamond recently.

So does mine, but, well, we learn to get along. I was still using Nokia 1600 when my sister bought her first iPhone 4.

Huh, how much power does RTX 4090 Ti use? I mean, with that massive cooling, I wouldn't be surprise if this thing can chug down 750W in burst mode.

A lot of things could go wrong, so this is very much difficult to pin point the exact problem. Like @aledsav1said, the quickest (fastest) way to determine is to test the GPU in another system to see if the symptom persist. You might want to check your GPU hotspot (or junction temperature) rather than your GPU temperature. If your hotspot temperature is greater than 20c from your GPU temperature, then you might want to repaste your GPU with good thermal paste. Anyway, how do you connect your PCIe power cable from your PSU to your GPU? Your PSU using multi-rail 12V output, so you might want to double confirm. Check this manual to know where the 12V rail distribution goes: https://www.enermax.com/en/products/file/2/T2JMtVAcz7 You can check your event viewer to see if Windows manage to captured the fatal error message before it restart. From the error message, maybe you can trace where the fault is coming from.

Short answer: No, with an asterisk. Long answer: Wi-Fi is a complicated matter. Done right and you should have no issue, saving you the hassle of dragging the Ethernet cable from your switch or router to your PC and you can just connect from anywhere. But, to achieve this is far more difficult. Also, that doesn't include if there's problem between your device, as sometimes, your PC might refuse to connect. Wi-Fi is pretty much way convenient if your signal is good, but ideally you should not have any obstruction between your wireless access point and your antenna. If your PC is located in your bedroom and your switch is at your living room, You might get a good coverage, but if there are too many interference of the signal such as signal reflected by wall, you'll have a hard time troubleshooting your Wi-Fi because there can be errors communicating (checksum error, data drop). However, we all can't judge because we don't know your environment. So unfortunately, you have to check and see if your connection is stable enough. And even if it is stable, whether your ping is good or bad will be another factor. For my case: I use my mobile phone hotspot, so my PC is connected to it using Wi-Fi. My phone is very close to my PC, so the Wi-Fi signal I get is very good. I play Genshin Impact, and since I'm in Malaysia, I play using Asia Server. My ping is about 174ms average. My house is landed property and usually there are not many devices in my area (including my neighbour) using Wi-Fi, so there are virtually no signal congestion or Wi-Fi devices fighting for bandwidths. But, when I visit at my sister's house in her condominium, I always get signal drop even my PC is just a few feet from her wireless access point. When I check, there are about 60 Wi-Fi enabled devices in range and about 14 SSID detected. So, there are a lot of interference and my connection is not stable, even using Wi-Fi AC or Wi-Fi AX, same result happens.

I see. Well, depends on how near you are from your monitor. My ideal setup would be 32 inch. I'm currently having 29 inch ultra wide monitor.

Well, Panasonic TVs are not very straight forward when it comes to setting, but they are quite good if you know where to look for. My sister has 1 65 inch one, but not sure why it didn't play nice with her PC even with all enhancement disable and mode set to PC (maybe I'm not good at setting nVidia display) but my system with Radeon Vega 64 works flawlessly.

Indeed, for someone like me who can't differentiate faces apart, He looks quite close. The beard is the one I can recognise, but beard can be change from time to time, so they're not really the definite trait to look for.