DVAlt

Yes I have done that to no avail. But after doing some more digging on settings it looks like the way the display interface is wired on my laptop is through the integrated graphics, even on the Mini DisplayPort and someway somehow the intel integrated graphics can't reroute more framerates. So I guess the moral of the story is that cheap gaming laptop can't really be used as a desktop replacement for gaming, since they usually don't have a MUX switch. But I appreciate the reply nonetheless.

Hi everyone, I recently just bought an external monitor to be use mainly for gaming since my laptop's display is only capable of displaying content at 60 Hz. The monitor is capable of running at 165 Hz and I have change the settings on windows settings to let it run at it max refresh rates. I even doublechecked on the monitor's OSD that it is indeed running at 165 Hz in desktop. However, when I'm playing games the fps seems to be capped at 60 Hz on the monitor when I take a peek at the OSD even though my laptop is capable of delivering higher refresh rates. I also can't find the monitor settings on NVIDIA Control Panel for some reason and the display adapter in windows settings for the monitor is only connected to the integrated graphics. I have looked at several forums but I'm getting mixed answers. Is there a way to free the frames?

Interesting, thanks for the info. Unfortunately though, I can't really find it here in my country But, hey, if there's anyone looking for a long-lasting thermal paste they can check it out. The listed specification is pretty darn good as well, though I haven't found many reviews of it yet.

If you google "msi laptop ec reset" or something similar, there would be several versions on how to reset the EC but in this case there should be a little hole on the bottom of your laptop near the LED indicator, you should turn your laptop off and press the button under the hole using a safety pin (or something similar) for about 30 seconds if I remember correctly. In my case, there's a problem with the keyboard that necessitate a replacement so I send my laptop to their service center.

Have you tried resetting the EC? I have an MSI laptop from the same generation and the keyboard broke literally weeks after purchase and I had to send it for replacement.

That is some pretty good temps in my opinion. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I don't get why you'd want to handicapped your performance, but it's normal for modern CPUs to run at a pretty high clock speed (compared to old CPUs of yesteryear) even when there's little to no load at all. What you should be concerned is if your CPU runs hot even when there's no load. Since you're using a laptop, put it in power saving mode, it would usually limit the CPU while maintaining usable experience anyway.

How's your experience on the performance over time? I read some forums where people said that they have "sudden" performance degradation after a few months. To be fair, I am expecting some degradation in performance over time but I hope that it won't be bad enough to get my CPU thermal throttling. Also, thanks for the tip on the TIM application.

If the device itself is okay, then what I would do is try cleaning the 3.5mm port (and the jack itself while I'm at it) and it the problem still persist I would try some weird things like rotating the jack inside the port or put some pressure on the jack itself (or put the jack sort of "loosely" inside the port) but that's the extend of my experience, sorry if I'm not much of help

Have you tried troubleshooting it using other 3.5mm devices? In my experience, it's usually the device that's broken (something with the cable and the jack itself) instead of the port

Hi everyone, I'm running a 3 year-old laptop (MSI GL62, 7700HQ & GTX 1050) and I've been experiencing high temperature on my CPU at over 94 degree Celsius (it used to be around 90 degree Celsius at max but it usually stayed around 84 degree Celsius under load). I've been thinking of repasting it but not quite sure of what to get. I want to get a thermal paste that will do me a solid for at least 2 years since I'm planning to build a desktop but still in the saving up process (LOL). I don't mind getting an "okay-performance" thermal paste because I'm sure it would at least be better than whatever it is on top of my CPU right now. I've done a little bit of research and most people recommend Arctic MX4 or Noctua NT-H1 for their longevity and good performance but I'm open to any suggestion because I know not much people care enough to try a lot of brands and models of thermal paste, I just wanna hear your experience on whatever you've tried before. I live in a country where there is few of computer enthusiasts, so I don't exactly have a lot of options from a trusted retailer (better safe than getting an old thermal paste, right?). I've narrowed down my options to those that have the best performance according to what a lot of articles (and some people) said which is: - Noctua NT-H2 - Cooler Master MasterGel Maker - Arctic MX4 - Noctua NT-H1 - Cooler Master MasterGel Pro V2 I put this in order from the most expensive (which is just over 13 USD) but really, I don't mind any of these options' cost. Oh, and one more thing, is there any recommended method to apply the thermal paste on a laptop since I knew it doesn't really matter in a consumer desktop? Thanks

I see, but after doing a little digging on some forums, I come across some argument that the difference is either not much or just outright don't matter for the average Joe. I don't know how much truth that holds but, say for this LG 27GL650F, I've read the reviews of it saying it has decent color out of the box that could be calibrated for a much better result, so is the difference "irl" negatable? Because to be honest, the closest thing I could find is Asus VG249Q and even that comes with 6 bits + FRC panel. I live in SEA and sadly there's not much of options here :< might just go and buy either of those monitors because the reviews have been pretty good so far.

I'm currently using my laptop's (MSI GL62M 7RDX) display and for the longest time it did good enough (more like better than nothing) for gaming, albeit a tad bit darker for my preference. Even though it have served me well, I've been planning on building a PC sometime next year and while I'm at it, might as well get a better monitor for now. My use case is mainly watching movies and gaming with photo editing and illustration as a hobby, oh and video editing whenever my teacher(s) needs entertainment at the end of semester. I've been eyeing on LG 27GL650F for a while and while the reviews have been pretty good, I was surprised when I found out that it comes with a 6 bits panel with FRC. I've heard in the past that it's better to get a native 8 bits panel rather than 6 bits with FRC, but is it true? And while I'm at it, I'm also looking for a recommendation around the same price as LG 27GL650F, give or take. Thanks!

I couldn't more agree on how cumbersome G502's cable is, but I think I'm just gonna save up the money to get the new Basilisk Ultimate, which I much prefer the shape of rather than Lancehead.

Thanks for confirming, I might just get the TE then. This is "just a stopgap" after all. I should probably just save my money instead to get Basilisk in the future since the shape is right up my alley. Thanks again!

I see, did your cable ever got kinky? my G502 got kinky after a while because I just jammed it into one of those mice pouch in a laptop backpack and it gets in the way when I played FPS since the kink is actually closer to the mice itself.

A little bit of backstory, my G502 HERO just broke (smh Logitech) and it could apparently took 2 months to replace it because they had changed their distributor in my country (like ffs around this time, really!?) so I'm looking for a replacement, at least for the time being since I really love G502's ergonomics. After a little bit of googling people points out that Razer is the way to go. Currently there's a sale going on in my store where I usually get my peripherals. The Lancehead wired is on sale at 25 USD while the wireless is just under 50 USD, it comes with no warranty though. Right now, I just can't pick which way to go; wireless sounds nice since my setup is a bit of a rat's nest, but at least I don't need to charge the wired one. One last thing here is that I have a bit of an issue with my G502's wire where it gets a bit kinky, my friend says that it's not a problem with his Lancehead TE though, but I do get a bit rough with my mice sometimes when transporting it. ._.

I'm pretty sure it's not because of the RAM. But my system originally came with only single 4GB stick, but when I bought it there's a promotion thing that upgrade my RAM to 8GB. But there's a catch, the other RAM stick doesn't match the original. Either way my system was running fine until now and I'm pretty sure this problem couldn't be caused by a mismatch RAM stick (to be fair they have "similar" specs as far as capacity and frequency goes) Update: I just put the other RAM stick in and it boots up, definitely something to do with CMOS reset thing

Okay so I did do EC reset procedure (not sure if it's the same as CMOS reset here. Grab one of the RAM out, then plug it in for a bit and now it's back on. I don't know what works, but thanks.

No, I didn't mess around with the heatsink. Other than cleaning the fans, I just put the RAM, SSD and HDD out and then put them back where they belong.

So my laptop (MSI GL62M 7RDX) is just out of warranty. Since it was running quite hot, I took the liberty and pop it open to clean the fans (and messing around a bit with the RAM and storage since I'm gonna upgrade both soon, I make sure I put them back in correctly tho) but when I powered it back on it just won't display a thing. The keyboard lights up but the display just won't turn on (maybe I damaged the display cable?). Had to do sanity check so I plug in HDMI cable to my TV and it still won't display anything. My wild guess is that somehow I bricked it by messing with the EC button (don't know if it's possible though). Not sure what happened. Help.

I'm currently using Logitech G102 and while it's been serving me good, I have big hands and it's a bit too light for me when playing FPS, also I kinda want more buttons on my mice ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) After some thoughts and little hands-on (but haven't try playing with any of them), I come up with 3 choices: G502 HERO, Mamba Elite, and Basilisk. Based on my little experience, I don't think I'm gonna have problems with the shape of those three, though I'm concerned with G502 due to the amount of buttons that thing have. G502: let me get this first, I *really* love the scroll wheel of this mice and there's nothing quite like it out there (except other Logitech mice lol) and because I'm a lazy-ass person I use a lot of macro buttons/shortcut keys/etc. plus this thing is the cheapest of the bunch makes it hard to pass. But what makes it hard is the software, which could be better in a lot of ways, and the weight of it. I know I said that my G102 is a bit too light to my liking but this thing is so heavy I'm probably in for one helluva learning curve lol. Mamba Elite: I like the ergonomics of this mice, it's got plenty of buttons, and it's got good looks as well (hard to pass on good looks xD) but this being the most expensive of the bunch while me being a cheapskate that I am really discourage me from buying this mice. also the scroll wheel doesn't came close to the G502 lol Basilisk: while it's got the fewest buttons of the bunch, it should be sufficient. it's got something with the scroll wheel but idk how good it is compared to G502 (not even close based on my experience but then again it was just a quick hands-on) and with price tag easier to swallow for me compared to Mamba Elite, it's really hard to pass on this one. I think the learning curve with the weight wouldn't be as drastic as G502. and it might just be my opinion but a successor of this mouse is bound to come out soon since this thing is around 2 yo already (?). My friends have been telling me to stay away from just about all Razer products but judging from what I want it really come down to those three (I was swayed by Steelseries Rival 600 but turne off by the price). Oh and maybe other things that most people don't get is that Razer is not officially operate in my country, well it did but from some sort of 3rd party so there's gotta be a price hike and based on my experience the aftermarket service with them are absolute nightmare comparing on how much money I spend on their products (as a high-schooler that amount hurts) Anyways sorry for the wall of texts I just need some help on deciding which mice to get, or of there's any other good alternatives, I'm all ears! (or rather eyes lol)

Actually, I think I'm gonna go with 2x8 since I don't see the need to go with 32GB of RAM and future-proofing a laptop is not really worth it (lol) because mine just come with entry-level graphics card anyway *cries*

Now that RAM prices are dropping, I think it's a good time to upgrade my rig (a "gaming" laptop running 2x4GB of RAM). Which is fine, it's just that for some reason there's a lot of stuff running on background, not counting a few "gaming" related software for my peripherals etc. So I did a quick research and found out that there's a couple of pretty good deal for 1x16GB and 2x8GB RAM stick (the price difference is only around 3 bucks or so if after converted to USD with the single 16GB stick being cheaper, which is insignificant). But now I'm not sure on which one to get, a single 16GB stick that is cheaper and easier to upgrade if I, for some reason, wanted to go balls to the wall and get it to 32GB or get the 2x8GB kit one so that I get dual-channel memory, with the pros that while it's technically a bit more expensive, I don't mind it. But what I'm concerned is if I ever want to upgrade it, because based on my current situation it's a huge pain having to get another kit rather than just adding another stick to the slots. Now, I doubt I'll ever need to upgrade to 32GB of RAM through the course of using my current laptop, but then again how much better is dual-channel memory than a single-channel one? because all I do is opening tons of tabs in chrome and playing games with some photo editing (or rather digital drawing, I guess) and video rendering on the side.