kitnoman

GPU and PSU all the way. Or just get a the highest GPU your budget can afford. 600w would still be plenty, just do undervolt both gpu and cpu, for stability. That motherboard is decent even for a b520. 5800x is still decent and won't bottleneck current mid range gpus specially at higher resolutions. PSU is decent and you can still work around your way around it. Ram, 3600mhz is the sweet spot for 5000 series, but improvement is minute. It would probably better if you just try to tighten the timings and/or try to oc the ram.

You probably just want Ryzen for future upgrade. However for streaming, as of right now your best option is probably a 13700k. But there's no upgrade path with it, since every cpu that's faster than 13700k has the on going issue. As you are not going to play FPS games, you probably don't need 7800x3d(yet), but you do need the cores and threads so you can't get ryzen 5. As for the GPU, if you are thinking of anything streaming. Sad to say, but going nvidia probably solve half the issues that you might encounter. Also between $100-200, better get 16gb vram now. If you are just starting with steaming, you really don't need the highest end, but if you can already get 16gb vs 12gb vram gpu, get the former. As games that needs more vram has already started and would probably be common with the new games that would be coming out. while the case is the cheapest one that already comes with 4fans. I have a neighbor who streams Dota 2 with a decent income(at least that's what he told me since it's the only thing he does), but he still only uses a 3070 card. Honestly, if you have a limited budget, I would probably downgrade the cpu and gpu and probably invest at least $150-$200 for a good mic and acceptable camera. For your mice, you can try Keychron M1 Wireless Mouse. Decent and punch above it's price point. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($281.63 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B650 LiveMixer ATX AM5 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($87.39 @ Amazon) Storage: Corsair MP600 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($108.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Zotac GAMING Trinity GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($779.99 @ Newegg) Case: Deepcool CC560 V2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.00 @ MSI) Total: $1585.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-06 04:22 EDT-0400

As mentioned by the first two before me, I doubt you need a new psu. Unless, your current one has any issue that is. My concern is you saying you have a "crappy case with poor airflow." Because the only razor lian li case I know is the O11(unless there's more). And that's a decent case. I had the regular O11 dynamic and my setup was, bottom and side are intake fans, while top is a 360mm aio rad as exhaust. I also added a small 80mm at the rear after watching a video of someone putting two 80mm fans there. Personally to equalized intake and exhaust, I would use a 2500-3000rpm fans on the Radiator and set it up so that it would run 50-60% fan speed on average and would speed to around 70-80% when cpu/gpu temps hit 85c. While the intakes(bottom and side) would be setup to spin in a much slower phase(like a max of 2000rpm fans). So that even if there's 6 of them, it would only be slightly positive pressure. But with this, you might need a really good fans, like the phanteks t30 or thermaltake toughfan turbo and not just a branded expensive RGB fans(as these only adds FPS and not cooling compared to their non rgb counterparts).

If those are new, that's actually a decent build already. If I'm going to nitpick on it, I would probably replaced that PSU and if you still have a few more $, get the dual tower air cooler. PCPartPicker Part List CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair CX (2023) 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg) Total: $93.89 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-03 05:49 EDT-0400

Probably start with this specs and get a used 6600/6600xt. For used CPUs, just don't get any I3s, but get a cpu that's around 12th gen or ryzen 5500(3600) as minimum. Both will have decent upgrade path, as you can get up to 5800x3d or 14th gen cpu for another upgrade that would get you decent uplift in performance. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5500 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($98.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($33.97 @ Amazon) Storage: TEAMGROUP MP33 512 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($36.99 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks XT PRO ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart 600 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($40.99 @ Amazon) Total: $384.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-29 05:23 EDT-0400

The science behind it was that the "first" time it got wet, drained the battery or the moisture detection sensor prevents it(if it has one). Which is why it won't turn on. What you should have done is to let it dry, like buy a pack or rice and put it there for a day or two. What killed it is when you tried to charge it while it's still wet. That goes with any appliances or even computer, that shuts off after being wet. If you dry it properly before trying again, there's still a possibility that it would still work. Plugging a wet device would fry it's circuits.

How long did you wait? when you say boot/vga red light, are they cycling? Meaning it changes from boot to vga to ram or are they solid light on one or both of them? Because it's a ryzen, I should expected that you googled this already, but just to be sure, there are times that it would take a long time for the first boot. Lastly, just to be sure(again), is the hdmi/DP connected to the back of the motherboard or the gpu?

It's never about if it's possible. It's a PC component, it's even possible to pair things that's not available on desktop. Remember those ryzen 7 6800u handheld pc/laptops? Those are zen3 but has ddr5 rams. While desktop zen3 like 5000 series motherboards are only paired with ddr4. So it's never a matter of if it's possible, it's a matter if there's anyone want's to do it and will they do it. The question "does it make sense for laptop companies to make Arc/Ryzen laptops" is also not right, it's not wrong, but it's not right. The reason why we see ryzen/nvidia laptops is because nvidia is pushing and actively contracting laptop makers and vise-versa. It's not about not or being possible, it's about intel wanting and doing it. There was also no market for handheld pc just a few years ago until someone made a market for it.

Lanes are just "cords and cables," essentially pathways so data can travel from A to B. Each generation, 1.0 to 5., have different speed speed, which increasing per generation. so basically, the more lanes and higher gen, the faster data can be send. So what limits motherboard makers from adding more lanes? Several, the first being market segmentation and marketing. Simply put, they just have to make a board with lower end specs so that the higher end would be appealing. But why the high end still have a limit? Well that's because it is also tied to chipset design and architecture limitations. So they most work within the confines of the CPU/GPU' pcie allocations. Then you add size and layout on the pcb and lastly of course, is cost, adding more lanes means more controllers and switches. How much it would cost per motherboard if they add more separates lanes, switches and controllers, I don't know. But's one of the reason why you see in most motherboards, when you use all the NVME slot, either a pcie x4 or x1 or sata is disabled, since they are sharing lanes. Hope this answers some of your questions.

A few things you can try: 1 try to scroll down to check if the old E drive is still listed and remove it. 2 Boot in safe mode and try again. 3 check your registry and edit or delete it from there. But I forget path, just google it. 4 It might have been associated with removable drives, try removing and/or inserting usb drives to confirm. 5 Try to rebuild the bcd(again google for the steps).

The last time I saw 6 I/O port on a gaming GPU was on 30 series cards. I believe it was on some highend gigabyte aurus cards. On 40 series, the most I've seen are 5 and that's on the expensive Asus ROG gpus. Other than that, you would probably be looking at pro cards.

Here's the gist of it. Almost every mice that has pixart 3395 sensor are at least around,more or less, $100usd. While almost all mice that have the same features, like the tri-connection are above $100usd(near $150-200). So specs and features, it's punching up and not necessarily losing. The brand itself is a solid, just not known for mice.

Personally, I think this is a decent mouse, Keychron M1 Wireless. It has a decent censor, two receivers(regular usb and usb c), can connect via wireless receiver, bluetooth and wired connection. Lastly it's $45.

Honestly, I would just buy a key from a 3rd party websites, like those cdkey stores, then once installed, just to to the settings to activate it. But on another note that's only kind of related to this topic. My OS got corrupted and I needed to reinstall my OS. I downloaded a copy directly from microsoft and then I modified it using NTlite, so that I can remove bloatware and unwanted settings and app before installing. After that, the usual, I created a bootable usb and then reinstalled it to my pc. I set it up so that it o that it would as me to create a local account and not prompt me to login with my microsoft account. The weird thing was that when I'm on the desktop there's no watermark. Checking the Activation settings, it says its activated. I got curious so I opened cmd and registry and found a product key that's not mine. lol now I got two.

Personally, I would suggest getting something that has more capacity. But just between those two, get the 1000VA. Although if you are gaming and consuming at around 300-600w, I don't even think it will last for a minute or two or even less than that.

Yes I do. But as I've briefly mentioned. I don't know if it's due to my current windows having issues. But creation media tool isn't working for me. It won't complete with either options, directly creating a bootable or creating an ISO. So I needed an ISO as I will also be using NTlite before creating the bootable. But I didn't know about the rufus. Thanks for that info.

Am I the only one who did not know about this? So to start with, window 11 have a direct ISO download on their website. But for windows 10, you need to download the creation media tool. Unfortunately, mine was always stuck at 0% progress. So I contacted microsoft tech support to get a direct link for the ISO, since I couldn't remember or if it's already gone. So here's the resolution. Originally, here's what the link would greet you. What you need to do is to press CTRL+Shift+I or look for Developers tool in the settings. Next is to click refresh a few times. After that this is what would appear. With this we can directly download a clean ISO and use rufus to create a bootable.

What's your current system? If you are still using something right now, then yeah that's probably the best option. Also why a ryzen 9, are you doing any productivity task? If not, then just stick with the highest x3d ryzen 7 CPU. In my opinion, it's actually better, price-wise to buy parts at quarter 4 of the year every time and not in the middle. As these are the times when rams, storages or even PSU drops in price. So the more you save on these parts, the more budget you can get on the more important once.

Depending on which specific CPU, the highest you should probably go for are RX 590,1060 6gb and those 1660/s/ti cards. You could probably get away with 2060, but it will probably get bottlenecked a bit.

If you don't normally turn on raytracing then you can go with an AMD GPU and adjust the few components so that you can max your CPU as well. 7900gre should be close and on par with 4070s. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor (€400.00 @ Amazon Italia) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (€42.90 @ Amazon Italia) Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-P Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard (€135.79 @ Amazon Italia) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL38 Memory (€99.74 @ Amazon Italia) Storage: Silicon Power UD90 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€74.98 @ Amazon Italia) Video Card: PowerColor Fighter OC Radeon RX 7900 GRE 16 GB Video Card (€594.04 @ Amazon Italia) Case: Zalman S2 ATX Mid Tower Case (€45.46 @ Amazon Italia) Power Supply: Asus Prime AP-750G 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€92.43 @ Amazon Italia) Total: €1485.34 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-10 16:12 CEST+0200

Personally, I would probably buy a windows key from vipcdkeys for around 15-20USD. But as for something you can upgrade after 5yrs, what you really need is an AMD. If you go with intel, the highest you can go is a 14th gen and from 13600k, the next best upgrade option that won't break the bank if ever is a 14700k. But those won't improve gaming performance that much. You can also use 64gb ram as depending what you will do, you might need more ram than a normal gamer. Intel PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($575.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($84.55 @ ExtremePC) Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 D AC ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($368.99 @ PB Technologies) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6400 CL34 Memory ($402.71 @ Paradigm PCs) Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($286.35 @ PB Technologies) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Video Card: PNY VERTO OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card ($1139.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Case: Phanteks XT PRO ATX Mid Tower Case ($78.99 @ PB Technologies) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.00 @ Computer Lounge) Total: $3334.59 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-10 20:57 NZST+1200 AMD build is probably not better in terms of productivity, but it will do and you can probably upgrade in 3-5yrs for a 1-3generation higher than 7000 series, depending on how much AMD will be generous with us. But what's important is that, if you upgrade to 8000 or hopefully ryzen 9000 and 10k gen(f their kind), will have performance uplift compared to 13th to 14th gen upgrade that you will be stuck with if you choose to go with intel now. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($569.00 @ Computer Lounge) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($84.55 @ ExtremePC) Motherboard: MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($335.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6400 CL34 Memory ($402.71 @ Paradigm PCs) Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($286.35 @ PB Technologies) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Video Card: PNY VERTO OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card ($1139.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Case: Phanteks XT PRO ATX Mid Tower Case ($78.99 @ PB Technologies) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.00 @ Computer Lounge) Total: $3294.60 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-10 20:59 NZST+1200

So I've been using this specific OS from the beginning. Started as window 7, upgraded my PC, then upgraded to windows 10 and then upgraded my pc again. I've cloned this from a hdd, to 2.5ssd to nvme. As I've used this same OS on multiple systems, I've used at least 4brands of motherboards across my upgrades. Technically, it is still working, it runs my my games and programs. But right now, I'm unable to open microsoft store or run apps that's been installed through it like, calculators, open pictures natively, etc. It might be the profile, but I'm unable to create a new one as the options are greyed out or won't open. As I've used this over the years, I've edited the registry and uninstalled several apps(bloatwares) that can't be disable or uninstall thru normal means. I've probably tried everything to fix this and the only thing I haven't tried are reset and reinstalling the OS. I personally, haven't use reset before, but have read through it. So if I choose reset and keep my files, it should reset all settings to default, uninstall app/games, keep my files across several drives and remain windows 10 pro, right? Would reinstalling a better solution(but probably takes longer)? I imagine it would be longer since I would have to save a backup to all my files first.

It shouldn't be the PSU. Why? because it would either work or not work. Other issues, is when it's still working but the PSU fans does not, so the reason why the system shutoff is due to overheating. So unless it's that, shouldn't be the PSU, as it does turn on. Because the only time a PSU overheats due to it's fan not working is when it has a high load and can't cooldown. While the other times, it would not just work anymore. Also, you tried it on another system and it work. So yes, you could use a better PSU, but it shouldn't be the problem for this. So you mentioned you tried 1 ram stick, just to be sure, have you tried using the other stick? But personally, it could be the motherboard. You can try to check the CPU pins. When you leave it on. Did you notice if the CPU heats up or remains cold? Plus if the PC keeps on cycling, normally, I would just leave it for a minimum of 30mins and even of up to full hour. If it's the CPU, the LED would be stuck on the CPU LED light and not really cycles. So I'm more incline to believe it's the motherboard with this one. You can try to replace the CMOS battery from the other motherboard. You can borrow another 1700 motherboard and check. But even if it works after using another motherboard, it's hard to pinpoint the issue, much less fix it, unless you have tools. If it's still under warranty, I would suggest to immediately borrow a CPU or motherboard or both.

I'll probably start with the one below. If you are near a microcenter you can get one of their bundle. Just know that 7700 and 7600 are very identical in gaming performance, same with 7700x and 7600x. And the non x and x variant are not very far apart. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.00 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B650M-H/M.2+ Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($94.97 @ Amazon) Storage: MSI SPATIUM M371 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ MSI) Video Card: ASRock Challenger OC Radeon RX 7700 XT 12 GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg) Case: Deepcool MATREXX 40 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart BM3 850 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon) Total: $992.80 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-08 01:53 EDT-0400

Well GPU voltage and even usage would really fluctuate depending on how much load or is being utilized. There are more than one reason why you are having this issue. During these dips, did you notice what's the GPU and CPU utilizations are? Just going by what you provided, you can try to lock the gpu voltage and frequency using afterburner. So it would consistently run at the same clock and power. I mean I bet that the drop in power also means a drop in gpu utilization. So the next question is, what are these specific games that's having these issue and during what part of those games? At what resolution are you playing those games at? What happens to the CPU utilization when this happens? How much vram is in use? What other application are running in the background when this happens? Have you already tried to use DDU and reinstall gpu driver and made sure all drivers are updated?