EpiCheeseTime

Perfect! Thank you!

My coworker just started and her laptop is set up to a Thunderbolt dock to two displays. We are having issues with the second monitor connecting when the dock is plugged in. Third monitor connects no issue. The only thing that makes the second monitor work is going into either Intel or Windows settings, set the display refresh rate to something different, then change it back to the original. Then it works fine. I have swapped the dock, checked cables, checked drivers, reverted drivers, updated drivers: issue stays and still the only fix is above. I even tried two other systems (different specs same Win 11), those connect no issue. Anyone have any thoughts? Device: Lenovo ThinkPad Dock: Lenovo USB C Thunderbolt docking station Monitors: Samsung lc32t55 (both connected HDMI)

Right, which we do for the larger labels, but the smallest Avery label is still too big. For example, this is a sample modem attached, and the current "testing" label is 1/2" x 2". Was looking at one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZXG1VPJ/?coliid=IP4TH6DSB4XP7&colid=184UU7PKSDLF0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 but it looks cheap. Just trying to see what others use before trying 17 different label makers.

Hello all! I am looking for an office label maker to list IP addresses on cell modems. We currently use the standard Dymo handheld that does not connect to computers. All modems are scanned using bardcodes, and we are needing the IP's to be printed on a label to affix (at time of programming) a label for the customer to know the IP. Of course due to human error, the IP currently can become fat fingered and causes us to lose time trying to dig and find the information through the system. What does everyone else use to make little 1/2 inch wide labels that can connect to a computer and use something like Excel to push the data out. Thanks in advance!

No of any work around other than reverting?

Hard part, there's a lot of "special" software running on mine, his is only 2 months old with nothing "special" yet. So its both sides of the spectrum that are effected. I cannot do a clean install as some of the installs are one time things.

So i recently upgraded my work computer to Win11 along with one of my guys to be the guinea pigs. Everything so far is good and dandy, except Coping and Pasting. Both of us will randomly have issues with copy paste to where we need to reboot the system for it to work. We thought it was excel, outlook, or other windows suite of things that were causing it. But yesterday, neither of us opened them and it still happened. Anyone else having this issue or have a work around?

ASUS won't tell me and google isn't helping either. Anyone have a part number or know where I can get a replacement QLED screen. Have some burn in and about to do an overhaul, figured I would fix it. Thanks in advance!

Damn....and that would have to be the latest and greatest android version.

Hello all, after intense googling, I still cant find an answer.... (also move if this should be under networking...sorry) Essentially I am after hotspot help. WE have an app where the customer will supply their own mobile device, and we will have the RS232 to Wi-Fi adapter set up static so each truck is identifiable. We cannot have them look up the IP and base it off that. It needs to be super streamlined and set up once and it just works with little to no modification after the initial set up... I remembered way back when on my S3 I was able to configure the DHCP/default IP range or subnet settings of any device connected through the Hotspot. (unless that was a dream...) But now we have an app that we need to have a device connect through the hotspot. Works like a charm so far. Only on my device though (One Plus 6t). That hands out an IP of 192.168.43.xxx So I config the device to be static of 43.2 and it works. But as soon as I try with another device (Samsung tablet) that device is handing out a 192.168.20.xxx. Different subnet and everything so that doesn't work. Then a separate Samsung phone handed out a 192.168.90.xxx. Is there a list of some sorts of what companies use or have set up for their devices? We are trying to not provide the devices as we do not want to pay for their data and let them handle that.

i would think $150 is highest for it.

My wife is wanting to get a good drawing pad or additional screen for her laptop. Since hers doesn't have touchscreen we cant just get a good pen or whatever. So I'm looking for an additional screen she can use as a touch screen or even a nice little pad and interface with the built in display. Anyone have some nice recommendations?

Perfect thanks. DRAM less isnt terrible. Not like I'm going to be rendering or gaming off it...lol...or will I?

Great. Anything else? This isn't dram-less right?

Would like more, better to have it and not need it rather than need it and not have it. Ideally 1tb would probably be fine. My 64gb thumb drive is full...and still have about 200gb to to keep. So 500gb min. Would it be smart to get an SSD, and an encloser? Know that is a solution, but I'm only finding those cheap ones that i feel like the connector would break quick.

After my company's onedrive decided to take a dump AND the H drive is not always reliable. Needing an external just to have that redundancy, and to mess with code while at home. That cannot be on github. Looking to spend less than $200, SSD and would like to have faster speeds. Can be USB-C, but don't really care about the interface. Nothing fancy like a fingerprint reader on it (thats what bitlocker/encryption is for amiright?), just need reliable and speed would be a nice addon.

Apple, finding new ways to charge you for things you didn't ask for since 1976.

Wait...so what would happen if you had two accounts...then exported the passwords into your other lastpass account...but you would still be able to have it on both phone and computer

Yes, use DDU in safemode to fully remove the display drivers. And ive been there bud...only having one cable isnt fun haha. Lending them out to friends and when you need them...cant use them lol. Spares is always a good thing. But checking software is a free and minor annoyance issue.

Completely uninstall drivers and do a fresh install?

Check drivers?

If you make a ram drive...doesnt that delete everything on it once power is lost? @ragnarok0273

Yes...save the headache and plug the fan back in...biggest pain ever...

If you are going to repaste your gpu, why not add an AIO to it? It would probably help to repaste it. A card that old and hasn't been cleaned (deep cleaned), would help to clean it all the way to the core. The paste could be cracked and not making good contact. The heatsink could be dirty and not providing great cooling either. If you built your computer, you can take apart a GPU just fine. Screw here, screw there. Clean, reverse disassemble. Just do not mix up the screws. Lay the screws out how you took them out and ensure they go to the right hole. Overall, good idea. Will it make it as cool as you want it? Probably not.

If you look at the BSOD error codes, that would help. Assuming that it is going to be hardware though since you've narrowed it down (kinda) Do you have another drive to install windows on? That would eliminate the HDD as the issue. I would then try PSU, then mobo.