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Aaralli

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About Aaralli

  • Birthday Nov 12, 2001

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Destynee#0798
  • Steam
    Aaralli
  • UPlay
    Reward321
  • Xbox Live
    JeyWard

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 2600X
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32gb 3200mhz
  • GPU
    XFX RX 580 8gb
  • Case
    Cooler Master MB500
  • Storage
    SU655 960tb SSD, 2x Seagate Constellation ES 3tb
  • PSU
    Bitfenix Formula Gold 650W
  • Cooling
    Corsair H150i Pro RGB
  • Keyboard
    Redragon K550
  • Mouse
    Logitech G503 HERO
  • Sound
    Harmon/Kardon Sounsticks II
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Hello. I recently bought an old "MTO-1000" 1000mm lens, built in Soviet era Russia. It is the oldest version of the lens as well, making it much heavier and harder to work with than the ones from the 80s. It has an M39 mount, but when adapting to Canon's EF mount and then using it on an EOS R7 with an EF-RF mount adapter, I couldn't quite reach infinity focus. It seems I was off by a HAIR, like a millimeter or less closer to the camera body and I would've been perfect. Does anyone know an adapter for the Russian version of M39 mount to RF directly? By the way, I cannot adapter this lens to a Canon DSLR as far as I can tell, because the flange distance requires that the edges of the lens would be INSIDE the grip and built in flash. I've attached some images of the MTO-1000 lens for reference and explanation as to why I need to use a mirror less camera.
  2. Thank you, you've been very helpful. I think I'll go with 3600 mt/s in whatever latency I find first. The reason I'm going with older stuff is, I have a guy who repairs broken pins on CPUs and other "broken" but easy(ish) to fix PC components and I get my selection of parts from his wares whenever I see fit. Not much AM5 or DDR5 gear has been broken yet.
  3. Honestly, I can't ever buy Intel chips or boards. I've had this grudge against Intel for over a decade now and I'm only 21 years old (very long story best saved for another day). I'll likely be stuck with AMD processors forever, although I do build Intel systems for other people or use old Intel chips when I get them for free. On another PC I use regularly I have a Ryzen 9 3950X with 4x8gb of Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3600 MT/s CL18, and that's the fastest I've ever owned. If not the absolute top speed, what speed should I realistically be looking for? I'm not interested in "desyncing" the infinity fabric. I'd never heard of it running at 1900mhz on 5000 series CPUs though. I guess I just assumed that they ran at the same speed as 3000 series.
  4. I'm about to buy parts for a new gaming/video editing PC, and I'm wondering what the absolute fastest RAM I can use is. I'm planning on using an ASUS X570 Crosshair VIII HERO WiFi, Ryzen 9 5900X, RTX 2070 Super (saving for an upgrade, already have this card), and at least 32GB of RAM. I like having all 4 ram slots populated because it looks better IMO, so what's the fastest RAM I should buy that can be used in all 4 slots? I know some boards have two fast slots and two slower ones but I couldn't find an actual rated top speed. By the way, if it's actually better to just use two RAM sticks in the two main slots, I'm fine with that if I can get it faster but I would definitely like to know my options. Also is it worth going over 3600Mhz if the FCLK of the CPU likes to be at 1800mhz?
  5. So I've just built a computer. Specs are as follows: • Asus ROG Strix B550-E Gaming Wifi • Ryzen 9 3950X • 4x 8gb Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200 speed • Corsair RM850x • Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super • Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB • 2x Adata SU800 1TB • Corsair Crystal 680X • Corsair H150i RGB Pro XT with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal. • Corsair QL120 and QL140 fans, Commander Pro, and Lighting Node Cores (In case you can't tell, I'm a big fan of Corsair products) I assembled my computer over the course of several days, ensuring that each and every component was installed correctly and all the cabling was perfect. Upon my first attempt to turn it on however, I was met with the DRAM debug LED glowing. I tried every single one of 6 different ram sticks and ram configurations from just one in each slot to two in different slots to all four slots bring populated. No matter what, the PC would not post. There was a slight liquid metal leak from under the cooler onto the backplate of the GPU at one point, but I am fairly certain that none got on the motherboard at any point. What do I do now? RMA the board? Are there any diagnostic steps I should take? I can't get into the bios and there is no signal from the GPU at any point.
  6. It's a windows 10 laptop, I also run a DAS on a desktop but that's for another discussion entirely.
  7. When it comes to automation, I really want to be able to plug in my card reader and SD cards and for the program, (hopefully running constantly in the background) to detect the card and automatically move the photos onto my SSD under a specific file folder, so it might look something like this (in text): Plug in>D Drive>2022>October>10-18-2022 The name of each photo file, at least from Canon cameras, does not correlate to when it was taken, for example one might be "img3607.jpg" but in the EXIF data file attached to each photo is the date, time, and camera settings, and I'm hoping the program would be able to read that EXIF data. I don't know exactly where to look, but if I were to ask/hire someone to help me write something like this, how would I word it? Obviously my original post needed some clarification, so how would you phrase all of this so that someone writing code would understand my needs?
  8. I use Lightroom but I don't like only sticking to cloud backups. I want my photos to first import to my 2tb SSD in my laptop automatically, then I'll back it up to a secondary drive and to the cloud later.
  9. I am a professional photographer. I use a LOT of SD cards and a lot of backup drives and devices. I was wondering if there's a way to write code that, when I plug in an SD card, my computer automatically detects the card and offloads the files into the proper folder? I organize my photos by date, and then mark each folder with more info later so with the EXIF data in a photo a program should be able to see the date and put photos into the proper folder right? And every SD card has the same name when used in my cameras so it would be easy to recognize I'd guess.... Could I go to some place like Fiverr and pay someone to write something like this? I use windows 10 on my laptop and desktop, if that means anything. I'm not a programmer and I don't write code so any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, if there's a better place to ask this please let me know. I considered looking at Reddit but there are so many subreddits I wouldn't know where to go.
  10. About six years ago, I was taking photos on a school field trip with a Canon Rebel T6. Instead of a normal SD card, I was using some random old 16GB micro SD card in an adapter in the camera. When I took it home to review photos, most of them had really interesting little glitches in them. Some photos had inverted colors, some lacked contrast, some had swapped the left and right side of the frame, and some just had what looked like an orange or blue overlay over parts of the image. Honestly, some of those photos looked REALLY COOL IMO. I tried to recreate them with my EOS 90D, and adapter, and a 256GB Samsung Card I had lying around, but it did not come out the same. Every photo was pristine and perfect. My question is, does anyone know how those photo glitches happened, and how I can recreate them?
  11. Thank you so much for that advice, I will absolutely save up for a nicer lens, like the L series 100mm Macro. Until then, I bought an open box Canon 25mm extension tube and an excellent condition used 50mm F1.4 USM lens. I was wondering though, if you saw someone else's answer somewhere on here, that the "Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2:1 Ultra Macro" lens was even better than the Canon 100mm L series, because it has a 2:1 magnification rather than the normal 1:1... Or should I just use a 2x teleconverter and get the same result?
  12. You never need a new motherboard for a new GPU, unless you're on 30 year old hardware
  13. I highly recommend upgrading your GPU first. I had an RX580 for a while. It was ok, but now I have an RTX 2080 and I'm very happy with it. As far as I know, CP2077 is pretty hard to run on older hardware, but Nvidia GPUs make it a little easier with DLSS features turned on.
  14. I looked it up and there was a single article about mixing these things. It specified that you need to put them in this order: camera body, two 2x teleconverters, extension tube, then they did their normal lens.
  15. Okay, one more question and I'll have my answer to all of this. I just had an idea and I need to find out if this is absolutely crazy or not.... So I have the Canon extension tube already. If I buy a macro lens, which as previously discussed already has a sort of built in extension, can I combine them to get even CLOSER to the subject? On top of that, can I incorporate teleconverters or macro filters on top of ALL THAT to get an even bigger, closer, "zoomier" picture? I know I'm treading well into the crazy, but this is really just a thought experiment at this point. I also know that adding all this really screws with depth of field and diffraction and other things, though. At some point, I'll buy a macro lens, a 2x teleconverter, and a filter, and I'll mess around with them until I post my results here and on some subreddit just so it's out there in the world.
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