caliusoptimus

Unfortunately the bios doesn't have any usb options. Doesn't even have a WoL option, but I'm going to try it anyway. WoL sounds like a pretty good solution, and I do have an arduino or two with ethernet. I don't really mind modding the laptop... I just can't think of any mods that would help (already pulled the magnet out of the screen so it can turn on/off when closed). I could run some wires to the power switch and relocate it but that just seems ghetto and impractical. The end goal is to have it automatically sleep and wake up... If that fails I'll do what I must.

The plot thickens. The laptop will wake from a usb mouse click... but only if you manually put it into sleep by hitting the power button or using the start menu. For some unknown reason... when the laptop times out and goes to sleep it will not wake from a usb mouse. Lovely.

Long story short I've been using a laptop in my truck as an audio DSP and bluetooth receiver. Reason being it completely eliminates the need for a deck and $1k worth of hardware DSP. I don't need access to the keyboard, mouse or screen to perform these functions so I'd like to find a way to tuck it under the seat. Currently the charger is wired to switch on and off with the ignition so that it doesn't drain the battery. This is a perfect method for turning off the laptop, as it is set to go to sleep one minute after going on battery. NOW... the problem is that if the laptop is under the seat I cannot wake it up without hitting a key or hitting the power button. Any ideas for an easy way to wake the laptop with something other than a mouse or a keyboard? Like a simple button, or better yet, something that wakes the pc as the ignition turns on. Not going to mod the laptop itself, so it must be a plug in sorta setup. Any ideas? USB power button? (does that exist?) I don't mind modding a peripheral, of course I'd like to take the most simple route possible. I've considered just getting a small keyboard featuring power buttons... but that's just one more thing I don't need cluttering the cab.

Y'all might want to unplug your brains from youtube for a second because jayz video is (unfortunately, I like the guy) complete unscientific bullshit. He failed to take several things into account: 1. He never ran both gpu and cpu under full load at the same time. 2. He didn't change the flow rate. Not all systems have excellent flow rates like the one in his video. 3. What was the overclock? How much power was he actually pushing through the components? The only truly correct thing in this video is: the overall loop temp will not change based on loop order. I encourage all of you to run this test yourselves. Put your CPU in front of your GPU then fire up prime95 and furmark at the same time. Then switch the CPU and GPU and run the same test again. THEN, repeat the same two tests with the pump at a lower flow rate. I've done this myself, running massive overclocks on a 1080ti and a 7820x and well... the results are clear. If you preheat the water with your CPU, the GPU is going to run at a higher temperature and vice versa. In my case I was able to get a 5-10c difference with half speed on a D5 pump. Please stop parroting disinformation!

Mini Update. I've got a plan laid out for the case. I decided to (more or less) build it around an open benchtable. I ordered the OBT but thanks to Chinese newyear it's probably 3 weeks away. Here's a rough draft of the case. Still waiting for the OBT to arrive before I can work on any of the finer details. The case will be built from 1" square tubing. I'm debating between aluminum and stainless... aluminum is cheap, but not as pretty or easy to weld as stainless. Stainless is more expensive but probably a nicer end result. There will be sealed acrylic sheets on 5 sides (probably 3/16"), with a metal panel on the bottom. All of the cables will be fed through the wall with various sealed connectors. The PSU will be mounted outside the case, to reduce the heat load on the chiller. There will be a small radiator, either 120 or 240, inside the case to cool the internal air. There will also be a tray in the bottom to hold some sort of desiccant like CaCl2. I've been debating on how to control the internal air temp. One option is to put a ball valve on the radiator, so that I can adjust the flow manually and keep the case from condensing water on the outside. The other option is to use a temp controller to operate a solenoid valve to the radiator. This would probably be best as I'm sure the heat load will be variable... just adds another step of complexity. I'll probably add a separate 12v supply to control the pumps so that I can chill the water before starting the PC.

Never done it before, but the concept is simple enough. I've heard some folks short the resistor(s) with liquid metal... which sounds like a total hack job. I'm fairly proficient at soldering, and have an iron that can handle SMT. I was considering just adding another resistor in parallel to reduce the current reading by say... 25% or so. Sounds like a decent idea, since it would be unlikely to trip any "low current" alarms. For example, if the current sense resistor was 5mOhms I could stack a 10mOhm resistor on top. Ever heard of, or seen this done before? My card is an evga FTW3 with waterblock. System is hooked up to a chiller running 12-14c so the VRMs have tons of thermal headroom. Another concern... if I remove the waterblock I will probably have to replace some of the thermal pads. Any idea where to get some new ones in various thicknesses?

Probably a PG blend. Both ethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be used down to -50 or lower. Glycerol is good until -40ish, but it is the more viscous of the three and pumping it is a challenge even at room temp. Propylene glycol is my choice for being non-toxic and also being thinner than glycerol.

Nice job!! That was a good read, haven't found many threads going into such detail. I've tried some clocks over 5ghz on my current setup with the water temp steady at 12c. I was able to get 5.1 stable but the voltages were off the charts, so I understand your point. Did you ever push below 7c? My plan is to build a sealed and dehumidified case so that I can push temps below 0c. I'm hoping this will enable some higher clocks without the voltage... but we shall see.

I came into this project without expectations, and so far it's been fun and interesting, which is good because that was my only goal! That said, do you have a build log or something to show your assertions? Seems like there are a lot of folks who have gotten significant performance boosts from running a chiller. Even running above the dew point I have been able to stabilize my system at a higher clock than I ever could with radiators alone.

For the chiller I'm only up to around $250-$300. The chiller itself was 200 "new" (but leaking?!). Everything else I already had laying about, accept for the fittings and flow sensor. The 1gal res cost about 80 bucks fittings included, but I would have needed that with any other chiller in the <$1k range. As far as cooling capacity, functionality and noise level... I feel like I'm ahead of the curve for <$400 all in!

Woohoo! Fan problem solved. I threw together some sheet metal and acrylic to make a shroud for some 120mm fans and so far so good. I measured the high side temp before and after to make sure the fans were adequate. With the stock fan high side was around 95F. With two ML120's the high side was around 100F, and with four it was back to 95F. I didn't take pic but I slapped a 12v meanwell supply inside the case and managed the fan wiring. The noise level is SO much better. I am definitely satisfied. Next step is to make a sealed case and dip down below the dew point. TBC...

I get the feeling that you are one of those guys that starts with big ideas... then never lifts a finger. If you really want to do this... learn how to calculate how much CO2 is needed to satisfy your cooling needs. Once you've done that I can help you make it a reality.

Yes, using CO2 to cool a radiator is possible. Yes, it is also the most roundabout ridiculous way to get near ambient temps ever, and may be mildly insane. Just buy a chiller. Or a big radiator.

Lots of changes since my last update! Turns out this chiller was super cheap for a reason... the reservoir inside the chiller has been leaking. I didn't notice because it was a small drip soaking into the carpet. No damage, I found it and cleaned up promptly. After some experimentation I've noticed that the flow rates through this chiller are very low. Even with three D5 pumps in series, running full speed, the 1/4" copper lines inside the chiller are just too small. SO... since the reservoir was leaking I was able to gut ALL of the 1/4" lines. The evaporator is made by soldering two 5/16" copper coils together, one coil for refrigerant and the other for water. The water side had 1/4" lines brazed into the 5/16" lines, and I was able to cut all of the 1/4" out which drastically improved the flow rate. Since the reservoir was toast I made a new one. I picked up a 1 gallon vacuum jacketed water bottle and added some bulkhead fittings to the lid. The lid connection is pretty decent. The plastic is thick and all of the seals work quite well. Not sure what pressure my system is running, but it holds no problem. The res was extremely helpful in buffering any spike and dips in thermal load. With a 1gal res I can now regulate the water temp within 1degC without cycling the chiller too quickly. I solved another issue by installing a flow sensor in the chiller. The original temp sensor was attached directly to the evaporator, which kept the system from freezing up. The problem with this location is that it turns the compressor on and off very often, and does not provide an accurate reading of the water temp. I moved the sensor into the PC case, right before the CPU which is the first component to receive chilled water. This way the chiller is regulating the temperature at the most important part of the loop. With the flow sensor I can keep the system from freezing up by shutting off the chiller when the pumps stop. Overall it's working extremely well now. Last thing I'd like to fix is the fan in the chiller. I've got a plan, just gotta find some time to make the parts.

I've got the thermaltake LCS PR15-D5 200ml. Works great, didn't need pwm so the pump was fine for me. For $155 I'd say it's a fair deal. Why do you want PWM? I say leave it at full speed. It barely makes any noise at all, and lower flow rates just mean higher temps. Hell, I've got 3 D5s in series on my current build running full speed and I can't hear them over two fans running 50%.

Also, FTR, wasn't saying that loop order changes the cooling capacity of the system. My 1080ti runs around 60c fully overclocked with radiator cooling. CPU's however can easily hit 100c before you reach a respectable overclock. Choosing the correct loop order, and not preheating the water to your CPU can knock off 5-10c from your CPU temps. I have seen this in my own pc, the difference was night and day. Nowadays I run a chiller around 12c. With the CPU first in the loop I am attaining 5ghz (4.7avx) on a 7820x (maxes at 75c) and the GPU doesn't pass 55c under full load for both. With the opposite loop order the GPU runs 50c and the CPU gains 5-10c.

Jay almost got to me after watching that video. Then I came back to reality and remembered that I am an engineer, not a parrot, and that basic thermodynamics says: If you preheat the water with your GPU, then feed it to your CPU, the CPU is going to run at a higher temp (than the other way around) regardless of overall equilibrium.

IIRC AIsuite has a bunch of processes that run even after uninstall. take a look through the startup and services and try disabling anything that sounds like asus. Also delete the aisuite folder if you havent already

Yes. It does. With high flow rates small difference. With low flow rates it makes a massive difference in CPU/GPU temps. @OP Since your GPU is so much cooler than your CPU you might want to to feed the CPU the coolest part of the loop, then the GPU after like: res > pump > cpu > gpu > rad > rad or res > pump > rad > rad > cpu > gpu or res > pump > cpu > rad > gpu > rad May help very little, may help a lot. Depends on how much flow your pump is providing.

I have the exact same unit on my CO2 laser... it is not refrigerated.

This isn't actually a chiller, it's a big radiator. There is no refrigeration system inside, but you could certainly hook a PC up. I have one just like it for my CO2 laser and I can tell ya it is quite loud.

That AIO should be fine on that CPU. Something is wrong, either bad AIO or bad conductivity between CPU and block. Idle should be around 30c and around 75c under prime95 stress test. (without oc) I have almost the exact same setup btw, 7820x, prime x299 deluxe, 1080ti ftw3 (just one though).

I was thinking the same. Unless you crank the flow rate down super low the water is only going to drop 1degC or so. My 2000btu chiller only drops 3degC-ish with modest flow rates. (ps: that chiller keeps both my gpu and cpu supplied with 12C water under full load, which is about 1000w at the wall)

I picked up some thin foam strips to wedge between the joints. Definitely helped, unfortunately the fan is still quite out of balance and is causing 75% of the noise. I'll get around to trying some different fans once I have time to make a duct. On another note, I think 5.1... even 5.2 is within the realm of possibility without pushing below the dew point. Prime 26.6 Prime 29.4 (AVX)

If you are capable of designing the block and drawing a print... you could send it to a prototyping company like protolabs. I've seen some chinese prototyping services with very low prices, and you might get it down to the $50-100 range plus shipping. They won't accept a napkin drawing, so unless you are capable of solid modelling (at the very least) you might be SOL