himynameisryan21

Does shadowplay even have that option?

Hi All, I have tried to condense this as much as possible Shadowplay has been recording a software that is in the background instead of the game i'm playing and i can't figure out how to change this without closing that other application. For reference I have a 1 ultrawide monitor setup, so it isn't the other issue I've seen while attempting to remedy this where the incorrect monitor records. This means that after i use instant replay to record a clip, im left with just my mic audio and a background program being recorded Here are the programs i was using at the time: Game attempting to be recorded with instant replay: Halo Master Chief Collection (however the same issue occurs in any game) Program that was actually recorded: AirServer for Windows 10 (it is in the background behind the game) Other softwares open: just discord Steps i have tried so far to remedy this: changing the order i open applications, minimize airserver, restart pc. and i can't find a setting for which program is recorded in any of the nvidia settings So, does anyone know a solution? Thank you all in advance for help and for reading such a lengthy post PS: Just Closing AirServer does solve the issue but it would be ideal to avoid this as I use it to airplay from my phone so i can control music (apple music not spotify) on my pc from phone/watch (round about solution ik, but i come up with ridiculous jank solutions to problems like this)

In terminal my Mac name appears as shown in the screenshot what is "ryandebijiA-bendiannao" and how do I change it to literally anything else it was also my computer name under sharing in system preferences, but I have since changed that to "Ryan's MacBook Air" Thx in advanced

Also i am checking used market

ah well, anything above the 24-30 im at now will be nice and just the ability to play at more than 720p so I can actually see things would be very nice imo.

nah unfortunately has to be pc because ultra wide, discord, music in background with apple music and graphics card to go to 144hz and gsync in future when prices are more stable

Budget (including currency): $580AUD (excluding shipping) but the closer to $0 the better lol Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: just apex legends and stardew valley since I video edit on my m1 MacBook. EDIT: needs to be pc cause discord, ultra wide, apple Music in background & potentially upgrading to 144hz and G Sync on my monitor once graphics prices stabilise. (end edit) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/QNGTQD - parts list me and a friend came up with edit 2: micro atx cause my whole desk is filled with my 3 (soon 4) monitor video editing setup and I have limited space elsewhere (I got around apples 2 monitor limit LOL) already have peripherals and monitor fps goal: 40-60fps minimum apex legends settings at 1080p ultra wide (2560x1080) coming from cheapo hp craptop cause m1 gaming doesn't work (anti cheat issues) I'm a general tech "enthusiast" but very lazy so easy cable management is necessary for me xD

thx

again with the whole us-au power adapter thing

So i lost the laptop charger on my asus vivobook flip tp412FA Now here are the two issues: it has a usb-c port, however upon tests of a thinkpad x1 yoga's 65w and apple's m1 macbook air m1 30w charger, I found (and google confirmed) that it doesn't support USB-C charging I found this charger, however I live in Australia so this will not work (also, I don't know if it will even ship here) does anyone know of an Australian alternative to that 45w charger? also, I need a small setup so outlet adapters aren't an option Thx

is it possible to manually throttle my macbook's connection so I can download/update apps or other large files without eating my (extremely) slow 10mbs down/3mbs up connection? preferably for free and even more preferably just on the mac itself, no external changes thx

no, it really isn't like i said, for the few using the cameras mentioned, unless they use proxies (or final cut's built in auto render to prores that fills your hard drive) the m1 pro plays back smoothly where systems don't. sure, the others MAY render faster (i never pay attention to render times) but playback just doesn't work as smoothly on systems without that specific encoder. it's the same reason lumafusion on ipad pro would play back a7s iii footage smoothly but mac pro can't however for literally everyone else, x86 can do just as good if not better and that only applies to the m1 chips (or others with that encoder that are also powerful enough for that kind of video editing)

They absolutely destroy anything else in h.265 4:2:2 video editing. even threadripper builds or the maxed out mac pro can't play it back smoothly. the macbook air can (but obv not the eor r5 or sony a1 8k footage, that can be handled by the macbook pro) that's cause any other GPUs and CPUs out there only have h.265 4:2:0 encode and decode ad lack 4:2:2 or at least as of two months ago But, not everyone video edits and very few of those people have sony a7siii/a1 or canon eos r5 footage so it's a pretty niche problem

So I picked an m1 air base model up for video editing (specifically cause final cut is so much better than premiere) 2 months ago now and have had consistently amazing final cut performance. Sometimes for up to 8 hours straight, with barely any thermal throttling This is my first ever mac and first Apple product since 2014 so yeah, I don't know much But out of nowhere I had a kernel panic and then when I relaunched final cut it was running extremely sluggishly. The ONLY thing that changed was a kernel panic happened For the rest of that editing session and the next the same same sluggish performance. Random beachball after cutting a clip or any other basic edit and while playback is fine the playhead kinda jumps across the timeline as it's playing. Is it possible the kernel panic affected the final cut install? Or the macos install? As I mentioned, this is my first mac ever and I don't know much so if the answer is obvious, sorry Other essential info: I edit off the internal 256gb ssd, (I'm ordering a 2tb t7 soon since I run out of space all the time) and have some assets (sound fx) on a 2tb usb 3 Toshiba hdd. But that's not the issue cause I've done this for 2 months without issue I have bg rendering OFF because storage and there normally isn't a need for it (there is already normally smooth playback) Running macos 11.1 cause 25mbs download speed here in Australia And the Wi-Fi issues of m1 mean I can get a max of 3mbs down when on Wi-Fi (that fluctuates) Any other questions, just ask When it's not having problems (in my 2 months, I've had way more issues on mac than windows) it flies through complex 4k timelines and even basic 6k. And for $1600 AUD I'm not complaining considering the other option (Prior to m1 I mean) is a PC for $200 AU more and you miss out on final cut which is better for a myriad of reasons.

My grandmother has had the original iphone se for 4 years years (got it in 2017). She is on the latest version of ios she wishes to be tracked by/track my grandfather (who uses a galaxy s8), peace of mind thing. The issue is that she cannot be tracked through google maps location share because the app keeps going to sleep, even though during the share location setup it prompted me to remove battery optimization (or whatever apple calls it, i'm an android guy) for google maps. Does anyone know why this is and/or have a solution? As i previously mentioned, I am an android user and have been since 2014, the last time I daily drove an iphone was 3 years ago when I daily drove an iphone 5 while my huawei got repaired (btw, do not recommend huawei, their software is atrocious, since upgraded to a samsung phone which is great), so I am very rusty in iOS Thx in advanced

And we thought the NBN that was meant to make everyone's internet faster that actually made most people's internet slower was bad.

As Steve Bllamer said, "Developers, Developers, Developers, Developers, Developers"

My system is set apart cause it has an apple m1 chip. xD currently m1 macbook air (switched from windows cause final cut, dislike macos but dislike premiere, resolve, vegas pro, etc more) but yeah in the future will buy an m1x mac mini (when it exists) for my heavy work the base model macbook doesn't handle (haven't had any of those yet, but I see them coming)

The issue solved itself. It was one of two things, A: the table I had it on was rocking and that caused the steps to go up (most likely since the table was rocking) B: the macbook charging it had something to do with it The watch is working perfectly now btw.

1st, I'm confused as to why it would be advertised with swim tracking and 50m water resistance if it wasn't sufficiently resistant for my swimming (it's rated for 50m water resistance, like my garmin was and the apple watch is) 2nd, why would it be the step tracking ONLY during the night, during the day it's as accurate as it ever was (not perfect, but good enough to get a general idea of my activity) That's why in my original post, I said towards the end I don't believe it was water damage, just an idea Edit: screengrab from samsung's website showing it SHOULD handle my swimming

on new years day, I woke up and my watch was on 70'000 steps, 2nd Jan, 67'000 Nothing different except new year and I was charging from my macbook rather than a wall power supply. screen works fine, activity tracking and steps during the day are fine, heart rate is 5bpm over what it actually is (or my heart is always 5bpm over what it should). Does anyone know a solution to these random step increases random I've had my galaxy watch active (og) since 1-2 months after launch. It's doing great and I've warn it nearly everyday since (replacing my garmin forerunner 735xt). Screen is scratched and it saved my arm when I literally fell over and only scratched the screen. I've warn it in all different waters and everything (even after the fall!)This all matters because I suspect there may have been some form of water damage. Then again, nothing else changed. If I can't find a solution soon, I will factory reset to attempt to fix. post updates later

All these did is reduce contrast. reducing contrast does reduce saturation, but it reduces contrast as well, not exactly my goal as that ruins image quality and gives a 2010 raised black level vibe EDIT: Apologies, you were right I had black levels on "high" in the monitor settings thx for your help Edit 2: I used the second method btw

Recently picked up an m1 macbook air (I have 0 experience with mac os, life long windows user), my external ultrawide monitor is way over saturated. To be clear, it was also over saturated on windows but I desaturated it, I just don't know how to do this on mac os. I use my inbuilt display for colour work, but I just want it to be a bit less saturated cause I'm kinda annoyed at YT videos looking so saturated My guess is it's over saturated cause it's a gaming monitor, and it makes games look better

No, but it's certainly going to beat a lot of higher priced windows desktops in video editing (especially 10 bit 4:2:2 footage from newer DSLR/mirrorless cameras which virtually no other desktop can currently edit) and if you need Final Cut Pro like me (not want, need), it's certainly a great deal. Imma get the 16gb model since my windows laptop is falling apart at this point

ngl that's what I did with windows when I was 2, should be easier now