1300ny

Looking at @Agalls pictures and your concerns with the rx5600xt. You should be able to fit the GPU and the PSU in the front if you go with a SFX PSU not deeper than 130mm. The one in the Picture is 160mm deep (Sorry not fluent in freedom units). That way you should have enough room for the GPU. Still kind of a janky solution. I'd probably just stick with the 120mm AIO.

no clue if it is any good or available but I have found a 140mm one: https://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=84 Other than that a Noctua NH-L9i-17xx with a bigger fan on top might be able to cool it at least somewhat. But you can pretty much forget about noise and overclocking and it probably won't turbo very high. Edit: A decent 120mm aio is probably your best bet.

A powered splitter might be solution for you as it usually doesn't draw a lot of power on the input.

You probably won't see it on the pins. You'd have to check the components on the PCB with a multi meter to get a definite answer, but they are probably speced to be able to handle just one fan. And if both fans run at a 100% for some time some component on the PCB might just burn out. I don't know if Corsair supplies the information of how many Amps you can draw per Port.

I would search google for anything you can find about the specific board you plan to use. Generalizing it to one manufacturer usually doesn't work.

Not 100% sure but I think the commander was just not made to be used with splitters a Quick google search later: The Commander pro doesn't like fan splitters. you might have partially broken the port. https://forum.corsair.com/forums/topic/173592-commander-pro-and-splitters/

With a 13700k you should not be CPU bound in any games. Maybe a 4090 would be too much, but that's about it.

Add to that the loss of the transfer protocols and you are at about the values you posted. Be aware that some of the supposedly faster enclosures with Thunderbolt 3(40Gbit) or USB 3.2 SuperSpeed+(20Gbit) only run with 2 PCIe 3.0 lanes which again limits you to about 16 Gbit. Annoyingly you really have to check for the used PCIe standard on all of them to see if they even saturate the used standard. USB-C: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C PCI-E: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express

@SpookyCitruss recommendations look great but for a few things you might want to think about: PSU: with your config a 600 to 650 W PSU would be fine. If you plan to get a bigger GPU you might want to stick with your 750W one. RAM: DDR4 is still quite a bit cheaper than DDR5 same goes for a fitting motherboard. If you don't plan to reuse some parts in a future setup you can think about going with DDR4. I don't have the exact numbers but the performance loss isn't THAT big and you can save at least 60$ that way. Motherboard: if you don't need anything from the Z790 series you could again stick with an old Z690 (you need DDR4 though and probably a bios update) Last thing: Do you REALLY plan on overclocking your system? If not you can save again by going down to a non K version with a cheaper H670 Motherboard and CPU cooler. I know quite a lot of people that bought the K versions and never overclocked their systems anyway. If you don"t overclock a K series its just a few % faster than the non K version. And the non K is usually quite a bit more energy efficient. PSU calc: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator DDR4 vs DDR5 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN7Bv_adHs0 Motherboard: https://youtu.be/3zcCX7yyiz4?t=130

I think we might need a little bit of the data you collected to give you guys some crowdsourced feedback. (like you said in the video: https://youtu.be/-n8N62DeNDU?t=215 ) eg: I have no clue if you did some 220V tests as well. I mean I guess you did but I don't know.

Since it shows the same symptoms with most parts removed it can only be one of those 3 parts (CPU, MB or PSU). I'd take a wild guess and also say it's the Motherboard since that is the most common part to give such an error, but i can't rule out the other two without trying them out or checking out the debug LEDs. If your CPU led is glowing you have probably found your faulty part. If not its probably the MB. Anyways I'd try to start it with the PSU from a friend and if that also fails it is nearly certainly the MB But you can never be a hundred percent sure until you tried out every part in another system.

It definitely doesn't come with the needed accessories. I gues you'd just have to buy a Riser cable like this one http://www.phanteks.com/Riser-Cables.html But even with that it doesn't have the optionaly (but recomended none the less) mounting holes on the PSU shroud. That would mean, that your GPU would only be held in place on the back. Sure that will work, but don't even think about moving the case around with the card installed that way. Not even taking about GPU sagging... All in all I wouldn't use it with a vertically mounted gpu (without some case modding)

I'd definitly stick with the IPS pannel! Especially since you said you want to edit Photos. The color is usually just way better on IPS pannels, and depending on your system you won't even reach the constant 144hz in many games. for more Infos just google it or be lazy and click here https://www.trustedreviews.com/news/ips-vs-tn-vs-va-gaming-performance-colour-explained-2948955

If you don't mind the slightly lower Battery life compared to other laptops and the darker Screen I'd try to find a Lenovo E485. It should fit in your price range and is a beast for its price.

It seems to me that you just have a typical onboard audio problem. Just stick in a usb soundcard like the one i posted and the white noise will be gone. That is quite common since the onboard audio circuit is still not as isolated from other components as they should be and picks up random electromagentic fluctuations which it translates into the "white noise" you hear. But those are still just guessses since I still don't know your exact laptop modell