NAVras

You're kind of asking for something that doesn't exist.
 
BT doesn't take nearly as much juice as lighting (Hence why keyboards will advertise "x amount of hours" with the lights on, but days (even weeks) with the lights off). 
 
As it is, you kind of have to either eat it, and buy a wired keyboard. Or remember to turn the lights off whenever you leave your PC

“Give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he eats for a life time”
 
The search for a monitor for many people ends in 2 ways:
 
They purchase a monitor seen on a retailer site based purely on specs and advertisements, and are done.
or
They come to a technology forum and ask for advice.
 
The latter usually results in them asking if monitor A or B is best, or what specs they should look for, and then people reply with suggestion usually based on the same advertised specs seen at retailers and/or 1st or 2nd hand subjective opinion.
 
The problem with this is that the display industry has a hidden world of details that are very important for those who want to make an informed purchasing decision, but seldom few ever get to know these details, details that directly relate to the quality of the display and its true capabilities beyond the usual fluff marketing material. These hidden details are known to enthusiasts who know of the few competent, thorough reviewers out there that can provide those details. But being in the minority this results in advice from such individuals possibly being missed by those who need that advice.
 
This is a guide on what information to look for, and where to find it, beyond the basic and often misleading ‘specs’ advertised by the manufacturers, retailers, and many of the self-proclaimed ‘reviewers’ seen online, so that you may make an informed purchasing decision on your own, for the most part.
 
Let’s start off with an important notice:
Any suggestions given to you for any monitor should be accompanied by a thorough tested review source, if it isn’t then such suggestions will be based purely on subjective opinion, often based on specs alone, which, as stated, can and usually are very misleading and missing lots of important information.
 
Now let’s move onto the ‘guide’.
 
Do not rely on advertised specs, and do not compare advertised specs. If its not a reviewed monitor, you're taking a gamble.
As will become evident as you go through this guide and follow the links to reviewers, the advertised specs can be and usually are very misleading. You can use them to glean basic information like resolution, size, frequency, number of ports etc, but things like 'response time' should be taken with a massive grain of salt.
 
Price:
 
Display Size/Viewing Distance/Resolution
 
Quality:
 
Panel Types:
 
Uniformity:
 
Pixel response speed (Response time):
 
Input lag:
 
Colour gamut and coverage:
This is a section I will not be getting into.
The simple reason being that if it’s an important aspect to you, you should already know everything that needs to be known for your given hobby or profession.
 
For the vast majority of people you won't need to know what things like the Adobe-RGB coverage or DCI-P3 coverage mean and are used for.
It is however tested for by most competent reviewers and so you can look there if interested.
 
Colour Accuracy:
As with above this is most important for professionals and certain hobbyists, however this is still somewhat relevant for everyone in my opinion.
 
HDR and SDR:
 
 
Where to look:
 
Now that we have gone through some of the most important 'hidden' aspects of Monitors, where do you find this information ?
 
As mentioned, reviewers. However, you will need to find those who test objectively, display the results, and ideally also inform you of their testing methodology so you can compare displays across different reviewers.
 
Here are a few places you can check.
 
Why isn’t LTT included?
I like LTT as much as the next person, however, when it comes to display reviews they lack details, and are for the most part halfway between a ‘overviewer’ and a proper ‘reviewer’.
Some of their videos will include information like colour accuracy and gamuts, they may even attempt a basic ‘blur’ amount test, but they are not currently at the level of Rtings or Hardware Unboxed. If you see a monitor on a LTT video and you think it looks good, I would still suggest you check the above sources first before purchasing.
Update: 17/12/22
LTT labs is now capable of providing detailed reviews of displays, keep an eye out for future reviews.
 
TVs as a monitor?
This ‘guide’ isn’t for TVs however a quick word on them
 
 
Why should you trust the above information to be true?
 
Display manufacturers are tight lipped when it comes to specific information about their displays that are not included in their advertisement material. And for good reason, no one wants potential customers to know the faults of their products.
 
However, statements like "the response time spec is massively misleading" can be tested, and has been. Every reviewer who tests pixel response speed comes out with an average pixel response speed that is different from the advertised specs, some even go so far as to try and replicate the advertised spec, and that is where we find out how the manufacturers get away with advertising these figures. They are 'technically' not a lie, just hugely misleading.
 
This is the same for all the above information, reviewers that have shown their testing method can confirm all the tested information they have gathered and it can be replicated, within panel variance, and thus confirmed to be true.
 
With the above information in hand, and links to a few reviewers where further more detailed information can be found, you should have all you need to make an informed purchasing decision when looking for a monitor.
 
 
 
If anyone thinks I should add any information to this post, do feel free to speak up.
 
Thanks to @Glenwing for help with format and error checking.

I have a Fractal Design Meshify C case, one of the screw hole for the power supply bracket is off by a few mm, which lifts one side of the power supply slightly if screwed on.
It caused the PSU to vibrate against the bottom panel whenever the fan was on, after the paint wore off it started to produce a vibrating sound.
Unscrewing the faulty side letting the PSU fall to natural position solved it. The thin rubber pads on the bottom panel didn't help for some reason, and that wasn't even the place that touched and wore off iirc.
Also a second source of noise, the plastic piece inside PSU underneath the fan (Corsair RM750x, but lots of PSU have this plastic piece). Eliminated the buzzing sound by flipping the PSU as suggested by another post, fan facing upwards.
I confirmed it's the plastic by taking out the PSU, slap it, makes the same springy noise, touch the plastic with a screw driver, slap again, no noise.

0.65A is RGB current. You don't need to worry about that, they are powered and controlled separately. You are looking at fans current, which is 0.3A. Most of fan headers are 1A per. Meaning that you can safely connect 3x0.3A fans, equaling 0.3A in total. Some headers are marked for high power. You can check from mobos manual or product page if there is such. They are either 2A or 5A per. Meaning even more fans.
 
You can go ahead and get 3-way splitters. Or just Y-splitters. Remember that splitter has one master and others are slave. Which means that one fan dictates what speed all connected fans are running. Usually this doesn't matter as you want to connect fans in same region or same type to single header/splitter. But if you are mixing fans, remember to connect the one running at highest rpm to master slot so you don't get any surprises with its speed being so much higher.