JTrevail

When I built my PC in an xbox chassis, I found a working black xbox online, and transplanted the internals into my dead translucent green xbox. The working hardware has since died; there are signs of dead capacitors and some lines that need to be jumpered. I would like this machine to go to a good home, even just to use the chassis.

I did a thing: bracket.stl

I'm using the Noctua NH-L9a on my Ryzen 5 2600, that improved my temps greatly. I also upgraded to a GTX 1650 OC LP. There are external power supplies that can run a bundle to a daughter board inside the case, that might keep your setup clean, but I didn't feel it respected the spirit of a sleeper build. I reverse engineered the controller port bracket and had a buddy print it out for me. I had to trim it a bit before installation. If anyone is interested, I will rev it up and share the STL file.

Better than nothing

7 hours after launch and support finally listened to me.

I'm in Canada; I contacted support via chat, email, and I even tweeted at them. I've been told twice now by support that the 4a has NIR. I just wanted to point out the mistake.

I tried to tell them, but they wouldn't listen. I don't think the 4a has NIR, but support insists it does. Will I get some sort of bug bounty? No, probably not https://store.google.com/product/pixel_4a https://store.google.com/magazine/compare_pixel NIR.txt

The Book of Eli

I actually fit a low profile GPU, so the 500W PSU isn't actually necessary, but it also isn't overkill. I also replaced the fan in PSU with a Noctua. I gutted the console, so the metal case is gone, but I retained the rigidity by keeping the four outer posts in the case, and by fastening the PSU right to the bottom of the case. The PSU is now structural lol, as is the DVI port.

I'm using a 500W internal PSU. I've looked into using the original controller ports, but I'm not comfortable disabling the integrity checks on my machine.

Yes, they are both momentary tactile buttons; they momentarily short the power pins. In series they would almost work as a security feature (you would have to click both at once).

There are unsigned drivers for the original controllers. I have my LEDs set up the same as you, but I put the power and eject buttons in parallel.

My IKEA setup: I used a VIVO adapter VESA mount quick release bracket and a 3/4" thick plank to mount a ViewSonic VA2252SM 22" 1080p monitor mirrored to my 50" plasma (off to the right). The desk is a Vittsjö, so is the TV unit. I could probably do some cable management My system: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1024823-the-fastest-xbox-of-all-time/?do=findComment&comment=12224124

Zotac GTX 1050ti low-profile, but the CPU and the PSU can handle a better low-profile GPU down the line. I'm not using a riser.

Something is wrong, maybe test the LEDs and the switches to make sure they aren't sharing a ground on the PCB or something. It's weird that the lights are still on though. Does the PC run ok if you start it with a screwdriver without the front panel connected?

I have my LEDs going to the same pins, and the switches to the power. I remember there being something funny about the PCB, but it was easy to follow the traces.

It's hard to get at, sorry.

http://athenapower.com/product/power-supply/flex-atx/ap-mfatx50p8

I bought this one on new egg I think. 500W; I swapped out the 40mm fan for a 12V noctua. http://athenapower.com/product/power-supply/flex-atx/ap-mfatx50p8

I followed the traces on the back of that PCB, and pulled out the yellow wires that I did not need. I clipped off the connector, and put female jumper ends on the remaining ones. Green LEDs were in parallel, and both switched were in parallel. I'm really happy with the look.

Rear: Front: The case isn't screwed together right now, and I would like to shorten the power supply cables. I'm planning to hook up the original controller ports properly also. It's a pretty well ventilated case with both sides as large intakes, and the rear as an exhaust. Oh, and a boot logo:

Our machine's are very similar in the way that they are layed out. I wired up both the power and eject buttons in parallel, but on top I left the jewel green. I have a 120GB NVME SSD for my system drive, and a 1TB SATA SSD for Steam. Also, a Ryzen 5 2600 paired with 16GB of 3000MHz DDR4.

Damn, I only have one header for USB 2.0 on my B450; the search continues.

My DVI port is structural (as are the BIC pens).

2070 is definitely unnecessary, but good job Mine has a low profile 1050ti that breathes through one side of the XBox (no riser), a Ryzen 5 2600, and a flex ATX PSU where the original PSU used to be; mine isn't for gaming at 4K. I also aligned the DVD faceplate better, kept the original front panel LEDs, and the eject button will also start the machine. I haven't installed the original ports yet. @AlexTheGreatish Not sure I'm aloud to ping. Did the video show the back when it was finished? Also, was there an internal USB hub used in the build(I was waiting to see what you used)?