Car712

Yeah, here’s a few, some may be a little outdated, but should get the job done, it’s not that hard to actually set it up (in my opinion) https://openvpn.net/get-started-guide/ https://www.linode.com/docs/networking/vpn/install-openvpn-access-server-on-linux/ https://upcloud.com/community/tutorials/openvpn-access-server/ https://www.vultr.com/docs/one-click-openvpn/

I don't know a lot about Pritunl but, most likely, yes. However this is really no benefit to this, since if you want to bypass VPN blocks, you want the VPN itself running through 443, so that nothing could detect it, the router would only see a secure 'website' connection. I would recommend flipping it around, VPN on 443, web panel on 80, but just my opinion. For my VPN I use OpenVPN Access Server, yes, its only free for 2 devices, but it works great, and it automatically switches between 443 (TCP) and the normal OpenVPN port (UDP) depending on if the normal port is blocked or not.

That's probably part of your problem right there ^

Some solutions for anyone looking: XMP: Literally, and this is not a joke, if your RAM is in slots 1 and 3, move it to slots 2 and 4, it will work fine at its rated speed there. (3000 worked like a charm for me after this fix) RGB: https://github.com/ixjf/MSIRGB (Yeah, MSI was just lazy...) Fan speed: Just manually set it!

Whoops! I was looking at the wrong screen xD, looks like it got booted back to 2133. Anyways after that, I tried other speeds, and realized 2800 is the most I can do.... What in the world! How come I was able to do 3200 on other boards, but only 2800 now!?? And good god, how do I fix this jet engine fan when I have it over 2750 or whatever it says..? aand I just found out I cant even do rainbow RGB like on any other board, what an absolute joke (YET their website shows the board doing just this!)..

Welp, all I can say is, OOF.. (This cant actually be correct, right? Thats like ddr2 speeds...)

Hi, so I recently upgraded to a MSI x470 Gaming Plus board, and I’m having a slight issue, when I attempt to set my “DRAM Frequency” to 3000 (the rated speed of my RAM, Corsair Vengeance LPX 16gb 2x8), the the board just reboots a bunch of times until it eventually gets a POST screen again, looking at the BIOS, It does show 3000 under “Adjusted DRAM frequency”, does this mean the memory is set correctly or not? On every single other board I had, it ran perfectly fine at 3000, and could even overclock to 3200, why does it reboot a ton of times on this new board? They are in the correct slots for dual channel, 1 and 3. Also, why does the fan speed seem to be connected to the RAM speed?

Interesting, I kept hearing very good things about that board when I was googling as well

Ah, probably should have mentioned that I have a 2600X, I dont really plan on doing anything manual in regards to CPU overclocking, other than the automatic "X" overclock, and as for brands, I would be open to any as long as they have controllable RGB! (except for Gigabyte, their piece of shit B450 Aorus M board is the entire reason im buying a new one)

Ok so, as the title says, I recently ordered a Asus ROG Strix B450-F Board, before it arrived today I was doing a little googling and found this board: https://www.newegg.com/asus-prime-x470-pro/p/N82E16813119100?item=N82E16813119100&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-pc-_-pla-_-motherboards+-+amd-_-N82E16813119100&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkLSlw82G5wIVDtvACh3iBA3rEAYYAiABEgJHpvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds which was only a few dollars extra, my question is, is there any real reason I should return my B450 and buy the X470 in terms of performance or reliability? Please let me know! By the way.. when I received the B450-F, the motherboard box itself was not sealed by tape or anything, but the board is still sealed in a wrap, its not refurbished, right?

Hey, so I recently got a 1660 SUPER, and I've been noticing a few small things that worry me, one of them being that in RDR2, even though the settings I have give me 60+ FPS at the start, after half an hour-1 hour of playing the FPS in those same areas (and the entire game) will drop a good bit (to the point where it is noticeable and annoying), is this normal? I am just asking this because I've never experienced this with other games or on other GPUs, I realize heat is most likely the factor, but I've never seen it happen like this (although I have also never played RDR2 on any other GPU). I tried lowering the settings even further after it starts lagging, but that doesn't seem to change it surprisingly. I'll attach a screenshot of the heaven benchmark I just ran on it. I think it may also be worthwhile to note that while running the heaven benchmark, that there was a few points (maybe lasted a second or so), where it 'froze', overall it seems to run good, but just another small thing.. I'm wondering if there is a potential problem with the GPU or if it's just my cooling?

I hold grudges against a few tech companies, most notable HP, Cooler Master, and Gigabyte. HP - Awful laptop, only lasted for a year, CS doesn't understand English correctly (although the CEO email support was amazing, gotta gives props to them, very nice person I dealt with), eventually got a full refund from HP after they managed to break my laptop MORE each time I sent it in (4 times!!) Gigabyte - B450 Aorus M, BIOS updates break/remove features, automatic fan control is AWFUL. Cooler Master - The awful Masterbox lite 5 RGB with basically NO airflow and with fans that sounded like a dying whale on the lowest setting (same deal with their ML120L RGB AIO fan), I originally thought that buying another "better quality" Cooler Master fan to replace the stock AIO one would solve the issue, BIG MISTAKE, same whale noises, had to return it, I eventually got a EK fan, which was amazing and quiet! The front fans (still stock) are still awful though, definitely need a new case... Think I'm exaggerating? I'm not: https://www.reddit.com/r/coolermaster/comments/a2815u/masterbox_5_lite_shiiiit_airflow/

Hey, so right now im having quite an issue with the boot order on my PC, I have 2 bootable Windows 10 installations, one on my NVME Drive which I actually use, and another on a small USB 3.1 Drive that is a "bait" Windows Install in the case that my PC gets stolen. I set the boot drive order to having the USB be in slot 1, and all the others disabled (to get into my NVME I would have to press F12 at startup, which a thief would theoretically have no idea about). Anyways, the USB boots fine with that boot order, as long as I dont boot into the NVME ever again, but once I rebooted my PC, went into the NVME, and then rebooted again, it went to the NVME straight away, and the boot order was completely changed, with the NVME being at slot 1, and the USB at slot 2!! This is very maddening to me as I have had nothing but trouble with this Gigabyte motherboard's awful software and BIOS since I got it... I really hope someone knows a solution for this to make the boot order permanent and to stop it from being changed. Please let me know! Motherboard: B450 AORUS M (Yes, it has an administrator BIOS password set)

I mean, you could just keep it and spend a little more to get another (cheap) Motherboard, CPU, RAM, etc, etc and make a Hackintosh build with it! Although, you do need quite a bit of patience..

After the installer finishes and reboots, just remove the USB.

Having those partitions is perfectly normal, what I usually do when reinstalling is just to delete them all, and then select the "Unallocated Space" to install Windows on. Be very careful to only delete the partitions of the SSD however! (if you have other drives attached)

If your seeing "Preparing Automatic Repair", then its still booting to a Windows install somewhere, the ISO USB does not do that (as far as I know and have experienced)..

It was a MSI GAMING X 8GB card, if that makes any difference.

Believe me, the difference is definitely there (for me at least), especially when you have a case that doesn't have great airflow, like mine, the Masterbox 5 Lite RGB. I mean, i'm just sharing my personal experience and opinion here (as well as the fact that generally AMD cards have been known to run hotter), it may very well vary for many other people depending on the factors everyone has said.

Ok so I've recently upgraded from a RX 480 to a GTX 1660 Super and I have noticed that the 1660 runs FAR FAR cooler and quieter than the RX 480, better card as well, anyways, I'm wondering how this is possible? Why does it seem so hard for any AMD card to be cool or quiet, especially under any load? I mean, the difference is insane, my CPU dropped many degrees under load with the new GPU, as well as the overall case, it doesn't feel like an oven anymore, let alone warm, after a long gaming session! Heck, I don't even hear the fan under load either! Has anyone else experienced this HUGE difference switching from AMD to Nvidia cards?

I would most likely suspect it is the SSD, you may want to try another SSD for a day or so and see if the same issue happens or not, I don't see how it could be any of your other parts failing (especially if you can still move your mouse around and still get a video signal), but that's just my opinion.

Hey, so I recently reinstalled Windows on my PC because I got a new GPU (GTX 1660 Super), anyways, I have been noticing that the restart times have been, lets say, a little too long for the SSD that I have (The shutdown/power on times are as expected, under a second). I did a CrystalDiskMark on both my drives (HDD and SSD), and im wondering if anyone here can tell me if either is failing? I should also note that I do have Bitlocker enabled for my SSD, however I was having the same slowness before I encrypted it. The SSD is C (obviously) My SSD: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 250GB NVMe (Yes, I installed the driver) My HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM

Very interesting, I was just going off what I had experienced, I’m by no way any expert on boards lol.

I mean, as for a 3700X, I have no idea, but when I first started out building my PC I used a super cheap board at the time, the ASRock A320M-HDV (around $40-50 at the time), it worked great with my 2200G at the time, and it also worked perfectly fine with the 2600X and RX 480 8GB (used) that I upgraded to later. Amazing board. I'm now using a Gigabyte B450 AORUS M, I can honestly say that the ASRock board was far better (EDIT: except for the fact that the Gigabyte board has better specs) after using the Gigabyte board for about half a year now, with the same 2600X, and realizing that the BIOS updates constantly break things (which is why I’m “stuck” on an older firmware at the moment), I have had many other nonstop minor issues with this board as well, Gigabyte is just awful. The ASRock board is still going strong by the way, I've been using it in another PC that I cobbled together with parts that I upgraded from and didn't sell.

Le video: (yeah my title for this post didn't necessarily even hint at what video I was watching, sorry lol)