ChrisZH

1 hour ago, PDifolco said:

You can remove the whole cooling system out of the case (GPU included) and bleed/refill, did that when I went watercooling my (previous) GPU

Or run the PC top down lol

Ya I thought of just reorienting the case on the table and see if that helps haha

29 minutes ago, TatamiMatt said:

Ideally the bubble should be eliminated when running as water seems to be freely flowing if the resevoir level drops, but again youre getting into running it open without fittings, if its not too much effort the fitting idea seems good and seems to be slowly becoming the best idea 

Ya I think that might be the only viable option for the setup I have in there. Well after work I guess I'm gonna try that out!

11 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

Cause rad is on top...

Can you disassemble the rad from the case, put it on the desk/floor/whatever, and run the system for say 10min ?

Bubbles will then gather on the top point so the res, that you can then refill

Can do that not even running the CPU, disconnect the board 24pin ATX and use a jump start plug

 

The problem is that the runs are tight to the point where I can't really move them around. So I don't really have any other option besides moving the entire case around.

1 minute ago, TatamiMatt said:

Pretty good idea imo

 

Youre radiator looks top mounted? You could try take that off and put it below the resevoir so the highest point becomes the resevoir and you might see some results that way before getting into attaching extra fittings?

I thought about moving the case so the fitting on the res are at the highest point but that also depends on where the bubble is trapped at

3 minutes ago, TatamiMatt said:

hmmm so theres air trapped somewhere, you might need to mess with pump speed so you can force enough water through to get rid of the air blockage then turn it down quickly so the air bubble doesnt get sucked back down into the pump below the resevoir

 

Can also, and a bit more scarily, unplug the resevoir and run then top up with water as level drops, should also help force air out, then replug and turn off and see if water level dips again

 

From the sounds of it theres a dead spot where the water is doing something like this (bad drawing incoming)

Ya I think there is a dead spot in the res. What I've been doing is tilting the computer on different sides to try to get that bubble out but because the fill port and the intake to the res are so close together (poorly designed res imo) it was hard without water spilling. Thankfully I have nothing plugged in when I do this haha. But I was thinking of attaching a 90 degree fitting and then a tube so I can have that above the res and use that to slowly fill and even use it to try to let air out of the system with the pump going. What you think of this idea?

2 minutes ago, TatamiMatt said:

Possibly run the pump slowly so air bubbles dont get sucked back down into the pump, wait for resevoir to fill with all the air thats in the system then top up, rinse repeat

I thought of doing that too. I know when the machine turns on the res is only like half full. But when I turn it off the water rises to the top.

Just now, filpo said:

is it not turning on? or is it a 'show off' post. regardless it looks quite cool!

I bet it'll be even better with the lights on!

Sorry I forgot to add the text! Haha but yes it functions great! Just having trouble with air bubbles

i am having some trouble trying to bleed this build though. As this res did not have a downspout and I was forced to make the connection from the radiator to the top of it I am assuming this is why I am having trouble bleeding it. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to effectively bleed it and stop the bubbles. I am thinking of putting a 90 degree fitting on the other port on top and attaching a tube so I can fill it up more but also so that air can escape without the possibility of water splashing outside of the build as well. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!

1 hour ago, Andrewtst said:

From rtings, this 34" model should be flicker free but it is flickering when enable G-Sync in dark area.

If this is the case, I think they is no way to avoid it except not using G-Sync or wait Samsung release firmware to solve this issue.

 

- Samsung Odyssey G5 C34G55T Review - RTINGS.com - under Variable Refresh Rate (VRR) section.

I've tried looking on Samsung website so firmware but I can never find the firmware file. Maybe I need to contact Samsung support and see if there is a more recent firmware

I just got a new Samsung Odyssey G5, 34 inch ultra wide monitor. I have noticed that when I enable gsync(it says in listing it's compatible but in CP it says it's not) but it works. I play star citizen and I get these weird screen flickers (like brightness is changing) at the sides of my monitor. I have tried to DDU and revert back to an older driver but it still persists. If I disable GSync and leave Freesync enabled the flickering goes away. Does anyone have an idea what could cause this and/or how to fix it?

1 minute ago, freeagent said:

You would think.

 

There is such a thing as too much. Not all TIMs are created equal.

This is what I thought but then unfortunately there is just so much conflicting points of views out there. So it's hard to figure out which way is the best way.

23 minutes ago, freeagent said:

If its too thick it acts as an insulator. 

 

That video is why so many people have shitty temps lol.

If it acts like an insulator when it's too thick then how do you really know when it's a good amount on the chip? When I put mine on I got a nice thin layer but at the same time I was worried that it wasn't enough but I didn't want to just add more because I figured it might inhibit heat transfer

3 minutes ago, TeraSeraph said:

Unless they're using dried up paste or not mounting their cooler properly it should just squeeze out the extra. 

I guess this was a problem for me because I don't want excess to get on the board because the cleanup I feel is a nightmare

2 minutes ago, ToboRobot said:

Yeah.

Hmm, is there a way to see if mounting pressure is off without taking the block off? Like should I look at specific core temps and see if there is an outlier?

1 minute ago, ToboRobot said:

You want to use as little as possible.  

Difference between pastes is very hard to measure, as variables like mounting pressure etc can impact it.  Personally I don't bother repasting unless it's failing/causing a problem, but it's not worth it to try to get a few extra degrees unless you are doing serious overclocking.

Well one thing I am worried about that I remember is one of my washers broke so I replaced it but the thickness was different. I was thinking of getting new washers for every screw for the block so the pressure is the same across the board? This might cause an issue right? 
 

with using PBO2 I never see above 81 c in stress tests anymore and my average is about 68-70 now. So it's not anywhere close to throttling anymore but I just want the most out as possible I guess?

So for the thermal paste you really just want as thin of a layer as possible? Is it because the mounting should push the paste to fill in the micro holes of the block and IHS?

Hello all, just got another question I want to float around to people. So when I installed my waterblock I did ensure that my thermal paste covered the entire chip with a thin layer. Is that all you need, just a very thin layer or should I have a little excess?

I am also using the stock thermal paste that came with the block (about 2 years old). The paste still had a very good consistency to it and was not chunky at all but I am also left to wonder if they have a shelf life.

I have also ordered some thermal grizzly hydronaut paste because I want to repaste my 5800x3d with some quality paste but also think it might be a good idea to repaste my 2080ti because it is also using the stock paste. Is it possible that there will be a difference between the stock thermal paste that came with my Bykski blocks and thermal grizzly paste? If so do you think there could be a measurable difference between the two?

1 hour ago, Mick Naughty said:

Should always expect it to evaporate. But more so just more air slowly getting out of the loop. 

Was it a good idea to use the purge valve kind of fitting or to just close it off entirely?

I was worried about the pressure getting to be too much when it warms up, ya know?

Hello so I just filled up my loop and I know there were bubbles that will gradually drain out and cause water levels to decrease. I do also have a vent valve over my fill hole in my distro block. Could this also be some form of an evaporative issue?

I did. leak test it and kept it running for 3 hours to see if I had any form of leak and there was no water on paper towels I left around the fittings.

is evaporation something to be expected because technically it is not closed off completely but instead has a vent valve to get rid of air pressure(I think?)

3 hours ago, freeagent said:

Mostly for the if/mc, so yes in a sense.. for 1900 1:1 I use 1.15v SOC.

So if I'm games I still get up to the max boost frequency I should be fine right?

30 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Those are relics from a bygone era. Not needed.

I mean, you could install the 1usmus Ryzen power plan if you'd like. But the Windows scheduler was fixed.

Learn something new every day lol

1 hour ago, freeagent said:

Mostly for the if/mc, so yes in a sense.. for 1900 1:1 I use 1.15v SOC.

Man went from 75-80c in scum to 60-64

8 minutes ago, freeagent said:

Oh shit no. You should never need that much, unless you are pushing fclk/mclk.

Is the SOC voltage for the cpu or ram? The only thing I changed in bios is set up DOCP for ram (3600mhz cl 16) and fan curve for my fan and pump.

2 minutes ago, freeagent said:

It might. I have never needed to manually control the voltage on mine. My sample runs super cool. I could run it at over 100w PPT with no fans on my cooler and still retain full performance, while maintaining 80c.

 

I beat my CPUs.. they run distributed computing most of the time when I am not using the PC. Linpack Xtreme, 10GB load is a good way to test your cooling. Or y-cruncher. Cinebench is pretty tame

Oh is the SOC voltage something different than what I'm thinking of? I saw my SOC voltage was like 1.278 I think?

3 minutes ago, freeagent said:

No need to mess with PPT TDC and EDC, you will just limit performance that way, as well as temps too I guess, but it is counter productive, and you can only go down, not up. On my X3D I only change FCLK/MCLK my timings, SOC and VDDGs, and my curve. -30 all core 

God I swear there is so much conflicting information haha. I've seen so many videos and posts about how changing these will decrease temps but not performance and then the SOC voltage I know. Haven't done it yet but I'm thinking just a modest 0.05v will help right?

5 minutes ago, freeagent said:

Its fine, you are good 

Is it only possible to set the curve optimizer on startup and not the 3 other settings? All the things I'm reading are just about the curve and not the PPT, EDC and TDC